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Mike W

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Mike W last won the day on August 23 2018

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About Mike W

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    Austin, TX

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  1. Mike W

    Very Cool Ignition Upgrade

    Really glad this helped out!! Before I used the 123 system I ran a Mallory Unilite with the MSD box but found that the tach would not operate properly with the tach signal from the MSD. I tried a couple of different adapters, both passive and active, and the active one worked best, so that's whats in my car. However, it should not be required just to get the car to run. It is only used to provide a proper signal to the tach so it works correctly. Mike.
  2. Mike W

    Very Cool Ignition Upgrade

    OK. I'm the original poster on this thread and may have been the first, or one of the firsts, to use the 123 ignition on an L6 Z engine. I also use an MSD 6AL on mine and have had no issues with it since it was originally installed. I will say that when I was first contemplating using the 123 system, there was a note I believe on the 123 Ignition site in Europe, that indicated using a multi spark ignition system with the 123 was not recommended. I ended up contacting their US rep who put me in touch with their chief engineer in Europe so I could understand more about the MSD issue. Turns out that no one had ever really done this before with the 123 system and the engineer really didn't see any reason why it wouldn't work. So I went ahead and completed the install with the 123 dizzy and the MSD 6AL. So far I have not had any real issues with this system and I would characterize this as one of the best upgrades that I have done. Makes changing the timing curves a snap. I've attached the wiring diagram I drew up when I first did the install (including wire colors). I will provide one word of caution / advice on the original install. According to the 123 install directions, once you get the dizzy physically installed, you need to turn the unit until the green light just comes on. This assumes that your engine is at TDC and this "green light calibration" is intended to get the dizzy in timing sync with the engine. In other words this calibration should result in the dizzy being at TDC with 0 degrees of advance. However, after some trial and error, I found that this initial position actually introduced an advance of about 10 degrees so when I thought I was at 0 degrees, I was really at 10 degrees BTDC. So my advice is that once you have the dizzy initially installed and "calibrated" using the green light method, load a 0 degree advance program into the 123 unit and check your timing at idle with a timing light. Ideally, it should show that you are at 0 degrees advance, but if in fact it is off (like mine was) you will need to loosen the dizzy mounting clamp and turn the dizzy until you read TDC. Once you have this set as a 0 degree baseline, you can then load in programs with the desired advance curve. Hope that helps. Let me know if you have any other questions. Mike. 123 Wiring 2_19_14.pptx
  3. Hi Mike, following your lead on the 123 ignition and want to add an ignition box.  I think the FAST I6 replaced the Crane box your using.  Would you have a wiring diagram showing how you connected your 123 ignition to the ignition box and coil?? 

    Thanks, Larry D

  4. Mike W

    1973 Rebuild

    Thanks for the nice words!! All four corners are the same wheels. 16 x 8.25. Weird size but that's what they are. Rubbing in the rear occurred on the outer lip. At 0 offset there are no issues on the inside at all. Plenty of clearance with the strut and spring. Mike.
  5. I would have to check my CD microfiche to see exactly when they changed the design of the rack, but I do believe that the Captain is correct that it was around the time of the 260 transition. As far as 260 manufacture dates, I'm pretty sure that the "small bumper" 260 ended production in 8/74 and the "large bumper" 260 went from 9/74 to 11/74. My car is a large bumper 260Z and has an 11/74 manufacture date. I believe that it was one of the last 260's to be built (for the US market). I agree with the other comments about the rack bushings. Those definitely need to be changed. If that does not completely cure the problem, you may consider changing out the inner / outer tie rod ends or perhaps source one of the new racks that have become available recently. Mike.
  6. Mike W

