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Thanks again guys. So here's that plug where my PO drilled through into the water jacket. Cut off and now flush: I'll drill and tap for the valve cover bolt later. Now that I've got good metal to work with, that shouldn't be difficult.

Hi , dutchzcarguy reminds me this thread . I would like to explain the story behind the rear deck glass which Mr. Tamura struggled to make its style better . ( Sorry If I did it already before ) Mr . Tamura was thinking seriously about the curve of the glass which was nature when the glass was baked . The design team made clay model but usually they didn’t care about the curve of the glass . In the clay model , the glass area was put films and the area was cone , if you look from side , it looked flat . Mr. Tamura knew the glass is not flat but he could not be able to have actual glass , nor test it when he was designing the rear deck . He was afraid the design line of the roof and the rear end of the deck were not meet the curved glass . So he used his imagination fully, think again and again , he assumed curve rate which glasses normally have . He finally lifted up the end of the roof 10mm , also lifted up 5 mm at the rear deck panel where the bottom of the glass meets . He was happy his decision after seeing the car . A lot bolder , sharper , this rear and side view tensioned the styling a lot more beautiful. Mr.Tamura also said “ Mr. Matsuo was asking me what are you doing ? You need to be quick “ But after seeing his work , Mr.Matsuo said nothing about it . ” I felt Mr.Matsuo liked the re-finish of my work which made the roof line and side view much better than before , compared to the clay model which was used for the presentation for the executives “ Please see the drawings which was made by Mr. Tamura . Kats

A great deal of "what's wrong with America" and the world, in general, is Narcissism. That giant Ego that doesn't want to believe it's not better, smarter, etc. than others. We see it in individuals and groups. Narcissism, Sociopathy, and Psychopathy all share the common symptom of no empathy or compassion. The people who have personality disorders are calling the shots. There's a higher percentage of Narcissists in Big Business, Government, Military, etc. than anywhere else except mental health treatment centers. They thrive on control of all others.

Guys, Thanks for all the help. Looks like I'm going to give it a crack and clean/ freshen up my SU carbs. Thanks again!

I can probably help you with the 123 ignition. I believe that I was one of the first to actually install and use this in a Z and did a pretty extensive write up after I completed the install. You can find my thread here: All in all I am very happy with the system although there are a few quirks you should know about before you start. A quick summary for you: 1. On install the instructions will tell you to get the engine to TDC, install the 123 and apply power, and then turn it in the direction of rotation until a little green LED lights up. In theory that should put the 123 also at TDC with 0 degrees advance. Well that was not the case with mine. After I completed the install I programmed the 123 with a 0 degree advance curve and checked my timing at idle. It should have been at TDC but in fact I was about 12 degrees advanced. So I ended up loosening the dizzy like you would the oem one, and just turned it until I was at TDC at idle. 2. If you are running an MSD with the 123, you will likely experience random rotor failure over time. It turns out that the 123 rotor has an internal resistor embedded between the top contact and the end contact and it was not designed for use with an MSD type of ignition and will eventually burn out the resistor making the rotor useless. You can either carry spares (which is what I did until recently when I discovered the root cause of this issue)or you can Dremel out an old rotor and replace the resistor with a 12 GA wire. Interesting that 123 actually sells these modified rotors on their website so clearly then know about this weakness. Those are the 2 main issues that I recall. Other than that it is a breeze to program (I have the USB version) and performs well. Feel free to PM me if you have other questions or just respond to this thread. Hope that helps. Mike.

Funny how things are turning around though. There once was a time that people searched far and wide to find the cheapest deal. Now people seem to be searching far and wide to find the best quality. There are good products that come out of China. Just reach into your pocket and look at your mobile phone. Manufacturers can no longer build disposable crap. I have a feeling the new generations will shift things back. Don't blame government, blame the consumer.

If you don't care much about originality (like me) and/or are cheap (also like me!), bicycle tire tubes are a good source for thin rubber. That's what I used.

Pulled all the toys out for a bath

Hi Guy, thanks for the compliments. Will you be out in Branson? The car is not perfect, but it's pretty doggone nice, the colors are awesome. I wish we had another week or two to finish up some small details and do some final tuning, but for the most part she's about 99% complete. We chose in several cases to go with the original parts versus buying new or aftermarket replacements. The windshield would be a good example. It is the original 46 year old glass, complete with small rock chips and wiper scratches. In cases like these, the original part trumps a perfect aftermarket windshield for the build. The small defects are not super obvious in the pics, but I am sure the judges will ding us for such things. That is fine and understandable, it's just very cool to see the original part on the car where it's reasonable. Anyway, I am thrilled that the car will be at the show. I am looking forward to seeing all those awesome Z's!.

