Jump to content

german240

Members
  • Content Count

    104
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

german240 last won the day on December 5 2017

german240 had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

16 Good

About german240

  • Rank
    Active Member

Contact

  • Map Location
    Germany

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Hey guys, I tried three times to lock the side shaft bolts (wheel side) in place, using loctite and new spring washers. After a couple of hundred miles, they loosen up again. Did someone have the same issue in the past and how did you fix this? Is there a certain orientation of the side shaft flange neccessary? Space is tight, but I managed to fasten the nuts with a long extension ultimately. Maybe they hold better now. BR
  2. @240260280 I already did this in post #19 😉
  3. Oil viscosity doesn't affect wot performance at all as it only determines the mixture during the first 1-3s of acceleration. Thin oil =faster rising piston = less vacuum to draw fuel = leaner Thick oil = richer
  4. I think it is incredible easy to get the SUs "working". However, fine tuning is difficult! What I did so far: 1. Data logging with SM needles (AFR/Rpm with Zeitronix ZT2) -> too lean from 3000 rpm on, mixture nut had to be dropped by 4.5 turns as a base setting. I used the SM needle as starting point and selected the RH needles 2. Checking AFRs during hard acceleration -> changed to ATF damper oil, now my AFR drops perfectly to around 12,5 3. Setting fuel bowl level with clear hose and banjo bolt: The only way to do it right. I tried it according to the FSM before, and the fuel levels were way off. I also noticed, that my rear carb (short ears) had a long needle valve installed. Therefore, I ran out of adjustment and couldn't raise the fuel level high enough. So far, both carbs are at the same level but 2mm too low. I'm not sure how this affects overall performance (much discussed topic). 4. To do: Install some sort of LVDT sensor / potentiometer in order to record the actual piston position. I want to know where the piston sits at cruise speeds as the needle seems to be too rich just in this area (AFR 13,5-14)
  5. I spent quite some time tuning my 3.1L stroker with SUs and found RH needles to work best (they are leaner than the SB ones). Still, cruise AFR is a little too rich. Ian Hamiltons needle tool is great for doing needle research! The tool can be found here: http://mk1-performance-conversions.co.uk/technical_carb.htm
  6. This is super cool. Can you still close the hood? I would like to drive it like this and mount a camera inside. Then I could see which needle stations are being used under certain load conditions!
  7. Hey guys, Is there any data out there (like dyno numbers) how well the stock SU air filter box is working compared to 2 round K&N filters? I installed a K&N filter mat (for the stock air box) and did not buy round filters so far. Top end engine performance is not great, it feels like from 5000 rpm on no further power is gained. A/F ratio is spot on, though (wideband installed). Of course this could also be due to the relatively small SUs on a 3.1L stroker.. I just love the simplicity of SUs. And much more budget friendly of course :) BR
  8. I'm running BP8ES spark plugs (3.1L stroker) with no issues. With stock plugs (BP5ES) I had issues with dieseling/run-on.
  9. I don't really know why, but the issue seems to be solved. Most likely the loose tension rod nut was the culprit! Thank you for all your help! 🙂
  10. I forgot to mention this: You are right, the right side bolt which bolts through the crossmember was pretty loose. After fastening it got better, but still not perfect.
  11. Calipers, hoses, brake MC, hard lines - all new, and they worked perfectly until last week. But will check it anyways 🙂
  12. Hey guys, my 240z pulls to the right if I brake really hard. The car is bolt and nut restored, means all brake system components (except brake booster) are brand new. I didn't notice this issue during the first 1000 miles, so I suspect something changed/failed recently. What I checked: Tire pressure, even wear Tension rod nuts (torqued them a little tighter) Rear left drum (no issue there) front left caliper and pads (even pad wear) The car drives straight as it should and the problem is really only noticeable with high brake pressures. Could it be an alignment issue? Or did I miss any other thing to check? Any help is highly appreciated 🙂
  13. 1200 miles later, 3 oil changes, full load up to 6000rpm, everything is fine. The engine pulls really hard! Only issue so far is that the right engine mount already disintegrates (new aftermarket). I found that SM needles were not sufficient, it leaned out at WOT from 4000rpm on. I switched to RH needles which are slightly richer but leaner during idle. The engine is super responsive and torque, so far I can't justify buying triples! Timing set to 16° BTDC initial, regular fuel (US: 90 octane). It's a blast to drive. Thank you guys for your support!
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.