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blodi

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blodi last won the day on December 6 2017

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About blodi

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  • Map Location
    Farmington Hills, MI
  • Occupation
    Designer-Ford Motor Company

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    Former Owner
    Z fanatic but no car right now

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  1. I installed the new dizzy and got the timing all set. Took it for a spin Friday afternoon and it ran great and pulled hard! But, once you got over about 3.5K, the tach would start bouncing all over the place. So I stopped for gas and reconnected the resistor in an attempt to fix that. Well, I started the car and it died after about 10 seconds. Long story short, I fried the ignition module. Had to get a ride from a friend back home and got the old dizzy and installed it and got the car home. So, I ordered a new ignition module and I guess I'll have to look for a 280z tach to install.
  2. Found a source for both parts and ordered them up today. I did get the car started with the new dizzy last night and adjusted the timing, but realized I couldn't tighten it down with the 240 mount/plate.
  3. Just realized I also need the 280ZX dizzy mount. Do I also need the adjustment plate? Anyone have these?
  4. I checked my timing before swapping the dizzy's out. 20 at idle and 37 at 3K+ So, I guess I did only have 17 degrees in the old one. 280zx dizzy is in but I need to adjust the timing tonight and go take her for a test spin.
  5. So it looks like I'll be going from 24 degress of centrifugal advance down to 17. Since the webers don't use vacuum advance, that's what I get. So I'll probably have to add a bit more timing to it overall to get the same full advanced timing at 3K+.
  6. Ok. Thanks! I also noticed that the dizzy I got has the e12-92 module on it. But it looks like this is fine as long as I only make connections to the B and C terminals. https://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/116513-e12-92-e12-80-a.html
  7. Ok thanks! Do you run the ballast resistor too? I didn't think about the cap and rotor. I'll check tonight and see if mine fit by chance.
  8. 280ZX dizzy is here. Looking at the wiring diagrams I found. Do I need to switch over to a 3.0 Ohm coil or can I stick with my current 1.5 Ohm and Ballast Resistor setup? Anyone know? I remember trying to delete the resistor and use a 3.0 ohm coil before and the tach would go wacky at mid-high rpms.
  9. The car really didn't want to start/idle well with the gap opened up to .030" So I put the #1 screw back in and tightened it back up. 280ZX dizzy shows up tomorrow so I'll try that out.
  10. OK, I marked this up so its a bit more clear... Dizzy by blodi, on Flickr 1 and 2 hold the pertronix plate (4) to the dizzy plate (6) and it cannot move around from there. I can move 3 around a bit, but it can't move 4 at all. 5 is fixed to 4 with rivets. 7 and 8 both did need to be snugged down a bit. What I did last night is removed 1, adjusted the gap and tightened down 2. Not sure if it will hold in position with just #2 in place, but it allowed me to open the gap.
  11. Yeah, but the two other countersunk screws prevent the plate from moving at all. Its' fixed in position by those two. I removed one of them and adjusted the gap. I'll see how it runs Friday as I'm bring the car in for a car show here at work.
  12. Ok. So the sensor to rotor gap is tiny...less than half what it should be. I see no way of adjusting it either on this setup. The two counter sunk screws hold the pertronix into position and there is nothing slotted to allow adjustment. I can just use one of the screws and that way angle it to adjust the gap.
  13. All good points....I'll inspect tonight. Any idea on the gap setting? I just installed a pertronix like a month ago on another car of mine, but probably didn't save the little clear "feeler gauge" they send with it.
  14. Try it now....should be fixed. In any case...ordered the new dizzy.
  15. Is this play “normal” in the dizzy? IMG_3974 by blodi, on Flickr
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