Hello all, I am going to document my build. Basically I have a garage kept series 1 240z. That hasn't driven since 1986, it needed brakes which she couldn't afford so it has sat since. It was resprayed in the 80s as well. Some bad overspray but overall it's a very rust free car. I actually found it in my neighbors garage. My goal is to drive it and enjoy it, but it needs some TLC. First and foremost I got it running, and that is when I made the decision to keep it and I have fallen in love. I will keep it mostly original, minus some brakes upgrades, wheels and BC coilovers. Maybe someday have a built motor for it, but not for now. Everything I take off will be either professionally painted, re - zinc coated or powder coated when it goes back on. I am going to try and stay away from painting it. Everything I do will be reversible and I am keeping all parts I pull off/ upgrade. First thing I did was get it cleaned. Which took a long long time. I started this on Hybriz but I don't think it's the correct build for their site. So I am going to move it over here. I am new to Z's but have been building cars since high school. This is my 2nd major build.

Here's the link: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-93/

If he hasn't put a wrench on at least one to try and remove it, it's all conjecture. There are many grades of SS. Just don't know enough to say either way. Has anyone broken a stud when it's free and clear like these? They break when they're under tension, clamping, but I've never broken one when it was exposed like that. Good luck CO. I can't imagine that you'll leave those monstrosities in there after the work you put in to that valve cover bolt hole. Doing one but not the other doesn't fit inside the same brain. The manifold clamping is much more important than clamping a valve cover down. Hence my zip ties joke. It's been 8 hours, they're probably all out by now...

Stainless steel into aluminium - galvanic reaction city. The heat generated while undoing them accelerates the reaction and is what makes them resist even harder. S/S is brittle (unlike tensile steel) and you could regret this one. My vote would be leave it alone. You are making such superb progress, don’t suffer scope creep and other unforeseen issues now. iMHO of course!

I think you are doing the right thing...removing head and starting over. I install head gasket, manifold gasket, and valve cover dry. I install the oil pan dry except for a thin layer of black rtv along the join line where the block and front cover meet on both sides.

I think I’d probably leave them alone. If it ain’t broke don’t fix it. Again function over form. If they bother you or you any reservations about the integrity the pull them but you could potentially set yourself back with some broken studs. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Please press the admin for details on a tribute 50th 240z or if it will just be a 370z with stickers.... and please give warm regards to Mischievous Mike and Mr. Matsuo from Janet and I.

I'll try to take a look. The whole engine was built by Ritalon Engineering. No exact idea on compression. It runs a 2mm headgasket but, the had has been shaved.

Mike pretty much said it! Oh and don’t trust the no.1 HT lead mark on the dizzy cap - I blew up my silencer and scared the neighbours as a result ;) ALWAYS check timing with a timing light at idle and all in. Leave nothing to chance when it comes to timing. And here is another write up I did a while back, hope it helps: https://zclub.net/community/index.php?threads/123-ignition-for-datsun-l6-on-my-l28.25467/

We'll be in today.

Sleeve/collar, not bearing. The sleeves are different. Sometimes called collars. Look at Post #9 here - https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/58235-trans-id-help/ Don't pay any attention to the years and models of the cars described, it's the pressure plate and sleeve that matter.

@Firepower Is one way. He'll get an email hopefully. Good luck.

Like #6 today is for Kats ?

As an (ex) electronics repair man.. i also look for the better stuff... ( I HATE CHEAP JUNK!!) In 2012 i designed and build my own new kitchen.. I told the german kitchen man (german quality still good..) i need a new kitchen without the appliances .. huh?? he sayd.. Yeah.. i'll give you the dimensions from the apl. and we design together a nice kitchen.. he agreed.. I bought almost all my appliances. second hand out of showrooms from the german brand name Gaggenau! It's wonderfull, prime quality.. My coffeemachine was a used one.. in the showroom.. It had made over 10000 cups of coffee, i overhauld it after 10642 cups and now i'm going to make my 18558th cup of coffee!! cheers! I bought the coffeemachine with a steamoven for 1600 euro.. not cheap about 2 years old maybe 3.. sitting in a showroom the oven was as new.. both appliances together are over 5000 euro.. so i think it was a good deal.. (again.. after repairing a lot of appliances.. I HATE JUNK!!!!!!!! )

Nice picture! I ran to my glass store.. and yep! It has 20 lines also..

Check out the thread, "We're bringing back the flat tops". Lots of info there that may change your mind about them.

