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Hi Gang, It has been a rough ride for the past few years. I stepped back from a lot of fun things to get through. Dropping Z hobby and online activities were just part of the change. I am starting to get my strength back and tuned some carbs a few weeks ago. This was my first car activity in a few years. I am slowly coming back. I have been a hermit and reclusive. I did not keep in touch with so many good friends. I apologise. I did start to come out of the funk a few months ago and updated Jim Arnett. We had a nice chat. I also promised to update the group. Don't feel special as I also withdrew from many of my good friends here in my area. Strange how things change.... but they are changing back. In a nutshell, during the depressing covid time, Janet, my better half, got cancer and went through hell...surgery, chemo then radiation. She got better then it came back. More surgery finally took care of that #$$%%. She is good now. Once she got better, I got cancer. We were like a sorry tag team looking after each other. I did radiation with concurrent chemo from last Nov though Dec. I am finally getting strength back and starting to feel normal. All is good and last PET scan (just 2 weeks ago) finally shows no evidence of disease. Many more other horrible things seem to happen during this time but hopefully it is all behind us. I'll check back to this thread in a week. Please PM me if you wish to catch up. We can exchange phone numbers. It will be nice. kind regards and apologies to all. Philip

We checked the timing. It was about 14 with 32 or so all in Here are my mechanics Morgan is home from school for a few weekends and her boyfriend Mark was here too. They're all good with tools and willing to help

A little late jumping into this conversation. I have been "out of contact" on holiday which I do every so often going internet dark for a few days in my effort to get away from it all. Often, I travel to Europe but I just returned from several days in coastal Maine and that northern wilderness. We were hiking and boating. Reading up on this discussion, I thought I would chime in on some of the issues mentioned. Nissan contracted with four private restoration shops during the Vintage Z program. Pierre Z in Hawthorn, California completed by far the most restorations, however Classic Datsun Motorsports of Vista, California, Datsun Ally of Signal Hill, and Old Car Service of Huntington Beach were also involved. Datsun Ally and Classic Datsun Motorsports prepared two cars each. I don't know how many Old Car Service prepared. Engines were rebuilt and provided by AER Manufacturing in Arington, Texas as transmissions came from Williams Technology of Summerville, South Carolina. Pierre Z rebuilt the units for the first restoration only as Nissan contracted thereon. They were assembled units, crate shipped, including everything except carburetors, generators, cooling fan and hoses, and exhaust manifold to the best of my knowledge. Part management was coordinated through Pete Evanow of Nissan N.A. and there were documents related to car assessment, part orders, and quality control however these were internal project documents related to the management of the project cars and not released with any of the cars. I actually have part order documents for cars that were never restored. Concerning CAD plating: The yellow / gold coloring that we associate with "CAD" is a chromate conversion coating applied over the plated metal, yielding the familiar gold color. A similar appearance can be achieved with a similar chromate conversion over silver zinc which is far less toxic and not easily discernible from a cadmium base electroplate. Cadmium electroplating on its own is not yellow. I believe that what we see on cars today is yellow chromate zinc. True cadmium electroplating is not easily found or inexpensive. We all seem to call it "CAD" but that's probably a term we use for the color and not AS 9100 certified or ASTM A165, SAE AMS 2400 specification. Finally, Nissan N.A. didn't just decide to restore a bunch of 240Zs; they schemed up an ad campaign to keep the Z legend in North America alive while Nissan discontinued their current model Z with only the promise to deliver a new design some time in the future. The goal was not to create 'restorations' but deliver complete, running examples of the original car with 12,000 mile warranties. They had to rely on private repair businesses to accomplish their goal with a parts inventory that could not sustain the project. But they pulled it off! Cudos to the businesses and people who contributed to the effort. The cars are quite valuable now, and it is always exciting to see one because the story behind it is one of the best automotive sales campaign stories. Especially after the blunder of dropping the Datsun brand, I opine. So, I did the research project / compendium in 2005. I have a huge digital file of stuff as well as a fairly good library of literature. I have a vhs video that Pierre gave me in 200? that has Mr. K's visit during the restoration program. I don't have any printed , bound copies at the moment. I hear some interest for copies of stuff I have. I'm going to get some copies of the compendium made. Stay tuned.

