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jonathanrussell last won the day on March 26

jonathanrussell had the most liked content!

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About jonathanrussell

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    Atlanta, GA
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My Cars

  • About my Cars
    -Mostly stock 72 240z 4spd with less than 50k. Silver with black interior.
    -Completely stock 72 240z 4spd with 24k. Orange with black interior.
    -Completely stock 75 280z with 65k. 304 Gold with black interior.
    -Completely stock 78 280z with 60k. Original pearl black with sap and black interior.

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  1. Needle bearing from a u-joint cap?
  2. One other thing to check after you have done all of the things mentioned above...tail light seals in particular. On the inside of the hatch, there is a vinyl wrapped trim piece that extends across the bottom back of the hatch. That trim piece needs to be flat and sealed with sealant to the hatch. Otherwise, fumes get sucked into the lock mechanism and in through breaks in the seal of this trim piece. Most of the time, in my experience, after 45 years of not being removed and re-sealed this trim piece is wavy and has many spots where there are air gaps. Last summer, a 72 that I had just rebuilt was filling the cabin with fumes. I had sealed every possible entry point and then it hit me that I had not re-sealed the hatch trim panel. Did that and no more exhaust fumes.
  3. Any chance that a previous owner put some sort of spacer in the bottom of your front struts to make the KYB struts fit?
  4. I use the Vintage Rubber door seals and they have worked great for me. No slamming doors. http://vintagerubber.com/datsun-nissan/
  5. The silicone theoretically indicates that the flapper door tension hasn't been adjusted from spec. Adjusting the tension changes mixture. Of course, someone could have adjusted and re-applied silicone. So, does the AFM flapper door move open and closed freely as it should?
  6. To be clear....it is not the TB flap that is the potential problem. There is a flap inside the AFM. it freely opens and closes as air volume passes. When it opens and closes, it moves the electrical connection creating varying resistance values. It is the AFM flap I am suggesting that you test. If it is stuck open or stuck in any position = BAD.
  7. I have been watching / reading your progress. Didn't want to suggest things already suggested and divert your focus. Early on though I suggested that you remove the air flow meter hoses and do two things. 1) inspect the condition of the hose that connects the AFM and the throttle body. There should be no cracks / leaks. 2) Shine a light into the AFM and view the position of the flap. It should be closed tight and it should not be bent and it should open completely and close completely with free movement. As I mentioned earlier, the worst my 75 280z has ever run was a time when the AFM flap was stuck open. They can bend and get stuck if at some point the car has backfired through the intake. If stuck wide open, the AFM reports WOT all the time. Anyway, I can't recall reading that you checked this. Maybe you did and I missed it. Keep trying. And....I know that the tendency is to stay laser focused on fuel pressure. Personally, I don't have great confidence that you are getting meaningful readings. If AFM checks out, I would look at injector flow and fuel pump.
  8. The choke test...it is a quick way to determine whether the mixture may be too lean at idle. I was thinking that Rossiz's situation might be a lean mixture at idle. These cars, in my experience, like to idle a bit rich. When you add choke, you are dropping the nozzles...which is the same thing you do when you turn the mixtures down, away from the carb body, making the mixture more rich. So, if he adds a bit of choke and the idle stabilizes, it probably means he can solve his problem by adjusting the mixture a bit....if he is okay with the trade-off of potentially running a bit more rich throughout the power band. Regarding the dampening oil in the carbs...I have never paid too much attention to the quantity of oil. I start with one carb and add tiny amounts of oil until I the piston drops steady, all the way to the bottom, makes a slight thump, etc, but doesn't free fall and go clank. It is kind of a feel thing that you get used to seeing and hearing when you have it right. Important too is to have the domes aligned as you tighten down the dome screws so that the piston falls freely. Then, I make the other carb piston drop the same. Having the dampening set correctly ensures that the piston doesn't rise too fast (but rises and drops fully) during wide open throttle.....which would cause a sudden lean condition. Someone correct me please if I am describing this inaccurately. Regarding Oil weight...I think 20w50 would be fine. I have always used the oil ZTherapy provides but I don't remember the weight they use. Probably 20 weight but....
  9. If you add a very small amount of choke does the idle stabilize?
  10. I wish I could but 1) the valve is reassembled and installed in the car and 2) I am on an extended trip and am away from my car/garage/parts. Here is another photo with the larger washer sitting on the spring. Looks like it is about the same diameter as the spring. Its primary purpose seems to be to give the snap ring a solid surface before the spring.
  11. When I rebuilt mine, I took some photos after disassembly and made sure I kept things in order so I think this should help you. My photo isn't the best but ...the order starting from the outside hex bolt/plug goes.... 1) Hex plug. 2) Seal with flat side out and U cupped shape in. 3) smaller washer. 4) snap ring. 5) larger washer. 6) spring. 7) shaft (see photo for orientation). 8 ) Seal with flat side in and U cup shape pointing toward the hex plug/out. Essentially the U / cupped shape of the seals both point toward the center. I used a 5/16 socket to push the assembly down and cause the snap ring to re-seat when I reassembled. I used the MSA seal kit but really I think the original seals were just fine. Mostly what I accomplished was cleaning out 45 years of gunk.
  12. Sounds like you really know your way around these cars so I am guessing you have the carbs tuned well. But, I have found that these cars like to idle a bit rich. If you try to set the mixture too lean, you get (I get) terrible idle performance and backfiring through the carbs. If you apply a bit of choke while idling does it straighten out?
  13. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1974-Datsun-Z-Series/113690222495?hash=item1a78771f9f:g:1jUAAOSwGN9cjw8K
  14. https://tampa.craigslist.org/hil/cto/d/fort-lauderdale-1974-datsun-260z-trade/6845092595.html
  15. Take a look at the EuroDat's photo in his post #6 at this link.
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