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Just acquired HLS30-960 restoration already in progress. The car has been sitting for about 10 years after paint and body and is really nice shape. All the original parts are with the car. Original 904 white was applied, and due to many extra interior parts that came with the project, it was either blue or black interior. My plan it to put the blue interior in it. Dash has two small cracks that will have to be dealt with.

CASE CLOSED - car RUNS!!!! new 280zx dizzy fixes the problem... took out electronic ignition unit and ballast... thanks for the help.. can i now start a new thread on how to tune it up and get it to run normal???

Well, decided to change the rear hub bearings since I've got it tore down this far. Had a 6 foot piece of 1.5" x 3" tubing that I drilled a couple 3/8" holes and notched for the 27mm socket. Probably overkill. I think a 2 x 6 piece of wood with four 3/8" hanger bolts and a hole for the socket would have worked too. First, got the Dremel and removed the lip at each flat, and chiseled the lip away from the threads. This should hold it down. Ready to break them loose. Lug nuts on the studs to protect the threads. Then used the press to remove the bearings. Nut easily spins onto the hub shaft threads, I was a bit worried about that. I'll be using the newer 43262-W1200 nuts. Bearings are Nachi, maybe original, not sure. I'll be ordering new Timkens, don't want to do this again for awhile!

Finally going to redo my exhaust to gain clearance - remove resonators , add performance cat , and all new pipe from to back to front Besides the awkward and painful positions to do exhausts without a 6ft lift , I kind of enjoy crafting an exhaust system . I just buy and bunch of mandrel bends and pie cut what I need . Dual 2” gets tight :-0 Starting the first leg getting to the cat . Might challenge myself to TIG it

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Might be because I have two insulators between the carbs and manifold.

I have donated over 3 gallons of blood over the past 40 years. I only did it for a couple cookies and some orange juice.

Someone said in Washington state there was an offer of a joint for getting vaccinated. Sign me up, dude.

Super fast shipping, they came in today :0 They included all the hardware too! I think this will work on 1973 models as well, I did not try to fit it into the car, but by eyeball it looks like it will go in smooth. @CanTechZ This might be the way to go for your car too, I should have ordered another one for my white car and used the free shipping 😕

I got a bunch of stuff done in the past couple of weeks, when I bought the headliner it came in a small box and was badly creased, I stapled it to some 1"x2" and hung it on the wall, a year and a half later the creases have worked themselves out. So got the headliner hung by the bows, the exhaust system almost finished, the rest of the engine put together, door glass and quarter windows installed. Also the hood and trunk lid are done.

Talk about a time capsule...

I tried to donate in my 20's and as soon as they found out about my Heroin using girl friend at the time they told me to get lost. Fear of Hepatitis and HIV I guess.

When I studied in Leicester, it was known as “Babe-ingham” - we used to take the coach there on a Friday night to go clubbing for exactly the reasons you described! ;) Glad you had a good time there! You’ve been super lucky with the weather too!

This will answer the question about if it's an electrical problem. There's just one small wire to the solenoid and it only does one single thing. Starters do bind up sometimes. The drive gear gets stuck in the ring gear.

I can't think of a direct reason for the starter solenoid to activate when the engine stumbles but If you are trying to keep it running by pumping the throttle or pushing in the clutch or something similar, you may be hitting a bare wire under the dash, by the pedals, due to the PO's hack wiring job. Something, somewhere must be completing the solenoid circuit.

Automatic transmission? (ever?) The reason I ask is that the start "signal" generally goes straight from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid - in Datsun Z cars it's a Black/Yellow always. But in an auto car the B/Y goes through an inhibitor switch first. So if the car is/was auto and that wiring and/or switch is screwed up? The other thing that comes to mind is in some years the B/Y was also run to the ballast resistor as a by-pass to give full battery voltage to the coil at start. Do you have a B/Y at/near the ballast resistor (or where it would have been). Otherwise the start circuit is one of the most simple circuits in the car - just ignition switch to the starter solenoid... Easiest fix would be to just run a new solenoid wire from the ignition switch to the starter. That would eliminate all other possible sources of voltage to the solenoid.

From 1987 to ???? donating blood was my "wellness check". I did it a couple times a year just to make sure I didn't have some kind of horrible disease.

Wow, a pin for every gallon, very nice. They never gave me any pins. Just a couple cookies and some juice. At the donation that put me at a gallon (this was a very long time ago), I announced to the phlebotomist it was my first gallon with that pint. She scoffed at my pride and announced she was well over three, nearly to four. So being the competitive guy I am, it was game on. A couple pints into gallon four they had trouble finding a vein, and after a few tries at stabbing me, I passed out. They don’t like it much when you pass out, and much excitement ensued. I stopped donating for a year or so, and when I went back to start again they had trouble finding a vein, and when they were successful at getting it hooked up, it didn’t want to flow. Didn’t even get a full pint. So I quit going to donate. That was about ten years ago.

Yes, I believe tuning would be a completely separate topic

I like that I would be interested in that. I believe that is an individual that was just dreaming about that as an option

My Dad maxed out at 13 gallons I think. Had those little gold blood drops in a frame. We put it in his casket. He did it to get off work early and still get paid and cookies, juice.

I have one of those, never used it. There isn’t enough room between the carbs and strut tower. Someone gave me one of these: It is easy to use and allows enough room to be quick and accurate.

Step 1: Buy one of these. https://www.amazon.com/Latest-Rage-5385730856-Carburetor-Airflow/dp/B00CMC57R0/ref=asc_df_B00CMC57R0/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309898128610&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16754559533879517408&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9012727&hvtargid=pla-568420224882&psc=1

Could you mail mine? Red Cross should follow these type incentives for blood donations. We've gotten to a "what's in it for me" society now and donations are suffering from that. Everybody already gets a couple of beers after a donation to get that quick buzz, just have a cooler full at the EXIT door.