Countdown!! I got 100 miles on it: And those 100 test miles made it clear that I need front struts:

So I've been working in the shadows on the reanimation of an early 240Z. This is not so much a restoration, but more of a reanimation project. Reanimation of an lifeless vehicle with a focus on originality. The OG 240Z: This car hasn't been on the road for decades. Many decades. And in the end, he won't be pretty, but he'll be back on the road. So let's start with the immediate... My intention is to drive this Z to the upcoming ZCON in Nashville and there are a couple things I need advice on before the trip: First, I need to carry a fire extinguisher and I know nothing about them (other than they are supposed to put out fires). Anyone know the system and have a recommendation for which type would be best for automotive related incidents? Second, I've got the original seat belts in the car, but they are the early non-adjustable style. I'd like to install something newer, safer, better, easier to use before the trip. I might swap the originals back in once I get there, but for almost 1000 miles on the road, I think I want newer technology. Is there an easy to drop in system for the 240Z cars? ZCON or BUST!!!

Over the last few days, I was busy in my workshop, getting some small tasks completed on my Z project. Time for a little update. After installing the partial gearbox to test fit the brackets and stuff, I realized that the gear lever is too much in the front of the hole: A quick look into the manual made it clear: I had mounted the lever the wrong way. So, gear box rear-end out, gear lever corrected: And back in, this time, correctly: Then I spent a lot of time at the rear end of the car. I had to clean the holes for the three taillight panels, so that the plastic rivets would lock properly. After that i re-installed the taillights, and ensured the sealing rubbers were set correctly, using my "string-trick": Next i have to finish the slightly worn chrome / metal trim around the taillight panels and get them back on: While working at the rear, i decided to install all those fasteners, stoppers, alignment pieces, guides, etc. Like those rubber spacers: And trunk dampers. I have a NOS set of everything, so the installed ones are only temporary, to not mess up the new ones: And the last bit at the rear end was to align the trunk / hatch. The body shop had installed some spacers to get it straight, but after all the parts got installed, I had to remove them again and massage a few areas lightly to have it all aligned: Next? Seat rails. I had those Bride seat rails from my Histrix lying around for a while and wanted to test-fit them. I'm most probably going to use something different setup in the end, but I wanted to ensure that the distance and position of the seat mounting brackets was right after all the bodywork. I thought the best way was to use the original seat rail mounting studs and spacers. Since I had several highly-damaged OEM seats, I hammered out the fasteners and used the plastic spacers after grinding away the factory spot-welds on the bolts. This worked unexpectedly well, so now I can do some trials with different seats, rails and setups - to figure out what will go into the car in the end. Next: I realized that I didn't have any upper rear number plate light in my part collection. Luckily, Florian from Datsun-Autowerk was kind enough to send me one of his broken ones including some other parts (more on that in a following post), for trials. After puzzling and glueing all the parts together... I could mock it up all together and drill the required holes. Fun-fact: I always thought that slight "dent" in the gray metal piece was a production fault of the reproduction panel, but it's actually there to make space for the number plate lighting bolt. After the holes were done and cleaned, I got the upper plastic part installed. And then the whole thing with the lens. Note all bolts and the light itself are temporary units for the mock-up only, final parts will be correct and fresh. Looks good if you ask me! Special thanks to the person who gave me the hint with the holes (I wasn't able to find the mail anymore, but you know who you are!) And then? Spoiler-Alert. Again. After i realized that the currently installed spoiler is beyond repair, I remembered that I had another one lying around. But it was bent in all directions and super wobbly: But all the brackets were still in good shape, so I gave them a little wire wheel brush and corrosion protection: I placed them on our terrace, which tends to get quite hot now in summer And let it take the heat every day. My thought was that the Polyurethane gets weak and goes either back in its natural shape by itself, or can be massaged. At the end, some areas turned out to be pretty stiff, even with heat and required some proper bending over my special bending bench :-) It didn't really work out. It's way better than in the beginning, but still super wobbly. I thought if i'd install it on the car, it might straighten itself a bit. Let's see. I have my doubts. The good thing is, there seems to be another spoiler on the horizon :-) I've seen worse ones, but yeah. Not good enough for me: I also went through my plated fasteners and sorted them a bit. I got various boxes over the years from various collectors and Z-specialists, so it was about time to ensure I find what I'm looking for :-) The to-do list gets smaller by the week. And there's not much left from my side, but some tricky bits. I guess I've earned my favorite Japanese "Hitachino Nest" beer for today.

