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Everything posted by AK260

  1. It sure about a 3.2 but this is something I compared on my modified 2.8 …. The key thing with exhausts is that bigger isn’t better and you will lose power if you go too big. Have a look at what the 3.0+ litre engine builders use, that should start to give you some ideas. The other thing I noted was that as you increase the displacement, you go from raspiness to boominess and have to seriously consider the centre resonator of you value your ears! Those low end frequencies can’t be dialled out with sound deadening and can take the fin out of driving the car. Good luck and I’ll be sure to take the red pill and “follow the white rabbit”! :)
  2. AFAIK, this is the only new option available and will kill your motorway peace and traffic light racing but a total hoot any other time. Oh and mega expensive!! https://www.rhdjapan.com/kameari-r200-final-gear-set-type-2-4-875.html +1 on buying a 3.9 R200. Mine came from Arizona to the UK and before shipping it was on eBay for $200! I admit, that was 4 or 5 years ago.
  3. Ps. They just popped up in my AliExpress notifications - looks like 13th gen is now available again. I bought the Vanssi brand on the recommendations of another UK Zclub member and I have to say, they have far exceeded my expectations and lasted well. I do a lot of night time Z driving in the summer after I get home from work, so they’ve had a decent workout. £23.34 34% Off | VANSSI 13G 130W 40000LM H4 H7 H11 LED Car Headlight Bulbs High Power Style HB4 9006 9005 HB3 H1 H15 H16 H10 Fog Lamp 6k White https://a.aliexpress.com/_vDvX3P 40k lumens does seem excessive though, but take it with a pinch of salt - it depends on how they calculate it - it’s much like PMPO v RMS in the hifi world. It’s a case of divide by 4 to get each “beam’s” lumens and even then they probably measured brightness at 18v (or more) with some caveats to win the marketing arms race. The real output is around 3500-4000lm which is about the same as modern car HID (AKA Xenon) bulbs and what I experience on the road on my Z. But at that price it’s worth a punt, no?
  4. FWIW, I had some cheapo (£38gbp) Vanssi branded LED H4 bulbs off AliExpress about 5-6 years ago. Never had to modify any wiring, they just plugged in and worked! Transformed my nighttime driving without causing undue dazzle to anyone. They will still take 1/3 of the juice required by halogens. You wouldn’t imagine it matters with LEDs but fresh wiring would make them even brighter - even though I’m still using 40+ year old wiring. I know this because my alternator gives 12.9 v at idle (Ati racing damper with half sized pulley) and at 1.1k rpm I get the full 14.x volts and the bulbs do get slightly brighter! I can’t find them on AliExpress anymore though so I can’t send you a link. The key thing to consider with those bulbs is that for a decent beam pattern, the orientation (you can spin the bit that houses the LEDs) is different to halogens. Low beam High beam Comparison to halogens Correct orientation
  5. Thanks for the tag! Hey Dave - very lovely looking car and I suspect you are right about it being the youngest in the UK. Unless you’ve already done so and I missed it, pop over to the UK site too www.Zclub.net and let’s see if we can get you along to an event next year. Where in the country are you? I’m down in Surrey at Ict6 of the M25. Hope to meet you in person and see this beauty up close. Ps. Your side indicators are indeed on backwards as mentioned already :p
  6. I got mine from MSA about 4 years ago
  7. I cut the holes open into a V shape. the webbers are 65mm centres and the SUs are 72mm centres. For the post above I used tapatalk and uploaded on my phone - looking at it on the PC now, I had no idea the photos are that HUGE! Apologies guys.
  8. Modified fully radiused Webber velocity stacks to fit my SUs. On the test drive the car sprinted into the rev limiter in first and second without me intending to! So they are adding value. The quality is 500% better than the MSA horns and they cost 1/3 in England. Can’t recommend these highly enough for an aftermarket air box.
  9. To echo Steve, great post! [emoji106] What motor did you go for? (Year / model number)
  10. I’ve been on the back of a GSX-R600 and MY GOD that thing could accelerate. Cant imagine what it must have felt like in yours full throttle aiming for the horizon!
