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About Johnny280

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  1. I had the exact same issue some weeks ago in the evening with heavy rain on the German Autobahn. Some people 'happily' flashed at me so i stopped and had a look at a gas station. Bulbs and fuses were ok and since i had no tools with me and had to drive another 100 miles I called the guys from ADAC (german car club - i guess equivalent to AAA) The guy did some measurements and said that most probably the switch had a problem. So we pulled off the steering column cover and had a look. It turned out to be an issue with the big plastic connector (switch was fine). We disconnected it several times and suddenly it started working again. There was definetly some discoloration to the connector and it was filled with (di-electric?!) grease. So maybe someone already tempted with it in the past or Nissan send them out this way? I plan to clean it up in the future. But right now it is working. Maybe you have the same problem. btw. Car is `78 280Z
  2. Great to hear that it is fixed. My windshield is also waterproof again. I used some new precision brand rubber gasket which fits very nicely and looks great, too.
  3. Jupp, did the same: wiped backwards - shat my pants - read the forum - swapped the linkage 180° at the motor - wiped the right way - was super happy - hit the road in hard rain - wiped like a boss - found out that my windscreen is leaking...
  4. I finally had time to work on the car. Valve stem seals are done, new NGK BP6ES's installed + a wideband O2. Mixture ~2.75 rev down showed a pretty rich idle of 11.2-11.4. I went back to 2.5 revs down and now the car is idling at 11.8-12 when hot. Which seems to be inline with experience other people have with SUs on this forum - idling a little on the rich side. I still have to drive a little bit more and check the plugs. And write down the air-fuel-ratio for different conditions. If someone from Europe reads this: The "Ventilfeder-Montagewerkzeug" (valve spring removal tool) from KS Tools (150.0918) works like a charm for removing the valve springs.
  5. Ok, thanks for all the advice. I found some similiar tool available in my part of the world and sourced some elring valve stem seals (original Nissan ones go for 16$ per piece over here...). I will update this thread after the compression test and valve stem seals/spark plug change.
  6. Ok, thanks for the clarification. I thought that this is a generell behavior. I will try with new spark plugs and recdo the carb tuning. As soon as i have time to go to my workshop (sadly not in the next 2 month) will do the compression test. Regarding the sticky nozzle, i sometimes run into the problem that the front nozzle is stuck in the downward position eventough the choke is closed, a gentle touch (sometimes it is doing it by itself) will let it jump up. I had to adjust the choke linkage before, because both nozzles wouldn't stay up. Is there a special method how to bend those linkages to make sure that the nozzle stays up and is not binding? As to the valve stem seals: What would be the "right spring compressor" for the job?
  7. Hi, first of all i want to thank everybody on this forum for always pointing me in the right direction with my Z so far. I am still in the process of learning and understanding the car and trying to identify and fix as many issues as possible. The car is a 280Z with a F54 L28 in it with P79 head and Ztherapy SU carbs (4 screw). Exhaust header is a Zstory Street into Zstory 2.5" full system. The carbs were tuned with the help of a colortune until it showed a bunsen blue (first 1 then 4). This resulted in the fuel mixture nut to be turned a little over 2.5 revolutions down (measured both sides with calipers: 2.7mm down). As mentioned in an earlier post the idle is quite stable around 800rpm. There was some valve ticking from 5 and 6 which disappeared after valve adjustment according to the FSM (cold 0.008/0.010). The car runs fine as far as i can tell (maybe burns a little too much oil => 3/4L on 1300 miles). Revs fine, sounds awesome, but i am still anxious that something is not right and that someday the engine will blow up. Especially the fact that when i remove the oil filler cap and or the dipstick nothing changes. No stumble no drop in RPM, nothing. The valve cover gasket is new, albeit one bolt in the middle of the driver side is missing, but i cannot see any oil leak and hope it is sealing. I checked for potential vacuum leaks but found nothing so far. Also checked the pvc system which seems to work fine. The spark plug colors after some longer highway trip were as follows: 1. dark brown; 2. dry black; 3. wet brown; 4. brown with a hint of white at the tip; 5. same as 6. dark brown. Timing is 10 BTDC, mechanical and vacuum advance seem to work. With vacuum advance disconnected and around 3000 rpm it was at over 20 and with vacuum reconnected even further of the scale. My question now is: what could be the reason and a possible strategy to fix the issue with the non stumbling lady? Any help is very much appreciated.