"Hold that damn light still!" was heard many times in my early years. When he would finish a repair I was put in charge of cleaning all the tools and putting them away.

Good morning deanhuff, Can't answer your question as I just don't know. However, if you're like the owners of the vast majority of old cars and only put a few hundred miles on your Z per year it isn't really an issue. Of course if your comfort level requires a lead additive by all means feel free. If you've recently acquired a Z I strongly suggest 1 - cold and hot valve adjustment 2 - cold and hot cylinder leakage test 3 - new valve cover gasket (the absolute best is Nissan which is still available from your local dealer under P/N 13270-Y7010) Cheers

Cody has been back from Fla for about a week. He finally got a break. We had a short family vacation and then spent all weekend working on cars! He spent 3-4 hours tracing the turn signal circuit. In the end we switched back to the original hazard switch and that made everything light up the way it should. The flasher was bad but I have a new electronic one to use. We also made short jumper harnesses to go between the US harness and the JDM tail lights. The green and yellow will come from the brake switch at the pedal and then it should all work appropriately. We also got the car fired up yesterday. I bought a cheap L6 electronic dizzy off ebay. I swapped it in for the old match box dizzy and it fired right up. I guess the matchbox went bad the last time I tried to fire it up because it sort of bumped over for a sec and then no spark. We'll see how long this dizzy lasts Ordered a reverse switch for the transmission and that may be sorted. Need to sort power for the blower fan and some odds and ends electrical and it will be close to ready to test

Oh sorry, I finished it up, drove it a few miles, had a very small oil leak I fixed, timing cover bolt(s). The front brakes or hubs were getting hot, resolved that issue quickly. I've probably put 600 miles on the car since. It rides unbelievably smooth and quiet. There's nothing left to work on. I'm at a loss now, it's kind of a strange feeling. What a battle it was though, I really enjoyed the challenge for the most part, and I miss it.

Apologies will never be necessary when one is caring for family and self. I am so very glad to see you back with us, your humor and knowledge have been sorely missed. For those of you who know them, here is a pic from ZCON 2015 when my wife and I were fortunate to make the in-person acquaintance of Philip and Janet. What a grand time we had hanging out with this couple and others from the classiczcars group.

Because the curious mind must KNOW. For me, owning a classic car is really the journey. I get great satisfaction from understanding all the ins-and-outs of...well, anything. If I drive it, fly it, sail it, race it, ride it, eat it, grow it, run it in my house or office, or if it has moving parts or does anything that impacts my life in any meaningful way, I am driven to know how the thing works, and/or how to build/repair/grow/write/create my own. I like making things.

Are you kidding? This place is full of nuts.

I got it running and driving back in May. Finally got it insured and new tags in June then took it down the street to fill it with gas. Today was the first day I really got it out and drove it...in all about 55 miles. She needs some tweaking to run better still though it was still really nice to be able to drive her again. This short video is in after I got back home. 20250726_125928.mp4

The smart ones hide, sit back and chill. That's why I'm on here everyday, trying to learn something. 😁 Bugging the $^!# out of everybody...

It seems that's what you've been doing for the last decade and really aren't any closer to a solution than you were when you first recognized the problems. Unless you have a strong emotional tie to your Z, I suggest moving on to another car that you can enjoy driving with confidence that it will run well and get you where you want to go and back home. Just a suggestion that could make your life less complicated and more enjoyable. I once had a '74 Porsche that I never drove farther from home than I cared to walk back. I knew several AAA tow truck drivers by their first names. I was happy and relieved to finally sell it and eventually bought another that I've owned for 32 years.

