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Everything posted by grannyknot

  1. I'm game, just have to think of some way to pay for it. What do you think, somewhere between $30- 40K?
  2. That's the one, the FSM that are free to view on NICO doesn't show it but I found some that do, weird. Thanks. I think I know where the air is going during compression, the wobbly valves guides combined with these deep pits on one side of both exhaust valves on the #3, it's the only culprit I can point to. Since I have to get the valve seats done I might as well smooth out all this rough flashing first before taking it to get the machining done, then I can convince myself it's making more power
  3. Nissan doesn't even list it or show it on the exploded diagrams.
  4. The 510 I recently picked came with an SR20DET but after opening it up all I could see is money flying away, I let it go cheap and picked up a KA24DE, 5spd trans, ECU and wiring harness for a good price. Pretty grimey but I think it has had an easy life, regular oil changes for sure, the cams are very nice, all the valves, rings and bearings are within spec. Strange thing is 3 cylinders had 175 psi on a cold engine except #3 which was 139 psi, but the rings & piston on #3 were identical to the rest, all good. The exhaust valves guides are pretty sloppy on all cylinders but more so on #3, could worn guides really cause a loss in compression of 36 psi? I can't find anything else that might be the cause. The block is stripped down and ready to go out for cleaning and decking but I can't figure out how to get the chain oiler out, I can't figure out if it is pressed in or screwed in, it looks fairly delicate and I'm afraid it will get damaged if I leave it in, any ideas?
  5. I know I have more but can't find them right now.
  6. grannyknot


    "Not intended for electronics" that's kind of limiting isn't it?
  7. I've got to start cleaning up all the gauges I have accumulated over the years.
  8. dmuzial, actually the leak could come from the rear engine seal or the front trans seal or both🙁 but probably the rear engine seal. As S30Driver said, could be either, my first spindle pins came out with a few wacks of a rubber mallet. I was thinking " what are these guys all whining about, that wasn't difficult", my second, third and fourth set all had to be heated to glowing red and a 60 ton press to get them to let go.
  9. Main seal most likely, that is the reverse or back up light switch, it might just need tightening but sometimes old units weep where the wire exits the housing, otherwise they continue to work perfectly.
  10. The sending units are getting hard to find, if you still have the old one you can get it rebuild by these guys, Replace the M/C for brakes and for the clutch, they are quite inexpensive for what you get, you may be able to salvage your slave cylinder but you will have to take it apart to know, at any rate they aren't expensive either. Valve adjustment is always a good idea on an engine you don't know the history of.
  11. You could also try applying some heat with a Map gas torch and cooling it quickly with a penetrant like WD-40, then repeat before using the wrench.
  12. “I drive the car a lot on the street, and I even daily-drove the car while I was swapping the engine in my Subaru right before winter hit. I love to drive it on public roads, but I also use it for a few autocross and track days during the year.”
  13. The Invertig is suppose to be a great machine, I was on the verge of buying that same model when a deal came up on a Miller 280dx. Usaweld are great to deal with.
  14. The 510 I recently picked up came with an SR20DET but it was in poor shape and needed a lot of work so I sold it and grabbed a KA24DE and started tearing it down today. It's grimy and rusty on the outside but well looked after internally, I'll know more when I start measuring. The seller finally came across with the windshield, he bought it 6 yrs ago and was told it was the last one in Canada. At least it doesn't have a blue tint at the top.
  15. Personally, I wouldn't use quality oil to flush with unless I was feeling rich, I just use inexpensive ATF, it has lots of detergents in it.
  16. Those transmissions are pretty tough, just run good quality oil in it.
  17. Buy it! Even if it sits in the corner and does nothing you will double or triple your money if you sell it, but more importantly if you don't buy it, it may end up at the metal recyclers and we don't want that. There are pros and cons to both, wheel stands put no stress on the springs or rubber isolators at top the strut mounts but you can't work on the brakes because of the tires, Jack stands give you the most room to move a round and access to everything but sometimes old rubber isolators tear away with the constant weight pulling on them.
  18. I have counted 37 seconds after the I hit the starter before oil reached the cam, others have found similar times.
  19. I only had my fingers crushed once blowing the pistons out, now use a piece of wood between them and wrap the whole thing in an old T shirt before giving it air, it keeps flying pistons and brake fluid spray to a minimum.
  20. Beautiful, your plateter has a quick turn around. I have never split a stock caliper before, are the Orings a standard size?
  21. The piece you made looks very good, you're right to cut the other one off, it would started rusting again without a doubt.
  22. grannyknot


    I just picked up this one last week at a hock shop, very well built but Klein makes good stuff too.
  23. I had completely forgotten the car was yellow and green, it's been quite while hasn't it, two and half yrs. Some of you may recognizes the slapped together rotisserie, this is it's forth appearance in these build threads.