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Clay C

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Clay C last won the day on May 12

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About Clay C

  • Rank
    Active Member

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  • Map Location
    Dahlonega GA
  • Occupation
    Self Employed

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    240z
  • About my Cars
    Just purchased 71 240z. Red in pretty good shape. Restoration will start soon enough.

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  1. I read that yesterday, ...well sort of until the part where he was using the upgrade T3 bar...then my head started hurting trying to make sense of it. I think I have the other prop shaft if it would be the same thing that came off a 280? I have a storage box full of 280 parts but I’ve never built a 280 either. This is all new but I’m figuring it out as I go along. The half shaft angle is important right? I have a good driveline guy in town so if those half shafts lines up and I can get the RT snubber over the housing instead of yoke part then I should be good I think. When I finally get to dropping engine and transmission in I’ll check my prop shaft. I can always have my driveline guy lengthen or shorten if needed. This is all because I can’t find an early model front diff insulator.
  2. A simple hole drilled and cutting maybe a 1/2 inch down the side of the bushing will get it back far enough but now I’ll have to install the brake cable and see what’s going on. I’m more worried about the position of the diff now than anything. I may still have the old mount but without it I’ll just have to wait till I drop the engine and transmission in to see what’s up with the prop shaft. Honestly Now I’m not even sure which direction the mustache bar goes...It’s one way in the book but I’ve seen other ways on the web. My bar is flat unlike the later bars.
  3. That’s very helpful and thanks a ton. I feel like I’m taking crazy pills sometimes with this car. I don’t know the differences in the year models but this isn’t the 1st problem with the early 71 I’ve ran into. I don’t have the parking brake cable in yet so that would have been something else that made me throw a wrench through a window.
  4. Maybe I scrap the RT mount. It’s not on the prop shaft yoke it’s dead center on the diff yoke/u joint...actually rubbing right on top of the metal dust cover that’s welded on to keep stuff out of seal area. The mount is in there correctly far as I can tell because the gap for fuel lines is on the right side of the car. I can modify the mount without a ton of trouble. I think I read somewhere in a previous post the half shafts should be completely perpendicular to the wheels. If I can get that lined up I’ll deal with prop shaft later. thanks.
  5. I have an early 71' and am running into the problem with the diff front mount/insulator where the only one I can source is from '72 onward which pushes my diff backwards. I've heard you can rotate the mount 180 and it will bring it forward. I have also installed the RT Diff bracket with the red Bush on top pressing down on the diff to avoid going back with the strap. Well since my diff has moved backwards (i think) because of the newer front insulator the RT mount is falling right on the yoke which is no good. I haven't tried to rotate the mount yet and reinstall.....The car is at my friend/mechanic/body guys shop but after taking it in and out about 4 times yesterday I gave up to do more research. I have both style's of mustache bars...I have both styles of rear transverse link mounts....I also have a very good functioning r200 sitting in my dining room. Z Store Website says I can use the newer mount with the 72 mustache bar and trans/link mount but I still don't see how that helps unless i flip the front insulator over which may be fine, it doesn't appear that it should matter other than it may make my drive shaft too long or maybe now its too short....Haven't got that far, no transmission in the car. Would you all go with the changing of the mustache bar and rear transverse mount? Or maybe the R200 would fit perfect? If anyone knows anything about this I could sure use some advice to avoid another 4 installs of the rear diff! I was trying to keep this car as close to original as possible but seeing as how I cut the front clip off a 260 and replaced mine that dream is out the window! I didn't realize they were noticeably different. This is my first rodeo. Maybe there is another solution all together?
  6. Anchor block searched....anchor block found. Thank you sir!
  7. Inside rear brake drums each side has one of these. Something for the parking brake cable?? When I dropped my car off at the body shop it was a “rolling” chassis...later I came and picked up all the suspension. I didn’t take loose the cable so I’m not sure if this works with the cable somehow. All I know is I can’t find them anywhere on any brake parts webpages. Of course a stud on each broke when I was disconnecting everything from the rear brakes. I can try and fix them, or if I knew what they were called I may could search them up. Thanks.
  8. Well I didn't know that would be a potential problem but I guess I will burn that bridge when I get there. Still got a bit of a wait time on getting the carbs back in, Last I heard possibly late June early July.
  9. Im trying to talk them in to putting it on the front of that 50's Ford in the background.
  10. Got the steering Rack cleaned up and painted. The plastic grease fitting was broken off and thanks to help on another thread it has been identified and replaced with a Zerk fitting. I decided to leave the steering shaft joints alone. They move fine but I did notice and its hard to see in the picture that the lower shaft has a slight bend towards where it connects to that rubber coupling. That's probably not ideal, I would think that would cause a slight bit of tension in the steering. I probably have another one I may swap out.
  11. Found a place in Auburn Georgia called "Resurrected Classics" that deals strictly with Z car stuff. Wish I would have found them earlier as they have a ton of "roller" cars out front. They also have lots of parts available. I picked up 2 metal Headlight buckets and the lower front valances for $180. They were very helpful and worth a look for anyone in my neck of the woods that are trying to source anything used.
  12. Plating turned out fairly well. I'm a newbie and you guys probably know already but the Heat Shield does NOT like to be plated. Its now "ebony". The ends of the dogbone linkage parts turned a chalky pale flesh color. They wire brush clean OK but was thinking about using some pearl fingernail polish to freshen them up unless anyone has another trick.
  13. Time to start the operation!
  14. Donor Car got blasted. Wasn't quite as good as I hoped but we can work with it. Front end was rather damage free which is better than what I had to work with.
  15. Done and done. I ordered some metric fittings. Put a standard one in place so I could paint it but it didn’t seem to want to thread in there very well.
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