You say: switched tops but maybe you must switch top and piston on the other bottom part.. btw always keep the parts of 2 carbs ALWAYS apart.. they look the same but are very fine tuned parts..

Moved upstate to Ithaca NY back in April. Had the 350Z shipped up ahead of us, then took the 280Z on. a clear day. Still no work on the cars yet, still setting up the grounds, garage & house Garage was used as. workshop, so it has a couple of 240 circuits, air compressor lines & ports, and radiant heat. Little more cluttered now, still working on setting it up Added glass panels to each door for more light Outside garage back in April: Better weather Adding slabs outside the barn & garage for me to work on - there are no flat/level/safe areas on the property outside of the garage

Just for fun, I've dug out the JUNE 1997 edition of OLD TIMER Magazine - published in Japan - to scan some photos from the 8 page article in which they covered Vintage Z Program-related activities at Pierre's, Z World and the lobby of NMC USA. The original photos are many, small and scan up with a noticeable Moire pattern, but people still might like to see them. 'Donor' cars sitting in the parking lot behind Pierre's, waiting to start the process. Original caption says that they counted 13 in this row alone and that Pierre's had a total of 25 base cars and 8 cars for parts, so a total of 33 cars 'in stock' at that time. Any lack of ambience is made up for with Ambulance: Caption says this is a stripped bodyshell, waiting to be collected by the bodyshop: Caption says that this lineup of suspension parts have been stress checked and delicate areas taped up prior to collection for blasting and "powder coating": I'll scan and upload some more tomorrow...

There we go again with the insults. I've found that people like that aren't very happy people in general - that's always been my frame of mind when trying to understand such behavior.

I remember my older brother and Dad were swapping a clutch. I jumped in the car, pushed the clutch to the floor, blowing out the slave cylinder. I got out of the car and started running! Fun times. My Dad is now 87 and loves to brag on my mechanic ability. He's my biggest fan.....now. Lots of great memories.

Seiko Watch CorporationThe Datsun 240Z and Prospex Speedtimer: New collaboration...

I’ve never had much respect for the Chilton or Climer (sp?) service manuals, once I realized they were nothing more than stolen excerpts from the real service manuals and how they claim to handle all Datsun Z models from 1899-2050 in one book. Talk about cherry picking and massive omissions I thought Now that the real manuals are available online, I rarely look at them. However, the other day, I got a Climer manual with a parts horde and happen to flip through it just to see if I was missing anything. I might have to eat my critical words, when I found a compilation listing of what seems to be ALL the possible timing options 70-78. “Maybe” they did a bit more than just decide which pages of the FSM’s to include. This was sparked (see what I did there?) by a Z friend with limited Datsun knowledge who was asking me about timing specs for his 71, telling me he looked on line and found really wildly varying numbers and couldn’t decide which one was right. Well, there you go. the list shows a large variation depending. PS. It also has a pretty high quality set of schematics for the various years and transmissions all in one place. I read most of the text! .

Great to have you back on board, Phil. Your how-to articles, posted both here and on the Atlantic Z site, have remained an important resource for all of us Z owners.

Haha! I actually fade in and out of consciousness on the forum. You just happen to catch me at a time when I'm actually on-line and logged in. I spend significantly less time here than I did before the last couple software upgrades. Hope that trend does not continue.

