Jump to content

Mike W

Members
  • Content Count

    438
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    5

Mike W last won the day on August 23 2018

Mike W had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

114 Excellent

7 Followers

About Mike W

  • Rank
    Registered User

Contact

  • Map Location
    Austin, TX

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    260z

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Thanks Blue for the compliments!! My engine bay is actually toned down a little now from the way it was in Memphis. I've replaced my valve cover with one that is powder coated black, moved the breather to the back of the cover, and routed my wires around the front of the cover rather than over it. You see more of the engine that way and given that its black its easier on the eyes!! Haha! Here's an update picture.
  2. I was one of the first people to use the 123 ignition on a Z and I have been running this setup since 2015. I concur that the setup and install instructions are lacking and I too experienced an advanced timing situation after the initial "LED Install" procedure but unfortunately did not realize this for quite some time so I was running more advanced that I originally thought. Fortunately nothing catastrophic happened to my engine and I was able to correct this by checking the initial settings with a timing light. Although the 123 people indicated in their emails to the OP that timing should always be checked with a light, I have not seen that written in any of their instructions although it is possible that I might have missed it. One other issue that I have had with the 123 ignition is that periodically my car will refuse to start or it does start but does not run correctly (misfires) and the only thing that solves the issue is to replace the rotor. I was never able to completely figure out the cause of this or why the rotor just seemed to randomly "go bad" until I read through this thread and subsequently did some additional research. As it turns out, I also run an MSD with my ignition and when I was first considering the 123 distributor, I found a warning on their website that said not to use the 123 system with an MSD ignition. I did not understand the engineering reasoning behind this so I contacted the company directly to find out a little more. Their engineers told me that they already had customers using their product with an MSD with no issues being reported and so they really didn't seem to know why that warning was there. They basically told me that it should work without issues. Well fast forward to today and after a little more research I found the root cause of the problem. I happened to stumble on a Triumph TR site where the OP had a similar problem on a 123 ignition although in this case the rotor was actually burned. This led me to another thread on a forum called Pelican Parts and they apparently specialize in parts for older European cars. Well as it turns out, the engineers at 123 chose a readily available, off the shelf distributor where they could house their electronics and just change the drive mechanism to work with numerous different cars. So the cap and rotor, and I suspect even the dizzy body itself was very widely used in VW's, BMW's, Volvo's, etc of the late 60's going through the early 80's. Well during this time, the EU apparently was focused on RFI suppression in newer cars and mandated that auto electronics include RFI suppression hardware. I do not know exactly when this was mandated but I believe it was sometime in the 70's. Well believe it or not this mandate resulted in the inclusion of a resistor in the distributor rotor that sits between the center contact and the end contact. What I learned from the Pelican Parts forum (where a lot of these guys use this same cap and rotor setup as the 123 ignition as that's what the car originally came with) but they have also upgraded to MSD. Unfortunately these rotors with the internal resistors were designed and used at a time when ignition systems were not as powerful as today's systems, including MSD, and so the higher output power of the MSD essentially burns out the resistors over time. I must admit that I thought this seemed rather absurd as I had never heard of such a thing, but I happened to have a number of rotors that had "gone bad" so I decided to do my own checking. Well sure enough when I checked continuity between the center and end conductors, it was a total open! I really couldn't believe what I was seeing so I used a Dremel to cut away at the epoxy and sure enough buried under the epoxy and between the 2 conductors was a burned out resistor. The solution that I also found on the Pelican Parts forum was the Dremel out the epoxy and resistor and simply solder in a 12 gauge piece of wire to replace the resistor, and then simply use JB weld or some other suitable epoxy to seal it back up. You can find more info about this here: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/596559-msd-rotor-modification-detail.html Ironically, 123 Ignition now also sells a modified rotor that replaces the resistor with a wire: https://123ignitionusa.com/oem-rotor-modified-no-resistor-for-all-4-and-6-cyl-123-applications/ $45 for a rotor seemed a little excessive to me so I purchased a couple of Bosch rotors (p/n 04008) and did the mod myself. A little tedious but definitely better than paying $45. So after 4+ years of dealing with this random problem I believe it is finally solved. I will also say that despite some of the startup issues that I and others have had with the 123 system, I am very satisfied with the end result and would not hesitate to use this again. Fortunately my experience with the company and the product was a little more positive than the OP. I hope this helps others that may have experienced the same issue and that I've saved you from pulling your hair out as well. Mike.
  3. I was one of the earliest users of the 123 ignition in a Z car and so have quite a bit of experience with it over the years that I have used it. I can also tell you that I had a similar advance problem at idle with my initial install. If I remember correctly, and according to the install instructions, everything needs to be at TDC on the engine. You install the 123 distributor, apply power, and turn it until an LED turns on and that's where you are supposed to lock the distributor in place. However, after some trial and error, I figured out that at idle I was at about 30 degrees advanced, and this was with a flat 0 degree advance programmed into the 123 distributor. I ultimately concluded that the distributor was not rotated to the proper point for a 0 degree advance, despite the fact that it had been installed properly (with the LED) as per the instructions. So what I ended up doing was unlocking the distributor, ensuring it was programmed for a 0 degree advance (up to about 1500 RPM's), and rotated the distributor until I was at 0 degrees as measured with a timing light. I then programmed in some additional advance at idle (I believe about 12 degrees) and double checked it with a timing light to ensure it agreed with the programmed values. So for some reason the LED install instructions did not work in my application, but by setting the initial timing of the 123 like you would a normal distributor, I was able to get it to work as expected. And the ease of changing timing curves is awesome. In any case, hope that helps. If you have any other questions on this just let me know. Mike.
  4. For the last few weeks every time I try to open the mobile app I get an "Invalid License" error message. It continues to say "This forum is currently not available on this app. Please contact the forum administrator." Is anyone else having this problem? Mike.
  5. Miked, I would really like to see those after-installation photos of your sound system.  I'm thinking of doing something similar.  Thanks.

