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Pinbill

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About Pinbill

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    Denver

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    240z
  • About my Cars
    1971 240z.

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  1. Wow. Thanks for the detailed schematic. It is a skill trying to communicate technical information typing through a forum. I really appreciate you taking the time to provide detailed information. I can't measure the coil with it running. My meter has an auto range for continuity. I ordered a new coil and ballast resistor today and threw in a coolant overflow bottle while I was at it. I don't mind replacing 50yr old parts even if the don't fix it. LOL. Bill
  2. Ok, got it, thanks. Any ideas on the voltages?
  3. Ok, got it, thanks. Is 10.9v from the ignition switch to the ballast ok? The ballast is putting out 5.1v. Is that ok? I just checked the resistance on the ballast again and it is ranging 1.6-1.9 ohms. Spec is 1.6 ohms.
  4. Should I be getting 12v from the tach to the ballast resistor or is 10.9v ok?
  5. Hey Steve, Thanks for the response. My car will idle, but it runs rough. I hit the throttle and it won't rev. It just bogs. I have been through the carb and vacuum system. Hoping to do some tests before I throw parts at the ignition system. On the coil I got a resistance value of 8.95 from the contact to the distributor to the positive and 8.95 ohms from the contact to the distributor to the negative leads. Judging by the specs it looks like my coil is out of whack. Bill
  6. Hello, I would like make sure I am getting the proper voltage to my ignition system. I have the stock set up with the two post ballast resistor. Here are my measurements: Ballast Resistor: 1.6 ohms Ballast Resistor: 10.9v going in an 5.1v going out Coil: Primary 1.7 ohms Secondary 8.95 ohms Coil (Car Running): 7.6v on the positive tab and 3.8v on the negative. Can someone confirm what voltage/ resistance I should be getting to the resistor, from the resistor, to the coil, and from the coil? Thanks for the help, Bill
  7. Does anyone know what voltage I should be getting at the resistor and coil?
  8. Ok, I did the rear bowl and the car ran better for about 15 seconds. I shut it off and checked the front bowl. The front bowl was good. I started it and it is back to running like garbage. I ran the car with the sight line attached to both bowls and the level didn't drop at all while idling. It seems like it getting enough fuel.
  9. Ok, I just did the rear bowl. The car ran. I feel like when I do the front bowl it will be good. I will post back up with an update in a little bit. Bill
  10. I didn't hold the throttle open. I didn't use oil either on the compression test. I will do it again after I set the float bowl. Found a 8mm x 1 threaded banjo bolt that I used once to set the transmission on my old w123 mercedes. That's why I don't listen to anyone who tells me to throw stuff away. LOL. The reading is 26.5 mm from the top of the fuel bowl. I am 3.5mm too low in the fuel bowl. I will straighten it out to 23mm below the fuel bowl and report back.
  11. Hey guys, I was out in the garage this morning. I did a compression test without oil in the cylinders, the carb bodies closed, and the motor cold. I got 137 / 141 / 141 / 135 / 132 / 135. I tried putting oil in the cylinders but the numbers were all over the place and I didn't want to put too much in and bend a rod. I suspect the numbers will be better if I do it again with the domes off and the slides off. The odometer is at 99k. I ran two hoses into a container to test the fuel pump. Its getting plenty of clean fuel out of the fuel pump to the carbs. I am assuming the thimble fuel filter would be in the banjo bolt on the fuel bowl lid. The banjo bolt was too stuck and I didn't want to break anything. I did back flush the fuel bowl lid with carb cleaner and compressed air. I blew it into a paper towel to check for debris. I didn't see any debris or anything come out. If there is a filter in the fuel bowl lid it is clean. I blocked off all the vacuum connections to the smog pump. The two smaller gaskets on that same rail are new and tight. I checked the tightness of my carb blocks and gaskets. My intake and exhaust manifold gasket is new and tight. All my vacuum hoses from the vacuum booster (the expensive ones) are new. I sucked in on the distributor vacuum line. The distributor is holding vacuum. I was very thorough when I had the intake manifolds off. I tested the vacuum again when the car was "idling" and I got 10-12#. Does the brake vacuum booster ever leak? I am headed to the hardware store right now to get a nipple for the fuel bowl drain to do the clear line test. Bill
  12. Thanks for the reply mark. No matter where I set the nozzles the car will only run for 5 seconds at a time. The idle is rough and terrible and then it dies. When I open the throttle it bogs. Not sure where to go from here. I will check the floats again tomorrow.
  13. Update, The points gap is set correctly. I got 1.6 ohms across the resistor. On the coil I got 1.7 ohms from positive to negative. Then for the secondary I got 8.95 ohms from positive to the main coil wire and 8.95 ohms from negative to the main coil wire. I checked the plugs and I am getting a yellowish spark on all six cylinders. My battery is at 12.1v With the car running measurements on the coil were 7.6v on the positive tab and 3.8v on the negative. With the car not running and the key in the on position the coil is getting 5.1v and the ballast resistor is getting 10.9v and giving out 5.1v. Does anyone know how much voltage I should see at the coil and resistor? Thanks for the help, Bill
  14. Alrighty, It looks like I am moving in the wrong direction. I took the car out on the street and the hesitation under load got worse. It would buck and now I could hardly get up the driveway. The car starts but runs erratic, idles terrible, and shuts off. I have been through the carb system a number of times. Double checked the float valves. Took the nozzles off and checked for clogs. Cleaned the spark plugs I bought yesterday. I checked the suction chamber spring and doesn't have paint on it. It was running well with them at one point so I think they are OK. I am starting to think the problem is electrical. My points, condenser, rotor, and wires are new. I know the wires are hooked up right and the rotor is clocked correctly. I am currently searching the web to find out how to test the resistor and coil. If anyone who knows how to test the resistor and coil I would be forever grateful. Bill
  15. Got out to the garage. I changed the float setting to shut off at 14mm. There is a bit of studder under acceleration. One of the plugs looked fouled. I am headed out to get a new set and then mess with the mixture settings. I also tested the vacuum. I am getting 15 at idle with altitude of 5200'. Bill
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