Yeah, one can rock and or twist the bowls. Ztherapy.com is a good source for parts, an excellent DVD and rebuilds, should the need arise. The lower nozzle hoses come with the rebuild kit. Don't try to substitute another type of hose. These hoses are super floppy to prevent the nozzles from binding. I'd start by pulling the bowl cover, the floats, and the needle and seat. Clean the crud out of everything and reassemble. Oops, two things. It might be a good idea to check the float height (per the shop manual or DVD) and when you remove the bowl covers, wrap the gasket in aluminum foil and press it flat in a book. They will dry out in just a few minutes and curl up into a Pringle if left exposed to the air. Anyone, It's been a while since I looked at the float bowl vent hoses but as I recall they plumbed into the air filter base. Hope that's right. If it's not, it would still be a good place for them. I'd get the rebuild kits and the DVD or at the least a shop manual. There's nothing complex about the refresh. Cleanliness is the key. I haven't checked but there's probably lots of videos on YouTube. The carbs are easy to remove. The base nuts are a bit fiddly and one has to take extra care when reinstalling (adjusting) the choke cables.

I used the pvc type floor edge molding cut to size. Worked great.

Here you go. https://zcardepot.com/products/fuel-tank-rubber-strap-isolators-240z-260z-280z Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Or go to WalMart or UK equivalent and get a Farberware Soft Grips Black Stainless Steel Flavor Injector Set for less than $8 https://www.walmart.com/ip/Farberware-Soft-Grips-Black-Stainless-Steel-Flavor-Injector-Set/17813046

Hi Jim, I looked at early VINS and the very early one in the Engine FSM. They all have the nylon support. I think that rail may have been customized or perhaps from a JDM model.

How about chomping !

And Facebook scoops up everything and tucks it all away.

Hi , in Japan this shop is selling some of S30 body parts , they are made in Taiwan ? https://www.restore-parts.com/category/item/fairladyz/ I have heard the skin thickness is 1 mm , and the quality is not meet for the serious buyers . But the shop is trying to make it better , they are now having a contact with some well known restoration shop in Japan to learn what they need to do . 236000 JPY ( 2000 USD ) for a set of doors . I guess why they set the price like that is , normally we see the NOS doors on Yahoo auction or privately selling are asking it’s price like that , or little higher than that of price . The rear vertical defroster glass also will be the same price range , but I just don’t know what is the right price because we don’t see the NOS or mint vertical defroster glass in Japan for more than 15 years. Maybe the last NOS one in Japan is the one which I have got for 50000 JPY (450 USD ) in 2003 . However I have got another one from the well known restoration shop in the US this year ,I think the price was right for the current market would seem to ask for the die hard enthusiast . Kats

They look like the standard 73 hitachi flat top to me, but I'm no expert on them. Check the link for info.

Wife and I arrived in Branson late last night. We are planning on doing some sightseeing and catching some shows before ZCON ramps up. @jayhawk will be visiting family in Kansas before bringing his car down Tuesday AM. Looking forward to a great show and meeting up with old friends. Also, if anyone coming to Branson has a spare one of those plastic things that secures coil wires to radiator , I could use one (for the car that is). Thanks, Rich

Much like Tut's treasure, it will be buried with you.

I don't think the HKS Zero-R counts as a rare *Nissan* product, as it was produced by HKS based on a standard production model R32 GT-R. I'm thinking closer to home, and within the S30-series Z range. Top of the rarity pile for me - and qualifying as a truly special model in terms of spec and details - is the PS30-SB 'Fairlady Z432-R'. Quite, quite different from the PS30 'Fairlady Z432', and only a handful sold to the general public for road use. Certainly less than 20 examples.

One particular personality attempting to dominate the room there again I see. "...IMO since only 38 were built .. they are the single rarest Product sold by Nissan..." Clueless.

We will be loading the car tomorrow AM and heading for Branson. Here are some final pics of the car. Yes, and a few photos of @jayhawk and @motorman7 in the background. Looking forward to an awesome event. Thanks to everyone for the help, input and support.

Pulled all (except roof liner) trim and carpets and sound proofed Z. Probably added 10-15kgs. With windows up it feels 3 times quieter. Quite amazing how noisy these panels were when knocked - spare wheel horizontal section, wheel houses, shock towers, trans tunnel, floor pans and body panels. I tried to only apply as much as required rather than covering the whole thing. Firewall was OK but got a couple of sheets for good measure especially next to trans tunnel next to where exhaust would reverberate. Floors already done by PO but quite thin MLV so I added more and covered with 3mm sticky backed closed cell foam on top, then carpets. Feels positively Audi like ;). You realise how loud it was inside before - when you wound windows down there was little difference before! Now it’s like someone whacked the volume knob up! Also bass from radio is now way deeper and audible over exhaust note! Very happy! Rear deck area will get 20mm closed cell foam under carpets for good measure soon!

Bayarea Don't get the idea to weld the roof joint up solid. The car needs to flex some and the designers selected this area to flex. If you make it too ridgid you could crack the A pillars or some other area on the car!