    My 240Z.jpg

  6. Really glad this helped out!! Before I used the 123 system I ran a Mallory Unilite with the MSD box but found that the tach would not operate properly with the tach signal from the MSD. I tried a couple of different adapters, both passive and active, and the active one worked best, so that's whats in my car. However, it should not be required just to get the car to run. It is only used to provide a proper signal to the tach so it works correctly. Mike.
  7. OK. I'm the original poster on this thread and may have been the first, or one of the firsts, to use the 123 ignition on an L6 Z engine. I also use an MSD 6AL on mine and have had no issues with it since it was originally installed. I will say that when I was first contemplating using the 123 system, there was a note I believe on the 123 Ignition site in Europe, that indicated using a multi spark ignition system with the 123 was not recommended. I ended up contacting their US rep who put me in touch with their chief engineer in Europe so I could understand more about the MSD issue. Turns out that no one had ever really done this before with the 123 system and the engineer really didn't see any reason why it wouldn't work. So I went ahead and completed the install with the 123 dizzy and the MSD 6AL. So far I have not had any real issues with this system and I would characterize this as one of the best upgrades that I have done. Makes changing the timing curves a snap. I've attached the wiring diagram I drew up when I first did the install (including wire colors). I will provide one word of caution / advice on the original install. According to the 123 install directions, once you get the dizzy physically installed, you need to turn the unit until the green light just comes on. This assumes that your engine is at TDC and this "green light calibration" is intended to get the dizzy in timing sync with the engine. In other words this calibration should result in the dizzy being at TDC with 0 degrees of advance. However, after some trial and error, I found that this initial position actually introduced an advance of about 10 degrees so when I thought I was at 0 degrees, I was really at 10 degrees BTDC. So my advice is that once you have the dizzy initially installed and "calibrated" using the green light method, load a 0 degree advance program into the 123 unit and check your timing at idle with a timing light. Ideally, it should show that you are at 0 degrees advance, but if in fact it is off (like mine was) you will need to loosen the dizzy mounting clamp and turn the dizzy until you read TDC. Once you have this set as a 0 degree baseline, you can then load in programs with the desired advance curve. Hope that helps. Let me know if you have any other questions. Mike. 123 Wiring 2_19_14.pptx
  8. Hi Mike, following your lead on the 123 ignition and want to add an ignition box.  I think the FAST I6 replaced the Crane box your using.  Would you have a wiring diagram showing how you connected your 123 ignition to the ignition box and coil?? 

