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heyitsrama last won the day on May 3 2019

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About heyitsrama

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  1. shhhhhh dont let all the secrets out, it wont be fun reading old threads then.
  2. @leonv What would you do in this circumstance? Do your eibach springs bind under load? I'm not sure that a 3/4in (280z isolator) or (0.7in zcar/thezstore spacer) would be enough to get the ride height in the rear to where i would want it. I think i would want at least an inch of height back. All that considered, it seems like getting the correct 240z spring setup might be the best thing to do as, i would be able to get more comfort for a car that is really being built primarily for street use, with occasional track use.. Sorry for bothering you about this, but it seems that your one of the only documented sources for this information online 🙂
  3. It seems that the rear strut insulator for a 260-280z is NLA everything online is used, maybe this is why the spacer exists....
  4. @LeonV it seems that changing out the rear strut isolator to a 280z is more cost effective than replacing all the springs, I’m reading in other threads that it should account for 3/4” of increase in height. would keeping these 280z springs mean I would retain a more “sportier” feel in the suspension?
  5. @LeonV have you made any changes to your setup? I have a 12/73 260z and I put what I believe are 280 tokico springs on the car. the car is too damn low! I can’t even get my low profile jack under it! I used to be able to just slide under without a jack! I’m not sure how to approach this. I saw that there are metal spacers that are available... https://zcardepot.com/products/upper-strut-mount-spacer-240z-260z-280z#&gid=1&pid=3 which should take up 0.7” of the 1” perch difference, unless there is a 1” option somewhere...
  6. I've been using both their clutch master and brake master for the past couple of years. I've had good experiences w/ Beck-Arnley parts after being suggested to use them from other forum members.
  7. Still need one? This one has a braided hose.
  8. I repacked it just now, it’s much more quiet. Thanks for the advise, the strap technique made it straight forward @zKars, @grannyknot yeah I had to ask for a hand, make it a whole lot easier. now just gotta figure out why the blinkers don’t turn off after making a turn ha.
  9. I have an early 260z and wanted to know about this upper steering bearing. I hear this annoying squeak coming from the bearing right now, but i cant seem to find any replacement options (NLA) 48910-23100 #5 on http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/steering/steering-column it seems super dirty, if i cant replace it, is it possible to remove the inner housing and clean+ repack it? it looks like some of the balls are missing as the distance between the balls are not consistent. I found this thread by @Captain Obvious but the images are no longer available.
  10. @bingo can you take a picture of the slot that you cut? did you ever get that issue with the pull addressed? I had that on my system it was due to an air bubble on the passenger side, i rebleed the system and it was good. I'm still on the fence about upgrading the calipers. I dont feel that the brakes are the limiting factor on my setup, id rather push till i start noticing the fade, then look at upgrades... With that being said, Ido think I could get more performance by changing out the rubber lines (not sure of their age) and upgrading the pad probably hawk. I contacted Raymond at ApexBrakes (was suggested in another thread) but I'm not sure if the price is justified compared to rubber setup, any opinions @Jeff G 78? Edit** I ordered SS lines, need to find pads.
  11. definitely not the way to do it, but i've used a large spark plug to plug up a heater hose...
  12. my 73 has the plainer silver disc. 🙂
  13. Have you considered putting this car on bringatrailer?
  14. If you want some braided hoses, jbugs in Southern California has a bunch all in nice metric sizes too, i think they give you a discount on the first order through them if you sign up for news letter.