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Mike W

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Mike W last won the day on January 27

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About Mike W

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    Austin, TX

My Z Cars

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  1. Mike W

    Weatherstripping Glue

    Charles, I agree that this stuff can be a little messy to use if you are not careful. What I typically do is apply adhesive to both the weatherstrip and body where it will be secured and let it dry for a couple of minutes until it is tacky. Then I put the 2 pieces together and normally get a good tight seal. Yes the adhesive remover can help to remove the adhesive both during application as well as removing old, dried up adhesive if you are replacing old weatherstripping. Here's a link to the product that I use: https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-General-Purpose-Adhesive-Cleaner/?N=5002385+3293242391&rt=rud Finally, I'm a little surprised that the adhesive is actually softening your paint. I have not had that issue at all and I can also say that the remover does not harm the paint either. I will add that my paint is a 2 stage (base + clear) and so perhaps that is the difference. Hope that helps. Mike.
  2. Mike W

    Weatherstripping Glue

    This is what I use: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/3m-super-weatherstrip-adhesive-5-oz-tube-black-08008/7720004-P?searchTerm=weatherstrip I also use the 3M weatherstrip adhesive remover to get rid of the old adhesive. Works really well and does not harm paint. Mike.
  3. Those are Appliance mesh mags and were very popular back in the day. I had a set that I bought a year or so after I purchased my Z in 74, had them refurbished locally here in Austin recently and sold them for $1000 with a set of BF Goodrich TA radials. I’m sure someone on this forum would be interested in your wheels. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  4. Mike W

    Misfiring while cruising

    I used to run the Mallory Unilite but switched to the 123 Ignition setup. A couple of comments about the Unilite / Mallory from my experience: 1. Mallory was acquired by MSD a while back and as a result the Unilite made for the L6 engine is NLA. 2. On my original Mallory setup the part number for the distributor cap was 270 and the rotor was 339. You should be able to still get these through MSD or even Amazon. 3. The electronic module in the Unilite distributor was known for being susceptible to spikes on the 12V line and could go bad as a result. Due to that I always carried a spare with me (never had to use it) and also installed a Mallory power line filter to eliminate any 12V spikes. Hope that helps and good luck with solving your problem. Mike.
  5. Mike W

    123 Ignition distributor?

    So I think that I might have been the first Z owner to try the 123 ignition on their car. You can find the write up I did in 2014 here: I still contend that it is one of the best upgrades I have done and definitely makes the job of getting your advance curve optimized extremely easy. Let me know if you have any other questions. Mike.
  6. A very similar thing happened to me about a year ago. All of a sudden the car had no power and did not sound right. Traced it down to the #4 cylinder and was hoping for something electrical, but no cigar. Ended up pulling the head only to find the seat on the #4 intake had come loose and was not allowing the valve to fully close. Brought it to my machinist and we ended up replacing all of the seats, many of which were the original brass ones installed at the factory. His theory is that with the ethanol based fuel and the higher burn temps, the brass seats were not designed for this and as a result they loosen over time and eventually fail. There was another one that he found that was about to do the same thing. Replaced them all with steel and so far no problem.
  7. Did you ever get anything back from Oliver at Z Specialties or Charlie at Zedd Findings? Mike.
  8. I managed to source these for my Z (74 1/2 260 so the same as Jai's as far as the bumpers are concerned) but they were almost impossible to find. I believe that Oliver from Z Specialities sourced a set for me (including the rubber center piece) for the front and Charlie Osborne from Zedd Findings in Canada managed to find the rears. I was told by both when I ordered them that they could not predict when they would arrive and it was possible that they would never show up as supply on this was very limited. This was also back in the 2013 timeframe and so the supply situation is probably worse now. Regardless I would give both of those places a call and see if they might be able to help you out. Hope that helps. Mike.
  9. There are actually a couple of these for sale on eBay. One with the same part number that HS30-H mentions in his post: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Z-fuel-pump-mount-mounting-bracket-17033-E4200-USED/382363930288?hash=item5906aa8eb0:g:zwQAAOSwkLhaG5cd&vxp=mtr And another that is identical to the one on my late manufacture 260Z: https://www.ebay.com/itm/77-78-Datsun-280Z-fuel-pump-bracket-OEM-used-painted-clean/382374963056?hash=item590752e770:g:RAEAAOSwHNxaTa88&vxp=mtr Ironically both from the same seller. Looks like Nissan changed the design of this over the years. Mike.
  10. Mike W

    1976 280Z Restoration Project

    As I recall when I replaced the U Joints on my half shafts as well as the driveshaft, the C clips are actually installed on the U joints themselves (on the inside of the yoke) and so I don't really understand the need for a groove to be cut. As long as the U Joints are of the same size I believe you should be able to just install new ones. Perhaps I'm missing something but this seems like it would work to me. Does anyone know if the U Joint sizes are the same between the serviceable driveshafts and the newer non-serviceable ones? Mike.
  11. Mike W

