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jonathanrussell

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jonathanrussell last won the day on March 26

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About jonathanrussell

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    Male
  • Map Location
    Atlanta, GA
  • Occupation
    CIO

My Cars

  • About my Cars
    -Mostly stock 72 240z 4spd with less than 50k. Silver with black interior.
    -Completely stock 72 240z 4spd with 24k. Orange with black interior.
    -Completely stock 75 280z with 65k. 304 Gold with black interior.
    -Completely stock 78 280z with 60k. Original pearl black with sap and black interior.

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  1. I am in Marietta GA. On a convenient Saturday, I would be willing to drive my 72 to Chattanooga so you can look it over, take photos, etc.
  2. Personally I think grannyknot made a valid comment about the color. His point, I think, was to show a roof shot that is painted the same color as the OP's car assuming the OP's car is original blue, but looks silver because camera auto exposure and color balance functionality can easily be tricked into making, for instance, blues lean silver or reds lean orange or oranges lean red or lemon/lime yellow lean yellow...etc, etc. The question I think grannyknot wants the reader to ask themselves is.... could it be that the ash tray / tunnel shot provided by the OP suffers from the same camera color shift phenomenon, thereby causing the OP's shot to look more silver than blue. We could also just bypass the technology (and I am a technology guy...camera hobby guy too). OP....what do your eyes see? Is the tunnel of your car and area under the ash tray the same color as the exterior? What about under the carpet on the rear deck? What about under the carpet behind the seats? Under the seats? Under the floor carpet? Under the rear strut tower caps?
  3. Very interesting car. No doubt, the color code on the radiator support is puzzling. I find myself wanting to see 30-40 high resolution photos of lots of key areas. Personally, I don't see what another poster is seeing with the tunnel under the ash tray. Looks right for the blue paint to me but again more resolution would be better. If we were playing a no risk game and I had to decide whether it is a 350 mile car based only on the photos provided, I would have to vote that it is a 350 mile car. To me, the zinc and metal under the hood, while dirty, doesn't look like a 100,350 mile car. I don't think you have showed us the "dent" in the fender but I would try like heck to not disturb the original paint. If it means leaving the dent, fine. If it means finding the best paintless dent person on the planet and fixing without painting then ideal. No matter what though you have a great car to own and enjoy. No doubt you could flip it...but you could also enjoy it some and flip later. Welcome to the site! More photos please! Edit: One other thing I would do if it were my car...I would remove the original seats and save them and find another set on ebay to restore. If you show the car install the original seats. When you drive some...use the restored seats.
  4. Clearly it is so the PO knew which chamber was #3 rather than #4. I am just hoping he/she counted right.😉
  5. I think you are doing the right thing...removing head and starting over. I install head gasket, manifold gasket, and valve cover dry. I install the oil pan dry except for a thin layer of black rtv along the join line where the block and front cover meet on both sides.
  6. You could try eliminating the chassis fuel lines as a variables first. Might prove the tank is actually fine. Connect the tank out barb to an external fuel hose running to your now known to be working fuel pump. Does fuel pump to the pump outlet? Since you have a mechanical fuel pump it means you will need to buy a decent amount of fuel hose though. Or, might you have an electric fuel pump laying around. Just be careful working with the tank and lines and exposed fuel. Don't burn your car or more up.
  7. All of the L series heads I have looked at have Teflon looking tape for these plugs. I am not sure though whether it is some sort of special tape that is resistant to oil or simply Teflon tape. I would like to know what others think or know abut this tape. Edit: Added photo of my E88 NOS head showing tape.
  8. Another thought.... Does anyone make a thread repair insert (like time-sert) that is closed on the bottom of the inside? Another thought.... You could change this one fastener to a stud and thread lock it in then tighten that one with a nut. That way the water passage is sealed and you are not ever removing it.
  9. What a bummer regarding the valve cover bolt hole. How do you think you are going to fix? Could have the hole welded up slowly so you don't warp the head, then drill, tap. I wonder if you re-tap and then seal the valve cover bolt threads does it matter....at least for a quick fix?
  10. Agree about sliding the balls out using the x shaped piece. And, what I have seen get damaged are the plastic spacers. They get cut just a bit and then don't slide so well anymore unless you dress them up by trimming away the cut, sanding a bit, etc. Best of luck. Let us know how it goes with the new set.
  11. @Reinier If you want to try one more thing with your shafts, try cleaning off all grease and spray everything with wd40 and put them together. Do they still bind? I had a difficult halfshaft set and ended up spraying everything lightly (but completely) with wd40 and adding grease at the end by using a needle attachment on my grease gun. End result was shafts that moved freely and have worked great. Will see whether there are any long term problems but.... Edit: I just found my notes on how I rebuilt my last set of shafts. For terminology, refer to the 1973 FSM page RA-10 figure RA-26 showing the shaft components. I capitalized part names from figure RA-26. 1) Clean everything...remove all grease. 2) Spray everything with WD40. 3) Install large washer and snap ring (neither are labeled in figure RA-26) that get installed on the Drive Shaft side of the Sleeve Yoke. This ends up in the middle of the assembly. With these two pieces installed, the Drive Shaft will still slide into the yoke. The purpose of the washer is to limit the spacers / balls from sliding out. 4) Install dust boot onto driveshaft. There are lots of ways to do this but I used wd40 and a socket clamped to a vice to get the boot started. Then, push the boot all the way in and inside out if you can so it is out of the way. 5) Slide the driveshaft into the yoke doing your best to keep the bearing slots aligned...making sure to orient the assembly in the right direction...see figure RA-26. 6) Here is the weird part. Start installing Ball Spacers and Drive Shaft Balls from the YOKE end. This seemed counter intuitive to me but others may think otherwise. Use liberal amount of WD40 (different from what I wrote earlier). Don't let the Drive Shaft move too far into the Yoke. You don't want it to move past the position where the assembly would be the shortest. If you do...Drive Shaft Balls and Ball Spacers fall out. Ask me how I know. I probably did this 10 times before I figured out that I needed to limit how far the Drive Shaft can insert into the Yoke. As I kept adding Drive Shaft Balls and Ball Spacers, I would periodically insert the Drive Shaft Stopper from the Yoke end to push the balls and spacers down farther into the Drive Shaft / Yoke assembly so that I could keep inserting additional Drive Shaft Balls and Ball Spacers. 7) Once all Drive Shaft Balls and Ball Spacers are installed, install the Drive Shaft Stopper (orient correctly) and Snap Ring (this one isn't labeled in figure RA-26). 8- Let WD40 drain. 9) Use the smallest needle attachment for your grease gun you can find and begin injecting grease into the bearing grooves that don't have balls. Move Drive Shaft in and out of the Yoke to distribute grease. Keep doing this until you think the assembly is nicely packed. 10) Pack center and boot with grease and fasten boot. 11) Install Sleeve Yoke Plug and Snap Ring. Hope this helps.
  12. In the head I built last summer I used Sealed Power ST-2034 seals. Too recent to say how they will do long term but so far so good. I chose them because they are a viton seal. The seals I had sitting around that came in a few gasket kits just seemed kind of hard as a rock.
  13. I have removed and reinstalled the handbrake cables several times and I don't recall the spring being that compressed. Can you think of something that would cause the cable to be in what looks more like the position it is in when the brake is engaged? Are the e-brake adjustment nuts / rods under the transmission tunnel too tight in terms of their adjustment?
  14. You sure that you don't have the emergency brake lever pulled up / engaged?
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