It has been a serious while since I was able to put some actual work in the car. I had some urgent projects on the house to complete, and then I managed to injure my hands, but now I'm back at it again. First, I had to re-install my tank. Since I sold my new fuel tank including rubbers and straps at the Japanclassic, to help somebody get is car running again quickly, I had to wait for a new one to arrive from S30.world. Unfortunately, new straps are currently not available anymore, so i had to go through my set of existing straps to get the best ones for temporary usage: First i had the rubber insulator blocks installed on the tank: And then had it all wrapped to avoid scratches on my brand new tank: And then everything installed. Thanks to my new transmission hoist, this was a lot easier than last time. And last but not least, i had the drain plug installed, which comes with the tank: Next? Front end work. Ever since I had my wobbly bent EU spec front spoiler installed, I was wondering myself which route to go. EU-spec corner valances with the mounting holes for the spoiler, but no holes for the Lower turn signals or other way? After thinking about it for a while, i decided to take the best of both worlds. Some might call it sacrilegious, but I decided to go what appeals the most to my eyes. US spec lower turn signals, but EU-spec front spoiler (which also helps stabilize the car and is not just for the looks). My original thinking was that the US-spec corner valances need to be modified with that "loose-nut" mounting brackets for the lip, but when checking my EU-spec valances, i realized that on the corner valances (unlike the center valance) there is only a simple hole. So the modification of US-spec valances to fit the EU-spec spoiler is simply to drill a 5mm hole in the right place. To get the right place, i made a nice little template from tape. Transferred it from the EU- to the US-valances, and drilled / cleaned it. Unfortunately, I found that on the LH-side somebody had previously drilled holes in the wrong places, for whatever reason. Probably they had some different spoiler installed? I'll leave that to the bodyshop. So everything set to install the spoiler completely? Almost. As you can see, the brackets on my worn out spoilers are quite bent. Some were even completely missing or "fixed" with a bit of backyard-engineering: After I bent all the existing brackets in a more-or-less correct position and installed it back on the car, i have to admit it looks quite good, even though it's still just a completely temporary mock up. I also had my replica US-spec turn signals installed (I will look for some good OEM-ones, as these lack the mandatory E-stamps on it). Which made the iconic, but also a bit ugly, EU-spec turn signals obsolete. Even though I don't think the look is too bad, I always have the feeling that they were just slapped on the car in a hurry, and are held on the bumper with only one nut, so they always look a bit off in their position and are hard to get it right (see previous photo). So I had them removed. The US / Japan spec turn signals always looked much sleeker to me, fully integrated under the bumper. Like intended from their designers. So for the moment, I'll stick to this setup. But I might change back to full EU-spec, if required. During this work, I was also able to fix two previous issues with the front bumper alignment, which is great too. From my point of view, the front-end (everything in front of the radiator support) is completed now. Next I'll focus on some other points. My 2-do list is getting smaller, and I'm happy with every task I can check off. I expect DHL ringing on my door with some nice stuff from Japan every moment, and i have some more things on the way here, so expect another update soon.

I can hardly wait until you start bashing it with a hammer as Zed Head mentioned, then posting the results. Should be a hoot!

This is the lastest version with the stainless steel stub plate and spring clip. eBay UK240z Datsun Series 1 1972 1/2 Fuse Cover / Ash Tray s/ste...Reproduction fuse cover/ash tray for the 240z Datsun Series 1. Reproduced in Acrylonitrile Styrene Acrylate. Comes with asa silver ring insert, lid pins and a stainless steel snuffer plate. Spring...

So it's been awhile since I last posted. Remember that aftermarket ECU? I found out it was bad and causing starting issues and the high idle condition. I happened to find an original replacement ECU from another 1976 2+2 and that solved my problem. I also found that the TPS was missing a screw and out of position on the throttle body. As it turns out, the missing screw had broken off inside the throttle body. I was able to source a used one and installed it. Everything now seemed to work except for the temperature gauge. This was baffling to me since I had replaced it with a new one when I replaced the thermostat and the housing. However, that one was a two piece unit. I tested the temp gauge and wiring by disconnecting the connection to the sensor, temporarily running a wire from the the connection to ground and turning the key to the on position. The gauge needle moved from resting position to max within a few seconds, eliminating the possibility of a defective gauge or wiring. This was reassuring, since I was not looking forward to having to troubleshoot a wiring issue, nor did I want to have to go and try to find another gauge. So, I purchased a new temperature sensor, this time a one piece unit. I had some free time to install it yesterday, and Voila! I once again have a working temperature gauge. Here's the one that didn't work: Here's the one that worked: And the proof:

Oh I'm here every day, taking it all in 😄

Hi Site……If you shave .080 inches from your P90 head, you’ll have to jack up the cam towers .080 inches too. You use the early 280 valves which are approximately .080 inches longer. With this set up, you don’t need the shorter valve seals……they are used when the L24 head uses a cam with .460 or more lift which would squash those seals. If you decide to do that, let me know and I’ll put you in touch with Eiji at Datsun Spirit…..he has everything you need to build that head. He has a ton of Isky Stage III cams also. If you just send him your head, he’ll build you a piece of art. Nice buy for $25.00.