    WTB: Close ratio 5 sp trans and Engine Belly Pan

    Guy, I consider my son and I pretty good mechanics, but installing an LSD and getting all of the preloads and backlash correct is probably out of our element. Not to mention that I probably don't have all of the right tools either. I would definitely have it installed and setup by a pro. And as @7tooZmentions will preserve your warranty as well. Also, and I am far from an expert on this, but there are also different types of LSD's depending on the kind of driving that you are going to do. The Quaife is based on a gear design and is a 1 way LSD meaning that it locks under acceleration and free wheels during braking. This was recommended for basic spirited street driving which is why I went that way. The OS Giken is a clutch based design and can be configured as either 1 way, 1.5 way, or 2 way where the 1.5 and 2 configuration provides either moderate or full lock under braking which is useful for tracking or drifting. On the 180 vs 200 I decided that seeing I was going to change anyway and do have more HP than a stock setup, the 200 made sense and it wasn't really any more money except for the fact that I had to change the mustache bar as well. It in end it was probably a bit of an overkill for my application but I should never have to worry about it again. If you've got more questions on the different types of diffs, etc I'd recommend talking to Mike at Whitehead. He was extremely helpful and informative when I was in the decision process and definitely knows the S30 platform. Hope that helps. Mike.
  12. Mike W

    WTB: Close ratio 5 sp trans and Engine Belly Pan

    Guy, Not sure yet on ZCON. It's a long drive from Austin especially hauling an enclosed trailer. I'm also waiting to see if my son can get the time off too. Will keep you posted. Tom, I 100% agree with you on the benefits of the LSD. I was fully expecting more traction on acceleration especially moving to 3.9 from stock. But the improvement in handling was a very pleasant side effect. My car handled pretty well with the old 180, but now it just feels totally planted going through the curves. Really happy that I finally did this. Mike.
  13. Mike W

    WTB: Close ratio 5 sp trans and Engine Belly Pan

    Guy, The person that I worked with directly on this is Mike Hanson. Mike Hanson Manager, Whitehead Performance 416-665-2220 Their website is here: https://whiteheadperformance.com/shop/ They have lots of stuff for our Z's (and other cars). Let me know if you need anything else. Mike.
  14. Mike W

    WTB: Close ratio 5 sp trans and Engine Belly Pan

    As I said it was not cheap, but the diff was completely rebuilt with new bearings and everything set up correctly. It also included a brand new Quaife LSD, which by itself was $1300. Total shipped to my home in Texas came in around $3K. That did not include the mustache bar setup that I purchased separately from T3. The stock half shafts that I had for my R180 did not have the flanges on the diff end which the R200 requires. Instead they had a spline that slid into the diff and was secured with a bolt that went through the splined shaft and bolted into the diff. The R200 uses a flange attachment as opposed to this spline arrangement and so that needed to be changed on the half shafts. I ended up having a spare set of half shafts that had the correct flanges and I rebuilt those while I was waiting for the diff to arrive. Whitehead included the proper flanges and so if I did not have the spare set I would have had to simply change out the spline attachment to the flange arrangement on my existing half shafts. My primary motivation for doing this was a clunking that I had in the rear end. When I rebuilt the rear end about 5 years ago I replaced the lower diff mount and also installed an RT mount assuming that this would take care of the clunking problem. Unfortunately it did not. I spent hours under the car looking for other culprits but could not locate anything that appeared to be problematic. During this same rebuild I had also rebuilt the half shafts including new U joints and did the same with the drive shaft, all new bushings in the control arms, etc so there really wasn't much else that could have been wrong. I ultimately concluded that the old R180 diff itself, which had over 200K miles on it was simply worn out, so I decided to go with this rebuilt one from Whitehead. Clunk completely gone! Let me know if you need any other info. I will say that if you do decide to go the T3 route, we ran into a few install issues with this setup because of some confusion with the parts they supplied with the kit. I won't go into all of the details here, but if anyone needs to know this info I'll be glad to elaborate. Mike.
  15. Mike W

    WTB: Close ratio 5 sp trans and Engine Belly Pan

    I recently purchased a fully rebuilt R200 3.90 with Quaife LSD from Whitehead Performance in Canada and all I can say is that it is an awesome upgrade from the R180 that I had. The people at Whitehead were also great to work with and provided me with all of the info I needed to complete the install. I also went with the T3 mustache bar setup. Not the least expensive way to go but very happy with this upgrade. Wish I had done it when I rebuilt the rear end on my car a number of years ago. Hope that helps. Mike.

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