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About zeeboost

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  1. I’ve gone through 3 datsun 5spd transmissions in my 240z l28et, but it’s modified. The next trans will be one from a z32, but I’m not sure if those adapter kits are still available. Pretty sure the thing now is to mate a 350z 6spd to it, but I havent done any research on that swap. Last I checked, parts are still readily available for the T5 trans, but im not sure if the 280zx T5 uses the same internals as say a foxbody mustang T5. A rebuild kit is more than likely just seals, synchros and bearings, but you may still be able to find replacement gears for yours. If you’re running a stock L28et then a stock T5 should be fine, as thats what they were rated for. But to answer your question, I’ve seen those 4speeds take quite a bit of abuse and keep ticking, so if you’re in a pinch and you can get one cheap, it should work fine.
  2. Curious, was this one Andy’s 240z from Maysel?
  3. Someone stole that one...
  4. A new hope https://portland.craigslist.org/clk/pts/d/battle-ground-complete-z-with-280z-fuel/6882738489.html (would’ve been more appropriate on Saturday)
  5. I wonder if Z enthusiasts had a similar opinion back in 1978. Maybe not since there were some differences from the early models, but it was all still the s30 chassis with the same body for the most part.
  6. If you’re unfamiliar with engines then you should probably just keep the l24 (or l28, whatever engine it comes with) to get your foot in the door with how they work and what it takes to keep them running well. The L engines aren’t boring, especially if you push the car the way it was designed.
  7. In the past I’ve been able to drill / tap a couple m8x1.25 holes 180* from each other, then use the bolts to push against the hub while forcing the drum back. Just alternate slowly between the two bolts, and some hammering in between to help break it free. It may not work in all cases but I would definitely try that before cutting.
  8. Yeah I'm not really understanding the hype. It's a decent foundation, but there are signs of rust all over the car, just not many closeups of it. Though some parts of the body have been buffed to be shiny, it will still need a repaint...especially once the trim moldings are removed and the body damage is sorted out. It will likely still need a minimum of floors, more than likely frame rails too. Not sure how bad the rust goes on the passenger inner fender. I have a hunch the passenger side has more rust damage that's hiding. It's been sitting for a long time, will need brakes gone through, clutch system, all rubbers and bushings. The carbs sound like they were cleaned enough to start, but will still need to be completely gone through to be a driver. Front valance looks damaged, turn signal busted, seats need to be completely rebuilt, dash has a few cracks, rear bumper tweaked, etc. I can go on and I know I'm sounding like I'm being really picky for a 50 year old Datsun, but for $10k I would want something that isn't going to require as much of a restoration as a "rust bucket" that still needs roughly the same amount of repair as the ones listed in these ads: I'm not criticizing his price, everyone is entitled to ask what they want for what they're selling. It's the responses that this should be a $20k+ car that have me confused. Maybe if he sells it internationally...? The car in this post has been for sale for at least a couple weeks now locally, if it was that good of a deal it would've been gone quickly. I don't see a lot of difference between the one being offered for sale on this thread and the ones posted above that just sold recently (green earlier this month, yellow one this morning).
  9. I wouldn’t mind a cylinder head and intake thrown in with it, but generally yes just the crankshaft is what everyone goes for. How much were you asking for it?
  10. Since you repaired a harness that was cut, you should probably start by unplugging every connector from the ecm and sensors, backprobing the pins and verify with schematics that every wire goes exactly where it’s supposed to and only there. May be a little overkill but with every wire you can also measure continuity to ground just to make sure there wasn’t anything shorted / pinched during installation. Or maybe some welding slag didn’t burn through the harness and bridge some wires that shouldn’t be touching. Cant tell you off the top of my head about older Toyota engine management, but with older nissans, rpm limiting was synonymous with maf faults (I also come from the land of z32tt so that’s just the first thing that pops up) you should wire in a bulb that the ecm can use as a temporary check engine light, put ecm in self test mode and see what codes you get. Or the tuning software you’re using...is it unable to retrieve trouble codes? That would be better than shooting in the dark.
  11. It was a car I built roughly 10 years ago and is one I should've never sold. Guess I've just kept that avatar there in remembrance. I started off doing engine swaps in these cars, as they were cheap enough to buy as a project shell and modify the blank canvas however I want. But as of recent the prices on some of these just make me feel too guilty modifying anything, and have somewhat caught the purist bug with it. Kind of interesting when I walk from one garage with an lq4 f1r pro charged widebody s30 to the garage on the other side of my backyard with all original '70 that I keep trying to source out as many OE parts as I can. ECUs actually read voltage, not resistance. Resistance of the sensor alters the return voltage to the computer. Sometimes amperage readings are also used as signals, but most of the time its voltage.
  12. Verify your timing marks with some pictures on google if you haven’t yet.
  13. Btw if you haven’t checked it out yet, go to www.hybridz.org That site is dedicated to z car engine swaps. There is a Toyota 6 cyl help section you could go digging through over there. You may find some help here but it’s more of a site for all original or lightly modified Zs. I like this site but I come here to get my purist fix on, see how inferior my Z is based on some letters and numbers stamped into the metal 50 years ago, how many speakers and modulations my radio caters to, along with all the other little hidden Easter eggs.
  14. Look at the pids on your tuning software and check for voltages out of range, go from there. Does it always run in the 10s? Or only during cruising, idle, part throttle, wot, etc. If it starts off in the 10s on a cold start then it’s probably not your o2 sensor unless it’s wired incorrectly and is backfeeding the wrong circuit into the computer. Your ecm starts off in open loop during warm up and doesn’t pay attention to the o2 sensor until it goes into closed loop once the coolant temp reaches whatever the calibrated temp is (typically around 160*). Other factors for rich condition off the top of my head that aren’t Ecm related: mechanical timing, ignition timing, fuel quality, restricted exhaust, restricted intake system, wrong injectors, too much fuel pressure (but that’d have to be way off to run as rich as you are).
  15. It wasn't a scam, friend of a friend was talking to the guy to go pick it up, but someone else beat him to it. Same way this one wasn't a scam as I spoke with the seller via phone, and he even offered facetime. (also in Washington area)
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