Jump to content

ConVerTT

Members
  • Content Count

    393
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    12

ConVerTT last won the day on February 13 2020

ConVerTT had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

329 Excellent

2 Followers

About ConVerTT

  • Rank
    Active Member

Contact

  • Map Location
    Canada

Recent Profile Visitors

1,700 profile views
  1. Been there Ryan... My thoughts - cut it out and replace it while you are still on the jig. Check out my old thread - start from the bottom of page 5... Look at the bright side...your metal fab skills are about to go through the roof 😉 https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/61483-240z-fabbing-new-front-rails/?&page=5#comments
  2. Nice work Ryan! Way to stick with it! So i would cut out all the rust on the jig, fix the floor and rockers and then go to the rotisserie personally. The jig holds everything straight. I did each rocker and the front rails separately, but I am certain I could have cut more away at once. The floors basically attach to the trans tunnel and the inner rocker. I had patched my inner rockers but once I got it on the jig I actually cut it all the way out and replaced it. The frame didn't budge. Same thing when I did the front rails. Have fun!!!!
  3. Go Ryan go! Super Glad that post helped somebody! 😉🙏
  4. Haha - thanks a bunch. The pivot is at 41 inches when the rig is on 5 inch casters. Cheers
  5. No kidding. You'd think it was a British car ....
  6. The non-vented hood is of course correct on an original 240z. But if the car is a going to be a resto-mod, then do whichever you prefer. I have both hoods for my 72 project. I haven't decided either - I might paint them both before deciding ....
  7. Agreed @Namerow! But I have to admit that my first thought was "what the hell is Flexible Texture Material? Cheese Whiz?"
  8. Not sure! That would require me to sort through said mad stacks ...?
  9. Looks great! I don't know if I should tell you this now but ... (...I have stacks of those panels....mad stacks yo ....) because "garage sale"
  10. Haha - Thanks! No I am just an amateur. I basically bought the same unit as the guy who showed me how to weld. It's a Miller 141 - relatively cheap, 120 V but best to run on a 20A circuit, MIGs sheet metal through 3/16 plate (would be fine on 1/4" too). Uses 0.024 or 0.030 wires.
  11. Pulled all the fuel and brake lines and finally got to flip it all the way upside down. It will be so luxurious to finish up the rust repair and seam welding like this …???
  12. A lot of truths in this thread ?
  13. Thanks! The hourly rate? I'd starve ?. But I figure it probably took me 40 hours - the next one would be a lot faster - maybe 20 hours.
  14. So I repositioned the car a bit on the rotisserie to get better balance. It was fine side to side, but I could feel the weight increase as I rolled it to the vertical position - meaning that it was bottom heavy. Or the center of gravity of the shell was too low relative to the rotating axis. So I moved the car up about 2". For reference: The mounting bolts are 3 inches below the axis of rotation in the front and 5 inches below the axis of rotation in the back. The car is still very slightly bottom heavy (on purpose - safer) but she rolls over well by hand (with one hand) or wit
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.