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These came with my January '70 car #957. 1970 original Owners Manuals from, 20th December 1969, 20th March 1970 and 20th July 1970 plus a factory service manual set from 1st November, 1969.

Stay behind the barriers!

A reprint from 03/1997 as well. https://jdm-car-parts.com/products/3-1997-published-1970-datsun-240z-owners-manual-nos-extremely-rare?srsltid=AU7gw4UCH-sGpGn2x4fyiNpfsOjaKUdvHrCVi6Lk-BbfhUpM6NfFUz2h

Some forum info from 2007 about the two variants.

HLS30-029817 was a 4/71 HLS30-029996 was a 5/71 I think these were both USA cars.

A little side project while waiting for parts from Japan (and finding a transmission window) was to repair the passenger side lock cylinder. It just won't work with the key. I decided to take it apart. First, to get it out. There is a very small pin on the back holding the push rod mechanism on. Release that pin, (hold onto it tight as it will drop into the bowels of the door) and slide off the lever. Once that is off a quick pull on the clip and the lock is out. Some thorough cleaning and a dry lube saw it working right as rain. But, I did notice the lock hinge was quite filthy. well, take it out and clean it as well. A quick removal and cleaning had it working perfectly as well. Getting this far meant I had to take the door card off and that revealed a completely hardened outer rubber belt and an inner felt belt that was non-existent. I ordered a new inner felt from MSA and it will be here in Aug, Sept, Oct? Pending on that. I did get the outer strip and it is produced by Precision. None of the holes lined up with my original but that was not a problem. some new holes and it fits nicely. This all meant I had to remove the glass and regulator. Well, it turns out that the little plastic dust covers on the regulator pulley wheels were done. I wondered what they were when I noticed them sitting in the bottom of the door. Thankfully, user scottan from Thingiverse uploaded a file so I could 3d print some out of TPA. A wee little stretch and perfect. I also noticed that the door skin had come free from the internal "reinforcement" beam. I re-adhered it and that went a long way in reducing the buzzy vibration. The big step to reducing that was some 8mil Killmat panels. Now that did the trick. Still waiting on that felt....... Cheers

Well, the noise from the transmission decided the end of driving season for me. I have viewed plenty of YouTube videos regarding FS5W71B 5-speed transmission rebuilds that all started with significant chunks of metal attached to the drain magnet. I wasn't looking for that in this Zed. The takedown was pretty easy. A transmission jack from a previous Toyota Matrix clutch (owner gave it to me for helping) got to crawl out from under the bench to help. Everything came apart without drama. Looking at the back of the motor there was a small amount of oil at the base of the rear main oil seal. No worries, I already have an OEM replacement. Pluck and place that one in when I rebuild. The flywheel looked a little weathered. In the past I have given it a little swirlyloo with a sanding block but this time I had Bills Datsun Shoppe in Clackamas pull the dowel pins and machine a new face. Given that is ready to go, I suppose it's time to address the gearbox. Apparently I have a 1980 Datsun 280ZX 5-speed installed. After opening it, I can verify that the bearing on the counter-shaft center-plate is damaged. Things were pretty straight forward on disassembly. I did notice some variances with snap-ring thickness so I documented them. output shaft -- snap ring (1.40mm) -- speedometer gear -- snap ring (1.20mm) -- - -- snap ring (1.17mm) -- bearing (NSK 6205) -- snap ring (1.39mm) -- - -- NUT (27mm x 1.0 pitch) Right-Hand Thread. I thought it may be a Left-hand thread but this was a right hand specimen. The LHT replacement nut is available (at this writing) so I ordered one in advance, (32354-E9803). What I need is a a RHT, (32354-E9804) and that is no longer available (NLA). I did find a 27mm I.D. x 38mm O.D. shim on Amazon in 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, & 0.5mm thicknesses. I was happy to slap a 0.5mm sprung steel shim on there, clock it 180 degrees and call it a day but... I found a manufacturer called Kameari Performance and for the extravagant sum of $49.99, I was able to purchase a "71B Transmission Main shaft Rear Nut (Clockwise Rotation type) for Datsun 240Z 260Z 280Z 280ZX Skyline Cars." - 21-KAME-125. I can confirm today that "El supernut" fits. I am not sure where this gearbox fits in the scheme of things, but it is tagged as a 1980 280ZX FS5W71B. The teeth counts are exactly what a user at Ratsun.net posts for the '81-'83 280ZX box's (pictured below) This gives me ratios of the following: 1st 3.062 2nd 1.858 3rd 1.308 4th 1.000 5th 0.745 R 3.026 From what I see in the literature, this is indeed the ratios found in the 1981-1983 transmissions. The 1980 is reported to have a different 5th gear ratio closer to 0.80 (0.773). The part that is different from my understanding is the later FS5W71B's from 1981-1983 all used a left hand thread main shaft nut. Mine is a right hand thread (like the earlier gearboxes.) 🤷‍♂️ Anyhow, new roller bearings, needle bearings, balk rings, check balls, d etent springs, breather, o-rings and oil seals should see it back to useful service. EDIT: A look back at the picture of parts above, reminded me of the front cover shim. When I disassembled the transmission initially I measured the tolerances and made a note of something that seemed off. According to the service manual for 1980, my counter gear front bearing was sitting 3.92mm proud of the transmission case (Measurement"A"). This would mean that I am just 4-steps away from the the smallest shim of 0.1mm. The case had a 0.2mm shim in place. Not sure what to make of that BUT, it was the the counter shaft (center) bearing that failed. Trans_Rebuild_FEB2012 Marked with orders.pdf

Love the "Do Not Strike" sticker. That was the only way I was able to get the old Ford starters to engage back in high school. We called it a technical tap.

I'm not convinced that you have an ignition problem. First, you said that the spark at the points is weak and intermittent. My reaction that it "Good. Your condenser is working." In other words, you don't WANT a spark at the points because any spark there will eat up your points. The whole reason for the condenser is to suppress the spark on the low voltage (the points side) of the coil in order to extend points longevity. Don't consider a weak spark there a problem. Consider it a benefit. Second, you say you're getting 8.5 Ohms between the open points and ground. I do not necessarily believe that is a problem either. What you could be measuring is the load to ground of all the other things that are tied to that same B/W wire elsewhere in the car. Such as..... Your fuel gauge, your water temp and oil gauge, the tach, your choke light, etc. I could easily be convinced that all that stuff in parallel works out to your 8.5 Ohms. So... Have you looked for spark at a spark plug? A nice hot spark there would be desirable!! If you have good spark at the plugs, then have you put a timing light on it

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