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Yeah. How many Z car forum members DOES it take to remove a locking lugnut? At this point, I'm done dispensing advice and only here for this thread's entertainment value

If I was 24 again, I'd be standing in line, checkbook in hand. However, at my current age, I think it would be easier to get out of Afghanistan than it would be to get out of the driver's seat of the new Z. I'll stick with my '71. 😎

I'm the 55th poster on getting a keyed lug nut off. That has to be some kind of all-time record.

I paid over sticker price in 1971 when I bought my Z to avoid a several month waiting list. Seemed like a good idea at the time. The $4,200 I spent in 1971 is equal to $28,311, give or take, in 2021. I had been living out of the country for a year and a half, the $4.200 represented well over six months of my military pay, and I needed a car. I could not have guessed that I'd still be driving the car 50 years later. Not sure if the new Z will stir the soul like the original, but if I was 24 I'd give it a try. Life's an adventure, enjoy the ride!

Thanks Muzez, glad my clowning about had some value. I don’t think I will be doing the one from the outside anytime soon as I am using an iPhone and the thought of hanging £1000 of phone off the rear while tearing about doesn’t excite me :p But I will look into a second hand GoPro if I do something like this again. [emoji106]

Basically, at any point that the exhaust gasses encounter a change of diameter larger than where they came from, they expand (lose energy / velocity) and send a shock wave back up the exhaust tract. Now, in your situation you are not expanding but taking an existing travelling pressure wave and compressing it - in effect, this is creating a bottle neck / back pressure. For proper scavenging, you ideally want the pipework to be the same diameter from the collector point all the way back to a resonator / muffler to avoid suffocating (smaller pipe) or introducing new expansion harmonics (larger pipe). I had an MSA 6-3-2 header with 2.5” pipe all the way back to a turbo muffler with no resonator in between. The torque curve was utterly delicious.

What you say? a digital code of 1024 numbers? Oh it was something like: 101101100011110101011101101010011111010110110101010010101011000010111011010101011111100000 is that oké ? Yeah.. you say.. That lock is like a digital code. there are thausands of combinations for your lug! You got a gun? shoot it off!! 😉 You know what happens if there is changed only one "zero or one" in the program on your phones little computer? it will go wrong, if not instantly, some day later.. He's taking the micky out of you.. i believe is the term? (Bloody english hahaha) It's NOT gona fit unless it's the one of the previous owner of your car... Yeah. How many Z car forum members DOES it take to remove a locking lugnut? Hihi 60 ! and counting! How many members?? 5 !! 4 to turn the wheel and one WITH THE CORRECT LUGNUTKEY to hold it !

To duplicate a post I made earlier on the UK site, I’ve been having a bit of fun doing back to back tests and learning about making YouTube videos - my kids want their own Minecraft channels, so I’m trying to learn with my version, I call it Zcraft! 😄 Ever wondered what an exhaust system would sound like on your car with different mufflers? I personally found that the internet was full small clips but very little in the way of back to back comparisons on the same car. Well, purely for your benefit, I sacrificed myself!!!! I will splice parts of these together one day when I get more time, so that the same bit is played back to back on one video. 1. Thrush / Dynamax 17715 Turbo Muffler (I had some SERIOUS hay-fever that day so forgive my lifeless voice). 2. Zstory Classic Muffler (forgive the jibe at you left-hookers) [ 3. Zstory JDM Muffler (forgive my boyish squeaking) 4. Zstory Street Muffler (forgive the camera mount that broke halfway through the clip). Let me know what you think and I hope it's helpful / fun. (To be very clear, I have no affiliation with Zstory nor is this commercial in anyway - it's just me having a bit of fun and sharing it with fellow enthusiasts!)

