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@CanTechZ Thanks!! And a completely unprofitable amount of time later, I have these...

Here's the latest wiring diagram. I moved the horn relay to the interior side of the firewall. It was previously shown out in the engine compartment, but in reality it's actually located on the left side of the interior near the driver's left knee and the hood release pull. Changed the way the alternator and voltage regulators make connection to ground. And made a couple of minor wire color changes. And lastly... Thanks to the help from the folks here, it now has condensers. <V7.0> _obvious 240Z Wiring Diagram 7.0.pdf

Let's see, redline is 7,000 with the yellow zone starting at 6,500 RPM. Keep revving it to 8,000 RPM like you describe and your problem will eventually be solved when you have to replace the engine after it blows up! Oh, when that happens, you might want to select a different engine builder than whoever built this one. There is NO REASON for revving it like you describe, unless you have a death wish for the engine.

I got the SU Carburetors back from the doctor. When they were done in 8/2000, with updated throttle shaft bearings at that time, there were 2 holes inscribed "inject grease". I believe the grease I injected caused the seal to leak. With the idle screws turned all the way out, I couldn't get it to idle below 1000 rpms, and I couldn't balance them. Ztherapy got rid of those older style bearings, re-machined the bodies, and plugged the old grease holes. I actually have to turn down the idle screws now to keep it running, unlike before.

For our Canadian friends... We appreciate it! Yes! Y'all brought back my favorite thread.

You're welcome. I'm glad that my sketch was useful. And great work on the parts. Regarding the "unprofitable time" to make them, the $/hour rate you made is more than offset by the priceless feeling of accomplishment. Unless of course you don't have a day job. Lol

The front end look great! It could easily be changed by the new owner. I suspect if he couldn't figure that out he probably would not be interested in buying a really nice z car.

I had thought about making some slotted rubber pucks for the rocker panel seams but at home I just used the diff or the front cross member and the sub frames were dented anyway. I wonder how well a Z would lift using the four points shown in the Owners Manual. Is that not the ugliest drawing of a Z ever? 1973 Owner Manual. Looks like the summer intern did it.

I told my #1 helper and the look on his face was pure disbelief. "WHAT?"

"Anyone else"... Can't tell you how many of these we saw at our shop... Z owners REALLY need to know the lifting points AND make sure the shop or garage KNOWS where they can lift AND WHERE THEY CANNOT! Also HOW they can lift. That fender deformation is not that easy to repair and do it correctly. Unfortunately it's in a spot that's not that easy to notice and most owners don't see it before they leave the offending shop. Shops are famous for crushing frame rails and the flange under the rocker panels besides ruining front fenders...

I got my Datsun Z Car Series Oil Sending Unit Relocation / Remote Block done! I have only one for sale now, but more are on order. I am pretty proud of this design. Three outlet remote oil sending unit block. Metal 3D printed out of aluminum to look stock and mimics the 240z, 260z and 280z brake proportioning block design. Block has 3 outlets, all are 1/8 NPT. Comes with a custom length -3AN hose and one 1/8 NPT -3AN fitting and either a 1/8 BSPT or 1/8 NPT for the engine block side of the hose. Stock sending unit on a 240z is BSPT, this will require a NPT sending unit like this. [https://zcardepot.com/products/oil-pressure-gauge-sender-240z-260z-280z-70-77?variant=32184292737137](https://zcardepot.com/products/oil-pressure-gauge-sender-240z-260z-280z-70-77?variant=32184292737137) No sending units come with this order. Pictures of sending units are just for reference. Link: https://www.m2racing.com/shop/p/datsun-z-car-series-oil-sending-unit-relocation-remote-block

Glad it was nine years ago instead of nine months. My memory shelf life is not terrible but not fantastic either.

I agree, I wouldn't touch it

I wouldnt touch it. That thing looks great! Supply the OE front lip and whatever else then "happy trails to you..." 😁

The last time I got tires I took the wheels off the car and went to the tire store. They did mount and balance (no outside weights), I took them home and put them back on the car. No issues.

We appreciate it! This whole album was good. You might also remember Hard to Laugh and She's So Young. Both had pretty solid airplay back in the day in Canada.

After replacing the insanely expensive cracked windshield in our 2025 Mazda CX-70 next week, I’m going straight to a shop to get Tera Shield installed on it. ZRAuto. Claims its three layers, clear for ever, blah blah blah. No idea about price yet. If it saves me one windshield it will pay for itself. That’s the brand the place I’m going to uses. I’ve looked online, and found a couple of retailers selling DIY kits in the $200 USD price range. Might try the DIY stuff on the Datsun just to say I did it.

I would think plastic film, regardless of material, would be more prone to being scratched than glass. The mohs hardness scale (used to describe hardness of minerals) lists glass as 6.5 out of 10. A steel knife is 5.5. This means that glass can scratch steel but not the other way around. Unfortunately quartz is 7 so if you are at the beach, be carful how you wipe the sand off your windshield. Sorry for the earth science lesson, I'm a retired geologist.

