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heyitsrama last won the day on May 3 2019

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About heyitsrama

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  1. I usually get in that spot too, just staring at the car not knowing where to go. I even bought a whole other chassis and started working on that because it did not need AS much repair. (Probably was a good idea learned a lot) 60% of the time I just grab a tool and start doing something, and it gets the creativity flowing. How’s the hatch striker panel? the one above the tail lights.
  2. I really liked the ability of the finger (band) file in tight hard to reach sections, I have mixed variety of power tools, I pick up the HF 4.5" grinder more than the Makita one that I have, and I've yet to break a tool. One thing has changed with HF tools is their brushes are no longer replaceable, that i think will move me out to another brand. I've replaced the brushes several times in both the disk cutter and the metal chop saw. Dewalt is nice, I started using Milwaukee m18 and m12 tools, id like to keep the battery system the same (Milwaukee tools can adapt dewalt batteries to their body w/ and adapter) $120 seems like a lot for a band file ( id think that money would be nicely spent on another grinder so you dont have to change the wheels) Perhaps a garage sale might be a good spot to find a discounted one. Because your working with the car in the garage and have clearance under the car, i think you could get away with out having one. Its nice that someone makes the seat rail mounts, I had make the front one, it was pretty complex. Is the plan to remove the spotwelds? Lisle 51900 Spot Weld Chisel is a nice beater, better than dads old craftsman flat. 😅
  3. I really like this one, I used it a lot when I was working on my hatch striker panel. https://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/grinders-sanders/portable-belt-sanders/53-amp-12-in-heavy-duty-bandfile-belt-sander-62863.html Make sure to grab some good belts, I’m not sure about the quality difference between brands, some people say it makes a difference. If you have some spare coupons of scrap metal, try adjusting the wire speed to be faster, you might be able to get the weld to be flatter. (too fast and it’s going to blow through) Check this guy out: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=1AiDqIHP5Po
  4. I was trying to install a MSA replica BRE front lip (vented) and noticed that there is gap between the end of the spoiler and the bottom of the front radiator support. I think this might be how the replica molds are made, and I'm not sure. Based on this video it appears that an front spoiler from BRE will just about touch the lower radiator support. My early 260z was missing the lower valance from the car, I had acquired one for a 240z from a member on HybridZ and modified the mounting points to fit my 260z. I think its highly likely that I messed up the fitment of the valance on the car, is there supposed to be a gap between the valance and the lower radiator support to begin with? I just want to know if the issue is with my valance fitment, or a molding issue with the MSA BRE lips. If you have a BRE lip and can share a picture that would be great! 🙂
  5. I would get some Kroil like Yarb recommended then try what captain obvious recommended. Personally Ive had more luck welding a nut onto the stud and using a impact to taking them out. The heat helps it break out. I also have this metric stud removal tool that I've used ..... but sometimes i just look for excuses to get the welder out.
  6. It was a pretty interesting talk, esp the later half. Check it out!
  7. If you need an additional computer to route the traffic for step 3 consider a raspberry pi, it runs a free operating system. And is around $35-$55. Also it has very low energy consumption. https://pi-hole.net https://www.raspberrypi.org/products/raspberry-pi-4-model-b/
  8. I would recommend 1. Becoming a donating czcc member ( if you can afford it) 2. installing unlock origin extension on any browsers you use. https://github.com/gorhill/uBlock Consider step 1 or turn off ublock on czcc. Mikes operating costs are said to increase with this beefy server he’s upgrading to. 3. if you are technically inclined you can block advertising at the DNS (what resolves URLs into IP addresses) level by using pihole or adguard home. Here is the configuration I use at my place. https://github.com/amarjandu/neptunes-orbit in the couple weeks that I’ve used it it’s blocked ~30% of network traffic out. you don’t have to go all the way to step 3, I used ublock origin for almost a decade, and it works wonders. I think if you are on an android phone you can get it installed on that as well, I use an iphone, so I don’t get that option. if you need some help getting the DNS level blocking installed, or want more information reach out. 🙂
  9. Slow progress over here @siteunseen half the battle was keeping water out of the car! HA. I have to make the wiper sub-harness as my car was missing everything in the engine bay..... but the way the relays are wired up in the diagrams throws me in for a loop. It will get a respray.... eventually 🙂
  10. I ended up grabbing a sunshade from MSA this weekend. It fits really well in the window. part number is UV10110SV made by cover craft. excuse the dust it’s all from the wildfires.
  11. I run the 2fuse+voltage/amp setup in my Early 260Z, I've had no complaints about it so far. If I was in your place I would try to get new fusible links (and maybe some spares). How does the alternator output wire look? I think the last time I blew a fuse, I also melted/broke off the ring connector on the white/red cable.. Need to fix that on my car still its been almost 2 years.
  12. You might be able to get away with getting braided hose from Jbugs. I’ve used their hoses for the valve cover vent hose. Unless you are going for the TRUE OEM look.
  13. I had this issue on my rebuild, although i confirmed oil was getting it the head, and the oil pump was primed. After that I just ran it, and the oil gauge showed pressure. I’m not sure is there is an official way to do it. 😕
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