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jonathanrussell

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About jonathanrussell


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  • Joined: 01/27/2005


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jonathanrussell last won the day on July 27 2020

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About jonathanrussell

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    Atlanta, GA
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  • Zcars Owned
    240z
  • About my Cars
    - 72 240z 4spd with less than 50k. Silver with black interior.
    - 72 240z 4spd with 24k. Orange with black interior.
    - 75 280z with 65k. 304 Gold with black interior.
    - 78 280z with 60k. Original pearl black with sap and black interior.

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  1. I think we have to agree to disagree. The thicker textured paint finish....when you remove it....reveals itself as nothing but black tar undercoating with body paint on top. It is not a thicker textured color mixed finish. And, the black tar undercoat is applied directly to bare metal. Apologies to the OP for me getting us sidetracked.
  2. I have read the forum messages on the undercoating topic and opinions / observations seem to vary. Some are consistent with what you wrote but others are consistent with what I have observed. Here is an entry posted by Mr Camouflage in 2006 that matches what I have observed. "The underbody of the Z was coated from the factory with a black tar type stuff, straight on the bare metal, no undercoat underneath it, This thick tar rippled look coating (If you dont call it undercoating, i dont know what you would call it) was then oversprayed with the color paint. not painted as such. I doubt you would find paint over the top of the tar coating in places like the transmission tunnel above the gearbox. My car is a 72, and has this undercoating. It washes off back to bare metal with a rag a bit of petrol."
  3. @bluez....Not true in my experience with my two 240zs. One is a 24k mile car with original paint. To be clear...both of my cars have / had bare metal with some sort of galvanized / sacrificial treatment, then undercoating, then a light dusting coat of paint...same color as exterior....all done in factory. No primer.
  4. There are things one could nit pick but overall, without seeing it in person, looks like a nice car. If you can see it / drive it in person, you can find out way more about the car. Look for prior wreck damage / evidence. Look for rust (under master cylinder, under battery, floors from interior, dog legs, hatch deck, etc. How does it do driving straight? Does it stop straight? Does steering wheel shake under any conditions? Does anything come out of exhaust...blue, black, white? Is there an exhaust leak? If seller will let you, how does the car do if you drive it and shift first to second and second to third at 6k rpms? Does transmission shift smoothly and quietly? Does it run hot? Does clutch slip? How do engine oil and coolant look? How well does it start and warm up cold? Do all gauges work? Get it on a lift. Any leaks? How do the bushings look? New or original? Rubber or poly? How do the black suspension pieces look: coat of surface rust most likely if never refinished? How thick is the paint and how does it look in person? Tire age and condition?
  5. Based on the photos it looks like a fantastic car. While it is hard to predict what you would find under the undercoating, the photos make me think the floors and frame rails would be solid.... with surface rust....maybe some more serious spots. I would be surprised if it requires new floors or rails. I do think the undercarriage needs immediate attention. I am pretty sure the car has factory undercoating...which was unfortunately applied over bare metal. I would remove the undercoating, address any rust spots, epoxy prime and paint. As flakey as the undercoating appears to be, if you drive it and allow it to get wet, moisture will get trapped under the undercoating and serious rust will develop. I happen to be currently removing the factory undercoating on my 72 240z. My undercoating is / was in great visual condition. As I remove the undercoating, i am finding bare metal with light amounts of surface rust.....which comes off easily with a combination of wire wheel work and phosohoric acid treatment. Nissan clearly expected these cars to last 5 years or so and then get crushed.
  6. Could also swap cylinder 1 injector with another cylinder to see if the problem follows the injector. Also, I could be totally off base but it just seems odd that one cylinder misbehaving would cause the severe symptoms you are describing, backfiring, etc. In a healthy engine, you can disable a cylinder and it will run...lower idle speed, lower power, etc...but will run without bucking and backfiring. Just a thought to consider.
  7. Your problem sounds similar to what I experienced with my 75 280 a few years ago. The AFM flap was stuck open....because it was slightly bent. It probably got worse and worse due to repeated intake backfires. Something to check out.... And...all...is it really that necessary to take a stand on a person's use of one word or another? That kind of comment just seems out of step with the purpose of this forum and also the typically kind culture I see here. Lets leave that stuff out of this great site.
  8. @Tirnipgreen...message me your mailing address and I will send you a few.
  9. Here is what I used to replace the little rubber grommets when I restored my heater box. 240z heater box rubber grommet
