gwri8

Now that I've slept on it, I believe @Captain Obvious has printed white type on a black surface on the fusible links labels? Maybe he has a solution (he usually does).

I think the transparent (or translucent) material you are printing on is allowing too much bleed from the black plastic case.. You might try printing a test on a solid black matte material. Once you get the right opacity of the ink on a solid color there should be no bleed through when applied, and if that works you could just use the black material and not worry about the clear stuff. Also, I don't know if it is the plastic cover itself or the glue backing on the printing material that is showing. I think a solid color would eliminate that. 2 cents.....

Ditto on the upper left.

Or maybe a lighter yellow? and for informational references, I put a 77' cover on Jai's 76' (she didn't have one to compare with). I don't recall any fitment problems, but I think the only difference was the exterior printed fuse locations maybe?

Just a thought, but while the heat shield is off, you might want to tidy up under there like cutting the corroded bolts and replacing them on the EGR tube heat shield and check the torque on the intake and exhaust manifolds. Putting the large heat shield back on is not easy either, but not as hard as removing it for some reason. However getting all of the bolts on underneath started will require squirrel size hands. Just a heads up.....

Oh, I've removed mine a few times and never had to remove the EGR pipe, although it is mighty tempting and that's probably why I don't pet strange dogs anymore. It's a puzzle for sure!

Since you still have the EGR ( I have mine also) you don't have to remove the tube. It does help to remove the PCV hose. If I remember correctly, the biggest heat shield comes out only one way, and I can never remember that one way each time I've removed mine 😒. You probably need to wiggle some more and it will magically come out. Just remember the way its came out because that is the only way it will go back in. I'm going to go out on a limb, but I think the folks who deleted the EGR altogether don't have this problem......

These came from Amazon with several to choose from, but I have also seen them on the rack at Auto Parts Stores. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QDYF382/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Battery Bling! Finally got around to installing new battery terminals that have sat around about 4 months. I like the way they look and will be great for the eye candy part of car shows but the functionality will require more effort. Instead of just a 1/2" (13mm) wrench, I'll have to add a full set of Hex keys and a 9/16" to the tool carry kit. The plastic covers look good too but there's Nooo Waay that I will ever let an Autozone guy replace the battery without me removing them first.

He picked a nice one!

I guess my hole is further up the evolutionary ladder as it has no threads 😉

I've been chasing electrical in my 77' for the last three month's . A floating/misreading fuel gauge was one of those problems. I know I checked and cleaned the connections and wiring from the gauge to the sender at least three or four times. Today, just by chance, I noticed that yellow/green mate lock connector to the fuel sender was slightly receded in the connector housing not making a full contact with the male pin when they were pushed together. I've repaired that and will double check it again tomorrow if I can get my car out. So, when you inspect the connections, look really close.🔎