Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


jonathanrussell last won the day on July 27 2020

jonathanrussell had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

126 Excellent


About jonathanrussell

  • Rank
    Registered User


  • Map Location
    Atlanta, GA
  • Occupation

My Cars

  • About my Cars
    -Mostly stock 72 240z 4spd with less than 50k. Silver with black interior.
    -Completely stock 72 240z 4spd with 24k. Orange with black interior.
    -Completely stock 75 280z with 65k. 304 Gold with black interior.
    -Completely stock 78 280z with 60k. Original pearl black with sap and black interior.

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Welcome. Looks like an awesome car. We might have similar stories. I had a 280z when I was a kid in the early / mid 80's. Ended up selling it when I got serious about college. 20 years later (15 years ago now) I got interested / addicted again. My unsolicited advice is to resist the temptation to take it apart and try to fix / address everything. Stick with weekend or 2 weekend projects and keep it running. This is a great forum. I have learned so much from the smart people who are regulars. In other words, you have come to the right place.
  2. Hey @Trnelson...interesting read. Did this solve your oil consumption problem? Thanks...
  3. To me, the best way to restore the battery area is to drill out the spot welds and remove the tray. If you do this, buy a nice, properly sized spot weld drill bit and extender, and practice removing spot welds without drilling through the body. You will then need to weld up the holes in the battery frame...or buy a new one. I use rivet nuts to re-attach the tray to the body. Not saying you should do this though. It is a pretty big rabbit hole because you will probably want to clean up those passenger side frame rails too...which is difficult without removing the fuel / brake lines and ha
  4. I spent hours on this trying many ideas. What finally worked for me was.... 1) Loosen the nut until it is flush with end of the bolt. 2) Heat fork...several cycles. 3) Then, I used a long 3/8 socket extension. I rested the side of the male end of the socket extension on the nut head. Then, I hit the side of the extension with a bfh until it released. To be clear...I was not resting the end of the socket extension on the nut end and reaching a hammer inside the case. The socket extension is horizontal....parallel to the transmission shafts. The side of the male end of the socket
  5. So, sitting at a red light... Does the idle stumble with your foot on the brake? What about stopped at a red light using the hand brake instead? If it stumbles only when you have your foot on the brake pedal... check the brake booster. When sitting at a light with foot on brake, can you hear a hissing / air leak at your feet? Plug vacuum line to booster and test idle (careful if you drive). I have found that the booster can still work but leak at idle with brake depressed....which will make your idle drop.
  6. I have been away for a few months but really enjoyed this discussion. Adding weight to the float is a really interesting idea that I will keep in mind. With added weight, you could trim the side of the float so you eliminate the problem with the float hitting the bowl on the front long ear carb. I have shaved a float before but didn't think of adding weight. FYI, I shaved it by sanding it. Solved the clearance problem but...reduced weight. I know we all end up solving our float adjustment problems in different ways but here is what I have settled on. I use two rear lids and two short need
  7. It has been a couple of years so make sure what I remember looks reasonable. I installed the energy PU bushings in the same transmission mount you show here. You are right...they are too long. I removed any sleeves from the rubber bushing and my recollection is that they slide right into the mustache bar hole. I solved the "too long" problem by using a belt sander to remove material on the bushing. I am pretty sure I removed material from the outside portion of the bushing. It was tedious because I wanted them to fit snug and didn't want to remove too much material. So, I worked a little at a
  8. Here is a short video of the tool being used. I know others have had them made too .... which is how I got the idea. I want to say Mike has one but I could be mixed up. MustacheBarTool.MOV
  9. I don't know if this qualifies since I paid someone to produce it. It is a mustache bar bushing press tool. When used in a press, it folds the metal bushing sleeve tight at the original angle.
  10. Hi. Welcome. So, I assume the original engine is in the car now. Why are you going to rebuild it? Do you have compression numbers? Does it run?
  11. Another thing to think about. There are two ways the ignition / distributor timing plate can be adjusted. First is the obvious way we all use to loosen the set screw on the back side of the distributor and then rotate the distributor so that the timing plate hits the Retarded or Advanced line we want. That plate though fastens to the bottom of the distributor with a set screw that screws up into the bottom of the distributor and the hole in the plate where the screw passes through is slotted and adjustable. If you loosen that screw, you can "macro" adjust / rotate the distributor. What I
  12. Just seeing this. This is a really good discussion. I just wanted to offer two things. First, if you have never driven, felt, both bushing types, don't discount the possibility that people are different, ride quality is subjective, and that you may or may not agree with the consensus. For a long time I had the idea that, based on consensus, Energy / PU bushings would be harsh and that I wouldn't like them. So, I avoided them until about 2 years ago when I was refreshing one of my 240zs. For this one, and for a lot of reasons, I decided to go the PU route. I installed PU everywhere except
  13. Just reading this. Great that you got the wedge bolt out. I had a hell of a time with this about a year or so ago. I ended up doing multiple heat cycles on the fork, followed by using a hammer to hit the side of a long socket extension that was resting on the threaded side of the bolt. I rested the socket side of the extension on the loosened nut and hit the part of the extension that was outside of the housing with a hammer. In other words, the extension was reaching into the housing from the front / big opening...parallel to the shift rod. Like you, my transmission didn't have the convenient
  14. Kind of an old post but I am just now reading it so.... I actually used a bench grinder with a medium to fine stone. I press the bushing surface against the side of the spinning stone. And, I don't press the bushing against the stone with the grinder powered on, running full speed. I power it on and off intermittently while I press the bushing against the stone. I never let the bench grinder spin at full speed. Took some time but worked well and ended up removing material evenly. Could also use a belt sander mounted in a vice would think. If a belt sander, I would probably use some
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.