  10. @ensys.... just seeing this. What you wrote above is how I understand it AND it is consistent with what I figured out while rebuilding a 1972 manual transmission D612-53 distributor this past week. For the D612-53, the advance curve is documented in the 1972 FSM on pages EC-12, EC-28, and EC-29. The curves show distributor RPM, not crankshaft RPM so you have to double the number to arrive at the crank advance number. The manual shows an average curve of 12x2=24. When I rebuilt the distributor, I was able to see that the top weight is stamped with the number 12....indicating 24 degrees of mechanical advance at the crank...consistent with the manual. FYI, the technical bulletin manual for Jan 1969 through Dec 1972 has a section that shows advance curves for some of the distributor models that Datsun had produced to date at that time. So if your distributor is an early one you might find it listed in this technical bulletin book starting on page 88. The models listed in the manual for the 240z are D612-52, D613-01, D614-51, and D614-52. In case you have the euro spec distributor, the advance curve works as follows....based on my research and notes (also consistent with my testing using timing light and mityvac). Initial 17 degrees at 650 rpm Mechanical is 6 distributor degrees or 12 crankshaft degrees. Starts at 900 rpm and reaches 12 crank degrees by 2,000 rpm. I haven't rebuilt my euro spec distributor but I would expect the weights to have a 6 (or something close) stamped on the top. Vacuum is 5.5 distributor degrees or 11 crankshaft degrees. Starts at 3.94 inHG and reaches 11 crankshaft degrees by 9.6 inHG.
  11. @madkaw....if you have 72 3 screw carbs where the front bowl lid has longer ears....in my opinion you will never really get the front carb adjusted. What I do now, successfully, is I put a short ear bowl lid on the front carb. Then I use the short needle jets on both. This also helps with the problem of the float hitting the float chamber wall. As Site says....the shape of the float tang is key too. As in his photo above, needs to be curved. The reason...in my opinion...is that the newer needle jets have a very thin needle and they are very sloppy in their movement. They get stuck on a tang that isn't shaped ideally. The original needle jets had much thicker needles and were rounded at the tip so they moved much more easily along the tang. My opinion. I think I read that you picked up a spare set of carbs. Try using the short ear lid on your customer's front carb....get the float tang shape right....and I bet you are money.
  12. @SteveJ ... if you decide to use original rubber for the mustache bar bushings, I have a tool you can use in your press to bend the metal properly into place. If you decide to go with polly, leave the sleeves from the original mustache bar bushings in place. Just burn out / cut out the rubber.
  13. This is great info @SteveJ. Exactly what I have been looking for. Appreciate the video too.
  14. Any chance head is cracked? Give it a try if you are willing to invest time and energy. I am curious whether cylinders seal correctly given the fire / seal rings will have already been crushed. Let us know!
  15. Hi @VaCat33. Sorry about your problem. I have some experience with and thoughts on vapor lock and will share with you. But, in my experience vapor lock doesn't shut the car down for 2 hours. The very worst cases of vapor lock resolve within 30 minutes (in my experience). So, I would at least do some testing on the ignition system. When the car dies, are you getting spark at all plugs? Cap, rotor, points all in good shape? Plugs less than a year old and NGK vs some other brand? As others have mentioned above...is there fuel in the bowls or are they empty for reasons beyond vapor lock? Stuck needle jets? clogged screen where fuel enters the needle jet chamber? Fuel filter? Fuel tank? Vapor lock: I spend summers in Hot Atlanta and vapor lock was at one point a problem with my 72. When I have everything set right, I can idle in traffic as long as necessary and it never vapor locks even on 100 degree days. - I run BP 93 octane gasoline. I need the octane because my E88 head is slightly milled and pinging can be a problem. So, I don't run ethanol free because you can only find it in 89 or 90 around here. I have found ethanol fuel to have a lower boiling point AND....it gets very bad with age. I have found that a tank with fuel much over a month or so old begins to have a lower boiling point...based on my vapor lock observations. I drive my 72 a lot (most days) so keeping fresh fuel in it isn't a problem. When we are out of town for extended periods though I keep the fuel level low so I can fill up with fresh fuel when I return. So, my question is...how old is your fuel? - During summer I disconnect the air intake hose for Winter and attach a different but same diameter hose and run it through the left side round hole in the radiator support. I then keep the summer/winter switch on the air cleaner in the Winter mode. This keeps cooler air coming into the engine. - I use a Mishimoto aluminum radiator and stock fan. Temps never reach 50% mark on gauge. - I wrapped my stock exhaust manifold and carburetor float bowls with a heat shielding product I purchased on Amazon. This lowered my float bowl temps by 20+ degrees. - I run a Carter P4070 electric fuel pump with no manual pump. I also have a fuel pressure regulator set to about 3.5psi and a fuel pressure gauge in line. - My fuel tank has been boiled, acid dipped, and coated on the inside, powder coated on outside so....clean fuel. So, I do believe some if not all of the things above contributed to solving my vapor lock problems. As things stand now, the two things that cause my car to run poorly are.... 1) any hint of fuel that is not completely fresh. 2) spark plugs older than about 8 months. Even though my plugs look perfect, once they are about 8 months old my car starts sputtering around 5k rpms. Change to new plugs and problem gone. I have a petronix electronic ignition in a euro spec 240z distributor fyi. I hope something I have shared is helpful and that you are able to resolve your problem. Take care and let us know what you end up finding to be the problem. J
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