OK, the geniuses @ the Nissan US marketing Dept. came up with a brilliant plan to keep the motoring public's mind on the new Z car still in the incubation stage; we'll restore a bunch of old Z cars and sell them for cheap. They spend a ton on advertising but not too much so there's still a bit of mystery/speculation to the operation. They buy, at great expense, more than they originally thought it would cost, 200ish old Zs. Next they send one of their minions - now the company president - down to the parts dept to get the ball rolling. The guy behind the counter listens to the plan with growing amusement before telling Mr. Minion that there just isn't enough quantity to make his bosses plan work for 10 Zs let alone 200! Minion now worries about how he'll break the news to his boss and still keep his job. Of course an automobile manufacturer can't/won't resume production or ask one of their closely held - forgot the Japanese word - suppliers to resume production for a quantity below 0k say 5000 units of anything. At the time I found it interesting that they wanted me to reproduce and supply parts A-D but weren't interested in already available reproduced parts E-H. Note the nasty-looking washer bottles on the Z Store cars. I learned later that Nissan US had broken the restoration process down to individual operations and had decided that each operation/step of the process would have a max dollar amount assigned to each operation. Don't know if this is old ground but there was NO effort, none, to keep engines and transmissions with the cars from which they came. They had my reproduction ID plates so any # could be stamped.

Route66 et all, Want to clear up a couple of things about the Z Store program. 1 - Those are 280 front fenders that Nissan superseded the 240/260 numbers to in about 1995ish. There are 2 subtle differences that in the end don't amount to a hill of beans. 2 - Poorly run, then and now, Nissan - just last week they announced the closure of 2 factories because nobody is buying their cars - didn't go back into production of parts for the Z Store program. If they did why did they have very little me supply them with so many goodies? However, before he retired I had a friend pretty high up in the Nissan food chain in TN. One day I got a call, Mike, windshields and rear mufflers are available again. I called my local dealer where the guys are long time knowledgeable friends and asked them to do an INQUIRY - that's the official word - on those 2 part #s. Sure enough they were available. I ordered 10 muffs and 5 windshields. The muffs and windshields arrived a few days later but 2 of the windshields were cracked. I had them order 2 more windshields but only one came in as they were again unavailable! What the hell was that?? This was after the end of the Z Store program. Now, the fly in the ointment of my story are slam panels. That is, the horizontal panel visible when the deck lid is open. Nissan had someone reproduce them and they were listed with a special description and part # 240 PATCH PANEL 999M1-M0000. I still have 2 in stock. I have a real strong suspicion that this was a Nissan US deal. I feel this way because Nissan batteries, manufactured by Interstate, have the same 999M1 part # prefix. Cheers

Keith buy a battery bolt and round off two of the corners with a grinding wheel, https://www.amazon.com/Wilmar-W1680C-Battery-Terminal-Bolt/dp/B0076EVKO8

I have an embarrassment of riches when it comes to standard A11 600 000 ECU’s for 280’s. Can’t ever see using them all locally, so anyone interested in picking up a “Few” in the USA where you can distribute them from there to those that need? Asking $50 each. Ask me for volume discounts….. There are a few ZX turbo, both 280 and 300 if that suites your fancy. I can try to build a list. Similar situation with AFM’s…..

Wow. I wish I could nap a set of pistons/seals/springs/washers for $85. If you see another one of those, please send me a quick note to let me know? Nobody will see the pistons after they are installed, so it's not like you're going to be judged on whether that coating exists or not. And I understand about polishing it off... The decision which is better...Keep some of the original failed coating, or just remove it all. Totally understand. If you do decide to look into it, there is probably nothing very special about that coating, It's a black oxide coating on steel. It's a controlled rusting kind of coating. Similar to "gun blue". Any coating shop should be able to reproduce it, but cost prohibitive for a single piece. As for the changeover point between the stamped lettering and the cast-in lettering? In that other thread it appears that point is between 7/70 and 12/70 when they changed the markings from stamped-in to cast-in. I got the chance to mess with a 9/70 car and it had the cast in lettering. So with a sample size of one, I could narrow the date window down to between 7/70 and 9/70. However: 1) It's a sample size of one. 2) I don't know if it was the original brake master on the 9/70 car, and... 3) The 9/70 car was an automatic, and some of the stuff on the autos is different than the manuals from the same month (valve cover for example). All that said, I think your MAY car should have the stamped lettering.

