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About zeeboost

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    Austin, Tx

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  1. zeeboost

    LD28 Complete disassembled

    I wouldn’t mind a cylinder head and intake thrown in with it, but generally yes just the crankshaft is what everyone goes for. How much were you asking for it?
  2. zeeboost

    1jz swapped 280z

    Since you repaired a harness that was cut, you should probably start by unplugging every connector from the ecm and sensors, backprobing the pins and verify with schematics that every wire goes exactly where it’s supposed to and only there. May be a little overkill but with every wire you can also measure continuity to ground just to make sure there wasn’t anything shorted / pinched during installation. Or maybe some welding slag didn’t burn through the harness and bridge some wires that shouldn’t be touching. Cant tell you off the top of my head about older Toyota engine management, but with older nissans, rpm limiting was synonymous with maf faults (I also come from the land of z32tt so that’s just the first thing that pops up) you should wire in a bulb that the ecm can use as a temporary check engine light, put ecm in self test mode and see what codes you get. Or the tuning software you’re using...is it unable to retrieve trouble codes? That would be better than shooting in the dark.
  3. zeeboost

    1jz swapped 280z

    It was a car I built roughly 10 years ago and is one I should've never sold. Guess I've just kept that avatar there in remembrance. I started off doing engine swaps in these cars, as they were cheap enough to buy as a project shell and modify the blank canvas however I want. But as of recent the prices on some of these just make me feel too guilty modifying anything, and have somewhat caught the purist bug with it. Kind of interesting when I walk from one garage with an lq4 f1r pro charged widebody s30 to the garage on the other side of my backyard with all original '70 that I keep trying to source out as many OE parts as I can. ECUs actually read voltage, not resistance. Resistance of the sensor alters the return voltage to the computer. Sometimes amperage readings are also used as signals, but most of the time its voltage.
  4. zeeboost

    1jz swapped 280z

    Verify your timing marks with some pictures on google if you haven’t yet.
  5. zeeboost

    1jz swapped 280z

    Btw if you haven’t checked it out yet, go to www.hybridz.org That site is dedicated to z car engine swaps. There is a Toyota 6 cyl help section you could go digging through over there. You may find some help here but it’s more of a site for all original or lightly modified Zs. I like this site but I come here to get my purist fix on, see how inferior my Z is based on some letters and numbers stamped into the metal 50 years ago, how many speakers and modulations my radio caters to, along with all the other little hidden Easter eggs.
  6. zeeboost

    1jz swapped 280z

    Look at the pids on your tuning software and check for voltages out of range, go from there. Does it always run in the 10s? Or only during cruising, idle, part throttle, wot, etc. If it starts off in the 10s on a cold start then it’s probably not your o2 sensor unless it’s wired incorrectly and is backfeeding the wrong circuit into the computer. Your ecm starts off in open loop during warm up and doesn’t pay attention to the o2 sensor until it goes into closed loop once the coolant temp reaches whatever the calibrated temp is (typically around 160*). Other factors for rich condition off the top of my head that aren’t Ecm related: mechanical timing, ignition timing, fuel quality, restricted exhaust, restricted intake system, wrong injectors, too much fuel pressure (but that’d have to be way off to run as rich as you are).
  7. zeeboost

    Best place to find a Z?

    It wasn't a scam, friend of a friend was talking to the guy to go pick it up, but someone else beat him to it. Same way this one wasn't a scam as I spoke with the seller via phone, and he even offered facetime. (also in Washington area)
  8. zeeboost

    Best place to find a Z?

    No it was mislabeled as a 72. Vin was 17xxx if I remember correctly.
  9. zeeboost

    Best place to find a Z?

    Yep, this series 1 sold in less than an hour. Seattle and Oregon always seem to have killer deals going on
  10. zeeboost

    78 280z Severe Driving Problems

    I saw where he swapped the injector connectors and later talked about swapping the injectors as a test procedure, but didn't see where he actually went through with swapping them.
  11. zeeboost

    78 280z Severe Driving Problems

    You could just try swapping an injector around to see if your symptom follows it before building an elaborate test setup. If cylinder #3 has no change when you disconnect the injector for it, you could swap the injector to #1 to see if the problem follows. You already have the rail out.
  12. zeeboost

    78 280z Severe Driving Problems

    Fuel pressure is fine, pressure drops with higher vacuum and vice versa. Fuel pressures are more important with the engine loaded (close to 0" ). Did you run a fuel pressure test with the engine loaded or just at idle? Curious, have you replaced the little injector seals on the intake manifold? You could try getting a small bottle of propane, with the engine running open it and direct the gas around any vacuum lines, afm to tb boot, or where the manifold bolts up to the cylinder head to make sure you're completely sealed off. If the idle raises then you found a leak. And though a volume test would be better, the injectors look like they're spraying well enough to not cause a misfire under light loads. Careful when you're grounding out the injectors, the computer does it in milliseconds, not seconds, and you could fry one if you keep current flowing through it for too long. You can also get a cheap spark tester from harbor freight to put inline with the plug and wire to see if ignition cuts out on these cylinders when the engine starts to misfire.
  13. zeeboost

    Reproduction headlight covers

    Any chance on making these for g-nose buckets?
  14. zeeboost

    78 280z Severe Driving Problems

    Just read where you had the injectors rebuilt. Though I hate making any assumptions when diagnosing, probably a safe bet that they're fine. Though a little extra confirmation never hurt.
  15. zeeboost

    78 280z Severe Driving Problems

    I'm glad captain obvious picked up on vacuum signal to distributor. That should be ported vacuum, not manifold. If anything, disconnect the vacuum line from the distributor, plug it off and set base timing that way. Make sure your rpms are around 800 when setting it. I honestly don't see 34psi at idle causing your sputtering problem. 153624 counterclockwise is correct, the 1 should be towards the radiator. You can run a fuel pressure drop test on the injectors, it's a crude test that doesn't show you spray patterns but can show you if an injector isn't moving fuel. Have your pressure gauge connected and with key on engine off run the pump for a few seconds, either clamp off the return or deadhead (cap off) the return side of the rail. If your fuel pressure doesn't quickly bleed down after turning the key off, you can probably get away without capping the return. Record where the pressure is at, then using a 9 volt battery, very quickly jump an injector (literally just tap the wire to the terminal) and monitor pressure loss. Do this with all 6 injectors and compare their results. You'll have to prime the fuel pump after testing each injector, and make sure not to activate them too many times before starting the engine (keep from flooding it). I use 12v when doing this but 9v is safer, as you can easily fry the injector by leaving it engaged too long. Lots of other things can be done but these will help. If you have an infrared temp gun you can hit each exhaust runner with it, a "cold" cylinder may be your problem child. Definitely easier with headers than log manifold, (and a setup that doesn't have an intake directly above it) but doable. This is just a suggestion if you have one handy, don't run out to go buy one just for this.

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