Today, the Los Angeles Times newspaper ran a fun little story that the longtime Z owners among us may relate to. Here's the link: https://tinyurl.com/y2t4pxja Dennis

Got the air cleaner back from Powder coating. Installed loosely just to see how everything looks. Meant to comment on the wires above. I thought that I would need to make a new radio and antenna harness after pulling these two cables off of the dash harness. I lucked out however, as these were the cables that were the original radio leads. Somewhere out there is an original radio with the cables cut off. The new OEM radio just plugged right in making things easy.

Got all but spindles done and back from powder. I also had to get a new radiator, but I had my series 1 fan shroud welded onto it. Hopefully getting all hardware back from zinc today.

I read that Mr Tamura passed away last month. R.I.P. Kumeo Tamura 1944.2.28 - 2015.4.16 Thank you for your excellent work on the S30.

Hi, Ian,you already know that website! What a good timing,Mr.Tamura told us about a lamp cover and a lamp case. He said the case should not have a sharp edge at the top corner,and the cover should not have a big steel trim ring. When Mr.Tamura joined S30 team,he was a modeler worked for Mr.Matsuo(chief designer) and Mr.Yoshida. At that time Mr.Matsuo was very busy as a chief,he could not spend much time with S30 (type AC) cray model.Mostly Mr.Yoshida and Mr.Tamura were doing styling for the cray.Mr.Tamura told me "I remember when we were doing lamp case,I discussed with Mr.Yoshida about the edge of the case.We agreed round shape, increasing "R" of the edge from front grill side to lamp cover" "Also we agreed about cover,it should be sticked on the case without big trim ring,we did not want to spoil of smoothness of finishing touch of the fender.So the case was glooved proper width and depth for the clear cover " "Some book shows pictures of design study of type AC, it had trim rings.But it was not a ring,it was aluminum tape.We wanted to hide sticked area of the clear cover to be looked neat" "But we were not for sure how production engineers would take the way of fitting of the cover nor how they settled down of pressing metal for front fender and the lamp case" "However we both assumed the case would be a plastic,not like actual production one, we thought only inside of the case(in front of the lamp,curved portion)" Mr.Yoshida was forced to move to other section, then Mr.Tamura became as a designer of S30 and he did really hard for its completion.He was alone,as I told here before, every day and night,he spent with the cray.I think Mr.Tamura is the real artist with incredible skill.He can answer every little details of surface of S30. But Mr.Tamura too,he was forced to move to other section when he had just finished final design of S30,so Mr.Tamura could not be involved next step,cray to production (I do not know how I can say it in english,sorry for this) That is why Mr.Tamura is saying, "S30 which we are having is not what I intended to design, when the cray was brought to production engineers,some parts were changed from original cray" Mr.Tamura sent me a letter with some "revised" drawings which have a cover without trim ring.He said a clear cover was a must item for its design ,if it does not have it,it does not complete its design.Of cource without trim ring!" "I drew the red S30 with a trim ring, but at that time I felt something uneasy. I forgot something over 40years ,now I found what I was doing!" kats

Mr.Yoshida kindly let me bring his file home,I show some of them. His sketch,pistures,news paper(saying going on sale 20th DEC 1969) e.t.c. Last picture,this 240Z must be the one on the display stand at Tokyo motor show.Note the tire is not Bridgestone,they are DUNLOP GRAND SPEED CS1 /6.45-14. At that time there was Bridgestone superspeed radial 20-175SR14 already applied to 240Z by seeing other pictures,so this fact could be a good reason of the car could be an EURO car. kats

To begin with,I have to pass these words all of you from Mr.Yoshida,he is very very modest gentleman.He talked very tenderly but very clearly. "S30 design was totally created and developped by Japanese people,people in the Nissan,members in the sports car studio,we never had have been taught by Mr.Goertz about S30 styling,we never had have been inspired by the A550-X for styling S30. Mr.Goertz had left Nissan before the S30 project,we had no-relation with him at all " "It is too much abrupt for saying A550-X resemble to S30,they are completely different car, S30 had taken cared of 100 times more than A550-X had.I never felt A550-X was a great looking car,I thought the car was in just on the half way of its completion. Each time Mr.Goertz visited Nissan was limited time schedule,I knew Mr.Goertz could not take care of the car like we do.The results was his best at that time." "I did CSP311 interior,that was totaly my work. And, I did A550-X interior only me. A550-X was always in Yamaha,so I went to Yamaha manytimes to do work. I was only one in the S30 design team who saw the car undergoing in Yamaha factory." "A550-X project was a seacret like other car, so that no one out side of Yamaha would know the car. I do not remember clearly,but #1 and #2 prototype were made of metal,#3 was made of Plastic. I do not know one of them arrived at Nissan or not,anyway S30 designers never seen A550-X in the Nissan factory.(Mr.Tamura also said he never saw A550-X during his work" "I think A550-X was oriented from Mr.Goertz" kats