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About Pinbill

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    1971 240z.

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  1. That's great info. I didn't know the compressors could be rebuilt. Thanks for letting me know. The MSA kits are NLA. I will save all the parts. I don't know when I will be getting into it but its nice to have the option to put it back. I would want to put all new seals in it and new lines. The lines are 50 yrs old and held on by hose clamps. LOL. I am ready to start re assembly today. The engine compartment and all the parts are. I touched up the area by the battery tray yesterday. Got the radiator flushed and painted. The exhaust manifold will be done at the ceramicote place today.
  2. I ordered a gasket for the little plate today. It was listed as a head inspection plate gasket. I would like to know what I can expect to inspect in there as well. I don't think I will have the car running again in time for the z car meeting in February. Maybe. I got the last parts off the car today. There are a few things to clean up and I need to degrease the left side engine compartment this afternoon. The radiator is getting dropped off for a flush Monday and the exhaust manifold should be done next week as well. I looked at an 83 280zx parts car for the transmission a few months ago. The guy opened the hood and I was shocked at the octopus that was under there. The AC unit had no charge left in it. I took out all the AC stuff under the hood. The lines were hard rubber and held on by hose clamps. I figured they were garbage. The compressor is R12 so I think its garbage too. Are any of the engine AC parts worth saving or should I recycle them?
  3. Ok, here is an update. The engine compartment detail has snowballed. I should have just pulled the motor. At this point everything is getting cleaned, buffed, polished, etc. I was happy to see the coolant inlet bolts came out easily. It looks like either the fuel pump or the cover on the front below the valve cover was leaking. While I have everything apart, are there any parts on the front timing cover that are prone to leaking that I should change out?
  4. Sorry guys, I went with the MSA studs. I figure the original ones didn't have antiseize and were good for 50 years. I couldn't find a stud that was easily ordered and closely matched the two sizes needed. I will do antiseize on the new ones. I will be dead and the motor will need to be rebuilt before the manifold comes off again. LOL. I did order the 14037-V5005 lock nuts. I don't need split lock washers or locktite with these correct? Thanks for the help, Bill
  5. Aahhhh!! The MSA website says they are OEM, but I would hate to put bad quality studs in the head. I will call them tomorrow and cancel. Thanks for the tip about the locking nuts. The nuts were almost falling off when I removed the manifold. I think the bolts on the intake were in secure. Found the lock nut part number on a previous post. Nissan# 14039-W1500. I will call them tomorrow. Where can you get stronger studs? Should I reuse the intake bolts? The internet and global commerce are amazing. Here is an ebay listing from Kuwait for NOS bolts, but it takes 25 days to get here.
  6. Got the studs from MSA. Got a bit of rubber, weatherstripping, and hood bump stops and all kinds of stuff. I cleaned the crap out the the head and block today. Starting to look real nice. Tomorrow I will start buffing out the brake lines and engine compartment paint. I never in my life thought I would be buffing out brake lines......
  7. Gotcha, it is going to change into polished metal. I am going to remove the studs today so I can clean the head surface off. I ordered the Z therapy video today. I called this morning (Sunday) at 745 Pacific Time to get the business hours and a guy took my order. I didn't expect to speak with someone. He was very nice and I felt kind of bad. I hope I didn't wake him up. LOL. Does anyone run different needles for altitude? The car will be mostly in Denver 5600' and in the mountains up to 9000'. Bill
  8. Hey Guys, Didn't make it to the last meeting. I am going to hit the ZCCC meeting in February. Its good for me to get out more. I am running the mt90 redline. Not sure what the previous owner had put in it. I am pretty sure the wrong oil ate up the synchros. Got everything off the right side of the motor today. The bolts for the manifold were very loose. I decided to take the smog pump, distributor, and thermostat housing off to polish them up and change the gaskets. Both bolts for the thermostat housing broke off. There was enough to grab on and I was able to get them out with heat and PB blaster. It is so nice when broken bolts will come out. I really dodged a bullet. Two questions: Is there a reason to replace the exhaust manifold studs? I think I could get them out if I needed to. Is there a good way to clean the zink parts without taking off the zink? There is some corrosion on most it so I may lose a lot of it when polishing. I don't want to destroy the coating if I don't have too. Bill
  9. Thanks man. I am a member. I joined in the fall and went to their car show. I didn't meet anyone who was wrenching on their own cars and was a little disappointed. I will be going to a few more shows this summer and will see what happens. The tip about the front rail helped. I adjusted the rail and lubed it. It is working perfect. I also found a drivers side pull handle in good condition on ebay. That went on today as well. I am running out of things to do on the car..... I think I am going remove the intake and exhaust manifolds. I need to take the carbs off to set the float height anyway. I have the square gaskets for the carbs, two carb kits, and carb to air filter housing gaskets. I am going to order an OEM manifold gasket and balance tube gaskets. Are there other gaskets I should replace while I have everything off. Bill
  10. I just ordered two from Amazon. $28 each free shipping. A 240z guy posted a review saying that they worked. In the service manual it looks like I need some special tools to measure the thrust play of the pinon, pinion torque, pinion angle, and preload of the rack.
  11. Thanks man, I skimmed that article and didn't look hard enough. Thank you.
  12. Hello, I am gathering info to rebuild or replace my steering rack, inner and outer tie rods, and the steering shaft ujoints. I don't know if I am going to rebuild mine or order a reproduction from Z Car Source. I have a few questions. Does anyone have experience with the reproduction steering rack from Z Car Source? I can't find any reviews. Does anyone have the part numbers for the steering shaft u joints that come from a Kawasaki four wheeler? Does anyone have the part number or link for a steering pinion bearing? Thanks for the help, Bill
  13. Ok, thanks for getting back to me. I will start a new topic and see if someone out there knows.
  14. Thanks man. Sometimes I just need a little encouragement. I will give it another shot. Looks like people have put washers in the front rail. The auction on Bring a Trailer yesterday motivated me to refurbish the steering rack. The grease in there has to be terrible. Z car source sells a reproduction steering rack with outer tie rod ends, coupler, and bushings for $350. Seems like a good price....too good of a price. The tie rod ends alone would be $200 if I rebuild mine. Here are some questions: Does anyone have experience with the Zcarsource rack? Does anyone have a part number for the rack pinion bearing? Does anyone have a part number for the steering shaft ujoints? Thanks for the help, Bill