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jonathanrussell

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jonathanrussell last won the day on March 26

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About jonathanrussell

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    Atlanta, GA
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    CIO

My Cars

  • About my Cars
    -Mostly stock 72 240z 4spd with less than 50k. Silver with black interior.
    -Completely stock 72 240z 4spd with 24k. Orange with black interior.
    -Completely stock 75 280z with 65k. 304 Gold with black interior.
    -Completely stock 78 280z with 60k. Original pearl black with sap and black interior.

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  1. Your 280z is a 76 isn't it? Your intake manifold is the 75/76 variety that doesn't have the webbing between ports. My 75 has a heat shield though that attaches to the underside of the intake manifold. I can't see a heat shield in your photos. If there isn't one, you might reinstall, or locate one and install. If that doesn't cool your rail, you could also wrap your headers or shield them with something like what I used for my 240z manifold. heat shield material
  2. I always assumed, right or wrong, that they were not present on 240z models. My 24k mile 6/72 240z does not have the two piece steel straps / braces.
  3. They are present on my very original 75 280z.
  4. I will share a couple of things with you that you can think about and potentially try out. I do think SU carbs are sensitive to temperature. They are also prone to fuel percolation in the float bowls. When the weather is below about 55 degrees I move the air cleaner to the winter setting which pulls air from the warm area around the exhaust manifold. If you have headers you may want to figure out how to direct the winter air duct to the area around your headers for cooler weather (assuming you have a winter/summer air cleaner housing). On 80+ degree days, I disconnect the winter duct and run a duct from the air cleaner round winter port through the hole in the radiator support so cool air gets pulled from in front of the radiator (so, in this case I set the air cleaner to winter). On fall and spring days between 60 and 80, I use the normal summer mode where air gets pulled from the under-hood area. Also, I was having idling in traffic problems at the start of summer this year. I have an electric fuel pump and I only run ethanol free fuel. After lots of trial and error, I solved the problem by wrapping pretty much every inch of my stock (but ceramic coated) exhaust manifold with the product in the link below. I also wrapped the float bowls. I haven't had idle problems in the heat again. Here is the product I used, though there are lots of ways to accomplish with headers. Heatshield Armor As mentioned above, your plugs look great and your carb float setting must be pretty spot on....key in my opinion to getting these carbs to work right.
  5. I would stick with OEM regulator. I would buy and install in the engine bay a good fuel pressure gauge. Since you are replacing the injectors, I would probably wait and measure PSI with your current regulator before buying a new one. It is important to really understand what psi readings you should see at idle and under load / rev. See FSM and read forum messages. Also, critical to make sure efi electrical connections are solid and clean, no vacuum leaks (follow the tiny vacuum lines that enable hvac controls, boot for afm / throttle body, egr valve, etc), clean fuel, etc.
  6. @johncdeere I have a printed MSA catalog from around 2006. In the "new products" section they have a rear disk brake conversion kit. There are three options. 1) buy all of the brackets, hoses, bolts, etc that you will need. With this kit you had to supply the calipers and rotors. 2) buy all of the above and they supply solid rotors and calipers. 3) buy all of the above and they supply drilled rotors and calipers. In the first option above, you had to supply the following: - 82-83 ZX rotors. - 85-88 Maxima front wheel drive calipers. Also, fyi, I have a 2007 Black Dragon catalog and there is no option for a rear disk conversion kit.
  7. I would be careful about taking it some place and letting anyone swing away at it. They'll get it out....but. I do agree that removing this bolt is on par with spindle pins. Actually, I think it is worse. The good news for me is I am refreshing a 4spd transmission later this month so will enjoy the bolt removal joy again. Best of luck!
  8. I did this last summer and it is very frustrating trying to apply enough force but not damage the bolt. In the end, what worked for me is a combination of what EuroDat and Patcon wrote. I used lots of heat. left the nut on to protect the threads. Tried to avoid heating the bolt and instead direct heat to the fork body. Key though was to use a steel bar resting on the nut so that I could hammer from closer to outside of the housing. I used a 3/8" socket extension with the square side resting on the nut. I would heat and then tap. Eventually, it moved. I bet I worked at it for 2 hours too. Be patient and it will eventually free up.
  9. Do the valves that correspond with the piston you think was replaced look different from the other valves? Maybe a valvetrain issue caused a collision...which caused the head to get worked on but not really rebuilt?
  10. The symptom you are describing is consistent with the flaw I have seen with the older one. The soldered joints become loose and then the pipes move around, fall off, etc. I would use the newer one.
  11. The link below is for the newer style Nissan oil spray bar. I know I have seen it on 75 and 76 280Zs. Not sure when it first appeared. I have seen it cheaper but like anything you may need to wait to find it cheaper. In my experience it is the early spray bar that is prone to failure. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F173949822218
  12. My struggle has always been with the long ear lid. I find it causes the float to hang too low in the bowl and hang against the wall. What is the length if the needle valve you are using for front...long, and rear...short? If I measure the needle valve body...not the threads and not the floating needle...just the full body...I get 18.5mm short 20.5mm long. Any chance you are using a long needle valve in a short ear lid?
  13. It was a needle and seat / jet alternative that was available for our Hitachi SU carbs at one time. I don't know when they stopped being available. They are still available for other SU carbs. I have never used them so I don't know first hand how well they work but just based on the photos and concept I would think they would be an improvement. The photo below is a grose-jet for a Triumph but it shows the concept.
  14. What I have found is....if you compare the needle jets that were originally installed in these cars 47+ years ago with the new needle jets that come in the carb rebuild kits, you will notice that they are different. New needle jets have a pretty thin needle that contacts the tab on the float. The old had a much thicker needle that contacted the tab. What I have observed is that if the tab is too curved the thinner new needle jet needle gets hung on the tab. So, I try really hard to bend the tab so that it allows for the right fuel level but also is as flat as possible.
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