    Thanks, Larry D

  9. Thanks for the nice words!! All four corners are the same wheels. 16 x 8.25. Weird size but that's what they are. Rubbing in the rear occurred on the outer lip. At 0 offset there are no issues on the inside at all. Plenty of clearance with the strut and spring. Mike.
  10. I would have to check my CD microfiche to see exactly when they changed the design of the rack, but I do believe that the Captain is correct that it was around the time of the 260 transition. As far as 260 manufacture dates, I'm pretty sure that the "small bumper" 260 ended production in 8/74 and the "large bumper" 260 went from 9/74 to 11/74. My car is a large bumper 260Z and has an 11/74 manufacture date. I believe that it was one of the last 260's to be built (for the US market). I agree with the other comments about the rack bushings. Those definitely need to be changed. If that does not completely cure the problem, you may consider changing out the inner / outer tie rod ends or perhaps source one of the new racks that have become available recently. Mike.
  11. I'm going to chime in on this as I just went through a very lengthy exercise to source a new set of tires and wheels for my car. So for reference, mine is a late manufacture 260Z (read that as 280Z). I run Eibach lowering springs and Tokiko illuminas. My present setup uses 16 x 7" Konig Rewinds (0 offset) on Michelin Pilot Sport 225-50X16. I have zero clearance problems on the front and some very minor rubbing on the rear when I go over hard bumps at speed. Rolling the rear fenders solved 90% of that problem. My only regret is that I did not do the rolling before the car was painted which made the task a lot more challenging. I would suggest that if you are going to go with a more aggressive setup that you have your fenders rolled prior to paint. My initial motivation was to get a set of real summer tires that would provide a stickier grip for summer driving. I really liked the Michelins I have on the car now, but they are more of an all season tire and I really wanted to switch to a summer tire. In discussing this with my son Alex (and for those of you who know him, his feedback will not be surprising), his input was "Hey dad, if you are going to get new tires, you may as well get a new set of wheels as well so you have the option of switching tires and wheels and achieving a different look". Extra expense aside, his feedback made sense to me so I was off to the races seeking a new set of wheels and tires for my car. On the wheels, I really wanted something that was different from the most common wheels used on the S30's (ie Watanabe's, Konig's, Enkei's, etc) but I had no idea that finding something a little out of the ordinary was going to be so difficult. The big issue here is finding a wheels with the right bolt pattern and the right offset with a width that will not interfere. For the front, I found that a 0 offset was ideal but try finding a modern, non-standard Z wheel that is visually appealing and meets all of the specs. I spent weeks looking for something suitable and frankly only came up with a couple of options and almost all of them were wider than what I was already running (either 8 or 8.25" wide) and this raised concern about clearance in the front. As it turns out, a 0 offset will clear the strut and spring and will also clear the fenders. The strut clearance is acceptable but it does not provide a lot of room for error, so in my opinion any wheels with a positive offset would potentially interfere with the strut / spring and a negative offset would likely result in fender clearance problems. The rears are a lot more forgiving on the strut side but I wanted wheels to match the front so I also decided to go with 0 offset for the rears as well. So in the end I decided on a set of XXR's in Chromium Black, 16 x 8.25, 0 offset. Unfortunately I did not find a lot of summer tires that would fit this wheel, but ended up with Pirelli Trofeo R's. They are basically track tires meant to be used on the street, and are pretty aggressive, very soft compound, and sticky as hell. I also decided that I wanted to try a staggered tire setup as I do like the visual look of slightly larger tires on the rear than on the front. Totally understand the downside of doing this (ie can't rotate, etc) but my main motivation was visual appearance along with acceptable performance. So in the end, I went with 225-50x16 up front and 245-45x16 in the rear. Finally, I am not a huge fan of black wheels and had a high level of concern about how these were going to look, but my son convinced me to go for it, which I did. Fortunately, these are powercoated in chromium black and so look more chrome than black depending on the lighting, so I am quite happy with the end result. In any case a long winded story to a simple question, but I do hope it helps those trying to find something that's a little different than the ordinary. I will say that the easiest way to solve this problem would have been to go for a set of complete custom wheels made to my exact specs, but in checking into this as an option the cost was through the roof. For what it would have cost for one custom wheel, I got a complete set of 4 with money left over to put towards my tires. So that is definitely an option, but you better have deep pockets if you plan to go that route. Here's a few pictures with the final result.
