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Mike W

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Mike W last won the day on August 23 2018

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About Mike W

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    Austin, TX

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  1. I have used the Spicer U-Joints on both the half shafts as well as the drive shaft and am very happy with the performance. Most recently I rebuilt a used set of half shafts using the Spicer U Joints (5-1505X) when we upgraded our diff and have had no issues with them since the initial install back in 2017. I purchased them at Autoplicity as they had the best pricing at the time. You can find them here at an even lower price that I paid almost 4 years ago. https://autoplicity.com/2016476-dana-spicer-axle-products-drivetrain-components?openOptions=True Hope that helps. Mike
  2. The threads on the valve itself are 1/8 NPT. You would either need to get an adapter that converts that to the metric fittings on the Z lines or remake the lines with the appropriate fittings. They actually sell a version with SAE adapters included. You can find it here: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Motors-Brake-Proportioning-Valve-Kit-With-Fittings,387281.html As far as mounting it, I attached a 1/8 inch aluminum "plate" to the side of the valve and drilled and tapped a hole in that plate. I then used a small right angle bracket that attaches to the valve in the new t
  3. I encountered the same issue when I changed to a big brake kit from Arizona Z car including the change to discs on the rear. In my opinion the Wilwood prop valve is big and clunky and I wanted something more compact that ideally could be installed in the same position as the OEM fixed prop valve. So I ended up using this: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Compact-Adjustable-Brake-Proportioning-Valve,1979.html It's really small and adjustable but does require conversion fittings to adapt to metric lines. Alternatively you could change the fittings on the lines themselves
  4. Well I just checked my install as I do not recall any interference problems. I ended up plugging that hole with an allen wrench style fitting and it just clears the manifold by about a millimeter or so. Here a few pictures to illustrate.
  5. Mike W

    led bulbs

    Well I located my spreadsheet for the LED bulb replacement. I have a late 260Z but pretty sure all of the bulbs for the gauges were the same. I believe that all of the bulbs I purchased came from Amazon. When I decided to do this I bought a variety of bulbs to try out and I also performed a sort of longevity test on the bulbs. I had found when I did this same thing to my F-150 a number of the LED's from Amazon burned out quickly and given the tediousness of changing them in the Z I did not want to have to deal with bad bulbs right after they got installed. So far all of mine have been
  6. Mike W

    led bulbs

    The BA9 example I used was just an example of the ones that are not sensitive to polarity so I'm not sure if these are the brightest ones you can get. When I did my interior gauges I did a lot of experimentation on bulb color, and ended up trying quite a few different options. One thing to consider is the possibility of removing the green plastic filters inside of the gauges. With the filters still installed, you will be limited to the size of the bulb you can use as the filter will restrict the bulb length. I tried both green and white bulbs with and without the filters and in the end I r
  7. Mike W

    led bulbs

    You can get LED's which are not sensitive to polarity and that makes this job a lot easier. Go to Super Bright LEDs dot com and they have a variety of these for our cars. Here's an example: https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/ba9s-ba7s/ba9s-led-bulb-1-led-ba9s-retrofit-car/3/ Hope that helps. Mike.
  8. ZCON is still a go as far as I know. Chris Karl posted a few times on Facebook this past weekend when he and some of his ZCON team were in Nashville locking things down. Not exactly sure how they are going to deal with the big crowds, especially at the opening and closing banquets, but I understand they have a plan. If I hear anything else I'll try and provide an update here. Mike.
  9. I used this exact same switch that the OP posted. I ended up mounting it on the inside of the glove box so it could not be seen and would also provide a convenient way of resetting it from inside the car in the event of it tripping. I've been running it this way for quite a number of years and have never had an issue. Hope that helps. Mike.
  10. I plan to get rid of the downdrafts and in fact already have a new stroker motor in development. Will probably be going ITB’s on this build.
  11. Charles, Good to hear that someone else has used DB Electric and with positive results / reviews. They are only the distributor in this case but they appear to be a very solid company. Phil, Yes I think you can interchange a number of the individual parts. I was considering using the new motor, solenoid, gears, etc from the new one and the casing from the original Nissan one, but I haven't made that decision yet. Having said that I do think that swap would easily work. Mike.
  12. So for some reason I have not had a lot of luck with the rebuilt aftermarket starters that are available through most of the normal outlets. I have gone through numerous ones, both the original style as well as the gear reduction style, and for some reason they just don't seem to last. The most recent episode of this was while I was visiting my brothers in the Chicago area. I had hauled my Z up to my brother's home outside of Chicago and over the course of the week, we attended numerous shows and cruise ins in the area. Was a real blast until the last day, when the starter appeared to have
  13. Here's a link to the same person in Japan that I bought mine from 4-5 years ago: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240Z-260z-280z-Harada-Intake-manifold-for-triple-Mikuni-Webers/283568679779?hash=item420602ab63:g:upIAAOSwVvBdRLCj @Rio24 I do not recall that my issue was worse with heat soak. It seemed to happen all of the time so perhaps you are dealing with something a little different. Mike.
  14. @Rio24 Yes I had a rather severe return to idle issue with my old Cannon manifold and it certainly contributed to the problem, but the manifold itself was not the only issue. The main issue with the Cannon wrt this problem is that the 3 heim joints do not line up and I found on my setup that this misalignment caused excessive friction and a very slow return to idle. I had to use rather heave return springs which really impacted the drivability of the car and so I needed to find a better solution. I ended up eliminating the center joint but doing this made the main throttle rod
  15. I can probably help you with the 123 ignition. I believe that I was one of the first to actually install and use this in a Z and did a pretty extensive write up after I completed the install. You can find my thread here: All in all I am very happy with the system although there are a few quirks you should know about before you start. A quick summary for you: 1. On install the instructions will tell you to get the engine to TDC, install the 123 and apply power, and then turn it in the direction of rotation until a little green LED lights up. In theory that should put the 123 also
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