Nope, you're not imagining...

You'd better correct or explain this. Otherwise, the CZCC members will write you off for good. Specifically: No one (in their right mind) tries to rev their engine up to 6000 rpm at rest. Hot or cold.

I've been using slotted hockey pucks as lift pads for several years. They work quite well. Just make sure that the slot is wide enough to keep the puck from wedging itself onto the pinch weld strip and deep enough so that the load is taken by the rocker and floor panel metal on either side of the pinch strip (rather than by the pinch strip itself).

Motorsport Auto | Z Store Has the complete set shock absorbers and springs. For 625 dollar. when you see costs for a "today modern car" this is VERY VERY SHEAP !! I don't get todays cars they are stupidly expensive and brake down all the time.. and just to change a bulb the whole bumper has to come of???!! Welcome to todays technology it's crazy!!! And then all those stupid gadgets,, what? a auto windscreenwiper?? I DECIDE WHEN TO WIPE .. stupid car.. auto lights? going into a little tunnel.. the light flicks ON, and stay on for about a minute. pure waist of energy.. i know.. but if a million cars do this it's a LOT of waisted energy.. Lights on all day.. stupid waist of energy.. are people blind these days.. lights on should be there for motorbikes only during the day.. just my opinion.

If the mechanical timing sprocket is on hole #3 it won't rev up very good at the top. I set mine on #3 after I rebuilt the motor with new parts. That advances the the explosion somewhat. I run full advance with the ZX distributor on my '72 240. I think it's 17 at idle and 34 degrees at 3,000 rpms. But it won't go much over 6,200 rpms on the street. Why are you reving it to max sitting still? That's completely nuts. No wonder you are constantly complaining. NO OFFENSE INTENDED It's your car, do what you want.

So @Mike , I tried to delete the old obsolete incorrect previous version of the wiring diagram (version 6.0 on page five of this thread), and the edit privileges will not allow me to do so. I'm assuming there is a time limit on how far back in time one can go to edit something? And that post on Feb 11 has exceeded that time limit? Can we change that? Or at least, can YOU delete it if you won't allow me to do so?

Yes, that would indicate a failed to me as well. It failed open circuit. And by the way, for educational purposes... With the new digital meters, it's pretty much impossible to check diodes integrity using the resistance scale. It needs to be on the diode check setting. If you happen to have an old ANALOG meter with a needle sweep, you can often check diodes with the resistance scale. But analog meters, like the dinosaur, are either extinct, or headed that way. So what SHOULD you have seen? Using the diode check setting, you should have seen "OL" in one direction, and some small voltage in the other direction. Something like 0.50 to 0.80 Volts.

I think it looks Great!

Don't know if this has already been posted, but Urban Cowboy FTW.

Never heard of it.. but after listening, i CAN imagine that it stays in my head today.. thanks hahaha!

Finally figured out who played this song I've been hearing. Need to share. For our Canadian friends...

I wouldn't want to split the transmission in the car. I would rather have the whole unit on the bench

Hooking up a vacuum gauge is somthing else that helps find problem. You can get them at chain stores with loaner programs for free.

Shimming the entire crossmember downwards creates a problem because it won't squish the front control arm bushings to hold them in place. It might be possible, but you would have to shim where the crossmember clamps those bushings as well. After thinking about options for a few days, I ended up grabbing a later front diff isolator (I had a spare) and modifying it. I flipped it around to work with my differential which is in the stock position (not moved back like the 72 model). I didn't take many pictures, but basically, I cut off the ears, flipped them over and swapped sides. I was very careful to tack and position them level to each other and in an adjusted (and equal) front to rear orientation. The net result was to lower the differential at this mount location by nearly 1/4", and to remove some of the angle that was manufactured into it. For the propeller shaft, I replaced the front yoke with a new one and got a local shop to balance it. I painted it and the mount: After installing both, and placing spacers between the body and the transmission crossmember, I took some angle measurements: pinion flange, crankshaft dampener, driveshaft tube in that order: I would have liked to have lowered the front of the differential a bit more, but the diff housing was nearly touching top plate of the diff isolator. And, I would have to add a much thicker spacer between the body and the transmission crossmember to get it down to 88.2. The bolts are quite long though, so maybe I will. Now the not so good news. There seems to be quite a large amount of movement of the new transmission yoke inside the tail of the transmission. I am concerned that the bushing in the tail shaft is excessively worn. This picture was concerning when I saw it. Maybe because of excessive wear in the bushing in the tail of the transmission, my driveshaft with improper u-joint angularity was vibrating around much more that it should have. I'll need to check for a wear specification. The 240SX transmission I the one thing on this whole car that I did not fully rebuild! Ugh!