Something different. You need to listen to the whole album, several times.

Oh, and before anybody asks "Why did you pick 9 grams of extra weight?" The answer is "because that's what I found in my scraps box."

I messed around a little today with additional weight on the float. I wired a chunk of scrap steel to the bottom of one of my new aftermarket floats. The float weighs about 9-10 grams and I added about 9 grams of extra weight. For the test, I just wired it into place so it wouldn't fall off. Looked like this: I put that contraption on the 72 short ear lid. Float tab looked like this: Since this is the rear lid, it's still one mm low, but there's plenty of compliance in the tab bending to bring it up a mm: Here's the float tilt. Very close to neutral: And then I took the same float, with the same tab and put it into the front long ear lid. The result was this: With a darn near perfect tilt as well: So it's nice that the theory and geometry agree with reality. But still the big outstanding question is.... Why do I need to go through these lengths of adding weight to get the floats to behave properly??? Special extra-dense low volatility North-East summer blend gasoline?

Mission accomplished. Lubed the inner cable as I fed it back into the transmission end of the housing. Drove it around the block, no speedo needle bouncing. Thanks for the suggestions.

Brilliant!!!!!!!!!!!

Wow, really nice work. Love the pic of the intake and exhaust runners. Pretty sure that exhaust pipe is gonna leak though 😁

They figured out how to get Alabamians to vaccinate. No spectators again this fall if the data doesn't improve. Phones are ringing off the hook at my pharmacy and other locations to get in. Priorities people, Alabama's #1.

Getting close to pulling the engine, so I picked up a two ton shop crane and engine leveler that was on sale. The leveler has "L" brackets on the end of the chains so I started to see what was required to attach these to the engine. @Racer Xposted pictures of the OEM lifting brackets so that was my starting point. Here is what the OEM's look like: After reviewing this I thought it made sense, on the front mount, to attach the leveler "L" bracket at the OEM location, and to use both of the two M8 holes that the OEM bracket used. So I took some measurements and made a sketch to fab a small angle to pickup the second bolt. Right after I finished the sketch I had a light bulb moment, thinking "Hey, I have an old spare engine in my shed". It's from a December 1970 parts car I picked and stripped over 30 years ago. To my amazement, it still had an original early single bolt front lifting bracket. It had no rear bracket, but it won't be to difficult to use one of the "L" brackets back there. Here is that sketch I made for those who might be interested, with the OEM bracket after I cleaned it up a bit.

Yeah, Covid is making things tough all round. We are finally starting to loosen the restrictions. I'm so happy they lifted the curfew and started opening things up again. Maastricht is a beutiful city, plenty things to see and do. That sounds like a good plan. Two weeks notice should be enough to work something out. Have a safe trip and maybe we can catch up next time you are here.

So, I leave for Basel on Monday afternoon after a stop in Liege. I already did a 2 day layover in Maastricht. The city is quite amazing. Super clean, people were very friendly. Went for a nice run along the river, the views were incredible. Probably won’t work now because we land in Liege at 12:11 AM (17 June) and then get driven to Brussels where I’m staying at the Airport Crown Plaza until my flight my back to the US at 11:00am The good news is I’ll be doing this exact trip again several times until December, I’m senior enough to win the bid regularly. We normally don’t fly our Memphis based pilots here to do these trips we have a base in Colon, Germany and we have pilots we move there for 4 yrs at a time to fly the Europe cargo. With Covid, Germany has stopped allowing the company to move pilots there, and German law requires the ones living there now to move back to the US before they hit the 4 yr mark. So we have slashed our pilots by 50% in Europe this year. Right now if you land in German from the UK you must quarantine for like 10 days. The UK requires a Covid test every time you remain here more that 36 hrs. I have to self-test and send the results to the Health Services...pain in the butt and I’m fully vaccinated?? The bottom line is Covid has disrupted our operations in Europe and so the company is getting around it by bringing pilots out here for a week or two at a time. I will give you a two week notice before I do this again. It would be great to meet you! Won’t be working too much in July and Aug due to vacation and my recurrent training. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nottingham is a pretty cool town. Lots of pubs and good places to eat. We went out tonight and the town is crawling with young women...the guy I’m flying with said there is a 1-5 male to female ratio in this city. This is the place to be if your a single guy and dangerous if your married and have a weakness for women. Went to the “oldest inn and pub in England” Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi Bart, Here is a link to tech aticles with a how to identify a F5W71B tranny. The 71B you scored looks like a wide ratio. Yours has no reverse lockout. If you check the other side of the extension housing you will see a second exhaust hanger ear and the speedo locating tab is above the speedo cable. If it was out of a 280ZX, then it was the 2+2 version.

Milo's is good stuff but I don't drink much tea, too sweet for me. I'd rather have a V-8. I haven't been out of Gadsden in over a year now. Safer at home but a nice thick slice of Extra Special sure would be good! And a pitcher or two of beer.

This is where I stopped taking pictures and got to work. Most everything else was just putting all the parts back on. Still more problems to come but mostly just annoying old car stuff.

That valve cover is NO BUENO! I struggled getting it clean and eventually resorted to wire wheeling it to remove the old crud that was all over it. Luckily I have a few others and found a place near me that does vapor blasting. That should look a lot better.

Few weeks later and tons of work doing it right I finally got a proper paint job.

I really wish that I could donate often, as I have blood type A- and it's unusual. I would like to help others with this blood type. But one of the prostate meds I have taken for years is an absolute prohibition for women, so I can't donate since I started taking it.