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David F

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David F last won the day on February 28

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About David F

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    Austin, TX

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  1. David F

    Home Built Z 'Full video build'

    Yes, I kept the sun visor...just could not force myself to (re) drill holes in the A-pillar to mount it. Plus, my son did not like it and we rebuilt the truck so he could drive it to high school...which he did. Really sorry, Jeff, for contributing to taking your thread off topic. Been following your videos from the beginning and you are doing a great job.
  2. David F

    Home Built Z 'Full video build'

    Oh good, were sharing photos of trucks! Here are my two classics: From this... To this... And the other one yet to receive beauty tips...
  3. David F

    window defrost grid

    Good luck...hope you figure something out. I'm the same boat with my car and the rear defroster is the only non-functioning part on my '72.
  4. David F

    '71 240 Clutch Pedal Parts

    I probably have one or two of the bushing the OP is looking for? Please PM me...I am terrible remembering this stuff, so if you want it, keep trying to get a hold of me. It also looks like he clevis pin hole needs to be welded up a re-drilled.
  5. David F

    Home Built Z 'Full video build'

    Aha, missed that one. 😎
  6. David F

    Home Built Z 'Full video build'

    Late reply to one of your painting videos where you attempt to ‘cut” off a paint run. Instead of trying to slice off the run, the preferred method is to scrape it off. Put a small piece of tape covering the razor blade edge at each end of the blade...so the end of the blade does not dig in. Then hold the blade perpendicular to the body/paint run and gently scrape off the run. Color sand flush, polish, perfection.
  7. David F

    Rear Bumper Installation questions

    When I adjusted the bumper on my '72, I simply added a SS washer or two between the bumper and bracket. First, I straightened the bumper mounting tabs and bracket to what I thought seemed correct and best fitting of bumper and bracket. The holes on the quarter panel were sufficiently oversized as to not cause fitment issues to the best of my recollection. For my car, one side need the spacer washers, the other side was fine. Also, I am positive my bumper is not the original bumper and that a small rear end tap had occurred sometime in the past prior to my ownership...so, your mileage will vary.
  8. David F

    Automatic trans gear selector handle

    I have one along with ALL the other parts related to the automatic trans...including the transmission in excellent working order. Make an offer plus about $15 shipping. If memory serves, the chrome end cap ring probably does not look much like chrome any longer.
  9. I easily removed auto and replaced with manual on '72 with engine staying put. I cannot imagine that the '73 would be any different.
  10. David F

    SS Bumpers from Vietnam

    Oh, it will probably rust. I am guessing the bumpers are SS plated steel. Just like the "stainless steel" grills you can buy at Walmart or Sam's Club. Still, the prices is attractive and my OEM bumpers are way less than perfect. Edit: As previously mentioned, I would be concerned that the stainless steel scratches very easily. After all, chrome is way harder than stainless.
  11. David F

    Datsun 240Z Right Hand Mirror

    Website says they are $125/ea
  12. David F

    Ignition issue and resolution story

    Finally was able to drive the car significantly since the distributor change out. New problem is severe missing at part throttle cruising...even the tack jumps around. Disconnecting the vacuum advance solved the problem. I used the dual points advance and am now thinking I need to use the single point advance.
  13. David F

    Ignition issue and resolution story

    Yep, no wire. Thanks
  14. Wanted to share a story related to the ignition system of my 5-speed converted '72 automatic 240z: Shortly after I purchased my car, I converted from automatic to 5 speed. Left the dual points distributor alone except for changing the points, condenser, and cap. Car ran ok, but I had to dial in a lot of timing advance to keep the engine from backfiring through the carbs when cold. Car ran seemingly fine all winter with an occasional misfire condition in warmer weather with warmer engine temp...never could figure out why. Fast forward many months and I decided it was time to get rid of the dual point distributor. So, I found a used single point distributor on Ebay and did a complete cleaning/refurbish. My vacuum advance from the dual point setup seemed to operate better, so I used it. Dropped in the distributor, and engine ran horribly with severe missing, rough idle, low power, knocking noise, etc. Sometimes the symptoms went away and the engine ran smooth with a higher idle. Uh oh, what did I do/what's wrong? Messed with it for a few days before the light came on...I grabbed the distributor while the engine was running and wiggled it. Yep, when I wiggled it, it would change from running poorly to running well. Pulled the distributor and cleaned/sanded all the mounting bolt points. That did the trick. No more running like pooh, no more missing, no more knocking noise...Just smooth running. And the best part...cold start drivability is so much better. Just wanted to share in case others have similar issues.
  15. David F

    Sanden ac compressor on a 280zx mount

    I am adding a/c to my '72 and just starting the process. I too looked at Ebay for the Sanden 508 compressor and noticed that most, if not all, of the compressors were "Sanden style"...meaning knockoff's. I don't think you are going to get a real Sanden 508 for much less than $199. Your bracket setup looks good, but I decided to just make a bracket from steel plate and the Sanden universal bracket arms that Vintage Air sells. I believe the Sanden will run R-12, but if you go R134a, you need to flush the system and the oils will not mix and the mineral oil will pool at the low spots and reduce efficiency. Others have covered this well. Also, might be worth upsizing the condenser if space permits as R134 is not as efficient as R12 in shedding latent heat, so you need all the condenser you can get. Installing an electric pusher in front of the condenser will help as well. Just because you open the system does not mean you need to change the drier (but you should if changing refrigerants). Pulling a vacuum on the system will boil the moisture out unless the ambient temp is really low. Long vacuum periods will ensure all the moisture is pulled out.
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