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About Johnny280

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  1. Can confirm from Duisburg - Germany. One Gallon of 'Super 95 (95 RON) today costs 6.77$ Don't ask for the premium juice. Edit: Of course those are our normal prices without any crisis 😂
  2. Hi, can you elaborate a little bit why you still want to remove the head to change the valve stem seals? The video I posted (pretty easy to find for everyone) shows exactly what needs to be done. I did it together with my girlfriend and it was pretty easy. You just need a valve spring compressor tool and some rope (and maybe a new valve cover gasket if yours is done).
  3. I used this video as a reference: worked like a charm for me (with the right tool).
  4. I had the exact same issue some weeks ago in the evening with heavy rain on the German Autobahn. Some people 'happily' flashed at me so i stopped and had a look at a gas station. Bulbs and fuses were ok and since i had no tools with me and had to drive another 100 miles I called the guys from ADAC (german car club - i guess equivalent to AAA) The guy did some measurements and said that most probably the switch had a problem. So we pulled off the steering column cover and had a look. It turned out to be an issue with the big plastic connector (switch was fine). We disconnected it several times
  5. Great to hear that it is fixed. My windshield is also waterproof again. I used some new precision brand rubber gasket which fits very nicely and looks great, too.
  6. Jupp, did the same: wiped backwards - shat my pants - read the forum - swapped the linkage 180° at the motor - wiped the right way - was super happy - hit the road in hard rain - wiped like a boss - found out that my windscreen is leaking...
  7. I finally had time to work on the car. Valve stem seals are done, new NGK BP6ES's installed + a wideband O2. Mixture ~2.75 rev down showed a pretty rich idle of 11.2-11.4. I went back to 2.5 revs down and now the car is idling at 11.8-12 when hot. Which seems to be inline with experience other people have with SUs on this forum - idling a little on the rich side. I still have to drive a little bit more and check the plugs. And write down the air-fuel-ratio for different conditions. If someone from Europe reads this: The "Ventilfeder-Montagewerkzeug" (valve spring removal tool) from KS Tool
  8. Ok, thanks for all the advice. I found some similiar tool available in my part of the world and sourced some elring valve stem seals (original Nissan ones go for 16$ per piece over here...). I will update this thread after the compression test and valve stem seals/spark plug change.
  9. Ok, thanks for the clarification. I thought that this is a generell behavior. I will try with new spark plugs and recdo the carb tuning. As soon as i have time to go to my workshop (sadly not in the next 2 month) will do the compression test. Regarding the sticky nozzle, i sometimes run into the problem that the front nozzle is stuck in the downward position eventough the choke is closed, a gentle touch (sometimes it is doing it by itself) will let it jump up. I had to adjust the choke linkage before, because both nozzles wouldn't stay up. Is there a special method how to bend those l
  10. Hi, first of all i want to thank everybody on this forum for always pointing me in the right direction with my Z so far. I am still in the process of learning and understanding the car and trying to identify and fix as many issues as possible. The car is a 280Z with a F54 L28 in it with P79 head and Ztherapy SU carbs (4 screw). Exhaust header is a Zstory Street into Zstory 2.5" full system. The carbs were tuned with the help of a colortune until it showed a bunsen blue (first 1 then 4). This resulted in the fuel mixture nut to be turned a little over 2.5 revolutions down (measured b
  11. Hi, had the same problem two weeks ago. I just removed it and installed the header. Drove the car for ~150miles and nothing exloded so i guess whatever it is doing is not that necessary for the survival of the car (i might be wrong here ).
  12. But at least for my carbs giving a little choke first moves the butterflies and much later in the lever travel drops the nozzles? I don't know if there are different throttle linkages out there?
  13. I forgot: my carb oil is 3ml of 20W50. Small amount of choke would be equal to adding a little bit of fast idle screw right? Since the choke is first moving the butterflies and later enriching the mixture.
  14. Two days of wrenching later, the Z now has a full Zstory exhaust plus Header (a little bit tricky with the orginal heatshield) and the vacuum lines were rerouted. The Vacuum advance is now at the right nipple as is the carbon canister signal line. They both seem to work fine - vacuum advance is advancing and signal line is signaling. As expected the servo diaphragm and control valve are really doing nothing in this setup and could be completely removed. After setting the timing to 10 BDC (timing was pretty off) and checking if the mechanical advance and vacuum advance are fine i readjusted th
  15. Thanks for the Info I will reroute both carbon canister and vacuum advance to that ported vacuum source. Regarding dyslexia I blame Television and maybe my foreign origin : / Will keep your advice in mind about the AC when it is running again.
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