    1973 Rebuild

    I'm going to chime in on this as I just went through a very lengthy exercise to source a new set of tires and wheels for my car. So for reference, mine is a late manufacture 260Z (read that as 280Z). I run Eibach lowering springs and Tokiko illuminas. My present setup uses 16 x 7" Konig Rewinds (0 offset) on Michelin Pilot Sport 225-50X16. I have zero clearance problems on the front and some very minor rubbing on the rear when I go over hard bumps at speed. Rolling the rear fenders solved 90% of that problem. My only regret is that I did not do the rolling before the car was painted which made the task a lot more challenging. I would suggest that if you are going to go with a more aggressive setup that you have your fenders rolled prior to paint. My initial motivation was to get a set of real summer tires that would provide a stickier grip for summer driving. I really liked the Michelins I have on the car now, but they are more of an all season tire and I really wanted to switch to a summer tire. In discussing this with my son Alex (and for those of you who know him, his feedback will not be surprising), his input was "Hey dad, if you are going to get new tires, you may as well get a new set of wheels as well so you have the option of switching tires and wheels and achieving a different look". Extra expense aside, his feedback made sense to me so I was off to the races seeking a new set of wheels and tires for my car. On the wheels, I really wanted something that was different from the most common wheels used on the S30's (ie Watanabe's, Konig's, Enkei's, etc) but I had no idea that finding something a little out of the ordinary was going to be so difficult. The big issue here is finding a wheels with the right bolt pattern and the right offset with a width that will not interfere. For the front, I found that a 0 offset was ideal but try finding a modern, non-standard Z wheel that is visually appealing and meets all of the specs. I spent weeks looking for something suitable and frankly only came up with a couple of options and almost all of them were wider than what I was already running (either 8 or 8.25" wide) and this raised concern about clearance in the front. As it turns out, a 0 offset will clear the strut and spring and will also clear the fenders. The strut clearance is acceptable but it does not provide a lot of room for error, so in my opinion any wheels with a positive offset would potentially interfere with the strut / spring and a negative offset would likely result in fender clearance problems. The rears are a lot more forgiving on the strut side but I wanted wheels to match the front so I also decided to go with 0 offset for the rears as well. So in the end I decided on a set of XXR's in Chromium Black, 16 x 8.25, 0 offset. Unfortunately I did not find a lot of summer tires that would fit this wheel, but ended up with Pirelli Trofeo R's. They are basically track tires meant to be used on the street, and are pretty aggressive, very soft compound, and sticky as hell. I also decided that I wanted to try a staggered tire setup as I do like the visual look of slightly larger tires on the rear than on the front. Totally understand the downside of doing this (ie can't rotate, etc) but my main motivation was visual appearance along with acceptable performance. So in the end, I went with 225-50x16 up front and 245-45x16 in the rear. Finally, I am not a huge fan of black wheels and had a high level of concern about how these were going to look, but my son convinced me to go for it, which I did. Fortunately, these are powercoated in chromium black and so look more chrome than black depending on the lighting, so I am quite happy with the end result. In any case a long winded story to a simple question, but I do hope it helps those trying to find something that's a little different than the ordinary. I will say that the easiest way to solve this problem would have been to go for a set of complete custom wheels made to my exact specs, but in checking into this as an option the cost was through the roof. For what it would have cost for one custom wheel, I got a complete set of 4 with money left over to put towards my tires. So that is definitely an option, but you better have deep pockets if you plan to go that route. Here's a few pictures with the final result.
  7. Mike W

    Brake Fluid

    So to add a little controversy to this discussion, I have had raging debates with a number of my Z club members about the wisdom of using Dot 5 silicon fluid versus the more conventional Dot 3/4 fluid. To me the benefits of using a non corrosive fluid (to paint) out weighed the negatives that I had read about Dot 5, so I gave it a try about 2 years ago when I installed a big brake kit on my car. I can say for certain that I do not have poor pedal feel and in fact my pedal feels a little better than with Dot 3/4. I have not noticed any differences in stopping power, although with the big brake kit installed, my car stopped significantly better than with the stock setup. Based on my experience, I have been very happy with the Dot 5 and it also gives me some peace of mind wrt paint corrosion. Having said that, if I were tracking my car or using it in other really high performance situations, I would probably stick with Dot 3/4 as it does have better characteristics under those conditions. Having said that, switching over to Dot 5 and actually using it is a little trickier than Dot 3/4. First if you have been using Dot 3/4, you will need to completely flush your brake system as the 2 fluids are not compatible. Second, for some reason the Dot 5 fluid tends to hold onto air bubbles and so you need to be really careful when you pour it into your reservoirs or into a pressure bleeding system. I use a pressure bleeding system and will let the fluid sit in the container for a few hours to let the air bubbles escape. I will also usually bleed the brakes completely, let the car sit for 12-24 hours and then bleed again. I have found that doing it this way lets me get all of the air out of the system and results in a very good pedal feel. Hope that helps. Let the controversy begin!! Mike.
  8. Mike W