I don't recall seeing any yellow double wire clamps on the car originally - hoops or otherwise, at least not yellow like the plating we see today. I was at Caffeine and Octane and a couple of guys who used to plate stuff as their business commented on my yellow chromate /zinc plating. They said something about how difficult it is to replicate the original yellow plating because the chemicals are different or something like that. They said we all have to put up with the 'really yellow' plating we have now. I am unsure of the accuracy of that statement. Others, especially original owners, should chime in here if possible, but my recommendation would be to go with clear zinc for all the hose clamps on the car because if you go with yellow chromate, you'll almost certainly end up with a much more yellow color than anything you see that originally had a very slight yellow tint. With my examination of the hardware on my car I found few if any exceptions to: clear zinc: all JIS (cross in the head) screws all clamps coil bracket spare tire hold down door latches and catches some lock washer and flat washers - as used with JIS screws I believe the hardware list I uploaded has the color listed. It is not exhaustive, but it is extensive.

The redneck way is to use a long piece of hose. I took a different direction. I went a 0-30 from this brand: https://www.glowshiftdirect.com/elite-10-color-100-psi-fuel-pressure-gauge/ If you want a cheaper alternative: (Wrong part removed) https://www.ebay.com/itm/176895594944?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20200818143230%26meid%3D5a579eb1d3964f638fde15fc3eb8a2e0%26pid%3D101224%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D5%26sd%3D176367258697%26itm%3D176895594944%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2332490%26algv%3DDefaultOrganicWebV9BertRefreshRankerWithCassiniEmbRecall&_trksid=p2332490.c101224.m-1 I can't vouch for the quality, though.

Long time not on here... I had a TON of trouble figuring out how to install them on my 75 Z since the instructions sucked. It is slightly different and I had some other custom parts, but I took this assembly stack picture to document how I put mine together... hope this help.

Hahaha, site, thanks! Yeah, What can i ad.. My 280zx has still the original shocks, springs as it has a registered Dutch NAP of only 120000km on it! (It's also a 1979 280zx) If i needed some new shocks/springs i would contact KONI. I know that they make a very nice (Yellow??) shock absorber specially for the 280zx's.. springs i don't know.. i never really investigated it as my car is still 95+ % original. There is a big topic somewhere on here about KONI, use the search option.. Do you have a t-bar car.. i had 2.. and made a triangle under the hood so the chassis would be stronger, with a t-bar your windscreen breaks especially with the 2+2 chassis. The car body exhibits excessive torsion because of the length of the body. As my car is a slick roof it's not that neccessary to put a triangle in.

time flies guys. My new alternator comes in Monday. I will try just adding the regulator cap to see if that fixes things before I swap out the alternator. I have high hopes

Socorob, Your looking way to deep for the problem. 99% of the time it's a mechanical .Email me , ron@zclocks.com

Haha! I know what you mean. But wow... Was that really NINE years ago? I've been sitting in this same spot for nine years???

Glad to help. Hope you get some good use out of it! Well actually, that's probably not a good sentiment, since it implies you may develop electrical issues that would warrant needing a wiring diagram. So I hope you do NOT get good use out of it! Hahaha!! 😄 In any event, I'm glad to help!

Faulty PCV valve? Not surprised. The quality control for these 'consumable' automotive parts is atrocious (spark plugs may be the only exception). They can cripple a car's performance, but spotting a defective item is difficult. You really need to install your 'tune-up' parts one at a time. If the car's performance collapses, you know you've just installed a new-but-defective part. Moral: Buy only the best -- even though they're just 'routine maintenance' parts. Even then, be alert and be suspicious. The auto business is a low-margin enterprise. Even name-brand 'replacement parts' manufacturers have to skate close to the edge in order to keep their shareholders happy. p.s. They do a much better job when it comes to supplying parts for new cars b/c now there are new-vehicle warranty costs involved and their customers (the auto manufacturer) will pay more to keep those costs under control. In the auto biz, it's all about $$$. I will defer to others when it comes to your fuel pump circuitry. My thesis is all about making the system (your engine, along with its fuel and electrical systems) as simple as can be, so that problems much easier to diagnose. Once that's done, you can add back the complexity (emissions control equipment) as you see fit. If it were me, living in Panama and driving a carbureted 50-year-old classic, I'd limit that to the PCV system. All the rest of the 240Z's emissions control gear, viewed from a 2025 perspective, is -- not to put too fine point on it -- finicky crap.

Remember all the 280s with upward bent front bumpers? ☹️ I had one.

Bruce, Many thanks for all your hard work on this project. Jim

I'd make them pay for the repair

The pics are dead (Cause photobucket sucks!!), but yeah: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/51963-internally-regulated-alternator-trivia-bootstrap-current/ ?

This is a little bit wide of the mark, but how about this Z on an album cover...

For best life and to minimize vibration, drivelines should operate at a slight angle, and not be perfectly inline. The small angle is to ensure that all of the needle bearings will see load and rotate. When I design drivelines for industrial applications I use about 2 degrees of parallel misalignment. That said the likelihood of an automotive driveline being perfectly aligned is probably zero.

Just saw a '71(?) on CNN

The Evil (1978)

There are two in A Nightmare on Elm Street 2: Freddy's Revenge (1985). Maybe 3... That white car in the distance looks promising...