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ETI4K

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ETI4K last won the day on April 30

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About ETI4K

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    Fairfield, VA

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  1. Glad you have a solution. Just curious, what software was used?
  2. Can you post the drawing? Maybe one of us can help.
  3. I think the reason there's so much controversy about the particulars of oil (and SO many things) is because there's no obvious and clear BEST product for everyone's situation. If you used the forums' "best" and "worst" oil, I'd doubt you'd see any significant difference unless you were running that motor for 100,000 miles per year. At that point, you likely have to measure differences in wear with equipment better than .0005 indication. A friend gets so wrapped around the axles about this sort of controversy that becomes paralyzed and cannot take a decision. For the record, I pulled my 73 L24 at about 130K miles in mid 80s for a refurb. There were no real problems, just looking for optimum performance. Original honing scratches were still present, seals were still in decent shape (most were hard but still keeping oil on the correct side - for the most part. This was all based on technology that is now 40 years old. Maybe it's a bit like the guy who bought a new H&K and ran 15,000 rounds through it before he cleaned it. It continued to operate properly and well. Lubricant technology development in the intervening years has become quite sophisticated and yielded amazing improvements in friction and wear reduction. I'd probably bet that the lowest cost crap oil you can find at AutoZone would far surpass the performance of the best oils of the day 40 years ago, which suggests that decent oil today should keep them running well past our life exoectancy, but that's just me, and I've had a cocktail!
  4. In the past, I've used silicone-based caulk. I would smoodge it up into the underside of the moulding so when I pressed the moulding onto door edge, the caulk would seal the scratched paint. It worked well while I had the cars, though I was always skeptical as to its long-term efficacy. Alternatively, you could use an adhesive only to hold the moulding in place. That also has its drawbacks - as do all "solutions ".
  5. You can use nylon, rubber, fiber flat washers on the studs, available in different thicknesses from McMaster.
  6. Another thing to consider, and I write this without do any research, is perhaps the cleaning effect is nonlinear. If your internals are heavily laden, perhaps several cleanings would show promise. If you controlled the feed rate of any cleaning chemical to very slow so the chambers never get slugged with liquid, you wouldn't have to worry about oil dilution, or bending a rod, etc. An interesting experiment would be to start with clean oil in the pan, do a cleaning run and then compare before and after. If the solvent/effluent don't obviously affect the oil, you might be able to do several cleanings. FWIW, I have a BG fuel system service tool (#9210) (and OTC adapters) that easily controls solvent flow, and allows you apply air pressure behind the solvent for forced feeding (of injectors) or anything else. Could be a lot of hooey, but you never know. You anywhere near VA ?
  7. Never underestimate the greatest thing since sliced bread - the placebo effect. All that smoke MUST be beneficial. It works for me. ?
  8. During vapor blasting, does the glass surface become damaged eventually as in dry blasting (the glass gets sandblasted unless you use a plastic film which is sacrificial)?
  9. Since the fuel rail has to be rigidly mounted anyway, wouldn't it captivate the injectors so they wouldn't need clamping at the manifold ports?
  10. It's great isn't it? We use jack stands because our jacks can't be trusted. Now, with what do we back up our jack stands? Use two sets under each LCA, or maybe three will do it.
  11. That is a terrible tragedy, especially since he was home. Though it may seem trite, I sincerely offer my gratitude for your service, as well as your friend's. Supporting our troops means more to me than placing a sticker on my bumper.
  12. Git 'er done! Sorry, couldn't resist the urge. ?
  13. That's a lot of very good information, and of course, it changes the search path. You wrote the problems lives in 500-2000rpm range. Perhaps the AFM windings are damaged in that range since that may well be where the wiper has spent most of its time. If there is any way you could plumb in a fuel pressure gauge to read dynamic fuel pressure it would be very helpful. That might help separate fuel system from ignition system diagnosis. As for ignition, connect a timing light to any plug wire, put the light in the cabin, and go for a drive. If it acts up, turn on the light and point it at anything. If the light flashes without interruption, it would suggest the problem is not ignition. It's a bit of Dr. Frankenstein's monster I know, but perhaps worth the effort. I've solved more than a few problems this way.
  14. If you don't mind measuring, what is the length of those studs, and the protrusion from the head?
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