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About Johnny280

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  1. Update: I removed the carbs and had a good look at the linkages. There were multiple things wrong: 1. the choke cable was indeed too tight and was preventing the spring to get rid of the play and keeping the nozzle completely up. 2. a wrong bend in connecting bar A resulted in the sticky nozzle situation. After some time I was able to bend it in a fashion that a) the nozzle stays up b) the nozzle is not sticky c) both nozzles move the same amount 3. had a look at the connection rod to the butterfly and bend it to match the specs in the service manual (between 0.59-0.69mm butterfly
  2. Thanks a lot for everyones input so far. A lot of stuff I have to think about. I will try to analyze the clamping situation first and fiddle around with all your different methods, then probably get the carbs out to check the linkage for canting. @siteunseen: The carbs are suppose to be ZTherapy rebuild ones and the rubber hose seems to be of the right type - flexible silicone ones. Regarding the Choke attachment. Yes, i replicated that one after wasting half a day building my own idea (wasn't aware that the internet had a pretty good solution). Mine was working but too bulky to fit unde
  3. Hi, good to hear that sloppy is normal. First I will check the choke cables. Last time I worked in that area I was adding a floor mount for the choke lever and swapped the old cables with new piano wire (very smooth action now). I know that i brought the 'clamp lever' up to the point that i could feel the spring resistance starting to have immediate action when moving the choke lever. Should I leave some margin there? If that doesn't solve the problem I assume that the up and down play in Connecting plate A to the 'unknown plate' needs to be adjusted by bending Connection plate
  4. Hello, I was chasing down (again) a problem with a stuck open nozzle when easing out the choke on my SU carbs when I noticed some weird play between the Connecting plate A and the attached 'unknown name plate' on the choke shaft. Both carb have it - more pronounced on the front one. Also the connection between the connecting rod and the fast idle lever (the connection with the small spring) looks very loose. I added three videos to show the current situation. Any help and feedback is appreciated. If someone is wondering about the throttle return spring custom setup => i had to ci
  5. And will you go for tripple weber or stay SU?
  6. Can confirm from Duisburg - Germany. One Gallon of 'Super 95 (95 RON) today costs 6.77$ Don't ask for the premium juice. Edit: Of course those are our normal prices without any crisis 😂
  7. Hi, can you elaborate a little bit why you still want to remove the head to change the valve stem seals? The video I posted (pretty easy to find for everyone) shows exactly what needs to be done. I did it together with my girlfriend and it was pretty easy. You just need a valve spring compressor tool and some rope (and maybe a new valve cover gasket if yours is done).
  8. I used this video as a reference: worked like a charm for me (with the right tool).
  9. I had the exact same issue some weeks ago in the evening with heavy rain on the German Autobahn. Some people 'happily' flashed at me so i stopped and had a look at a gas station. Bulbs and fuses were ok and since i had no tools with me and had to drive another 100 miles I called the guys from ADAC (german car club - i guess equivalent to AAA) The guy did some measurements and said that most probably the switch had a problem. So we pulled off the steering column cover and had a look. It turned out to be an issue with the big plastic connector (switch was fine). We disconnected it several times
  10. Great to hear that it is fixed. My windshield is also waterproof again. I used some new precision brand rubber gasket which fits very nicely and looks great, too.
  11. Jupp, did the same: wiped backwards - shat my pants - read the forum - swapped the linkage 180° at the motor - wiped the right way - was super happy - hit the road in hard rain - wiped like a boss - found out that my windscreen is leaking...
  12. I finally had time to work on the car. Valve stem seals are done, new NGK BP6ES's installed + a wideband O2. Mixture ~2.75 rev down showed a pretty rich idle of 11.2-11.4. I went back to 2.5 revs down and now the car is idling at 11.8-12 when hot. Which seems to be inline with experience other people have with SUs on this forum - idling a little on the rich side. I still have to drive a little bit more and check the plugs. And write down the air-fuel-ratio for different conditions. If someone from Europe reads this: The "Ventilfeder-Montagewerkzeug" (valve spring removal tool) from KS Tool
  13. Ok, thanks for all the advice. I found some similiar tool available in my part of the world and sourced some elring valve stem seals (original Nissan ones go for 16$ per piece over here...). I will update this thread after the compression test and valve stem seals/spark plug change.
  14. Ok, thanks for the clarification. I thought that this is a generell behavior. I will try with new spark plugs and recdo the carb tuning. As soon as i have time to go to my workshop (sadly not in the next 2 month) will do the compression test. Regarding the sticky nozzle, i sometimes run into the problem that the front nozzle is stuck in the downward position eventough the choke is closed, a gentle touch (sometimes it is doing it by itself) will let it jump up. I had to adjust the choke linkage before, because both nozzles wouldn't stay up. Is there a special method how to bend those l
  15. Hi, first of all i want to thank everybody on this forum for always pointing me in the right direction with my Z so far. I am still in the process of learning and understanding the car and trying to identify and fix as many issues as possible. The car is a 280Z with a F54 L28 in it with P79 head and Ztherapy SU carbs (4 screw). Exhaust header is a Zstory Street into Zstory 2.5" full system. The carbs were tuned with the help of a colortune until it showed a bunsen blue (first 1 then 4). This resulted in the fuel mixture nut to be turned a little over 2.5 revolutions down (measured b
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