  12. So to add a little controversy to this discussion, I have had raging debates with a number of my Z club members about the wisdom of using Dot 5 silicon fluid versus the more conventional Dot 3/4 fluid. To me the benefits of using a non corrosive fluid (to paint) out weighed the negatives that I had read about Dot 5, so I gave it a try about 2 years ago when I installed a big brake kit on my car. I can say for certain that I do not have poor pedal feel and in fact my pedal feels a little better than with Dot 3/4. I have not noticed any differences in stopping power, although with the big brake kit installed, my car stopped significantly better than with the stock setup. Based on my experience, I have been very happy with the Dot 5 and it also gives me some peace of mind wrt paint corrosion. Having said that, if I were tracking my car or using it in other really high performance situations, I would probably stick with Dot 3/4 as it does have better characteristics under those conditions. Having said that, switching over to Dot 5 and actually using it is a little trickier than Dot 3/4. First if you have been using Dot 3/4, you will need to completely flush your brake system as the 2 fluids are not compatible. Second, for some reason the Dot 5 fluid tends to hold onto air bubbles and so you need to be really careful when you pour it into your reservoirs or into a pressure bleeding system. I use a pressure bleeding system and will let the fluid sit in the container for a few hours to let the air bubbles escape. I will also usually bleed the brakes completely, let the car sit for 12-24 hours and then bleed again. I have found that doing it this way lets me get all of the air out of the system and results in a very good pedal feel. Hope that helps. Let the controversy begin!! Mike.
  13. I went AN throughout my fuel system all the way back to the pump at the tank, although that is not how I started off. I knew little about these when I started the install but this site provided a ton of information on the fittings, how to assemble, etc. So if you haven't been here yet I recommend it highly. They also sell all of the parts as well: https://www.anplumbing.com/adapters/aluminum-adapters.html I'm running triples and so my install is a little different. However, when I originally started down this path, I did not want to go all the way to the tank and so I ended up cutting and flaring the OEM fuel hard line so that I could make the conversion from hard line to AN. I found this hard line adapter on the site listed above. They also make banjo fittings for AN but I believe you can also get a direct thread in to the carbs from an AN as well. Check the site above. One last thing. I hope you have deep pockets. Although I would do it again in an instant, it is not an inexpensive proposition. Just a heads up. Here's a few pictures of my install. If you have any other questions, just let me know. Mike.
  14. Charles, I agree that this stuff can be a little messy to use if you are not careful. What I typically do is apply adhesive to both the weatherstrip and body where it will be secured and let it dry for a couple of minutes until it is tacky. Then I put the 2 pieces together and normally get a good tight seal. Yes the adhesive remover can help to remove the adhesive both during application as well as removing old, dried up adhesive if you are replacing old weatherstripping. Here's a link to the product that I use: https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-General-Purpose-Adhesive-Cleaner/?N=5002385+3293242391&rt=rud Finally, I'm a little surprised that the adhesive is actually softening your paint. I have not had that issue at all and I can also say that the remover does not harm the paint either. I will add that my paint is a 2 stage (base + clear) and so perhaps that is the difference. Hope that helps. Mike.
  15. This is what I use: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/3m-super-weatherstrip-adhesive-5-oz-tube-black-08008/7720004-P?searchTerm=weatherstrip I also use the 3M weatherstrip adhesive remover to get rid of the old adhesive. Works really well and does not harm paint. Mike.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.