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charliekwin

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charliekwin last won the day on September 22 2016

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About charliekwin

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    SoCal

My Z Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    280z
  • About My Cars
    1987 280z, 2007 G35 sedan 6MT

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  1. charliekwin

    Home Built Z 'Full video build'

    Jeff, you can use ABS cement with fiberglass to repair cracked panels. It will wet out just like resin and sets hard. Good job covering the panels. It's a real pain! I did a vinyl wrap on mine and had flashbacks watching the video. Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk ETA: some pictures from a while back
  2. charliekwin

    Time to cut and buff my new paint! Product suggestions?

    YES! I keep going back, thinking it'll make sense, but...nope. At least I've determined that I shouldn't go with their microfiber system (it's designed with harder OEM paints in mind), so that helps narrow things down. Fortunately, I also have a Finishmaster here in town, so I'll check them out. Like painting, YouTube's been a great resource for techniques and tips like buff away from edges, but it's mostly useless for product information. that isn't just companies hawking their wares.
  3. charliekwin

    Time to cut and buff my new paint! Product suggestions?

    Thanks Charles. The sanding part seems relatively straightforward. It's the options for compounding and finishing that are leaving me somewhat befuddled. By my count, Meguiar's alone has like 9 different cutting compounds and 6 polishes. Then there's foam discs and microfiber discs (and apparently Meguiar's has special polishes and compounds for the microfiber discs, too!). With that many options, it makes me think of this gag from the Simpsons: But still, I'd hate to somehow end up with the wrong one!
  4. I've finished with painting (single stage urethane), and now ready to undo all my screwups. There's some dust and other floaty bits that got into the paint that I want to get out, and a few areas where the paint didn't flow well where I sprayed a little too fast. There's some orange peel I'd like to try and minimize as well, but I don't expect to get it all out. I'm not aiming for a show car finish, but a 10 or 5-footer -- I hope! -- is within reach. So, what products do you guys like? What grits/papers/blocks for wet sanding? Which pads and compounds for polishing?
  5. charliekwin

    1971 Datsun 240Z Dash/ NOS/ Re-manufactured from Nissan

    Walnut Creek! My home town!
  6. charliekwin

    Z mechanic in Santa Monica area

    Mike's Z shop in Whittier seems to be pretty well regarded and I see it mentioned a lot, though it's a bit of a drive. There's Z Expert in Venice. Good reviews there. Miller's Sports and Imports is out in my area in Pasadena. I took my Z to him to check out after I bought it. That's the extent of my experience there, but he always has cars stacked up in the lot.
  7. charliekwin

    1976 280Z Restoration Project

    I'm not an expert by any means, but in the course of my research, almost all the people who advocated for filler over bare metal were the "old timers." As best as I could tell, epoxy -> filler -> primers seems to be the fairly universal best practice these days.
  8. Another productive day of painting; finally in the home stretch. I got the fenders, doors, and the top of the hood and hatch done today. I think I did a better job overall on the shell than I did on these pieces, which I wouldn't have expected. I could never get a nice flat coat on the hood, and something weird happened on one spot on the top of a fender. But I did a respectable job on all my body work (phew!) and I'm planning to do a cut and buff on everything anyway, so I think it'll look good once fixed. All that's left to paint now is the cowl, inspection panels, gas cover, and the bottom of the hood and hatch. And an outside shot of the shell to show the color. This is pretty true to life. I maybe should have gone just a little bit darker and a little less saturated, but I like it.
  9. charliekwin

    1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build

    My hatch has a top-to-bottom curve that's roughly the same as the horizontal curve. I think that's how it should be, but my hatch was in fairly rough shape, so I'm probably no authority here. Actually, mine *was* flat when I started... Stud welder and shrinking disk didn't help, but I was very much learning on the fly. Replacing the missing pad behind the panel did the trick for me. That said, if you're happy with how it looks now, unfixing it might not be the best move. Grannyknot's suggestion to embiggen the lock sounds good to me. Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
  10. My original compressor is a 10 gallon oiled HF unit. I did the epoxy with that compressor and the purple HF gun. For the high build primer, I used a better HF gun and the same compressor. That was a struggle, but barely passable. That compressor couldn't even do a small test pass with the Devilbiss gun. The second compressor I picked up is the 21 gallon oiled one from HF. Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
  11. The shell is painted! Also the air dam, but that's less exciting. One coat of epoxy as a sealer, then 3 coats of color. I went with VW's Dove Blue (at least a version of it -- seems like there's some variation out there). Between the color temp in the garage (cloudy + flouro lights), camera flash, and Lightroom processing, I'm not sure any of these pictures are getting the color right, but the rear quarter shots are probably closest. So far, pretty happy with how I did. My test panels had a fair amount of orange peel, but with the exception of the driver rear quarter, I got the paint to lay on pretty flat and without runs. Body work looks pretty good, but I'll know for sure when I can roll it out into the sun. For now, I've got it in the garage with a space heater keeping everything warm. Also, I gotta give a shout-out to some guy on one of the auto body forums I read who had advice on compressors. I don't have a 240 volt outlet at my house, and can't add it as a renter, so all those threads that say "just buy a bigger compressor" aren't that helpful. But connecting two cheap-ish Harbor Freight units with some check valves did the job pretty admirably! The Devilbiss gun wants 13 CFM, but it felt like it was getting enough air the whole time. Business trip to Vegas at the end of this week, but hopefully I can do all the parts on Sunday. Woo!
  12. A milestone! Everything is filled, primed, blocked, and cleaned. It's ready to paint!! Just need to clean up the garage and remask the shell. Phew! Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
  13. charliekwin

    1978 280z near Houston

    I think he's priced high. Looks like there's a fair amount of surface rust (and probably more) on the hatch and door jams, who knows where else. Real sloppy looking job on the primer; even sprayed over the door handle, lock and mirror. Who does that and why? If you're gonna take on a big project (which this looks like), you could probably find something cheaper.
  14. charliekwin

    Two questions before I shoot the color

    Yeah, I've been watching and enjoying all of Jeff's videos as well. I'm shooting a solid single stage, so I should be okay doing panels. After some more Googling, and in line with Patcon's suggestion, it seems like the best bet is to mask the outsides near the edges and shoot the hidden side. Then re-block around the tape line and shoot the outside. I propped the doors up on some propane tanks when I shot epoxy, and other than being a little low, it worked pretty well. Looks like I've got a plan.
  15. charliekwin

    Two questions before I shoot the color

    Thanks for the input guys, looks like #3 it is. Which is great, now I don't have to fret about running out of paint and can be a little more aggressive with the sanding. I'll give the high spots some love taps, too. Any advice on the best way to paint the hatch and hood?
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