An original early brake master cylinder was also sourced for the restoration. The ultrasonic cleaned it up nicely and I've disassembled it and replaced all the seals with original Nissan/Tokico parts. I just need to bleach the plastic reservoirs so they are nice and white. It should look like this once complete.

I apologize to @Sean Dezart You had bad contact information.

He got back to me late last night (my time in CST). For some reason he had not received my previous email and is not getting notifications from this site so was unaware of the tags in this thread as well as the PMs. Thank you all for helping alert him that I was attempting to get in touch with him, this community is great!

If you haven't got money in deal I'd seriously think about MSA ceramic coated headers. I've got 6to1s on both my cars and very pleased after 10 years of running them with MSAs 2.5" aluminum, I think, to the back bumper. They have other configurations but I like the sound and backpressure of the the 6to1. It's loud but only if you chose. Stay out of it until you get away from neighbors and then who gives a flip. It sounds like a Jake break coming down the small mountains of the Appalachians I have close by. If the guy won't talk to you, it's not going to have a wonderful ending no matter what you pay him. Get out while you can.

I bought an N42 that had been in machine shop jail for a few years, guy never came back for it and I paid maybe $200 for a newly rebuilt head with an oiler cam installed. Put it on and went about 5 miles and the god awfullest noise came from the valve train. Limped back home and found a lash pad had come off. Thank goodness there was no damage and @Jeff 78 280z talked me down off the ledge, told me how to fix it and I've not had to look back. Runs great every since.

Arguing with your machinist is worse than arguing with you doctor, he's always right no matter if he's wrong.

Aside from replacing a part that meets Nissan specs, another factor to consider might be that used Nissan is probably better than new aftermarket.

😎

47 thumbs up for precision shims in Auzzie land. Flat and recessed bottoms.

Hi Gav, I've designed, make and sell them. They are my design, based in the UK and I ship them internationally. My ebay store katodfa on eBaykatodfa on eBayFollow katodfa on eBay. Buying, Selling, Collecting on eBay has never been more exciting!

It says on BAT and other places...🤣 https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/4161254077491653/?ref=browse_tab&referral_code=marketplace_top_picks&referral_story_type=top_picks

Fun to see how the person who did the floor 'repairs' neglected to remove the original set of rubber floor mats before getting busy with the welder ('Hey! What's that smell?') The photo of the dog leg area, taken from the rear wheel housing looking forward, is a sad comment on the lack of effectiveness of the Ziebart rustproofing in this critical area. The seller's photo essay is missing any pictures of the front frame rails. I suspect that this Z is going to need a lot more than just installing a replacement dash!

@Nils Ya, when you press the switch it's supposed to flip into the other position. It sounds like you have a similar issue to what I had originally: I could depress the toggle, it would temporarily switch to the other side, but once I released the switch it would reset back to the original position. Yours sounds a little worse as it isn't even able to temporarily switch. I forget which colors correspond to which, but power comes in through the center connection, and then goes out through the connections on the left or right - one for high beam, one for low beam. Ie, we'll just call the connections 1, 2, and 3, with 1 being high, 2 being the center, and 3 being low. 1-2 would trigger high beams, and 2-3 would trigger low beams. You can test that with continuity. You should never have continuity between 1 and 3. @fredrick that's a spring and a brass cap. It sits in a circular opening in a rocker inside the actual switch housing. The piece is held into the plastic via a roll-pin and is the only part I didn't remove when disassembling the whole thing (I didn't think there was a chance I get it out without it breaking. It's the second picture in the first post This whole setup is quite finicky and I've thought a few times about trying to engineer some kind of replacement, but not sure if the interest would justify it.

Hahaha!! I love you guys! ❤️