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About zeeboost

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  1. I know the market is hot for these right now, but I’d be pretty surprised if you would be able to get $100k even after a total restore. Heck, if you can get $50k for it as is then you should just jump on that in a heartbeat. This one is pretty close to what you have, though in better condition and still a reliable daily driver, and sold for low $40k https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1970-datsun-240z-51/ From the few pictures I’ve seen, your Z looks to be in mostly good condition for its age, and is a good candidate for light restoration / repair, but I think the visible rust and flaking paint will deter the higher bidders. But, that’s just my opinion... all you need are two people with deep pockets that really want it.
  2. Hah, you’re right. I just looked at the companion flange and guess for some reason my brain auto-filled a monkey motion shifter. Can’t say I’ve come across that style yet, but I’m sure someone else on here has.
  3. It looks like the FS5C71A transmission, which I think the euro market used those transmissions in the 240Z as well (possibly different gearing...? Don’t know a lot about them). It may have also come from a Datsun 2000 roadster...
  4. I honestly don’t know why anyone would want to restore this one. As people have already mentioned, it’s only original once. I would pdr what I can and rock it from there. It already has some flaws, so you don’t have to get anxiety over taking her out for a spin, but presents itself well enough that most people wouldn’t believe it hadn’t been restored yet. I think it looks amazing as a 50 year old driver. Sure you can find a few low mileage, near flawless all original examples from cars that lived most of their lives in the garage, but this z was actually driven (for the most part) and wears very few battle scars from it. If I was in a position to buy these cars that pop up on BAT, I would’ve gladly paid more for this one than the Orange 240z that sold just before it. How many 240Zs can say they’re still wearing their original Nissan skin and look that good?
  5. New timing chain kit too, don’t think I’ve seen a pullout that clean before...probably fresh from the machine shop. I would install the engine and run it as is in a heartbeat. Keep your other block as a backup / future n/a build.
  6. I’ve never installed an oil filter relocation kit on one of these, but you could probably use an oil cooler adapter from a 280zx turbo automatic, and then if you didn’t want to use the old cooler just cap the lines off. It would be a factory fit and it keeps the oil filter off the block. It doesn’t really make a mess any time I pulled an oil filter off one.
  7. Floors can get wet from several causes, but from my experience the t-top seals are most problematic. I don’t know how common the s130 cowls rust out but I have yet to come across one after messing with several. Should be relatively easy to remove the screws from the black plastic trim on the cowl, open it up and have a look inside if it’s a potential deal breaker for you.
  8. If it’s a t-top then those seals love to leak. Windshield I’ve also seen as a common spot, especially on top where you’ll notice some bubbling around tge windshield seal. If slick top then windshield or possibly where the door window seals at the top.
  9. I don’t have a solution for the crank nut, but I’ve managed to un-stick a couple of engines in the past by leveraging a pry bar on the flywheel. If it’s on an engine stand you can use one of the mounts to leverage against, but you may need a second hand to prevent unwanted rotation from the engine and / or stand. Otherwise a bolt through the block where the bellhousing would go has worked. I just work the flywheel both directions until it breaks free, but I’ve had to let the penetrating oil sit for a few days first. On one I also had to help motivate it with a brass punch and hammer. Just an idea, not sure what all you’ve tried yet.
  10. This was back in 2014 when they just hit the market, so not sure if quality is still the same, but I was pleased with the set of Ataras I bought
  11. This forum will mostly err towards the side of period-correct, so I’m willing to bet most will say to stick with the libres. If you post this in hybridz, you’ll probably get more recommendations of 17x9.5 rotas, or other modified larger wheel. What it boils down to is what you think looks best. And if you decide to get rid of those libres for other wheels then let me know, I don’t live too far from you.
  12. Again, really need to know your hp goals and future plans with the car. Turbo stroker is cool to say, but not necessary even for 600+ hp. It also adds quite a bit in machining and other rotating assembly parts to build. You'd be better off reallocating those funds to fuel management, more efficient turbo, intercooler, etc. Or if you're wanting a stock build, then that money would be better towards suspension, brakes, etc.
  13. Really need to lay out your hp goals or plans for the car. If stockish L28et hp is fine for you, then the factory computer system is stupid simple to install and maintain, and even though it's not optimum to today's standards, works pretty dang well for what it is. If you're wanting to push more boost, upgrade to larger turbo, run over 300hp, etc, then look at standalone options. Megasquirt is one of the cheaper ones and has been done so many times on these engines that there is more than enough documentation to help you out. But it still comes with a learning curve and a lot of other parts / modifications required to make it function properly. I also don't know if your engine is a factory L28et or if it's an n/a that you're looking to convert. Either way I would highly recommend installing an intercooler as these engines are already prone to detonation, and I've logged IATs over 200* after just one pull in 85* weather. I thoroughly enjoy this website but it's mostly for restoration back to stock. Go to www.hybridz.org, search search and search some more, and you'll find everything you ever wanted to know pertaining to the turbo swap.
  14. Just for reference, I know of an all original 3/71 with an E31. Also has the side drain oil pan, but on a p30 block.
  15. I haven't installed LEDs on Datsuns, but having done it for other modern vehicles, I just typically install resistors inline with the harness that mimic the return current of an incandescent bulb. Most newer vehicles use computers to monitor / measure return current, and it works fine with fooling them.
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