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rturbo 930

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rturbo 930 last won the day on August 14 2018

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  1. The emblem holes will be different, and as mentioned, maybe some extra tabs for the fender liners. There's two kinds of 280Z doors, 75/76 and 77/78. 75/76 are pretty similar to 240z doors, but I think there may be some slight differences in mounts for the arm rests (not sure, never checked), and of course the door beams. 77/78 doors are completely different, and while they may bolt up, the shape of the door jamb in 77/78 cars is different, and IIRC even the latches are different. I wouldn't bother with them if you have an earlier car.
  2. As I recall, the beams in orange were added in the later cars to deal with the added weight of the larger fuel tank, and probably the general increase in weight the cars had by then. Earlier cars didn't have them, and it's possible you could remove them without consequence. I wouldn't necessarily recommend it, but I'm not convinced the structure would be any worse off than a 70-76 car.
  3. First one is BMW Monte Carlo Blue. Second one I'm quite certain is factory 115 blue. It's a fairlady owned by a member here, although he's more active on instagram https://www.instagram.com/autootaku/
  4. What a fantastic car to start with. I doubt there's many original cars left in that condition. You might try this process to remove the yellowing from the plastics, such as your expansion tank, since you've got the early plastic one. Not sure what differences there might be in the plastic you have to work with versus what was used in the video.
  5. It has definitely been worked on. Welds near where it slopes up toward the roof, flat surface. Home made patch panel, I'd say.
  6. How bad are your front frame rails? Unless they're really damaged, I'd leave them alone, or just fix them in spots. It's a large job. If they're only rotted in the usual spots, then I'd just repair those spots. When removing major structural components of the car, like the engine bay rails, or the rockers, it's generally a good idea to add bracing to keep things in place.
  7. If it's only surface rust, no metal replacement is necessary. Metal replacement is only needed when the metal loses structural integrity.
  8. I don't think they can. As far as I know the reason that all the new cars have goofy proportions is due to safety regulations, resulting in the tall, bloated body, and short, small windows. I hate the trend too, but I think it's here to stay. Regulations have ruined cars, and car design, and have been increasingly so for 45 years.
  9. That's about what I expected to find. Some rust damage, but nothing major. I agree with Patcon, do some spot repairs and move on. You should do the same with the rust on your frame rails as well to see how much damage is really there. My suspicion is that they can be patched, rather than replaced, which would be significantly easier.
  10. I've never done frame rail or rad support repairs, but looking at your rad support, I'd probably just remove the piece on the backside where it's rusted, repair that, and replace it. No sense removing the entire structure if you don't need to. What's wrong with the frame rails? They're not obviously badly rusted in any of the photos you've posted. Given that you were looking at replacing the entire rocker structure for what looks like minor rust, I feel I should ask. If you can repair a panel relatively easily with a spot repair vs replacing the whole thing, I'd generally lean toward that. Sometimes replacing the whole panel makes more sense, but rockers and frame rails aren't that easy, especially given that you don't seem to have prior body repair experience. Also consider that aftermarket body panels require fitting, and the quality of them varies - I'd try to stick to original metal when possible.
  11. Yeah, yours look better than mine do. I would start with wire wheeling them to see what remains when loose rust, paint, etc, is removed, but broadly, I think they look fine. If you think there's rust between them (beyond surface rust that you'll find in any seam in the body) then you could drill out the spot welds and split them enough to knock the rust out and treat the seam, but I'm not seeing any reason to do anything more than wire wheel + rust converter right now, certainly not replacing the entire inner and outer sills. The spot in the second photo looks like the worst bit, and it doesn't look that bad. Could spot repair it if the pitting is bad enough, but I'd probably just leave it.
  12. Take a better photo (clear and focused with good lighting) of the rust on top of your sills. Is it just a bit of pitting and surface rust? You're talking about replacing the entire inner and outer rocker, which is a major job, for what looks like fairly minor rust. I think your proposed repair is overkill for the amount of damage. I would just spot repair holes and serious pitting as needed, and treat the rest with rust converter.
  13. Hey, those cars look familiar! I follow you on IG. Good to see you here. The yellow car looks like it's really clean, so should be a fairly easy restoration. What's the build date/VIN on it?
  14. 158k miles would mean nearly 20k miles a year for 8 years straight - I'd consider that unlikely, albeit not an impossibility.
  15. Looks like a great starting point, and good on you for saving it from being parted out.
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