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german240 last won the day on December 5 2017

german240 had the most liked content!

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About german240

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  1. german240

    240Z pulling to the right when braking

    I don't really know why, but the issue seems to be solved. Most likely the loose tension rod nut was the culprit! Thank you for all your help! 🙂
  2. german240

    240Z pulling to the right when braking

    I forgot to mention this: You are right, the right side bolt which bolts through the crossmember was pretty loose. After fastening it got better, but still not perfect.
  3. german240

    240Z pulling to the right when braking

    Calipers, hoses, brake MC, hard lines - all new, and they worked perfectly until last week. But will check it anyways 🙂
  4. Hey guys, my 240z pulls to the right if I brake really hard. The car is bolt and nut restored, means all brake system components (except brake booster) are brand new. I didn't notice this issue during the first 1000 miles, so I suspect something changed/failed recently. What I checked: Tire pressure, even wear Tension rod nuts (torqued them a little tighter) Rear left drum (no issue there) front left caliper and pads (even pad wear) The car drives straight as it should and the problem is really only noticeable with high brake pressures. Could it be an alignment issue? Or did I miss any other thing to check? Any help is highly appreciated 🙂
  5. german240

    L28 Stroker Build - I need your advice :-)

    1200 miles later, 3 oil changes, full load up to 6000rpm, everything is fine. The engine pulls really hard! Only issue so far is that the right engine mount already disintegrates (new aftermarket). I found that SM needles were not sufficient, it leaned out at WOT from 4000rpm on. I switched to RH needles which are slightly richer but leaner during idle. The engine is super responsive and torque, so far I can't justify buying triples! Timing set to 16° BTDC initial, regular fuel (US: 90 octane). It's a blast to drive. Thank you guys for your support!
  6. german240

    240Z intake cooling delete

    A little follow-up: The more I digged into this topic, the more I think this line must not be capped off. I just bypassed the intake without thermostat and everything works perfectly. No issues at all, temperature always right in the middle. Additionally, it warms up very quickly.
  7. german240

    Ammeter X-file - after alternator upgrade

    I have the same issue with the needle moving while the turn signal is flashing. Since my voltage system is working perfectly fine I guess this is like it is and nothing to be worried about 🙂 Besides that, the needle is always close to middle or slightly right.
  8. german240

    Removing Clock Arms

    A good trick is to use a spoon or fork (whatever fits better) as a lever. Usually it pops right off (at least it was like this with my clock). 🙂
  9. german240

    Ammeter X-file - after alternator upgrade

    I did the same upgrade and my ammeter works fine ('72 240z).
  10. german240

    Need fan clutch

    Oh, I didn't know that there's a difference compared to the later fan clutches (as these are rebuildable).
  11. german240

    Need fan clutch

    Why don't you rebuild your fan clutch?
  12. german240

    240Z intake cooling delete

    @siteunseen Thank you, I've read some threads in the meantime. I think it could be deleted, however, during warm-up there would be no coolant flow through the head (thermostat closed). So the purpose of this line is, beside carb heating, to allow a little flow back to water pump. The only question is if the flow needs to be cut as soon as the engine is hot. I will keep it like this for a while and watch 🙂
  13. Hey guys, since I broke the intake manifold thermostat I bypassed the intake with a regular hose (red line). Would it be better to completely cap off the coolant flow by a plug at the thermostat housing and the 3-way connector at the engine passenger side? Thank you!
  14. german240

    L28 Stroker Build - I need your advice :-)

    I'm thinking more and more it is just a resonance during run down. I've heard that many BMW E30/E46 M3 owners experience a similar issue but there's no solution. I've switched to colder plugs, high octane gas, played around with ignition timing.. still rattling. My engine features completely different harmonics comparerd to stock (500g less weight per piston assembly!). Therefore, the engine mount stiffness might be not ideal now..
  15. german240

    L28 Stroker Build - I need your advice :-)

    So far I haven't found something loose. It's not only a noise but also a visible shaking - maybe a form of dieseling?

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