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jonathanrussell

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jonathanrussell last won the day on September 26 2016

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About jonathanrussell

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Map Location
    Atlanta, GA
  • Occupation
    CIO

My Z Cars

  • About My Cars
    -Mostly stock 72 240z 4spd with less than 50k. Silver with black interior.
    -Completely stock 72 240z 4spd with 24k. Orange with black interior.
    -Completely stock 75 280z with 65k. 304 Gold with black interior.
    -Completely stock 78 280z with 60k. Original pearl black with sap and black interior.

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  1. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1974-Datsun-Z-Series/113690222495?hash=item1a78771f9f:g:1jUAAOSwGN9cjw8K
  2. https://tampa.craigslist.org/hil/cto/d/fort-lauderdale-1974-datsun-260z-trade/6845092595.html
  3. Take a look at the EuroDat's photo in his post #6 at this link.
  4. I am pretty sure @EuroDat has a photo that shows the seals / o-rings with part numbers so he may be more helpful too.
  5. My recollection is that it looks like most any other seal...inner dimension, width, outer dimension. I have a spare or two but am traveling for a bit so can't photo / measure.
  6. I bought them from Courtesy Nissan. But, it was a couple of years ago when I bought so I don't know. If I were looking to buy today and they were unavailable I am pretty sure I could find the same sizes from other generic sources.
  7. My concern about trying to seal your leak from the outside is that the shift mechanism rotates left and right all the time when making shifts. I think that whatever you do from the outside will fail to seal, get lodged, etc. I replaced the seals in my shift mechanism last summer and if I recall, in addition to the O ring, there was also a little seal. The hardest part of the job (for me) was removing the fork from the shift rod. There is a wedge bolt and nut. The wedge bolt is kind of like the wedge bolt that keeps the rear suspension spindle pin from rotating. It was really hard to get enough leverage to push out the wedge bolt, simultaneously being careful to not bend / break anything. Heat was the key and @EuroDat was a huge help giving me some advice. After that, it was an easy job and now I have no leaks. I was also getting gear oil filling up the cavity where the gear shift lever attaches to the trans. I also took this opportunity to check the bearings and replace all other seals and gaskets.
  8. I have three zcars. With each, my dad and I took a flight to the car and drove back to Atlanta. My dad and I had a great time along the way each time. Two of the three had mechanical issues that we had to deal with along the way though. Still...I would do all three again. First car was in Portland. Second car was in Phoenix. Third car was in Hershey PA. Each time we packed a suitcase of tools and a few spare parts. There was a long arse night in a pretty bad hotel in Midland Texas though. Car was running terrible. Fortunately a spare AFM for a 280 came in handy the next morning. I would say though...I would not attempt if the car didn't start, drive, stop, etc well enough when I tested it out in person. Because of the questions I had asked prior to the sale though, I felt good about being able to fly out and drive home with parts and tools. If the car didn't check out in person I would have made arrangements for transport...uhaul and rental, or transport company and fly home.
  9. Maybe a way to come up with a price is to first figure out what Eiji at Datsun Spirit or Dave Rebello would charge for a similar engine with similar hp numbers. Once you know that, I would think you also have to realistically know that the likelihood that you can charge the same as a proven engine builder is pretty slim....regardless of how nicely done your engine is. After that maybe you figure out what the discount is from a proven builder's price. In the end the market will determine what someone is willing to pay.
  10. Hi and welcome. Sorry you are having problems with your new 280. Keep this in mind though. it ran well recently so chances are you will get this sorted out and it will run well again. It worries me a bit that the prior mechanic wrote that they leaned the mixture. There really isn't a way to do that without screwing with the AFM which causes all sorts of other problems. Hopefully he did nothing. FYI, I watched your video. It sounds a lot like my 75 did at one point. I like your list of things to check this weekend. I would also remove the AFM boot(s) and check the inside of the AFM to see whether the Flap is stuck open. It should close when car is off and move freely up and down. I have seen an intake (not exhaust) backfire in a 280 cause the AFM flap to bend slightly. When this happens it can get stuck open. If it gets stuck open the car meters all the time like you are at WOT. My 75 had this problem and ran very much like yours in the video. Best of luck. Don't get discouraged. You are going to really enjoy the car once you get it sorted.
  11. I rebuilt my rear hubs this past summer. I did all of the work myself and was very careful about keeping the components exactly in order. My bearings were original and the grease was consistent with original grease. That combined with what I know about the car history makes me pretty sure the hubs had never been rebuilt prior (can never be positive though). My hubs have the copper phosphorous spacer. Here is the order of parts that I found starting on the inner hub...diff side. Crush / lock nut. zinc plated steel washer. companion flange oil seal copper phosphorus spacer (sandwiched between inner bearing and companion flange outer surface) inner bearing bearing spacer outer bearing axle / outer hub. To me, if your hub and spacer are matched with the same letter, I don't see how you could add a spacer between the bearing and the bearing spacer and have everything work right. Maybe they were mismatched and the spacers were used to solve the mismatch? If you decide to not use the copper spacers, take a look at the technical bulletin mentioned above. There is a different torque spec with vs without spacer.
  12. The master vac numbers seem more like a punch to me. I have the harbor freight number / letter punch sets in 1/4 and 1/8. Have never looked to see how closely the font matches though. https://www.harborfreight.com/36-piece-18-in-steel-letternumber-stamping-set-63676.html
  13. MSA sells a seal kit I have used successfully to refresh my valve. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/24-5556
  14. MSA sells a seal kit I have used successfully to refresh my valve. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/24-5556
  15. MSA sells a seal kit I have used successfully to refresh my valve. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/24-5556 Apologies for the multiple posts. When I hit save, didn't work as I usually see. Sorry.
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