rturbo 930

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


rturbo 930 last won the day on August 14 2018

rturbo 930 had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

66 Excellent

About rturbo 930

  • Rank
    Custom User Title


  • Map Location
  • Occupation

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
  • About my Cars
    theyre rusty.

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. rturbo 930


  2. I had a '72 parts car built about 11/71 with vertical defrost lines, so yes, that sounds correct.
  3. What on earth are you talking about? It appears to be better than 99% of Zs (including mine) with fairly mild and typical rust. It's just massively overpriced for what you get. Unsafe to drive? I didn't see a single bit of rust that had actually gone through! Realistically it's probably worth about 3-4k in this market, depending where you are. In the rust belt, that's a good car.
  4. Owner is on crack. A few grand, tops, if you ask me.
  5. Because the comments can influence the results of an auction.
  6. I think someone added that, as I'm not aware of any Z from the factory having two switches there. It's normally either a blank, or a cig lighter. I believe only 72-73 Zs had the cog lighter, and your '71 should have had a blank.
  7. Only 77 and 78 had the space saver spare.
  8. I would love to see that engine in a Z.
  9. At this point, you're basically just spamming the forum. Stop it.
  10. All of my 240Z doors stick out at the bottom rear of the door. I'm fairly convinced it's because the door structure is fairly weak, and the door has sagged/warped. My 280Z doors, with the big side impact beams, don't have that issue.
  11. I can't think of a single reason why they'd need to do a burnout, or how that could be helpful in diagnosis or testing.
  12. The rust on the bottom of the A pillar is really what has me concerned. Also, with that hole below the quarter window letting water in, I imagine the inside has more issues than it would typically. I don't think this chassis is worth saving if you're going to pay someone else to do the work. However, it could be a good chassis to learn to work on, if you are inclined to do so, and if successful, you'll have a car that you can say you built yourself at the end of it all.
  13. Are you talking about the engine bay rails or the ones under the floor? Post up some pics so we can see what the damage is. Dented up frame rails under the floor are so common I don't think I'd even bother fixing them unless they're really bad if they aren't rusted out.
  14. I got mine when I was in HS and immediately pulled it apart. I would strongly suggest you don't do that. Keep projects manageable, and try to keep the car running and driving as much as possible. It is far easier to be motivated to work on a car that you can drive than one that you can't. How much metal work does it need? If it needs enough that it really needs to be blown apart to be fixed properly, I think I would just restore the rest of the car while keeping the car running, and then when it comes time to do the shell, you won't have a million things to do, and you can put it back together quickly when the work is done since the other components are already restored and simply need to be reinstalled.