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jonathanrussell

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About jonathanrussell


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  • Joined: 01/27/2005


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jonathanrussell last won the day on July 27 2020

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    Atlanta, GA
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    Retired

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  • Zcars Owned
    240z
  • About my Cars
    - 72 240z 4spd with less than 50k. Silver with black interior.
    - 72 240z 4spd with 24k. Orange with black interior.
    - 75 280z with 65k. 304 Gold with black interior.
    - 78 280z with 60k. Original pearl black with sap and black interior.

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  1. Hi @VaCat33. Sorry about your problem. I have some experience with and thoughts on vapor lock and will share with you. But, in my experience vapor lock doesn't shut the car down for 2 hours. The very worst cases of vapor lock resolve within 30 minutes (in my experience). So, I would at least do some testing on the ignition system. When the car dies, are you getting spark at all plugs? Cap, rotor, points all in good shape? Plugs less than a year old and NGK vs some other brand? As others have mentioned above...is there fuel in the bowls or are they empty for reasons beyond vapor lock? Stuck needle jets? clogged screen where fuel enters the needle jet chamber? Fuel filter? Fuel tank? Vapor lock: I spend summers in Hot Atlanta and vapor lock was at one point a problem with my 72. When I have everything set right, I can idle in traffic as long as necessary and it never vapor locks even on 100 degree days. - I run BP 93 octane gasoline. I need the octane because my E88 head is slightly milled and pinging can be a problem. So, I don't run ethanol free because you can only find it in 89 or 90 around here. I have found ethanol fuel to have a lower boiling point AND....it gets very bad with age. I have found that a tank with fuel much over a month or so old begins to have a lower boiling point...based on my vapor lock observations. I drive my 72 a lot (most days) so keeping fresh fuel in it isn't a problem. When we are out of town for extended periods though I keep the fuel level low so I can fill up with fresh fuel when I return. So, my question is...how old is your fuel? - During summer I disconnect the air intake hose for Winter and attach a different but same diameter hose and run it through the left side round hole in the radiator support. I then keep the summer/winter switch on the air cleaner in the Winter mode. This keeps cooler air coming into the engine. - I use a Mishimoto aluminum radiator and stock fan. Temps never reach 50% mark on gauge. - I wrapped my stock exhaust manifold and carburetor float bowls with a heat shielding product I purchased on Amazon. This lowered my float bowl temps by 20+ degrees. - I run a Carter P4070 electric fuel pump with no manual pump. I also have a fuel pressure regulator set to about 3.5psi and a fuel pressure gauge in line. - My fuel tank has been boiled, acid dipped, and coated on the inside, powder coated on outside so....clean fuel. So, I do believe some if not all of the things above contributed to solving my vapor lock problems. As things stand now, the two things that cause my car to run poorly are.... 1) any hint of fuel that is not completely fresh. 2) spark plugs older than about 8 months. Even though my plugs look perfect, once they are about 8 months old my car starts sputtering around 5k rpms. Change to new plugs and problem gone. I have a petronix electronic ignition in a euro spec 240z distributor fyi. I hope something I have shared is helpful and that you are able to resolve your problem. Take care and let us know what you end up finding to be the problem. J
  2. Lots of ways or combinations of ways to confirm blown head gasket. Smell in the presence of white exhaust.....assuming your sniffer is reliable. Borescope is a great idea. Might be something you can rent from an auto parts store. The leaky cylinder will have part or all of the piston clean. Often the spark plug will be unusually clean too. Leak down and / or compression test can contribute to the evidence. Watching coolant level and seeing that it reduces.
  3. hmm. that could be your clue. eventually that will worsen over time and affect temp. Maybe it worsened a bit when you noticed the change in temp. Will also corrode your cylinders (and clean your piston tops) if the car sits for any amount of time. If you think you have a blown head gasket....I would encourage you to pull the head and fix it. J
  4. might do a compression test. could have a slight head gasket blow / leak. losing any antifreeze? Oil look normal?
