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About heyitsrama

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My Z Cars

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  1. heyitsrama

    Ignition circuit wires all smoking

    Okay you see all those terminal ends that are connecting with spade connectors. You should replace all the exposed ones with shielded ones. When these connectors have oxidization on them they are gonna have increased resistance and increased heat through the wire. You’re goal on anything electrical you touch is to clean it, and prevent it from getting oxidized. There is a common modification that people do to ensure that the starter is getting enough power to the stator which is to wire a relay into the system, so that there is direct power present. I’ve used ZX coils on old mini coopers for testing purposes, it was running fine, I believe Lucas coils are designed to run with no ballast resistor, it might say on the coil itself. There is no need for reverse polarity on the coil, typically for British reverse polarity cars they can be changed to standard ground on chassis. There’s a 9pin connection mod that you can do that would help reduce the load to the combo switch, I would need to find more information about this. If you need protected space connectors / round connectors, vintageconnections.com has some high quality stuff. That and super 33 tape + heat shrink should be helpful too. :) I think you might want to try that relay mod, research a bit, http://www.biopatent.com/solenoid.html If you do the relay mod, try to secure it somewhere. Chances are if your ignition system is changed to a points style, there’s a transistorized ignition board inside the passenger kick spaces which has been bypassed, I used this space for relays in my 260z, I made a bracket to add more relays, ended up with headlights, fuel pump, eletrical fans, all having relays down there. 260z are interesting cars, unfortunately they were also guinea pigs. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  2. heyitsrama

    Stalling issue(under throttle)

    I believe you will need to get a front mounted airflow measurement tool, measuring from where you are is after the balance tube. But I could be wrong, I would want someone else to double triple confirm. Was there a filter in the engine compartment? There are two additional filters at the float chamber of the SU carb, for me it was throwing off my float measurements, and causing my stalling issues, after cleaning them out, I was able to get a good tune. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  3. heyitsrama

    Stalling issue(under throttle)

    Replace that fuel filter, and at the barb of where the hose from The fuel rail goes into the float bowl, there’s a filter located inside the barb, I would take those out and make sure they are clean as well if the issue persists after that filter change. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  4. Uhhhhh so, those evap lines look like they are being pinched, if that’s the case the vapor won’t be able to escape. An electrical fan is starting to make more sense, at least you can throw a temperature timer on it... Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  5. Here’s a heat shield I saw the other day, I liked the layer approach. I just noticed the use of that reflective layer under, I wonder how much that helps reflect radiant heat.
  6. Im going to be doing an install as soon as the damn eBay person ships the vintage air unit. Your best bet for the mounts is just to make them out of a thin bar of steel. At least that's what it seems that everyone else is doing.
  7. Does the car have a fuel return line? I thought allowing the gas to flow removes the opportunity for it to get heat soaked. It seems that people also run those insulated asbestos lines over the fuel rail. That should also help prevent it from soaking heat.
  8. heyitsrama

    AC Installation cost

    My estimation is that a vintage air unit, will run around $1-1.1k in parts, I just ordered a gen 2 mini Evap/blower unit for $400 off eBay, gonna put it all together myself. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  9. heyitsrama

    amco parts

    https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F232817705251 Is this it?
  10. heyitsrama

    260Z 2+2 - 1974

    You can also tell by valance style, early 260s have a valance that’s similar to a 240, with identical turn signals, but the center portion has a slightly different mounting point. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  11. heyitsrama

    Wanted: headlight hi/low switch

    Yeah it looks super toast, the car sat for 15 years with no steering cover, I sent it out to Dave and he shipped me back a toggle switch to get me through the part search, but I really need to locate a replacement, it’s much safer for mountain roads to have hands up at the wheels. I’ve been thinking about trying to make some 3d printed replacements for this switch, I assume people have issues with theses.
  12. heyitsrama

    Wanted: headlight hi/low switch

    Sorry for the delay! I did not get a notification for a reply, it would be this switch.
  13. heyitsrama

    Purchase Questions for Canadians

    I ended up with a champion 2 row, I built a shroud for it, and have two electrical fans, with both of them on the temperature sits right around 185*. I use distilled water and some GE green coolant. When I go through the electrical system again, I’m going to wire in my temp-ground switch to only have 1 fan on constant, 2nd if it gets over 190* Oh I used some grommets to separate the body from the rad, I was reading that these alloy rads don’t like to flex. No issues so far. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  14. heyitsrama

    Brake light (switch?) question

    Hey if you needed one of those little knubs, I’ve made one out of a ball of super glue, it worked great ha. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  15. heyitsrama

    Wanted: headlight hi/low switch

    Hey, looking for the little switch that sits behind the turn signal for the high low beams. I need it for a early 260z, but it should be compatible with a 280/240. Regards, Rama

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