Patcon

Were the ashtrays clear zinc and not chrome?

Any issues with the baked parts being a different color?

When you were talking about the radiator earlier, I almost chimed in to say you could keep the stock look and just go to a three row radiator core if cooling is an issue. Evidently that has already happened. You shouldn't have cooling issues, at least due to the available cooling area...

Are you doing the post plating bake or the plater?

I would really be surprised if they didn't all come from the same source ultimately. The market just isn't big enough for multiple companies to making stamping dies

Tabco, JDM and MSA are the only ones I know of. Some people refer to it as a slam panel

Many years ago, the last time I looked for it, I think I found it at NAPA. Today, I would do what you did and just order it.

Ospho is an acid and you shouldn't be inhaling it. I normally do that kind of stuff outside but I don't normally wear a respirator. As long as you can't really smell it you should be good. Of course I could be wrong...

Nope. The gasoline will dissolve it

I am unfamiliar with the 78 tank. On the 76 tank the lines come in near the center of the tank and go into a central area that is baffled to prevent fuel sloshing. I would expect the dent in your tank is not the issue

What year car? It's not in your signature line...

I would rather not see rust on a 280zx. The older cars rusted because they weren't galvanized. The newer cars rusted much less and were sealed better to prevent it. The hood has bondo and the front lip is rusted. I suspect more of that in there somewhere...

It is a nice tool and priced accordingly

I bought some recently from Amazon. I think it was offered for 2 day delivery. It was a choice between that and Zup AC Delco F/Mod If I had had that endorsement first, I would have gone that route

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I have done it. The bearing is available and the grease seal. The bushing are the issue. They are unique. A machine shop or a talented home fabricator can make them. Look in my build thread where I rebuilt the rack and CO has a thread on it too.

When setting doors, I do it the other way. I get the door on the car, then I set the fenders and get the door aligned well with the fender and "A" pillar. Then I check the rear alignment. The door can be twisted to make the rear edge correct. There are not many options to adjust the door fender alignment. Shim the hinges or shim the fender, but the curvature and the detail line are set. So the door needs to line up with those. The only rear adjustments for the rear of the doors are some minor fore/aft adjustment, some up/down adjustment and depth of closure based on the strike location. My passenger side door is on the car and adjusted currently and you can tell there is no gasket in it. It clunks around with lots of free movement. If you don't have that, then the gasket will never work.

The beer can looking fuel pump is aftermarket and not serviceable. The Nikki is serviceable if you can find the parts. If you need more fuel, electric is the right option. Run a fuel block off and add a relay to prevent the pump from running in an accident

Mine is today. I went golfing, because I'm a glutton for punishment!

I haven't inspected the clutch stuff yet. They're in a zip lock now

Wonder how many cars like this are still hidden behind some fence somewhere?

In the last picture, the front lower edge of the door doesn't line up with the fender and the door looks to line up better with the rocker halfway back. How bad is the door off from the rocker half way back?

Color!!!

When was your birthday?

I used the installed TObearing and the clutch arm from the 4 speed. The slave has the adjustment nuts and return spring. I adjusted it before the test drive. When Cody brought the car around to the shop he had a hard time getting it into reverse with out grinding. He said the old tranny did that and the new one did it worse. When I disassembled the clutch hydraulics on Saturday there didn't appear to be much fluid in the lines although it moved the lever well