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Arrived today. Unpacking and inspection. Very nice reproduction headlight covers.

Well maybe that's because you don't know what to look for, it also is not a broad statement it is a very specific statement. Anyone that has actually worked on repairing rust knows that that dime sized spot of rust that has popped through from inside is in fact 4-5" in dia. if not larger. Lets start on the deck lid that you think is perfect, that 3" piece of visible rust actually goes from the D/S fender to the middle of the deck lid as seen by the swelling between the spotwelds and that means almost certainly the vertical support for the deck lid will need repair as well. This common area of rust started on the inside behind the show panel and has eaten its way through to the outside all the way across the back of the car and I can tell you from experience that is a difficult, expensive repair. The rust in this area around the gas filler door will be much larger than it appears to be and will require the spot welds to be drilled out and the box behind removed then the damaged area will need to be cut out and replaced with a custom fabricated piece of 20ga sheet with the exact compound curves, body line crease and bead rolled lip the gas door nests into. And here, replacing the visible damage on the firewall is the least of your problems, the fresh air chimney and the bottom of the chamber behind the firewall will need extensive repair first before the firewall replacement even begins. @Snaponfitz, in no way am I saying you are trying to sneak one by us or hiding anything, not at all. I just don't think you will get the kind of money for your car that was mentioned at the start of this thread. I would love to take this car on as project, it has great potential.

Yeah I'm not really understanding the hype. It's a decent foundation, but there are signs of rust all over the car, just not many closeups of it. Though some parts of the body have been buffed to be shiny, it will still need a repaint...especially once the trim moldings are removed and the body damage is sorted out. It will likely still need a minimum of floors, more than likely frame rails too. Not sure how bad the rust goes on the passenger inner fender. I have a hunch the passenger side has more rust damage that's hiding. It's been sitting for a long time, will need brakes gone through, clutch system, all rubbers and bushings. The carbs sound like they were cleaned enough to start, but will still need to be completely gone through to be a driver. Front valance looks damaged, turn signal busted, seats need to be completely rebuilt, dash has a few cracks, rear bumper tweaked, etc. I can go on and I know I'm sounding like I'm being really picky for a 50 year old Datsun, but for $10k I would want something that isn't going to require as much of a restoration as a "rust bucket" that still needs roughly the same amount of repair as the ones listed in these ads: I'm not criticizing his price, everyone is entitled to ask what they want for what they're selling. It's the responses that this should be a $20k+ car that have me confused. Maybe if he sells it internationally...? The car in this post has been for sale for at least a couple weeks now locally, if it was that good of a deal it would've been gone quickly. I don't see a lot of difference between the one being offered for sale on this thread and the ones posted above that just sold recently (green earlier this month, yellow one this morning).

Yes the correct pedal is part of the whole set up. In all the cars I've seen, the pedal with the extra tab were left in the cars. No need to change that out when they removed the cable and lever assembly. Later models do not have the tab. My car had the bracket fixed under the dash where the cable sheath locks into place. From there the ball end of the cable hooks to the pedal tab, pulling above the fulcrum engaging the throttle.

I have several locks that need attention and would really appreciate some guidance on how take them apart. Thanks.

Haha thanks! So I know Mark and he is only three hours away. Been bugging him all afternoon via text about his rails and his drainage setup.. He had a lot of good suggestions and I have a couple of thoughts too. Definitely adding some type of drainage path though. Good thing everything is just clamped in right now ....

Here are the injector screens, I guess they are too small.

Kats, We are very privileged to be able to see 'Maruhi' (Secret) factory internal documentation such as this. Thank you! This was the testing that Takei san was involved in, yes? I see the name Takahashi on the report too. Datsun Netherlands was clearly a great influence on all this as Nissan's European base. I had heard in the past that Nissan had a lot of feedback coming from Datsun Netherlands with regard to product refinement and development, and Nissan took it seriously. Lots of sightings in period of mysterious Japanese cars on Japanese temporary-export 'Carnet' plates whizzing around on European roads. Some of them full of electronic measuring instruments and men with clipboards taking notes... For me, the 'Entreposto' Portuguese market 240Zs were the prettiest and nicest-equipped of all the Export market versions.