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charliekwin

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charliekwin last won the day on September 22 2016

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About charliekwin

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    SoCal

My Z Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    280z
  • About My Cars
    1987 280z, 2007 G35 sedan 6MT

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  1. charliekwin

    Sway bars

    I have the ST kit on mine, and have no complaints, though I have a 280. When ordering time comes, check Summit Racing. I've found they tend to have the lowest prices (or very close), and free shipping over $99 is definitely a money saver on large items.
  2. charliekwin

    Installation of Dynamat or similar material

    My suggestion is a combination of a product like Dynamat plus a layer of foam-backed mass-loaded vinyl. Dynamat helps to reduce vibration in the panels, and does not need to be applied over the entire panel. About 25%, and mostly on the large, flat areas will do the job. MLV helps to block transmission of sound. I've found it's especially effective for road noise.
  3. Busy weekend with family in town and kiddo's birthday (by the way, who opens a kid's restaurant and thinks a creepy anthropomorphized rat is a good choice for a mascot!?), so I only had a chance to start blocking a couple of panels. Still, that was enough to temper a bit the enthusiasm from last weekend: some panels are blocking nicely, some look like they'll need just a bit of filler, and probably everything will need end up needing another coat of primer. I also decided to upgrade my gun. Couldn't justify a really expensive one, but I think I'll get better results with this thing. And now I need a new air compressor. If you give a mouse a cookie....
  4. I gotta stop looking at car pictures and actually do some work this week, but I'm pretty fond of the slate blues right now.
  5. Started down the rabbit hole. Car was originally 510 blue. Looking at pictures is a bad way to judge paint color, but sometimes I like it enough: Sometimes I think it looks a little too baby blue: Especially compared to, say, this one, which was repainted in Nassau Blue (a GM color): Or this one, posted here back in 2011: I quite like the kind of slate-ish shade to the blue in the last one. Then again, I would prefer to stick with single stage paint since I think I'll probably screw up base/clear; so maybe this is just wheel spinning. ETA: Talking myself into a color change. Already have the doors off and glass out. May as well go for it. Something in the neighborhood of the last Z, Porsche's Oslo Blue, or this Benz. The hatch interior and engine bay won't match, but won't be wildly different and could be painted later anyway.
  6. No idea, actually. John (the local SPI guy) referred me to another guy in Orange County for color, but I'm taking recommendations: ease of spraying and reasonable cost are my two main criteria right now (the body work is looking good and I don't want to fork it up now!!). Speaking of color: I always planned on keeping it the original 510 blue, but yeesh, now I'm starting to reconsider....
  7. Not sure about epoxy either, but even at quite high temps of ~100 degrees it sprayed nicely. This particular primer is urethane based. I'm planning to shoot a single-stage urethane color. Haven't picked it up yet, but if it behaves similarly to the primer, I'll need the retarder.
  8. Yup, strained and using the right tip; it's heat and my lack of speed. If I were to do it again, I would put some retarder in the paint. SPI says 30-45 minute pot life at 75 degrees. It's been 85-90 the last couple days, and I had less than half that: the first coat would go on fine, but it started slowing down by the time I got to the second. Something I'm keeping in mind when it's time for color.
  9. charliekwin

    1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build

    That's my solution to things too!
  10. Labor Day? Yeah it was! My goal was to get primer on everything this weekend. Mission accomplished. Two of the lessons learned along the way: 1. Shooting high build is a whole different ballgame than epoxy or regular paint. I tested on the underside of the hood on Saturday and thought I had it figured out. Nope. The SPI primer sets fast and it wasn't until the end of things that I started getting the hang of it. A panel or two is fine, but I don't really want to do the whole thing again if I can help avoid it! 2. There's no such thing as a one-day project. (To be fair, this is a lesson I've learned many times. It's just that I've forgotten it just as many.) Saturday was prep day: scuffed everything and fixed a couple of dents that I missed before. And shot the air dam with adhesion promoter and epoxy. Sunday I did the shell. You can see some striping on the roof where I had problems with the gun. Regardless, really happy: the stripes will sand out, but the roof is flat! The rear looks pretty good. I even got most of the swage line on the quarter. Came out better than I expected. Monday was everything else. More problems with the gun left some thin areas in the paint and I almost left it alone...then came to my senses and put everything back in the tent to spray another coat. Again, really happy. I need to do some minor touchup on the headlight bucket seams, the top of the driver side door, and on the hood, but again, everything came out straighter than I thought it might. Need to get some spot putty and guide coat and start blocking, but I don't think it'll need much. Honestly, I could put color on it now and it would exceed the expectations/goals that I had before I started. I'm getting a beer!
  11. charliekwin

    Failed smog test

    I had similar numbers when I got mine. There were a couple easily identified and fixed problems, but ultimately it was the throttle valve switch that was responsible in my case (https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/51531-sanity-check-on-280z-fi-tests/). I didn't find it until I ran through the tests in the EFI bible, which is where I should've started in the first place. Only takes a few minutes to go through them all. Do that.
  12. Next steps, following the advice of my paint guy: To this point, everything's that's been sanded was done by hand with 80 grit Scuff up the untouched areas of epoxy with 180 or a red scotchbrite pad (I should have done that while I was already working on the filler, but oh well) Wax and grease remover, dry, then tack rag, then 2 or 3 coats of primer (using SPI's regular 2K primer) Say quiet prayer that I did a good job on the body work, and my panels all look decent enough Block sand as needed, probably 220->320->400 I'm planning to shoot a single stage color, but don't have that yet, so that's as far as my next steps go. But, according to SPI, I should be able to shoot the color over the primer without a sealer or any additional steps.
  13. Woohoo! I might (fingers crossed!) be done with body work and filler. Finished the rear valence and the quarter panel I'd been putting off. These all had the most work needed to get them back into shape and for now, at least, I'm happy with how they look. Hoping to shoot the primer over the long weekend, if I can clean up the garage and get everything prepped by then.
  14. charliekwin

    Rust Advice 78 280z

    Thirded. I've been doing my car "backwards" but started in much the same place you did: little kids, first project car, and no real experience with a lot of what I ended up doing. There were a couple times I could see the project get away from me if I didn't reign it in. Getting smaller wins at the beginning makes the bigger projects seem more manageable later on.
  15. Air dam (and attached bag of hardware) fell on it after I moved it, while thinking "hmm...that's probably not a good place to put that." I was right! That's what I get for trying to clean up a bit. Guess it's time to start watching CL and the classifieds. ETA: looks like Summit sells a replacement for $90! I feel a little better now.
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