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ETI4K last won the day on October 22

ETI4K had the most liked content!


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    Fairfield, VA

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  1. I never heard a different version. I was always amazed that someone came up with this one.
  2. I built a Heathkit radio when I was a kid. Loved working on it, but it never worked well. I had a lot of trouble sorting the resistors because they all seemed to have the same color bands. Bad Boys Rape Our Young Girls, But Violet Gives Willingly doesn't work well if you're color blind. 😁
  3. Try wetting that area (inside) and check it in a few days. I'd think the diminishing gap between the fender and its support would still be wet. And that is of course the problem. I recall reading a study from 20 years ago(?) that garaged cars suffered faster corrosion rates than those left out in the dark and cold. It seems the airflow around the cars tends to dry them out faster. To seal a pinch (spot) weld or a folded seam (even a Dutch hem) would require either immersion in a fluid with a low enough viscosity to permit capillary action so the liquid is drawn into the air space(s) and completely seal off the area from water/vapor - or a fluid such as cavity wax if it completely covers all ingress points and can be controlled so as to remain in place after application. That's easy in a rocker panel. @inline6 When you painted your fenders, how did you apply it to this space we're discussing? I am always in search of improved techniques. As an aside, I set up a test 3 years ago where I welded 2 pics of steel to form an L. The joints were very tight, but welded only on one side, so there was a very small interstitial space. I made 4 of them, then treated each differently with topical rust treatments (all from rattle cans). I did this at a friend's. I hung them outside on his fence to weather. After one year some showed a bit of rust. Then I moved away and forgot to check on them. My friend sent me an email recently to tell me his dad threw them away because he was tired of seeing them hanging there. JHC. Two years of testing gone, oh well. What's not lost is Project Farm (IIRC) on YouTube. The guy tests several topicals, and it may be of interest to you.
  4. Oh boy! Junkyard run tomorrow - the first in a long time. I have been wanting to change the rear hatch latch mechanism to one found on newer cars, a motorized draw-down type, so I will never have to slam it shut. This is especially important if the new hatch seal pushes back harder than it should. Of course, I might be compelled to find some linear actuators for the hood and hatch. I am a dreamer after all.
  5. I do love qualitative claims. One of my favorites is "water-resistant". Everything is water-resistant - for a while.😁
  6. Since that area would likely flex on a regular basis, would you be confident the POR-15 would flex with it and remain adhered to the surfaces? I've used similar products and they are extremely hard - which always raises a flag because with hardness, often comes brittleness. I've never evaluated any of them on that basis so I am curious what you think.
  7. I love the idea so I had snagged a pic with the intention of doing similarly on mine. Sorry I couldn't properly attribute it to you.
  8. Someone on this forum did an interesting modification to prevent water infiltration at the drain holes in the rocker panels. A similar approach might work for a drain hole in the fender.
  9. I'd be very careful in trying to seal such an area. If it is not 100% effective - to include preventing air in/exfiltration as it will carry water vapor which WILL condense inside that space at some point - then you'll be certain to seal IN water that makes its way inside. Perhaps cutting out that reinforcing panel altogether and applying modified design - one that is open and self-draining. Sorry I can't be more specific about such a design. I've given no thought to it as yet, but that same problem is headed right at me. I have two new factory fenders to go on my car, and I am determined to prevent them from rusting. I am also extremely reluctant to start cutting them up or modifying them in any way. Right now it's an opportunity waiting for me somewhere deep inside that tunnel, the light of which I am unable to see.
  10. If you'll send me the dimensions, I can draw it up in 2D and 3D.
  11. ETI4K

    R200 3.9

    Time Left: 11 hours and 15 minutes

    • WANTED
    • USED

    Hopefully, local to Virginia!


  12. View Advert R200 3.9 Hopefully, local to Virginia! Advertiser ETI4K Date 11/04/2021 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 1981 Model ZX  
  13. I did see that and gave it a lot of thought. In the end, I was just looking for an excuse to make something on the lathe (and mill). 😁 I am really trying to clean up the engine bay to remove, or make less obvious, all the hoses, wires, etc. running around. That's why I decided to mount mine under the intake. The filtered air hose will run to a port at the bottom of the MAF sensor boot from the air filter. The air valve body can rotate to any position to facilitate the routing of the hose to get it to follow the same route as the boot. Also, the hose, air valve body, and boot will all be black and less visible - especially against the blinding brilliance of the polished intake, head, timing cover...... Well, a fella can dream can't he?
  14. Next up, a new IAC valve and body. I will be using a stepper-type IAC valve from a GM motor to control idle speed. The problem is it also means I need an air body for the valve to mount to. I spent a long time trying to find something off-the-shelf and never found anything I liked very well, so I decided to make one. It's a bit complicated, but that's what I do best - make things more difficult than they have to be, but I have a blast doing it. The Concept It'll be located on the underside of the intake, to stay out of view. When I was shaving the intake, I bored a hole, made the bung and welded it in as I couldn't find one OTS with a wide enough flat to match the Seal diameter. I sent out the parts to be anodized. Found a place in Lynchburg that did a flawless job - Industrial Plating Corp. The guy who ran the shop (Brian) did the five parts plus two others that were zinc/clear for "lunch money" - $20. A deal AFAIC. The Realization The huge bung Assembled air body The pintle seat I have surface finish issues with these parts - they're okay but far from great. I recently acquired some decent carbide inserts to replace the Chineseum ones I used on this. What a difference. Oh well, another thing learned. The assembly seals well as best I can bench test it. Maybe this coming year I'll get to find out for real. 🤞
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