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David F

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David F last won the day on February 28 2018

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About David F

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    Austin, TX

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  1. Thanks, I have read that write-up and want to avoid all the added wires/relays and oil pressure sensor under the hood. I think with the referenced controller, at the worst, I would have to run one wire to the coil. The rest would be existing right behind the radio.
  2. I am having fuel pump issues on my 72 Z. I have three fuel pump, one old OEM and two new look-a-likes. The two new pumps pumped a few hours then quit. Sit them on the bench a while and they may pump again for a short duration. Anyway, I have three pumps that I don't trust, so I purchased an electric pump (stock carbs). But, I have not installed the electric pump yet because I have not decided how I want to ensure the pump stops when the engine dies. So, I found this: http://www.revolutionelectronics.com/Fuel_Pump.html Has anyone used the above controller. Looks like a good solution and super easy to install. I would mount it behind the radio.
  3. This past Monday, I had a locksmith rekey the hatch lock to match the rest of the locks. They took it apart and reassembled with no adverse cosmetic effects to the as cover. Some times, I have recognize that experience is the way to go, so I did not attempt the rekeying myself. Took 30 minutes and cost $45.00
  4. Update: Last night, tach was not working. This morning, tach is working seemingly normal (not sure if/how accurate). So, cracked solder joints at tach? Poor connection somewhere. I guess I am going to have to find the time to troubleshoot in detail...I just hate getting under the dash.
  5. Wow, that seems crazy. Yesterday, I had to pull my manifold as one of the air tubes rusted through. Time to cut them off and weld shut. Not even going to try and remove them.
  6. David F

    Seat restoration

    Thanks, the seat back “Brackets” were virtually rust free even where no plastic was found. Your right, no way of telling if old seat covers were original, but vents were proper, horse hair, one layer of glue as would be expected in places, etc.
  7. David F

    Seat restoration

    I am in the process of recovering my original seats (covers) on my '72. The Driver's side did not have the clear plastic pieces, but the passenger side had them on the seat back only. I am assuming the pieces were removed at one time or another. Not really sure of the purpose.
  8. Qz16: My plan is not original to me and has been done before, see below:
  9. Nice work. I have been planning to install the Gen2Mini for some time now and also plan to keep the Z control panel. But, I will retain the original levers and simply mount the new control mechanism on brackets that are operated by short connecting rods from the original levers. I also want to use the Z rotary fan control, but not sure that will work. If I have to use Vintage Air's rotary fan speed control, I hope I can find a way to mount the original control knob. Good job...just goes to show there is more than one solution to most problems.
  10. I watched most of the build and enjoyed the process. I think the stock interior had to go as they pushed the engine well into the cabin...most of it is behind the front axle. His next build is repairing/modding a totaled GTR. I'll watch.
  11. I know the coils have resistance, I simply meant it was the correct coil that requires a ballast resistor and thus does not have built in “additional” resistance to protect the points. the coil that has been in car for past year or more and several thousand miles with working tach...and the one the tach died on measures; 1.3 ohms (or up to 1.8 ohms...reading is difficult to get stable and seemed to settle on 1.3 ohms) on primary coil and 8.23 k ohms secondary coil.
  12. Thanks. But, ballast wires not disturbed between working and not working. Jumper across ballast makes not difference. I think the voltage sensing circuitry in the tach might be the culprit.
  13. Appreciate the offer. Sure would like to figure out why the one I have is acting up. But, if no luck, I might take you up on your offer. I have had the tach out once before to change out the lamps. Long ago I labeled the coil wires + and - so I would not have to worry about swapping them inadvertently. So, I have them installed as labeled when the tach worked fine.
  14. Tach worked fine on new coil for months. Re-installed OEM type coil and no difference. Neither coil had any internal resistance and requires the ballast resistor. I can provide resistance measurements across the primary winding.
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