Just noticed a Car & Driver article popped up today. https://www.caranddriver.com/news/a37304208/2023-nissan-z-revealed/ Nissan's new Z features an enticing combination of a twin-turbo V-6 engine, a six-speed manual, and a $40,000 base price. BY EZRA DYER AUG 18, 2021 JOHN ROECAR AND DRIVER The new Z—it has no numbers in its name this time—will cost about the same as the 2003 350Z (adjusted for inflation, of course) and rides on the same wheelbase as the 2020 370Z. But it's upped horsepower to 400 hp from a twin-turbo 3.0-liter V-6. Its main target is the Toyota Supra, and it goes on sale next spring. When we first tested the 2003 Nissan 350Z, we heralded its unrivaled combination of price and performance. Bringing 287 horsepower for less than $27,000, the reborn Z was an instant hit, re-establishing Nissan as a maker of serious sports cars. Now, almost 20 years later, we’re feeling that same excitement for the next Z car, the 2023 Z. Factoring for inflation, its base price—about $40,000—is that same as that of the 2003 350Z. So is the basic layout, with two seats, rear-wheel drive, and a six-speed manual transmission. But now you get 400 horsepower, from a twin-turbo 3.0-liter V-6. That’s the kind of inflation we can get behind. JOHN ROECAR AND DRIVER Built on a much-modified version of the current FM platform and riding on the same 100.4-inch wheelbase as the outgoing 370Z, the new Z—yeah, it’s just "Z" now—uses the VR30DDTT V-6 from the Infiniti Red Sport 400 models. Making 400 horsepower at 6400 rpm and 350 pound-feet of torque from 1600 to 5200 rpm, the sweet 3.0-liter features direct injection and variable valve timing, running up to 14.7 psi of boost. Manual models get a carbon-fiber driveshaft, an EXEDY performance clutch, and automated rev matching on downshifts, while Zs with the nine-speed automatic have aluminum paddle shifters and available launch control. When we tested the Z’s four-seat Infiniti cousin, the Q60 Red Sport 400, it ran from zero to 60 mph in 4.4 seconds, and that car had a seven-speed automatic and all-wheel drive. The Z, a full foot shorter than the Q60 and presumably hundreds of pounds lighter, should hound the Toyota Supra 3.0 (zero to 60 mph in 3.7 seconds) in even its base Sport trim. HERITAGE A Visual History of the Nissan Z Keeping the decisions simple, there are really no stand-alone options among the three trims. The Z Sport is your entry-level model, but it’s not a stripped-out husk built strictly to tout that $40,000 price point. The Z Sport gets the same powertrain as the other Zs, along with a customizable 12.3-inch TFT instrument display, cloth seats with synthetic suede inserts, and a full cadre of safety nannies and driver-assistance gear that any self-respecting Z driver won’t actually need. Z Performance models add some interior upgrades, like heated leather seats and an eight-speaker Bose stereo system, two more than the Sport’s audio setup, but most of the package contains actual performance gear: stiffer suspension, a limited-slip differential, and beefier brakes. Up front, four-piston calipers grip 14.0-inch rotors, while the 13.8-inch rear rotors are squeezed by two-piston sliding calipers. JOHN ROECAR AND DRIVER The Performance replaces the Sport’s 18-inch wheels with lightweight 19-inch forged Rays wheels wearing staggered Bridgestone Potenza S007 tires, 255s up front and 275s on the rear. Besides the unique wheels and red-painted brake calipers, the Performance trim is visually distinguished by front and rear spoilers and dual exhaust (and perhaps aurally distinguished by its more boisterous muffler, though we’ve yet to hear it). The automatic’s launch control function is also restricted to Performance models. Above Performance, and essentially serving as a launch edition, the Proto Spec is a Z Performance wearing the color scheme of the Z Proto concept car—yellow paint, black roof, bronze-colored wheels, and yellow brake calipers. The Wiz Khalifa–approved color scheme continues inside, with black seats and yellow stitching and accents. Manual cars also get a special shift knob. In a nod to the first Z car of them all, Nissan will only build 240 Proto Specs. JOHN ROECAR AND DRIVER In another reference to the 240Z, the interior’s center stack features three analog gauges set in a pod angled toward the driver. One is for boost, one is a voltmeter, and the third is a sort of tachometer for the turbochargers. Displaying measured turbine speed, the turbo tach will let the driver know whether the turbos are just loafing at a steady 220,000 rpm or approaching their 240,000-rpm maximum. Other callouts to Zs past include the taillights (shades of the 1990s Z32 300ZX) and the basic long-hood, short-deck proportions. Just as in the 1990s, the Supra will be the primary target when the Z goes on sale next spring. JOHN ROECAR AND DRIVER But this Z isn’t a shameless retro rehash or a refresh disguised as a new model. What it looks like is a deft melding of the contemporary 370Z's affordability with the GT-R's ferocious turbocharged performance. At this point, the only thing we’re not crazy about is the overly minimalist name. We know that Nissan is trying to look forward, not back, but "300ZX Turbo" has an awfully nice ring to it.

If it is a puzzle lock, the only way to get a replacement key is to have the code that came with the locks when new, then contact the manufacturer and request a replacement key. Otherwise a replacement will be impossible to get. The reason you can’t get a socket hammered on to work is because the nut is smooth, so there isn’t anything for the socket to bite into. You may find success using a dremel to cut some flats into the nut and then force a socket on to try and remove it. If you are going to keep trying to work on your car yourself, you need to invest in some good quality tools, and I’m not talking Harbor Freight. At this point you will be better off taking it to a shop where an experienced mechanic can get it done.