    AN-6 braided fuel line ends

    I went AN throughout my fuel system all the way back to the pump at the tank, although that is not how I started off. I knew little about these when I started the install but this site provided a ton of information on the fittings, how to assemble, etc. So if you haven't been here yet I recommend it highly. They also sell all of the parts as well: https://www.anplumbing.com/adapters/aluminum-adapters.html I'm running triples and so my install is a little different. However, when I originally started down this path, I did not want to go all the way to the tank and so I ended up cutting and flaring the OEM fuel hard line so that I could make the conversion from hard line to AN. I found this hard line adapter on the site listed above. They also make banjo fittings for AN but I believe you can also get a direct thread in to the carbs from an AN as well. Check the site above. One last thing. I hope you have deep pockets. Although I would do it again in an instant, it is not an inexpensive proposition. Just a heads up. Here's a few pictures of my install. If you have any other questions, just let me know. Mike.
  9. Mike W

    Weatherstripping Glue

    Charles, I agree that this stuff can be a little messy to use if you are not careful. What I typically do is apply adhesive to both the weatherstrip and body where it will be secured and let it dry for a couple of minutes until it is tacky. Then I put the 2 pieces together and normally get a good tight seal. Yes the adhesive remover can help to remove the adhesive both during application as well as removing old, dried up adhesive if you are replacing old weatherstripping. Here's a link to the product that I use: https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-General-Purpose-Adhesive-Cleaner/?N=5002385+3293242391&rt=rud Finally, I'm a little surprised that the adhesive is actually softening your paint. I have not had that issue at all and I can also say that the remover does not harm the paint either. I will add that my paint is a 2 stage (base + clear) and so perhaps that is the difference. Hope that helps. Mike.
  10. Mike W

    Weatherstripping Glue

    This is what I use: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/3m-super-weatherstrip-adhesive-5-oz-tube-black-08008/7720004-P?searchTerm=weatherstrip I also use the 3M weatherstrip adhesive remover to get rid of the old adhesive. Works really well and does not harm paint. Mike.
  11. Those are Appliance mesh mags and were very popular back in the day. I had a set that I bought a year or so after I purchased my Z in 74, had them refurbished locally here in Austin recently and sold them for $1000 with a set of BF Goodrich TA radials. I’m sure someone on this forum would be interested in your wheels. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  12. Mike W

    Misfiring while cruising

    I used to run the Mallory Unilite but switched to the 123 Ignition setup. A couple of comments about the Unilite / Mallory from my experience: 1. Mallory was acquired by MSD a while back and as a result the Unilite made for the L6 engine is NLA. 2. On my original Mallory setup the part number for the distributor cap was 270 and the rotor was 339. You should be able to still get these through MSD or even Amazon. 3. The electronic module in the Unilite distributor was known for being susceptible to spikes on the 12V line and could go bad as a result. Due to that I always carried a spare with me (never had to use it) and also installed a Mallory power line filter to eliminate any 12V spikes. Hope that helps and good luck with solving your problem. Mike.
  13. Mike W

    123 Ignition distributor?

    So I think that I might have been the first Z owner to try the 123 ignition on their car. You can find the write up I did in 2014 here: I still contend that it is one of the best upgrades I have done and definitely makes the job of getting your advance curve optimized extremely easy. Let me know if you have any other questions. Mike.
  14. A very similar thing happened to me about a year ago. All of a sudden the car had no power and did not sound right. Traced it down to the #4 cylinder and was hoping for something electrical, but no cigar. Ended up pulling the head only to find the seat on the #4 intake had come loose and was not allowing the valve to fully close. Brought it to my machinist and we ended up replacing all of the seats, many of which were the original brass ones installed at the factory. His theory is that with the ethanol based fuel and the higher burn temps, the brass seats were not designed for this and as a result they loosen over time and eventually fail. There was another one that he found that was about to do the same thing. Replaced them all with steel and so far no problem.
  15. Did you ever get anything back from Oliver at Z Specialties or Charlie at Zedd Findings? Mike.

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