ETI4K

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ETI4K last won the day on April 30

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About ETI4K

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    Fairfield, VA

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    240z
    280z
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  1. My motto has always been "If you're not bleeding at the end of the day, then you probably weren't working." This may explain the countless scars...
  2. I would use the Total Seal rings again just for the clean oil aspect, if that's all they were good for. Also, if the rings do in fact rotate, and if they don't rotate in sync with each other, one could argue the ring gaps may well line up at some point allowing combustion gases a clear shot to the crankcase. I would love to see real numbers on performance benefits of reducing blow-by, excluding the supposed benefits of not coating intake runners with oil, etc. Where these rings would really be of value might be in a diesel engine. I swear the oil in my truck turns black in a hundred miles (WAG, but you get my point). I can't believe all that carbon is good for the engine, yet they can run over a half-million miles without a lot of trouble.
  3. I owned a water buffalo for several years. Rode year round, in the rain, sun, cold, whatever. Loved every second of it. Thanks for the posting the pic. I hadn't thought about that bike in a long time! Sorry, if I am extending the off-post commentary. As I've said before, I get easily distracted. especially by fun stuff.
  4. CO: There were so many issues affecting my engine's performance back then (such as an undersized exhaust, all stock emissions controls, questionable injectors, etc.) that when I changed over from TS rings to standard design types, I couldn't really tell a major difference at the ball of my foot. That said, I was astonished when I did my first 3K mile oil change with conventional rings. With the TS rings, the oil was CLEAN! Conventional rings, not close. Anyway, THIS build gets TS rings again. BTW, I'm not embarrassed to admit I can fall for the placebo effect. "Oohh yeahh, those gapless rings are the *hit. I bet I got another 20HP!!". Tongue planted firmly in cheek...
  5. Another solution to the ring gap spacing issue would be to use Total Seal's Gapless Rings. I ran these (perhaps an earlier version) after my initial engine build in '94. I still staggered the gaps, though not necessary for compression leakage issues.
  6. I have changed my mind several times about how to proceed with my wiring changes. My goal, of course, is to improve reliability and performance, i.e. reducing IR losses. Further, I want to make troubleshooting faults quick and easy. So AK, I'm with you on number 4 - reduce current loads on the fuse box. I arbitrarily selected 10A as the threshold for switching the load over to a new discrete relay with its own new (different) fuse. In addition, I am replacing all oem relays with new Bosch style units. That's not much trouble, but I've also decided to fuse protect the control signal (to the coil). Just a bit silly, I know, but if ANYTHING quits working, getting it sorted should be a breeze. Also, as you know, I am colocating ALL relays and new fuses. At some point I suppose the question becomes why not completely eliminate the oem fuse block? That's just one point of my vacillation.
  7. Wow, that's great. Thank you for taking the time to post this. I finally finished the wiring diagram for planned changes. In the next few days I'll be bench testing some new control circuits, and if they work, I'll start modifying the harnesses. These pics will help.
  8. Alternatively, you can use a piece of cardboard to protect the face. Cut a slit in the cardboard and slide it up to the stem. It will fully cover the face. Then use a fork to gently pry upward on the needle, as @zclock suggests rocking it back and forth. The fork applies force to the needle that is not axial to the stem so it is possible to slightly bend the head of the needle, so be gentle. If the angle of the fork to the needle is too large, just use a spacer under the fork to direct the force more in line with the stem. EDIT Sorry, kept writing needle, meant hands.
  9. What would be the problem with missing one or two nuts/bolts, anyhow?
  10. Hmm, interesting. I know the friction modifiers work well for their intended purpose, especially when the machine was designed for their specific use. If used in a trans (I'm guessing that was not originally designed for it), would their be a chance that, for example, the synchro rings would become "too slippery" and you could get the grind back?
  11. Yeah, I'm with you completely. Valve train sounds (aot noise) have always bugged me, other not so much. A good stereo drowning out those annoyances isn't masking, it's enhancing the user experience.
  12. What was the most commonly reported need for the rebuild(s)? Were you ever able to do a before and after comparison?
  13. Thanks for the insight. What we need is a way to test a bearing that's better than the give it a quick flick and listen test, or spin it to feel for roughness. These techniques work fairly well after you've gotten some experience, but it's not a reliable method, especially since you can't vary the load. As you mentioned, there are several bearings operating, and any one or more could combine to sing under certain conditions. Of course, there's always the shotgun approach - change 'em all!
  14. DavidF: That's the part I'm having trouble with. If the pressure plate and release bearing are lightly loaded, the noise stops. I am assuming "slightly" doesn't begin to release the clutch. If I'm wrong, skip the rest 😁 So the clutch disc is still coupled to the flywheel and spinning at engine rpm. The release bearing is now spinning at or near engine rpm. The torque on the transmission input shaft, if any, hasn't changed and neither has its rpm. The crankshaft has some axial reaction force loading it toward the front of the motor. The clutch release lever is loaded to eliminate any free play. I think that's everything that's going on. What of these, or others missed, acts on the input shaft bearing to change its loading? Before I start assembling my car, I plan to rebuild the trans (same one as yours David F) and it'll get new bearings, but I'd really like to know if maybe something else is also contributing to the noise problem so I can fix it now.