It's done by computer, and it's not a mold, it's a milling machine. What good is a lock if one key fits many of them? That would be insane.

Rewinds with Dunlop 205x60.

Finally got around to a few things this week. Changed the fuel filter before the pump… only about two hours of driving on it and it was filthy! New lines and a completely sanitized and coated tank meant I must have missed cleaning the inside of the rubber fuel filler neck. Only place for the crud to have come from. after that, I drove it around a bit tonight and 5th gear works perfect with new shifter and welded shaft! Yay!

I should get a look at it later this week at ZCON in Colorado Springs.

Based on a hint from Chris Karl, I figured it would be called Z. Am I the only one who felt they cut the reveal short? They could have shown us more details of the car.

Got the passenger seat buttoned up and ready for final install.

If you can't find the key, best just take it to a tire shop, sign their waiver and let them get medieval on it.

Hi Guys, Need a little help understanding scavenging and the impact of changing pipe size through an exhaust setup. Is there a negative or positive impact to reducing exhaust pipe diameter after a header collector? Context: I have a stock 1977 280z with L28 and no modifications. I will be installing a new exhaust later this year. I have an MSA 6-1 which features a 2.5" collector and am planning on buying a Zstory muffer which also features a 2.5" inlet. I read on the forums that for an unmodified setup, the 2" or 2.25" setup is ideal for torque due to scavenging/velocity and that 2.5" may have a positive impact on high RPM HP, but at the expense of my wonderful low end torque. If I dropped down to a 2" or 2.25" pipe immediately after the header collector and ran that back to the muffler, would that provide the scavenging required to maintain torque for an unmodified engine? Or would that negatively impact exhaust velocity and therefore is a bad idea?

Gallery showing more photos of the New Z and it also includes the engine! https://www.classiczcars.com/gallery/category/2271-the-new-z/

Keep your exhaust pipe the same dia. as the collector.

I'll share a story about my Dad, RIP. He never used a torque wrench or impact, just a 24" x 1/2" breaker bar and his brute gorilla arms. My younger sister and my step monster had flats over the years but could not break Pop's strength loose. Had to call roadside assistance everytime. He taught them how to put on the spare but couldn't make them as strong as he was. Me on the other hand was a touch smarter than those girls and used the scissor jack and the opposite weight of the car to break them loose. Needless to say I was his #1 son. To add context, my Dad worked for 40 years at the local Goodyear plant. He rotated all of our tires once a month just for the fun of it.

I believe RockAuto will ship to Mexico. In the US, they are usually cheaper than the parts stores. Anyway, if you are still using points, you need the ballast resistor, or you will burn up your points. Depending upon the voltage you need for the electronic ignition, you will probably bypass the ballast resistor later. Ballast Resistor: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1972,240z,2.4l+l6,1209169,ignition,ballast+resistor,7052 (Helpful hint, if it comes with a jumper wire like what is shown on the photos of the resistors, throw the wire away.) Ignition Coil: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1972,240z,2.4l+l6,1209169,ignition,ignition+coil,7060 This coil has the same specs as the one you saw on the Autozone site: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=931800&cc=1209169&pt=7060&jsn=1758

My 2nd set of vintage SK throttles are just about done. Only think left is to come up with a tps solution. They are a gift to my 3.1L engine builder Andrew.

Understood, I suppose my last question then is how important is it for the center line of the gears on the main shaft and countershaft to be perfectly aligned. I assume the thickness of #19 plays directly into this, and that you would want the mesh to be as aligned as possible. Here is a picture of my setup before disassembly, the center lines are a bit exaggerated but it illustrates the point, they did seem to be very slightly misaligned which could be due to the original shim being replaced by the thicker aluminum one. Which may also explain why there was no #18 in my transmission. I should be able to easily determine a thickness for #19 if I align the gear mesh. Wonder if misalignment has anything to do with my original issues.

@AK260 Amazing work! Solved a problem I have been facing for a while with understanding Sean's offering and the different options. Thanks much! If you still have the mufflers and can get an exterior mount, it would be cool to hear what all three of these sound like from outside of the car too while driving.

