Patcon
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Everything posted by Patcon
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I wonder if the GM tranny fluid would help? It does sound like the 3rd synchro could be a problem. Nice looking car!
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He's a "sparkie"
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You aught to be able to turn the freeze plugs out and with the head off blow the majority of the block clean. I know Rossiz did something similar and said he was surprised at the amount of gunk that came out. The freeze plugs can be difficult to get out. I have struggled to get them turned sometimes but a fabricator at your level will grind out some interesting little widget to make it easy peasy!
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Also be sure they are in the correct locations
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There is either a problem with the lever that trips the switch or you need a switch with a longer plunger. Can you shine a flashlight into the transmission for a look?
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It would have to be slop in the ball joints, at the control arm bushings or the tie rod I believe. Those are the only places I can think of that would allow that type of movement. If you have spring compressors, you could jack it up, remove the wheels and take the spring tension off and see where the slack is. I would think it would be pretty obvious but maybe not.
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If there is slack in the output U-joints then the slack may be in the output shafts and not internal to the diff
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When you do the clutch be sure the throw bearing and collar stack to the proper height. Maybe some one can link to it for you. If the stacked height is wrong it can cause similar issues
- 27 replies
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- 240
- advice
- clutch
- drivetrain
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Do the output shafts move when you do that? If they don't move, that is inside the diff. It could be re-shimmed but might not last or it could whine once it's re-shimmed
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Do you know if the clutch has ever been replaced? There are other possible causes but they are not easily fixable
- 27 replies
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- 240
- advice
- clutch
- drivetrain
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Tagged with:
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Cliff, If it were mine, I would only replace the places in the floor with patches that need it and replace the rusty frame rails. Now if you get it cleaned up and you find a lot more holes I might change my mind but on the car I am doing know that is what I did. I might have a partial floor pan from Charlie that would have the section you need. You would also need to get some frame rails. I'll be in "T-town" on Thurs evening until sometime late Friday Afternoon. If you wanted to try to meet up. I know you're pretty far North of I-20
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That was oddly coincidental! It wasn't me...
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Try to actuate the switch while it's not in th he tranny and see if the lights work
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If you're running carbs, I am not sure I would expect much of a change with the oil cap on or off. Maybe someone else will confirm this
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I believe it prevents oil that might leak out the rear seal from slinging around every where. That's my theory at least
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I suspect they were lacking the boat anchor original mount or they wanted to mount it in such a way as to not interfere with the fuel pump. Your current install is much better in a number of ways
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That doesn't do much for me but I bet it took a lot of work to get it that way.
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Can you turn the AC compressor by hand? Not the clutch part but the actual compressor portion. I am not sure they can be turned by hand but still worth a check.
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Steve gave you pretty good advise on the brake fluid before. If it were me I would use a DOT 3/4 compatible fluid. It won't surprise me if you have a leak somewhere. Many times a number of us are reading these threads but we don't get involved if you have already been given good advise
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It's probably leaking from the rear of the striker arm. If it is; it's not an in car repair.
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Take a better picture of the "pulley" on the lower drivers side of the car. The side view and a front-ish view
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Will the collar on the old drive shaft move over to the new drive shaft?
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$8,300 now!!! Runs in 4 days...