  8. Hi, had the same problem two weeks ago. I just removed it and installed the header. Drove the car for ~150miles and nothing exloded so i guess whatever it is doing is not that necessary for the survival of the car (i might be wrong here ).
  9. But at least for my carbs giving a little choke first moves the butterflies and much later in the lever travel drops the nozzles? I don't know if there are different throttle linkages out there?
  10. I forgot: my carb oil is 3ml of 20W50. Small amount of choke would be equal to adding a little bit of fast idle screw right? Since the choke is first moving the butterflies and later enriching the mixture.
  11. Two days of wrenching later, the Z now has a full Zstory exhaust plus Header (a little bit tricky with the orginal heatshield) and the vacuum lines were rerouted. The Vacuum advance is now at the right nipple as is the carbon canister signal line. They both seem to work fine - vacuum advance is advancing and signal line is signaling. As expected the servo diaphragm and control valve are really doing nothing in this setup and could be completely removed. After setting the timing to 10 BDC (timing was pretty off) and checking if the mechanical advance and vacuum advance are fine i readjusted the carbs using a colortune and a syncrometer. I had to lean it out half a turn to get it out of the yellow into a rich blue (the 'raise the piston by 2mm' and 'get the highest idle' methods never worked for me so i tried that colortune) - i guess this is normal after timing and new headers? It runs great now, the throttle is very responsive and apart from the fact that it is still super loud and a little 'drowny' at 60-65mph, which i wanted to fix with changing the old manifold and 'mystery' middle secition to Zstory complete (Muffler was already the 'classic' version). Anyway the sound is really impressive and maybe i am just getting old and the noise level is normal : / @Geoff and Mark about this idle waver: It is still there and i really listened to it more closely and i was wrong with the 3-5 seconds frequency it is more like 1-2 seconds. And i had the feeling that it even persists during steady cruise. Like the car wants to accelerate a tiny amount and then drops back but ever so slightly. I will try to have a look at the pistons if they are moving. Maybe this could also be a tiny vacuum leak, because i experienced the same issue much more pronounced after i destroyed the first vacuum advance hose on the hot exhaust ?. It felt the same but tenfold in magnitude.
  12. Thanks for the Info I will reroute both carbon canister and vacuum advance to that ported vacuum source. Regarding dyslexia I blame Television and maybe my foreign origin : / Will keep your advice in mind about the AC when it is running again.
  13. Thanks for answer. I checked behind the front carb dome and there is a capped of nipple. I will connect the vacuum line to that source, cap of the one on the balance tube (or run a vacuum line to the carbon canister from here) and set the ignition timing. And for FCID=>FICD I will try better next time ? But will the engine run fine without raising the rpm if the AC is running?
  14. Hi, right now i am in the process of fixing all small issues with my Fairlady. Since you guys already helped me I want to try my luck a second time. I had a look at the vacuum lines and to me they seem to be set up in a weird way. The car is a '78 280Z with a 280ZX engine (L28E F54 block with P79 head) converted to Ztherapy SU carbs and original AC. The engine runs fine apart from a slight fluctuation in idle speed (every 3-5 second it goes up from 800rpm to maybe 840rpm and then back down again). I checked all the FSMs to use the correct terms in my drawing and I added three pictures of the current situation. Especially the wrong plumming of the servo diaphragm and control valve +the missing connection to the carbon canisters vacuum signal line seems odd to me. If i understand the original piping correctly then I would expect that the servo diaphragm is doing nothing in this setup (have to check if it moves during let go of the throttle) and that the carbon canister is only doing its job in 'idle mode' due to the bypass mentioned in the haynes manual (because the valve for the purge line is never opened by the vacuum signal line). Another point is the missing of the EFI specific FCID. The AC is not working at the moment so i don't know if the car runs fine without raising the idle rpm. I wonder if it would make sense to pipe the FCID magnet valve to the control valve to use it as a 'carb FCID'? My overall question to the experts is 'Do i need to be concered about this vacuum setup (do i need the servo diaphragm/carbon canister to do their work) or is this maybe a clever solution?' Thanks in advance for your time and help. Picture 1: Picture 2. Picture 3.
  15. Hi, finally found the time to check both problems. For the Shift Knob it was really the inlet buzzing (without knob/ with knob without inlet everything is fine). So I will try to glue it back in place with some better glue. The drum brake noise came from a bent edge on the backplate (thx for the hint zed head). Wheelbearing play was minimal. After pulling the drum it was pretty obvious which part was rubbing (ground some nice groove into half of the cooling fins). Thank you all for your help.
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