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german240 last won the day on December 5 2017

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About german240

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  1. Absolutely. I got the MSA Type 1 Style air dam and even at high speeds (did 140mph / 240km/h GPS speed) I have a very stable feeling car. German autobahn 😍 Both my diff strap as well as the lower diff mount need to be replaced. So I don't think the car gets shaky due to worn diff mounts.
  2. @Captain Obvious Did you measure the belt lenght before install? I would like to prepare one, too (before I remove the old one). Great ideas!
  3. What kind of shifter boot is this? Mine is still missing and the original one didn't fit the 71C shifter. Awesome work!
  4. Regarding core plug removal: It is much easier to tap the plugs inwards. Just use a flat screwdriver and tap in one side (red line), the plug will tilt and can be pulled out easily afterwards!
  5. Where did you buy this awesome transmission crossmember? BTW I used a Series 1 driveshaft which is slightly shorter. It fit without shortening (tight fit, around 5mm travel left).
  6. @2377kNthis mount will not fit for a 240Z, right? I can't remember that there is the front part of the seat rail bent down like in your picture..?
  7. Hey guys, I tried three times to lock the side shaft bolts (wheel side) in place, using loctite and new spring washers. After a couple of hundred miles, they loosen up again. Did someone have the same issue in the past and how did you fix this? Is there a certain orientation of the side shaft flange neccessary? Space is tight, but I managed to fasten the nuts with a long extension ultimately. Maybe they hold better now. BR
  8. @240260280 I already did this in post #19 😉
  9. Oil viscosity doesn't affect wot performance at all as it only determines the mixture during the first 1-3s of acceleration. Thin oil =faster rising piston = less vacuum to draw fuel = leaner Thick oil = richer
  10. I think it is incredible easy to get the SUs "working". However, fine tuning is difficult! What I did so far: 1. Data logging with SM needles (AFR/Rpm with Zeitronix ZT2) -> too lean from 3000 rpm on, mixture nut had to be dropped by 4.5 turns as a base setting. I used the SM needle as starting point and selected the RH needles 2. Checking AFRs during hard acceleration -> changed to ATF damper oil, now my AFR drops perfectly to around 12,5 3. Setting fuel bowl level with clear hose and banjo bolt: The only way to do it right. I tried it according to the FSM before, and the fuel levels were way off. I also noticed, that my rear carb (short ears) had a long needle valve installed. Therefore, I ran out of adjustment and couldn't raise the fuel level high enough. So far, both carbs are at the same level but 2mm too low. I'm not sure how this affects overall performance (much discussed topic). 4. To do: Install some sort of LVDT sensor / potentiometer in order to record the actual piston position. I want to know where the piston sits at cruise speeds as the needle seems to be too rich just in this area (AFR 13,5-14)
  11. I spent quite some time tuning my 3.1L stroker with SUs and found RH needles to work best (they are leaner than the SB ones). Still, cruise AFR is a little too rich. Ian Hamiltons needle tool is great for doing needle research! The tool can be found here:
  12. This is super cool. Can you still close the hood? I would like to drive it like this and mount a camera inside. Then I could see which needle stations are being used under certain load conditions!
  13. Hey guys, Is there any data out there (like dyno numbers) how well the stock SU air filter box is working compared to 2 round K&N filters? I installed a K&N filter mat (for the stock air box) and did not buy round filters so far. Top end engine performance is not great, it feels like from 5000 rpm on no further power is gained. A/F ratio is spot on, though (wideband installed). Of course this could also be due to the relatively small SUs on a 3.1L stroker.. I just love the simplicity of SUs. And much more budget friendly of course :) BR