zeeboost

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  1. New timing chain kit too, don’t think I’ve seen a pullout that clean before...probably fresh from the machine shop. I would install the engine and run it as is in a heartbeat. Keep your other block as a backup / future n/a build.
  2. I’ve never installed an oil filter relocation kit on one of these, but you could probably use an oil cooler adapter from a 280zx turbo automatic, and then if you didn’t want to use the old cooler just cap the lines off. It would be a factory fit and it keeps the oil filter off the block. It doesn’t really make a mess any time I pulled an oil filter off one.
  3. Floors can get wet from several causes, but from my experience the t-top seals are most problematic. I don’t know how common the s130 cowls rust out but I have yet to come across one after messing with several. Should be relatively easy to remove the screws from the black plastic trim on the cowl, open it up and have a look inside if it’s a potential deal breaker for you.
  4. If it’s a t-top then those seals love to leak. Windshield I’ve also seen as a common spot, especially on top where you’ll notice some bubbling around tge windshield seal. If slick top then windshield or possibly where the door window seals at the top.
  5. I don’t have a solution for the crank nut, but I’ve managed to un-stick a couple of engines in the past by leveraging a pry bar on the flywheel. If it’s on an engine stand you can use one of the mounts to leverage against, but you may need a second hand to prevent unwanted rotation from the engine and / or stand. Otherwise a bolt through the block where the bellhousing would go has worked. I just work the flywheel both directions until it breaks free, but I’ve had to let the penetrating oil sit for a few days first. On one I also had to help motivate it with a brass punch and hammer. Just an idea, not sure what all you’ve tried yet.
  6. This was back in 2014 when they just hit the market, so not sure if quality is still the same, but I was pleased with the set of Ataras I bought
  7. This forum will mostly err towards the side of period-correct, so I’m willing to bet most will say to stick with the libres. If you post this in hybridz, you’ll probably get more recommendations of 17x9.5 rotas, or other modified larger wheel. What it boils down to is what you think looks best. And if you decide to get rid of those libres for other wheels then let me know, I don’t live too far from you.
  8. Again, really need to know your hp goals and future plans with the car. Turbo stroker is cool to say, but not necessary even for 600+ hp. It also adds quite a bit in machining and other rotating assembly parts to build. You'd be better off reallocating those funds to fuel management, more efficient turbo, intercooler, etc. Or if you're wanting a stock build, then that money would be better towards suspension, brakes, etc.
  9. Really need to lay out your hp goals or plans for the car. If stockish L28et hp is fine for you, then the factory computer system is stupid simple to install and maintain, and even though it's not optimum to today's standards, works pretty dang well for what it is. If you're wanting to push more boost, upgrade to larger turbo, run over 300hp, etc, then look at standalone options. Megasquirt is one of the cheaper ones and has been done so many times on these engines that there is more than enough documentation to help you out. But it still comes with a learning curve and a lot of other parts / modifications required to make it function properly. I also don't know if your engine is a factory L28et or if it's an n/a that you're looking to convert. Either way I would highly recommend installing an intercooler as these engines are already prone to detonation, and I've logged IATs over 200* after just one pull in 85* weather. I thoroughly enjoy this website but it's mostly for restoration back to stock. Go to www.hybridz.org, search search and search some more, and you'll find everything you ever wanted to know pertaining to the turbo swap.
  10. Just for reference, I know of an all original 3/71 with an E31. Also has the side drain oil pan, but on a p30 block.
  11. I haven't installed LEDs on Datsuns, but having done it for other modern vehicles, I just typically install resistors inline with the harness that mimic the return current of an incandescent bulb. Most newer vehicles use computers to monitor / measure return current, and it works fine with fooling them.
  12. I've never opened up one of the 240z autos to be able to chime in with anything useful, but I have a 3 speed auto transmission you can have if you need any other parts or for testing purposes. I live in central texas, not sure where you're at though.
  13. Did the warning system work properly before the dash was removed? Honestly I'm pretty sure the instrument cluster just houses a series of bulbs that light up when commanded by the control amplifier. So basically, unless there are broken solders or circuits on the circuit board of the instrument cluster (unlikely), I doubt it's the problem. I would double check all your connections, especially those running from the control amplifier (underneath the glove box) to the instrument cluster. If you want to start with the basics, make sure the control amplifier is being provided proper power and ground. 12v power is provided from the 2nd to the bottom fuse in the left column of the fuse box, through a green wire to the connector at your control amplifier. Ground is a black wire 2 cavities over from the green wire in the control amplifier connector, which goes through a junction connector and then to body ground. Since you pulled the dash, there's a chance you may have a loose ground or poor connection here. Page EL-83 in your FSM illustrates the wiring schematic you'll need to follow, but what I listed above will be the basics to get you started. If you suspect you have a faulty control amplifier, I have an '82 turbo parts car that I can send you a replacement for. I can't promise they're 100% compatible, but I doubt nissan would make changes to that particular system in 1 year. But I would first verify your harness integrity. And I can also assure you that mice, rats, squirrels etc. will absolutely chew up these harnesses, as I have seen first hand.
  14. Meanwhile a numbers matching 8/70 on bat a few months ago sold for $1k, and was less of a project than that. Pft, forget craigslist, I’m just going to sell my parts cars on copart. That’s crazy...it’s hard to believe those are real bids for that car.
  15. zeeboost

    Engine info

    I’m not sure where you’re located, but in the US they’re dime a dozen. Can’t speak for other countries.