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rturbo 930

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rturbo 930 last won the day on August 14 2018

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About rturbo 930

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  1. While I am hardly an expert on the topic, I know enough to know that's exactly what you don't do when breaking in a motor. I'd be questioning the credibility of the engine builder if he told me that, and would likely ignore his instructions.
  2. You registered two weeks ago, youve got 14 posts, and you're asking us how one would steal a Z?
  3. Looks like Auto Panel Solutions in the UK makes a panel for that, although it doesn't look to be identical, if that's what your standard is. https://www.facebook.com/Auto-Panel-Solutions-418351785395614/
  4. It'll probably say somewhere in his build thread here: https://forums.nicoclub.com/2009-240z-build-t403961.html
  5. It would probably just drop down onto the stock diff mount crossmember since you still have to bolt that in since it's also part of the forward control arm mounts.
  6. I would never put a solid diff mount on a street car. It would help if you told us why you can't use the OEM mount and what your car's setup is. A popular option is the Ron Tyler diff mount, a version of which can be found for sale here: https://www.technoversions.com/DiffMount.html
  7. What year is that 280 pedal box? Might be important to note given that the 280Z saw a lot of changes for the 77 model year, I don't know if the pedal box was one of them.
  8. What kind of car are you looking for, in terms of condition? Perfect and original? What kind of repairs are you willing to do? Although there a few questionable spots, particularly the rear bumper, I really didn't think that one was very bad, and it's unlikely you'll find one that needs nothing.
  9. See my reply above since I've edited it since you posted. Also, I've had a couple Zs, and they don't necessarily have perfect body gaps. The area between the front door and the fender right at the top seems like it has a tendency to be larger relative to the rest of the body line there. Maybe the front fender was messed with, who knows. Go see the car in person with someone who knows what they're looking at. Edit: However, that rear bumper should not be that crooked. I'd look hard at that area.
  10. You're comparing a 240 to a 280 which has bigger rails. I'd need a better photo to say for sure, since there does look to be weld toward the front of the 280, but forward of that part, the rails are clearly stock, you can see the flange of the factory rail and it looks to be untouched. Unless there is a seam where the light is hitting the rail, then I'm left to conclude the rails are stock. Again, better photos are needed. As for the paint, I think it's just how the sun is hitting it. it matches above the pinstriping, and if you look down at the bottom of the dogleg, just above the body
  11. Frame rails look standard to me. Need a lot more photos to really get a good sense of the car's condition but from what you've posted it looks fine to me. I do see a patch at the front of the driver's floor, and it does looks like there's a weld seam on the frame rail in that area, but I'm not sure if that's what it is since I only see one weld, and no actual patch. Also looks to be a patch on the passenger side under the seat. Need better photos of that area.
  12. I would think carefully about any mod that requires drilling holes or cutting. The spoilers will require drilling holes in your hatch, and the L28ET swap may also, since putting a later 5 speed in an early car typically requires additional clearance at the front side of the shifter cut out. Hard to say what else will be necessary to run wiring, mount intercooler, oil cooler, additional gauges, etc.
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