  11. Agreed chap! My buddy did go with his SUs and we got them tuned right pretty quickly. It produced excellent power below the 4k rev limiter ceiling on the first drive, so he's going to use them for the first 1000 miles and send the car with the triples to the RR once the run-in period is completed. With the AFR sensor / gauge installed, we should be able to find a needle in my collection that is rich enough to fuel it sufficiently further up the rev range. On that note, to prove that the SUs can deliver enough fuel for over 230bhp to 6.6Krpm, I dropped in super rich KV needles into mine and the carbs can hit high 10s on the AFR at 6K rpm on a third gear pull - clearly over-rich, but point made! With that argument out of the way, there is only the question of flow, which his OERs will clearly address in good time. The beauty of going this way is that he will now have a direct comparison for SUs v DCOE (for the sake of scientific research 😛 and my personal curiosity). This way he will not wonder if he should have just kept the SUs, he will know through real-world driving experiences, where the SUs work best and where the DCOEs bring the engine to life even more. I'm personally a die-hard SU man for a road car, but with this nearly 3.0 engine being something quite special, even I have to concede that it needs the extra flow and sound track of the triples. But equally, I want to see what they do to the engine's current scintillating pull between 2-4Krpm - where we spend a lot of time in 2nd /3rd around the UK's fun twisty country roads - and it's still not "on cam" at that point!!! Can't wait to see what it will do between 4-7K. I've seen too many dyno charts of triples showing a rise in torque at 2/2.5k only to drop off quite noticeably until 4K where they come to life and produce great power / fuel atomisation. I'm hoping with some proper tuning and choke sizing, he can have the best of all worlds. Either way, that engine needs triples or Efi to give its full potential.
  12. Yeah, I was wondering about that too!
  13. You know, I have a dropbox folder full of little gems I discover over time on the net - this was in that folder and I have to agree with you. I was looking at it on my phone screen so didn't spot it. I also have no idea what it's supposed to be or where it came from 😉 Sorry for causing confusion / mis-info.
  14. The first one is looking from the top down, the third one is looking from the underside up. I think ;)
  15. I did mine as per the diagram on the right for exactly the reasons you mentioned - namely to provide more surface area at the top against the insulator.
  16. Ps. Mine arrived just now and it is indeed glass! This came in too! When the wife asks, I’m blaming Cliff!!
  17. Yep! That’s exactly it. Been thinking about It for 3 years and finally ordered it. I saw installed it in a friend’s car at the weekend and it looks period correct in any classic car. The “glass” though is plastic - which is a good thing if you think about it. Hope the Site-mister gets his pump sorted out! Oh and his fuelling too.
  18. I’m about to do the same set up with a big filter / regulator and a facet silver top in tandem with my mechanical pump. My internet research has found that most aftermarket inertia switches can trip too easily, especially on track days. But the modern Mini’s switch is very reliable and doesn’t trip with pot holes etc. Also placement is important. Vertically inside the car on the firewall appears to be ideal. https://www.hubauer-shop.de/en/fuel-pump-emergency-off-switch-07131068856.html Part no. 07131068856
  19. Also LHD v RHD makes a big difference on brake lines routing. Tell us more about the car.
  20. Fair point, I guess I was looking for max flow at 6K RPM where the engine "should" be thirstiest.
  21. I have to agree with you there! [emoji106] I like keeping the mech pump - i may also look into a bypass set up on the elec pump in case it ever fails. The problem is never fitting these things, it’s the stuff we put around them like not using the wiring loom supply and adding inertia cut off relays etc ;)
  22. Thanks sir, I will look into it! [emoji106] Interestingly, the online fuel flow calculators all converge on around 18-20 gph (imperial) for 240bhp, so the silver top at 30 should be OK I think. [emoji848]
  23. Does anyone know the actual flow rate of the mechanical pump? I am tempted to support mine with an electric pump. - a facet silver top as it’s not too juicy on pressure for my SUs (with a regulator of course) but their literature says it’s good for up to 200bhp - mine makes anywhere from 230-245 depending on whose dyno it’s on! ;) But the difference between a silver top and a red top is only 10% more flow for the red top. Yet the red top is quoted as 200+ applications. But what does the “+” mean if it’s only 10% more flow? 10% more power or infinity!? ;) But foremost I’m interested to know the flow of the mech pump - can’t seem to find it in the FSM I have.
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