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heyitsrama

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heyitsrama last won the day on March 2

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About heyitsrama

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    240z
    260z

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  1. In the US phone/data plans can be a bit expensive. I ordered a few of these https://www.apple.com/airtag/ I’m going to tape one somewhere in the car. It gets updated when other people with iPhones are nearby. Battery lasts a year, and don’t have to pay for any service fees. @AK260 don’t you have a 123ignition? Those have ignition kill security built into it. my problem with some of these devices is that I don’t trust the people that are operating the backend networks, how do I know that they are not misusing my information, it looks like a service from in China, what
  2. You might be onto something about the summer blend. I’ll give it the old sniff test to make sure…. I’m sure you can find some stuff out there, worlds a big place. I started taking walks after work, 10 hours on a computer is too much. @Tweeds https://www.darkreading.com/operations/colonial-pipeline-cyberattack-what-security-pros-need-to-know/d/d-id/1340970 US infrastructure needs security hardening. But then again people are always doing dumb $^!# like sticking random USBs into their computer that they found at the work parking lot.
  3. Big ooof. $4.30 in California. everyone get electric cars and save the gas for the enthusiasts. 🙂 hopefully the donut shops are still getting customers.
  4. PLA might hold up if you just need to use it a couple times, and there's not a ton of torque applied to the fastener. Can maybe increase the in-fill density to 70% and give it a try. Can you post up some photos of the oilpan when you get it off? Interested in some photos of how it was made.
  5. Oh also, I used a copper based hard line, ordered like 25ft of it so I can make other subsections. I would not use stainless It’s a complete pain to try to bend it let alone flare it. You’ll have to invest in more tooling if you want to mess with stainless lines.
  6. @mailnome I can vouch for that tool, it’s so much faster to use, and it’s perfect every time.
  7. @JTO i think you are on the money about creating a little bit of space between the diff and the snubber. I noticed less noise in the cabin. Details are in this thread.
  8. I shaved mine down to have a small gap. the total length of the snub bushing was ~29mm, if you were doing it yourself you might be able to leave the length longer, say ~31mm. I noticed less noise from the rear end at highway speeds, 65-75mph. I did not notice any clunking sounds yet, but if i need to reduce the gap, i think fitting a rubber bushing between the poly mount and the metal would be the way to go. I tried cutting it down to ~36mm length and 32mm length and it was still a squish fit. It was easy to remove the bushing from the front of the diff, just had to loosen the f
  9. ugh i used the inner hatch seal on this mine, its an interesting fit. I used 3m weather stripping glue inside the channel, then used metal laundry clamps to hold it to the body. I worked in sections, top, sides, then bottom. Get the big tube of the glue form the store and lather it up. ESPECIALLY near the hatch hinges. Then send me the glue that you did not use, I need to add more in that area its lifting up. Fax works for me.
  10. I feel like the 8.8 is a great package to go with if you got into the game late (like me) and can’t find a r180/r200. Honestly it’s slim pickings out now days (at least it feels that way). From that thread people are doing 900HP builds?, holy moly. That’s FAST. It’s seems hard to find a r180/200 that is an LSD, has the ratio that would work, does not need a rebuild, and is relatively affordable. i can’t think of a safe way to lift the car and have the drive train engaged in order to film or visually see what’s going on under the car. Maybe you can shove and old camera or a g
  11. @AK260 Do you remember the total length removed? From the other thread it was recommended to be 3/4” that’s ~19mm for you blokes abroad.
  12. @madkaw do your doors still have that rubber that’s supposed to be on the the cam that latches to the body? it might be unrelated to the issue you have at hand, but I wonder if that is also preventing it from closing with enough force to compress the material down. just for a note if you have to change the seal, I used: 1120A333 Water- & Weather-Rst Rubber Push-on Seal with Bulb on Side, Hollow, for 3/16" Edge, 5/8" High, 25 ft. Length from MCMaster-Karr.
  13. @AK260 oh interesting I should have came back and updated this thread. I need to find the source of the vibration at highway speeds, no more thumping. And thrashing it’s just loud. Maybe I should trim the bushing on my RTmount more. I literally just wrote a comment in the Old RT mount thread. taking about this, you’re saying there is a 1mm space between the top mount and the diff?
  14. Madkaw do you have to slam the door at all to get it shut?
  15. Sorry to resurrect such an old thread, but it might be better than fragmenting another discussion about the RT style mount used as a strap replacement (aka snubber) mode. im trying to think if running the mount in this configuration is contributing to noise from the rear end entering the cabin at highway speeds. I did remove 3/4” of the rubber mount when I installed it, but I still recall having to use a jack to squish everything together when fitting the front diff mount. I was thinking maybe this is contributing to the problem. i really like the RT style mount, there is no knocking
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