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About Muzez

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My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
  • About my Cars
    1977 280z
    1991 300zx 2+2 (Sold)

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  1. @AK260 Checked the front diff mount, but it was basically new (at least in appearance) so I kept looking. Traced back the issue and have found the source of my noise. I installed new poly bushings and had tightened my control arm bushing retainer bolts, but had not torqued them because the service manual recommends doing it on the ground. Long story short, forgot to torque the inside ones before my test drive so there was a little play. Torqued them to 105 ft/lbs and its cut down the nose significantly.
  2. QQ: For the Differential Skid Plate / Weight that attaches to the Front Differential mount, does the thicker end on the left hand side of the photo face rear-ward or forward. I have it oriented with the left hand side facing rear-ward, but I am getting a little clunking when shifting.
  3. Issue resolved. Ended up having to retap it. But I now have working brakes. Thank you everyone for your help!!!!
  4. More bulge than this right? Or just past the washer is enough.
  5. @iscnetwork Planning to give her a bath tonight since she is covered in dust from sitting all year, so more photos to come tonight. In the meantime, something to get your started.
  6. @Zed Head, @Patcon, @iscnetwork IT LIVESSSSSSS!!!!!! Put the starter it back on the car and jumped the car from the starter and that got it to turn over. Not sure why that did it. I can now start it using the key and battery. Maybe it just needed a little extra juice to break it loose the first time? Or the process worked loose some corrosion that I wasn't able to see. Either way, its running!
  7. Replaced the terminals last night since the terminals were pretty scuzzy and @wheee! tempted me with some attractive clear terminals. Was not an issue. Good advice, will check tonight. Out of curiosity, in 5th gear because it has lower torque? Will try this tonight. The transmission is definitely in neutral, I am able to spin the rear wheels freely. Maybe I can try jumping the starter directly and take the battery & battery wires out of the equation? Looping back to the fuel system; I am assuming that with this old of a car, it is not smart enough to detect low fuel pressure and deactivate the starter correct? That's the only other major thing I changed in this system.
  8. Love the paint color you went with. Can you share what you used? Looks so much cleaner than mine!
  9. @Zed Head Solenoid clicks when I bride the terminals. It also clicks when I move the key to the start position (when the starter was installed). I heard the click and didn't know what it was until I brided it last night. Also, QQ. Since this car has only been sitting for a few months, my hope is that if this is a corrosion issue, it is not bad a bad one. Is there a risk to just putting the car in gear and lightly pushing without having added the penetrating oil to see if its just lightly stuck? Just changed the oil and filter 3 days ago, so would love to not dump all of that good oil. But completely understand adding the penetrating oil if there is any risk to the engine whatsoever. .
  10. Quick Update. No damaged wires under the dash. Tested the starter on and off the car. Starter works fine on the bench, but doesn’t turn the car over when I bridge with a screw driver. Tested the battery to starter connection and it is fine, as is the battery charge. This makes me think the issue is the engine is siezed.
  11. Haven't gotten past page 3 on your post. Did you get yours running? Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk
  12. Thanks for the link @Zed Head. Will test through these steps tomorrow. With regards to the videos, apologies. You guys always pick up on crazy things I don’t hear, so I figured I would share in case there was extra data you could gleam from it. Any photos That are helpful? With regards to “turn over”, the system doesn’t crank. When I turn the key to start, I can hear the pump running in the back and I can hear a hissing noise in the front near the injectors, but the engine doesn’t crank. I have power in the cabin (door ajar alarm, brake light, buckle seat belts, full dash. I get a little fluttering in the fuel gauge, which bounces between 3/4 and full (tank is full to the neck). I did have the dash apart earlier to replace the shifter boot, will check the wiring around the dash as well. Battery has been on a trickle charger for 2 months and is brand new. Testing steps for tomorrow: - Starter Solinoid testing - Check wiring around distributor and fuseable links - Check Neutral/Park switch - Check dash wiring for breaks / damage @iscnetwork how did you start the car with a screw driver? Also, general question: On the stock 280z from 1977, is the fuel pump self priming? Or does it need to be primed?
  13. Hi Guys, 1977 280z. Been sitting since last year. Tried to start it this week, but I can’t get it to turn over. While I was making changes over this summer, I knocked off the fuel line to the fuel pump and it drained dry. I think the issue is air in the fuel lines. I am getting a louder than normal fuel pump noise and the fuel damper is empty, but I tried to loosen the fuel hose after fuel filter, there is pressurized fuel. Any ideas for what to test? If it is air in the fuel lines, what’s the best way to to purge? Changed Since Last Start: - New Group 24 Battery, fully charged - Changed engine oil and filters - 10 new gallons of premium gasoline IMG_3897.MOV IMG_3898.MOV IMG_3896.MOV
  14. Makes perfect sense. Will give this a try with the jack tonight and will update you on the progress!
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