I never use power tools on lug nuts. The risk of galling the threads and the seats on the wheels is too great. I have a long handle 1/2” drive ratchet to break them loose, a 1/2” drive T handle to remove and reinstall them, and a 1/2” drive torque wrench to do the final tightening. It ain’t a NASCAR pit stop, right? And I’m not trying to beat the flat rate book time either.

You guys tell us about your adventures this time around. Unfortunately after 3 ZCONs in a row, I need a break for other things this year. Would have been cool to see the actual Z after last years "cardboard" reveal.

I've moved on to the rear suspension at this point. A couple of weekends ago I pulled both sides out and I'm now dismantling and starting the cleanup/refresh process. Thought I'd post a couple of pictures of the rear stabilizer bar setup on the car. Is this an aftermarket installation, do you think? All the pictures I've seen of these cars with stabilizer bars seem to have the clamps and bushings on the outer ends of the crossmember that supports the rear transverse link mounting brackets, rather than in the middle like mine. Did all 240Z's come with rear stabilizer bars? The Safari Gold '71 for sale on BAT at the moment, for instance, has no sign of one. Looks like it has the same "Series 1.5" parts collection as mine. I was a little surprised by the fact that the driver/passenger transverse links are the same part with one flipped over. I'm not sure whether this is genius or extreme cost-cutting. Seems like water would collect in the driver's side.

In the presentation, Mr Ashwani Gupta (Nissan's 'Chief Operating Officer', no less) repeats the lie that the Z's debut was on 22nd October 1969 at the Pierre Hotel in New York, with the 'Datsun 240Z'. The people writing the scripts for these sock puppets appear to have Googled Zhome.com...

Wow, that looks great! Love the side by side shot. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I read somewhere (before the reveal), that down the line there ought to be both a Nismo 'Z', and a 'Z' that comes in "heritage" colours, which I imagine will harken back to the 240. The colour options the article says the 'Z' will come in are, in my opinion, a strange choice by Nissan. They just seem too restrictive. Want a red or blue car? Hope you like a black roof. Otherwise, take this deep, muted red colour. P.S. It'll be hard for me to call this z the 'Z'. Maybe 'the new Z', but not just z.

I think this is it!!!

looks like spring 2022, missed the screenshot but it will have a 400HP engine

I picked up a set of Konig Rewind 15 x 7, and BF Goodrich 225-45 ZR 15 summer only tires for my 72. Haven’t mounted them yet, but when I do I’ll post here how they fit.

They're cheap now that they bluetooth to a smartphone. I still say lack of spark to #4. Don't you have some kind of aftermarket ignition?

I hope this clears up some confusion about which wire goes where.

Official release tonight at ZCON. 8 Eastern

AND remember everybody.... A GOOD set of tools is half the job !!

I bought both sets of seat foam from Banzai Motorworks and both sets of seat covers from Black Dragon. I don't know if the covers and foam came from different manufacturers, but I didn't have any real problems.

I bought a whole set of of wheel lock removers. One of the big box stores might have a set

just for reference - I won an auction on this >> Sunex wheel lock remover. (Not at home right now so I can't snap a photo) Maybe google has some better photos - at least it gives a starting point. It was used, and some of the 'teeth' had snapped off some of the sockets. I don't recall if any of the sockets had that many teeth to fit over your application The auction photo (credit to People's Auction Company, Inc. Chesapeake VA)

Bolt extractor. I usually use them with a breaker bar and tap on the back with a hammer as I try to rotate it to help it dig in. I have also beat them off with a chisel, but that is much less fun Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

got a welder? Weld a nut on the end of it, then use a regular breaker bar.

I have clear memories of a '66 LeMans with a 389 and a fried clutch. When I started it in gear, the clutch held and it would go, and I could shift without using the clutch. Had to be crafty at stoplights, though.

This is what is available to us in the UK - not sure if you are able to get the same tyres where you are: https://www.blackcircles.com/order/tyres/search?width=205&profile=60&rim=15 Avoid the Michelin energy savers like the plaque (as me how I know) I throughly recommend the Goodyear’s as I run them on my Z with over 200lbft hitting the tyres. The continental contact 6 I run on both my Audis and they are a superb all rounder. The grip in the wet and slippy UK roads is very well matched to their performance in dry conditions. Then there is the Falkens, the Uniroyals, michelin efficient grip. Avoid anything with a B or less rain rating as they just won’t be sticky enough in the dry for spirited driving and are generally more focused on fuel economy and are, in reality, van tyres! Good luck!

Ps. Just uploaded the Street Muffler - the last one of the series. Please forgive the shaky video halfway through. The camera mount broke off, but at least the sound is all there! [emoji20]

if only