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About mailnome

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    Boonsboro, Md 21713

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  1. I’d try some Meguiar’s #7 Show Car Glaze. Really good with old single stage paint, but it can be a work out. https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-to-articles-by-mike-phillips/100613-7-rub-down-technique-mike-phillips.html If you don’t know Autogeek, it’s a great site with tons of good information on detailing and well moderated with friendly people and very little childish BS. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. I have used the seal tool and the screw method. I think I prefer the screw method more. I always feel like I’m going to mar something up with the seal tool, although I don’t think I have really yet. Not so much with the front edge, but the back that is being forced in and possibly the sides against whatever shaft. With a screw, I typically use a hammer with a block of wood in between and pull on the screw like removing a nail. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. I thought they were black but I could be wrong. I have not tried it yet, but I am getting close to to painting a few engine colored parts on my ZX. After reading I believe that Chrysler Corp Blue Engine enamel is a good match for the block without getting a specific can made or ordered. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Brought to you by the proud makers of ShopRelief https://www.technoversions.com/ShopRelief.html Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. I just checked the link that Steve J posted in your other thread. I think a 90 degree elbow of the right size should work. https://www.fillernecksupply.com/fuel-hose-elbows/ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Sorry, double post. I want one now Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. OMG, sweet!!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. I might have seen one here. I know nothing about the seller. https://maseraticompound.com/collections/datsun-280zx?page=1 I don’t think I’ve seen any new or reproduced ones. Also, sorry it’s a lot of unorganized parts Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Thanks guys. Yeah, I think my statement of “kind of pain” is an understatement. Will have to grab one or two. I end up doing brake lines more often than I like and am always reluctant because of that tool. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. How about something like this https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-35-Piece-Standard-SAE-and-Metric-Polished-Chrome-Mechanics-Tool-Set/3387640?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-tol-_-google-_-lia-_-218-_-mechanicstools-_-3387640-_-0&placeholder=null&ds_rl=1286981&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI96iR68bC8AIV0AeICR0FtQgpEAQYCSABEgLbEPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds With a nut driver bit like this in it, possibly modified/shortened https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-IMPACT-RATED-3-Piece-1-4-in-Nutsetter-Impact-Driver-Bit-Set/1000600279?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-tol-_-google-_-lia-_-215-_-pta-drillinganddriving-_-1000600279
  11. I might have to check that style out Tweeds. I have been using the other kind but it’s sort of a pain in the but and I don’t always get consistent results. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Not sure where your leak is but you can replace only a portion of the line if the rest of it is still ok. You need access to a double flare tool though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Yeah, I would siphon it out. If you have an air supply, blowout nozzle, and a length of hose, you have a simple vacuum/siphon setup. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. I think mine used to do that. I want to say that you can pull up on one side of it while twisting. I ended up swapping my lock over to another cap. That was fairly simple. That was because I ran it over though, ha. Now I’m cautious not to over tighten it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. I’ve got two that are not quite as separated and I’ve thought about getting/using some liquid electrical tape Edit: I can’t remember the brand I used before for something different, but it was thick and dried to a soft rubber consistently kinda like RTV/silicone. I thought about using Plasti Dip and just noticed they make a electric tape version. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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