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german240 last won the day on December 5 2017

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About german240

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  1. german240

    L28 Stroker Build - I need your advice :-)

    Update! The engine is running 🙂 Got A/F ratio dialed in pretty well (using a wideband probe). Timing set to 16° BTDC initial, around 35° maximum mechanical advance. Only issues I'm still fighting with: When shutting down the engine, it rattles/shakes a little. Is this something unusual? I don't have another Datsun engine to compare, so I don't know if it is supposed to be like this. Besides that, the front nozzle of the SU carb sticks sometimes after the choke has been applied. Cables are greased, so are all pivot points. Should I try to bend something?
  2. german240

    Adjusting/recurving vacuum advance

    Thank you! I knew I've read it somewhere, but couldn't find it 🙂
  3. german240

    Adjusting/recurving vacuum advance

    Hey guys, is there a how-to recurve the Datsun vacuum advance mechanism? What are typical target values? I got a remanufactured Cardone ZX dizzy and would like to play with it a little bit. As far as I understood, there are two screws: - Inner screw for maximum advance (CCW for more maximum advance?) - outer screw for vacuum setpoint to start advance (CCW or CW for sooner start of vacuum advance?)
  4. german240

    Turn signal dash indicator reversed?!

    @Villeman All solved! 1. Rear lights not working: Ground points (behind licences plate light and above fuel tank) were missing 2. Turn signal indicator dash bulbs were reversed 😄 Took me a while, but it was an easy fix 🙂
  5. Hey guys, Finally, my late '71 Z is about to be finished. Only a few wiring issues are left - and I have no idea how to solve them. Current situation: I did the ZX alternator upgrade with harness plug instead of the old voltage regulator (seems to work fine). I did rebuild the combination switch (no issues during rebuild, I doubt I did something wrong). Issues: 1. Rear turn signals don't work 2. Front turn signals stay solid (Turn signal switch) 3. Dash turn signal indicators are reversed and solid (means left turn, right dash indicator turns on, left front turn light turns on) 4. Hazard switch turns on both front turn signals (flashing), no rears Fuses are fine, so are the bulbs. Could it all be low voltage related? Or is there a major issue? I remember when I first installed the charged (but weak) battery, the rear lights turned on barely visible. Thank you!
  6. german240

    WTB 280ZX distributor E12-80

    @EuroDat So I have to turn the inner adjustment pin clockwise in order to limit the vacuum advance travel, right?
  7. german240

    WTB 280ZX distributor E12-80

    @EuroDat: Did you ever try this? Does turning the screw clockwise increase or decrease the vacuum advance? I might have to do this as Cardone can't tell which advance they implemented. All years got the same parts number.
  8. german240

    L28 Stroker Build - I need your advice :-)

    So I decided to not tear the engine down again. NPR states in the piston ring manual:
  9. german240

    L28 Stroker Build - I need your advice :-)

    Piston and piston ring gap are totally independent. It all depends on ring material and block material as only the difference in thermal expansion is relevant. That's why I won't find a perfect answer, realised this today
  10. german240

    L28 Stroker Build - I need your advice :-)

    The question is: What are correct ring gap specs for this application? It is not a KA24E engine (where the pistons are from), nor a stock L28. NPR (Japan ring manufacturer) lists the following ring gaps: I'm still undecided @madkaw are you sure that the head bolts (got new OEM turbo bolts) are not a yield type?
  11. german240

    L28 Stroker Build - I need your advice :-)

    I wouldn't say it's cheap.. All new gaskets, new bolts and a lot of time. My friend had exactly the same ring gaps all around, no variance at all. But you still are right!
  12. german240

    L28 Stroker Build - I need your advice :-)

    A friend of mine just checked his piston ring gaps. He got exactly the same rings+pistons, same bore (same engine shop), all gaps were within spec (on the tight side, though). It is very unlikely that my gaps would be any different... However, I might still tear it all down again. Let's see.
  13. german240

    L28 Stroker Build - I need your advice :-)

    Bad news. I talked to an experienced engine builder. I told him that I only measured 1 piston ring gap (I seriously don't understand why I did this). He strongly recommended to start over, and that's what I am going to do ..first engine, lesson learnt! I just hope that I won't run into any issues with reusing the head and rod bolts.
  14. german240

    L28 Stroker Build - I need your advice :-)

    I left it like it is. Double checked valve-piston clearance (it is >2mm) and piston-head clearance (1.5mm) using a strip of solder. The engine is complete so far, I just have to fit the Zstory race manifold and the fully refurbished SUs. BTW: Some cam grinders like ISKY supply two completely different cam cards. One as reference (advertised), one for actual numbers that can be measured with a degree wheel. I found a similar (advertised) spec cam card, the "workshop specs" come out like my measurements did. @siteunseen I just realized that you uploaded those cam cards. Better pictures will be added next week Just some quick shots. DIstributor shaft alignment..shifted it around many times, hopefully it is right now Header Aaaaand.... Engine before I started working on it This was the Ebay ad..
  15. german240

    L28 Stroker Build - I need your advice :-)

    Not all events are advanced. And putting it in hole #3 would advance it even further..or are you kidding I left it like it is and finished the engine. I will upload some more pictures this week.

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