David F

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David F last won the day on February 28 2018

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About David F

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    Austin, TX

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  1. I did a hybrid of above. I cut the tubes, pinched them closed and welded the pinch together.
  2. The pump eccentric is fine. As I mentioned, when I pull the non working pumps, they don’t pump when operated by hand.
  3. One was a Delphi MF0139 from Rock Auto. The other was a Spectra Premium from Autozone A1203MP (this pump was identical to the Delphi regardless of what a Google search indicates). Both pumps were similar in appearance to original (i.e. screw top). Both initially worked fine for about 15 minutes...then stopped pumping. Pulled pump operated arm, nothing to very little suction.
  4. That's it, the flow guide valve. It is not connected to the crankcase, so it is simply venting to atmosphere. It is connected to the tank vent line and air filter box. I recall cleaning it up a few years ago, maybe it is stuck again. So, have purchased two replacement mechanical pumps and neither worked longer than 30 minutes out of the box. So, I kept the marginal working one and added the electric. So, what is the best mechanical pump to purchase and from whom?
  5. When I purchased the car and went through it get it running, I cleaned the carb heat thermostat and got it working. Since then, I have completely forgotten about it. Incidentally, it is usually the rear carb that acts up. I will look into bypassing the carb heat and see if things are improved. Yesterday, I pulled the tach signal from my electric pump controller (this way, it still primes on key on, but does not run while engine is running) and relied on my mechanical pump. I drove the car 200 miles without the flooding issue. But, I was not struck in traffic. Outside temp was 80 degrees. I was reminded that the engine misses under heavy acceleration when running on mechanical pump only. When electric pump is on, no missing. So, it seems I need something in between.
  6. I did just that, the fuel is expanding to the point it is at the top of the filler neck and escaping past the cap.
  7. Heat shield in place, float level set via 12 turn down method, plugs are good color, and runs fabulously when not trying to flood out. Problem seems to occur when temp creeps above half-way on gauge
  8. '72 240. Been having a periodic problem of flooding while at idle. Symptom is fuel bowl overflowing usually while sitting in traffic or after returning from short engine off period. My initial thought was that my 3psi electric pump was overloading the needle valves. But, this does not explain why it runs fine normally. So, this past weekend, I filled the tank (probably more full than usual and after the car sat in the sun for a few hours I smelled fuel and noticed fuel spilling out from the filler (with cap in place). So, I disconnect the vapor valve under the hood and blew through the vent line back to the tank...it was free flowing. So, my theory is hot fuel create vapor pressure that is overwhelming the carb needle valve during idling (low fuel demand). I am in the process of testing my theory by disconnecting the vent line from the valve (i.e. tank open to atmosphere). Main question is do you think I am on the right track and second, how is that valve suppose to work (can it be tested)?
  9. What do you mean "bend the arm" for testing. Do you mean simply move the arm up and down? My gauge responds similarly as it reads empty with just less than half tank remaining. To me, it will be an easy fix by actually bending the float arm down so the gauge thinks there is more fuel in the tank.
  10. Update (finally): This weekend (now that the weather is getting cooler in Central Texas), I installed the electric fuel pump and electronic controller. I left the marginal mechanical pump in place. It all works beautifully so far. I cannot hear the pump running, car started after sitting a few weeks without starter fluid. The only issue I ran into was the pump was not getting power. Turns out someone before me had left the pump lead (green wire) disconnected at the splice point under the glove box. So, the only wire I had to run was a tachometer signal wire from the negative side of the coil. I simply followed the main engine bay harness. I though about removing the mechanical pump and actually purchased a blank-off plate. But, I like the original look with the pump in place.
  11. I found the lines and brackets. You can have them for shipping cost. PM me or I might not remember to follow through. Or better yet, email: davidf@whiteconst.com
  12. Hmm, I remember the hook screw as a machine screw. Oh well. You would think I could remember seeing how often I have to replace the hook. Almost anytime someone rides in teh car with me, they break the hook yanking on the seat belt.
  13. My opinion is that who really pays attention to what the odometer reads on an old classic vehicle with a 5 digit odo. So, go ahead and do whatever you want and don't feel guilty about it. Just make sure that when someone asks (buyer, etc) if the mileage is accurate tell the truth and say no. Shoot, in Texas the titled mileage on old cars is stated as "exempt"...even the state knows the information/mileage cannot be relied upon. In full disclosure, when I restore a vehicle, I hook a drill motor to the speedometer and advance it to the next 1000 mile increment. Much easier for me to remember the mileage at restoration completion. Is this unethical? BTW, when I purchased my '72 Z, the odometer was not working. How long had it been this way? What is the exact mileage...I did not care. Almost forgot...replaced the speedometer/odo so really the reading has nothing to do with the actual mileage. Was it unethical to replace the speedometer? If no, what is the difference in resetting the one you have.
  14. I may have saved a set from my '72. I just recently threw away the auto trans in perfect working order. I also have the shift handle mechanism, etc. But, I will have to check as I may have thrown away the hoses/lines. No idea about the brackets...might have left them installed. PM me.
  15. Ah, true on the Z engines. I was mostly thinking of my BMW cylinder heads where the cam journals/towers cannot be removed as they are part of the casting.