blodi

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blodi last won the day on December 6 2017

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About blodi

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    Farmington Hills, MI
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    Designer-Ford Motor Company

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  1. Do you have the ballast resistor hooked up with your setup?
  2. Yeah, that's kind of what I went through back in August.....I had the dizzy installed and bypassed the resistor as instructed...my tach was all bouncy at higher rpm. So I tried hooking the resistor back up and that's when it fried the ignition module on the dizzy. Maybe I need a different coil? I thought I had the correct ohm version...but now I forget what I have in there. I'll have to check.
  3. Yeah, the problem is I can't get my tach out because of my full dash cap blocking it in. Sounds like some people have issues with the swap and some don't : https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/122001-240z-tach-issues-with-280zx-distributor/ Im wondering if there is any dizzy out there that will work with a 240z tach without issue...other than a stock 240z dizzy. Aftermarket?
  4. This is what I used... Car ran great. But the tach was just bouncy when I got on it at all.
  5. Sorry, I meant that I had a 280zx dizzy that I was installing. I did try it with my 240 tach and it's fine until about 3K and then will bounce like crazy.
  6. 5 months later.... I finally got around to trying to install the 280z tach here while it’s winter. Quickly realized I can’t remove my stock tach as my car has a full dash cap on it and blocks the tach from coming out. I don’t want to force anything and break the cap or tach. So...anyone know of a aftermarket dizzy that will work with a stock 240z tach? I haven’t searched yet. Also...anyone need a 280z tach or rebuilt dizzy? 😀
  7. I installed the new dizzy and got the timing all set. Took it for a spin Friday afternoon and it ran great and pulled hard! But, once you got over about 3.5K, the tach would start bouncing all over the place. So I stopped for gas and reconnected the resistor in an attempt to fix that. Well, I started the car and it died after about 10 seconds. Long story short, I fried the ignition module. Had to get a ride from a friend back home and got the old dizzy and installed it and got the car home. So, I ordered a new ignition module and I guess I'll have to look for a 280z tach to install.
  8. Found a source for both parts and ordered them up today. I did get the car started with the new dizzy last night and adjusted the timing, but realized I couldn't tighten it down with the 240 mount/plate.
  9. Just realized I also need the 280ZX dizzy mount. Do I also need the adjustment plate? Anyone have these?
  10. I checked my timing before swapping the dizzy's out. 20 at idle and 37 at 3K+ So, I guess I did only have 17 degrees in the old one. 280zx dizzy is in but I need to adjust the timing tonight and go take her for a test spin.
  11. So it looks like I'll be going from 24 degress of centrifugal advance down to 17. Since the webers don't use vacuum advance, that's what I get. So I'll probably have to add a bit more timing to it overall to get the same full advanced timing at 3K+.
  12. Ok. Thanks! I also noticed that the dizzy I got has the e12-92 module on it. But it looks like this is fine as long as I only make connections to the B and C terminals. https://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/116513-e12-92-e12-80-a.html
  13. Ok thanks! Do you run the ballast resistor too? I didn't think about the cap and rotor. I'll check tonight and see if mine fit by chance.
  14. 280ZX dizzy is here. Looking at the wiring diagrams I found. Do I need to switch over to a 3.0 Ohm coil or can I stick with my current 1.5 Ohm and Ballast Resistor setup? Anyone know? I remember trying to delete the resistor and use a 3.0 ohm coil before and the tach would go wacky at mid-high rpms.
  15. The car really didn't want to start/idle well with the gap opened up to .030" So I put the #1 screw back in and tightened it back up. 280ZX dizzy shows up tomorrow so I'll try that out.