Patcon

I'm not sure "brave" is the operative word. As I get older, I rely on my stones less and my brain more. That might apply in this instance too.

I'm ok with slow if the paint turns out like that!!! Looks great. I agree with Wheee!

Did you look to see if there was a window seal available with out the trim strip slot? I expect the trim actually helps hold the window in the car too

The lights look zinc plated with a blue chromate finish. They should last a long time with out adding anything. The one you took off is probably close to 50 years old, so I think you should be fine with out anything extra. Did you get the fuse issue fixed with the new lights?

They won't get it by convincing people it's time to move to another state! I wonder if you could call somebody like Summit racing and if they could recommend a product line that would fit your need. For me I would go to my locally owned muffler shop and pic their brain for the right product.

I'm about 9 years in right now. I have similar thoughts

Can't really help but I don't see how you guys out there put up with the stuff coming out of Sacramento!!!

Are you not using the rubber metal trims on the rear window seal?

It's a shame parts like this can't be reproduced. I love the idea of a little better lighting in an OEM setup

Cast iron is notoriously hard to weld. Doable but it takes the correct approach and the right welding rods or wire

Any idea on what size screen it needs to be ? How would you handle the edges? Are they banjo screens like the earlier carbs?

It's just a little helmet insecurity Yeah, I am looking forward to seeing if the new screen is vastly improved. My existing hat must be 5-6 years old now and 2 levels lower. So I'm sure the tech's changed some

They work now. Nice looking work space

Pictures don't work for me. It's best to upload them to the site. There they will remain even if Photobucket or any other hosting site sucks

@wal280z Wayne, did that evap unit come out of a 240z? If it did I'll take it

What compression are you running?

Done, 3350 on the way

I agree with all of that I really didn't like the idea of digital controls. Analog controls seem more robust in my opinion. That may be unfounded, but it's my perception I don't grind in my welding mask and when I use the plasma cutter I use a set of #5 glasses. Although using the welding hood might be easier since I need readers all the time now. My 1840 has the shade control on the outside and when it's turned all the way down it clicks to grind mode Actually made by Pyramex 1/30,000 response time. Now you're just "muddying the waters"!

Did you get the 2450 Digital or the other continuous model? From what I can tell from Lincolns website The 1840 , 3350, 2450 & 2450D (listed by increasing price) all have replaceable batteries and they all darken in 1/25,000th of a second The biggest differences between them seem to be how many batteries they use and the number of shades they can attain. 1840 1 CR2450 shades 9-13 internal. Although I believe it is actually external like my existing helmet 3350 1 CR2450 shades 5-13 internal 2450 2 CR2450's shades 5-13 internal 2450D 2 CR2450's shades 4-13 internal The cheaper 1840 also only has 2 arc sensors. All the others have 4

Does the 2450 have a replaceable battery? I am looking at the 3350 and the Miller 281000 Digital Elite, but it had some poor reviews on the Miller website. I don't really want to see poor reviews on a hat that costs this much. I take some of them with a grain of salt because it's the internet but there was a decent percentage of them. The 2450 must be a step up from the 3350 based on the prices. I will go to the Lincoln site and look at that a little more The better viewing is nice but my biggest beef is battery access. I really believe if the batteries were changed out my existing hat would work fine. I am running really low current and evidently that can cause the batteries to drain more because the flash isn't as bright. I don't know if that is true or not

I am assuming Jim looked at it and determined the quarters were filled. That was one of the aspects that gave the car value until you find out they are previously damaged

@Captain Obvious Which hat did you just get for Xmas? My helmet worked ok for a little while today. Then it started to dim dark enough. So I am shopping for a replacement, even if I can get the batteries working right.

Well the hat worked for a little while and then kept dimming but not getting dark enough. So had to stop welding for the day ?

That's ambitious! Probably salvageable if the firewall and cowl area aren't too bad, but it's a lot of work and will probably need the whole right side of the engine bay. Along with a radiator support

3 years is a long time!! I have seen surface rust cause the same thing when they are left in bare metal too long