  5. Just a couple of ideas to check. Are you sure the throttle linkage is allowing the butterfly valves to fully close? Any chance there is dirt / crud / mice nests restricting the butterfly valves? Not sure I am using the right term...butterfly valves. I am talking about the round brass plates that move 90 degrees and allow air / fuel in to intake. May need to remove carbs and see that the valves fully close. J
  6. Hey @Jughead This is kind of old but I am just now reading it so I thought I would respond. I have never really thought about how I do this in steps but here is my best shot from memory. Also, I assume you are asking about pre-1973 round top carbs. 1) Make sure your nozzles open and close freely. Once verified, fully close the nozzles. 2) Make sure cable wires are straight and not bent / kinked. 3) Move choke lever inside car to off position. 4) feed cable wires through clamp holes on carbs. Don't tighten yet. 5) Tighten base of cable sheath to carb. 6) Tighten cable wire clamps. 7) Test that when you engage choke the nozzles open up. Reach down under the carbs and feel the gap open up as the nozzles move down. 8 Test that when you move the choke off the nozzles close. 9) Hopefully with this done your choke light goes off when you move the choke lever to the off position. 10) Choke should move freely without effort. If this is not the case, something is wrong, kinked, etc.
  7. I use Dorman 96034. Dorman 96034 on Amazon
  8. I had really good results from Redkote. As @siteunseen has mentioned before, it is important to let it cure for a few weeks. I let mine sit for a month. Haven't seen any trace of red in the fuel filters, etc. Here is a summary of what I did. Fyi, my tank was in pretty good shape...not full of rust...more like flash rust where the internal zinc / cad coating had failed. Plug all holes. Use rope to suspend it between two trees...allowing you to rotate the tank while it is filled with whatever cleaner you are using. I also came up with a way to hold the tank still in certain positions. In other words...if I flip the tank in one direction I wanted it to sit in that direction for 20 minutes or whatever. I used muriatic acid first. I used a phosphoric acid after that. At this point, everything looked clean inside. Used alcohol to final clean and evaporate dry. Kind of have to work fast with the Redkote...fill...plug...rotate over and over....make sure fully coated....pour out remaining unused redkote from tank. J
  9. Hey @Av8ferg.... the parts look really great. Do you know if they will work via shipping? Would you mind providing contact info? Also...how much prep did you do before delivering the parts to them?
  10. They are a firm foam but way softer than Poly bump stops.
  11. @JagoBlitz...very interested in knowing how you end up liking the MSA strut mounts. Also...which bump stops do you guys use? Most recently I used the KONI 7034950000 bump stops. They are the best I have tried and will use going forward.
  12. I would just store it, keep the cam lobes oiled, keep cylinders oiled, and rotate it periodically.
  13. Just my opinion but....I think that your numbers matching engine will contribute more value to the selling price of your car (when you sell some day) than it will ever bring by selling it separately.
  14. Thanks for the info. So, I just stacked all of the parts (strut insulator, spacer, spring seat, bump stop) together....and then installed everything over the koni strut rod sleeve...which is installed at the top of the strut rod. I experimented with both ways to orient the sleeve. The strut insulator gets bolted firmly against the top of the strut rod sleeve we are discussing. The strut rod sleeve slides through the middle of the spacer OR bearing. I So, I don't understand what you mean by your 2nd paragraph above. With everything stacked together, if the wide portion of the koni strut rod sleeve is oriented downward, then it protrudes about 1/4 inch below the bottom of the spring seat. Based on this, I doubt that the 1/4 protrusion would ever damage the bump stop. I do now wonder whether the wide portion of the sleeve, if installed downward, could get hung up in the hole of the spring seat when installed on lowering springs, the car is lifted up, and full droop causes the spring seat to drop below the wide portion of the sleeve. I also compared the parts with KYB and old Bilstein struts I have on hand. Both are the same diameter at the top where the threads end/start as the narrow portion of the Koni sleeve. And, both widen permanently at about the same spot where the wide portion of the Koni sleeve would rest if installed downward. The difference though is that if the wide portion of the koni sleeve is installed downward it kind of serves as something that the spring seat could get hung on as described above. So, for me, in balance, I think I will continue installing koni strut inserts with the wide portion of the sleeve on the top.
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