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About Tweeds

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  • Member ID: 34874

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  • Joined: 10/12/2020

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  1. Time Left: 29 days and 1 hour

    • WANTED
    • USED

    Looking for a good, useable oil spray bar for a '71 with an E88 head


  2. View Advert ISO Oil Spray Bar (E88 Head) Looking for a good, useable oil spray bar for a '71 with an E88 head Advertiser Tweeds Date 05/22/2022 Price $50 Category Parts Wanted Year 1971 Model 240z  
  3. Time Left: 29 days and 1 hour

    • WANTED
    • USED

    Looking for a good, useable oil spray bar for a '71 with an E88 head


  4. So there's the idle screws on each carb, and also a fast idle screw somewhere between them on the throttle linkage. The fast idle screw isn't screwed down is it?
  5. I shipped my z from Illinois to Florida with this company, and they did well: https://eshiptransport.com/ To be clear, that linked company basically contracted my shipment to a shipping company. The company that actually shipped my z was Safeport and theeir number is (847) 371-1891. They were a little late, but oh well, they delivered the car safely. I had it shipped in a closed container, which is more expensive but protects your car from the elements and any debris that my be flying around (like dirt from a truck, or something). Safeport had a really nice setup, and my z got loaded with a Ferrari and some other nice cars. Here are some pictures:
  6. Here's an idea - being able to block profiles. See someone who's obviously one of these spamming cats? Block 'em. That way they're out of your feed, and we don't have to wait for @Mike to clear 'em out. Not that Mike isn't doing what he can, but I don't expect him to be a 24/7 watchdog for spammers. Right now, the front page is 100% scam bull%^*%, and most posts were made in the last 20 minutes. Again, dunno how hard this 'blocking' thing would be in the back end - just thinking out loud!
  7. Ha! They must be really desperate coming to car people - I already spent all my money on my car!
  8. Over the past few weeks there's been an influx of new accounts that post a bunch of spam or scams. You know the ones... What gives? Is this happening in other forums, has this happened before, or are we just unlucky? Anybody know how to stop this nonsense? Seems like the only way would be to screen new accounts or posts somehow, or maybe put a cap on how many new threads one can open in x amount of time, but all that would be sorta authoritarian. I dunno much about these sort of things, and I dunno how to deal with it in the back end, but maybe somebody here does! Luckily, at least, this wave of spammers and scammers have been obviously bogus - better than something more lucrative.
  9. Ha! Great pragmatic, backyard ingenuity! Personally, part of the fun in changing oil for me is the sketchy balancing act of trying to both keep a funnel steady while simultaneously dumping in a bunch of oil down said funnel. Funnel starts to fall, gotta reposition it with one hand while still pouring the heavy oil the other without letting it spill all over my pretty engine bay and wasting a couple bucks. It's the threat of catastrophe that makes it fun! Throw in a too long, too narrow funnel...
  10. Guys, guys... I think we all are sorta in agreement here. Any racing league has restrictions on what you can and cannot do. At the end of the day, the cars you see racing are removed from the car you'd buy at a dealership. Sure, some things are more far removed from reality than others - slapping the body of a car on a tube frame with an absolutely built engine, ridiculous suspension, no interior, and a sequential transmission is way different than a stock car. Everything that makes that racecar go is different, for sure, but the point is, they're trying to sell the car. I'm not gonna lie, I like a Ford Fiesta - not because it's fuel economy or something like that, but because they've made a long line of good rally cars. Doesn't mean I've bought a Fiesta, but, hey, if it came down to it, I'd buy a Fiesta over some other manufacturer's car because of Ford's legacy in rally. Same could be said of the GT500. Ya know what I mean?
  11. Just here to agree that it's probably the brake booster. HappyZ makes a good point - isolate the brake booster to see if it's the problem. I had a similar issue, except the car would often flat out stall when braking. Vice gripped the brake vacuum hose and no more stalling or bogging down, but those brakes more stiffer than all Hell!
  12. Ha! Ya know, I've been having this issue for a while. I figure it might be some sort of server error or something because any other website would load well, yet stuff on here would take forever (sometimes it would time out, like you said). Funny thing is, there'd be times where the home page would load fast, but then it would take a good long while to load up a thread. Meanwhile, I'd check to see if it was my internet that was slow by opening another tab and, would you know it, I can watch a video on YouTube at 1080p no problem. I'm glad you brought this up because I've been thinking it was just me for a while. I've been paying close attention to the website's behavior trying to figure out the problem. That being said, I have found no pattern. There doesn't seem to be a specific time or circumstance that causes the site to slow down - sometimes it'll load like anything else, sometimes it'll take far longer than anything else, and sometimes it won't load at all. All I can say is that the website will sometimes slog, and it is seemingly a server problem rather than client. I'm interested to see how many other people share in our plight.
  13. Feature's been around for a couple years now at the very least - my first discount offer was in August of 2019. Privy tactic of seasoned eBayers throwing things in your watchlist to see if the seller offers a good discount, as you said. From my experience, if a seller is offering a discount, you can often make a counteroffer for even less. They've probably had it listed for a while and want it gone.
  14. Turn signals not working... classic. A widely discussed topic - a whole lot of great information out there surrounding it. All the solutions I've seen require taking apart the Turn Signal Switch. While this is a very professional and thorough way to go about things, it leaves room for breaking stuff, losing little pieces and so forth. That's more of a headache than I was willing to risk. So, let it be said that while my quick fix may not be the most permanent solution, it could be good enough for you. A few disclaimers: I did this on a late '71 240. From my understanding, the turn signals run through the Hazard Switch, so it's possible one's issue is with the Hazard Switch, not the Turn Signal Switch. If, like me, your hazards work fine, but any of your turn signals don't, then we're in it together. It is possible that your problem cannot be fixed by my method - maybe your contacts are bent rather than dirty. Most importantly - I am no expert when it comes to wiring, electricity and all that, but that's precisely how I got where I did... I am, however, certain one of the more educated in this forum (of which there are many) could elucidate anything I left unclear. What You Need: Brake Cleaner or Electrical/Contact Cleaner A Wire Brush Oil (I used 3 in 1 but others use Grade 20 oil) A Screwdriver A Bowl Take out your turn signal and move to a bench for cleaning. Keep an eye out for anything falling out that shouldn't during removal. Get over a bowl and spray the whole assembly down with your cleaner. Do this two or three times to get all the easy dirt and grime off. The bowl will both keep your work area clean and catch any little bits and pieces that could unfortunately fall out during the process. Once you've gotten all you can off just by spraying, take your wire brush and scrape off any remaining dirt. Be as careful as you can. Pay close attention to the moving and sliding parts. If it looks dirty, it probably is. Spray and scrape until you feel satisfied. Very scientific. Now, unscrew the two screws holding the blinker switch housing to the rest of the assembly. Inside are the contacts for your turn signals - the point of failure and the thing we're really here to fix. With the the blinker switch free, spray into the internal part of the switch. Don't go full blast when spraying as the cleaners can have a lot of force behind their spray and you don't want to disrupt any of the more delicate parts held within. Rock the sliding bit back and forth several times in an effort to more effectively clean the inside. Do this several times - spraying and sliding back and forth. Now, take your oil and drip it into the housing from the same entry point used to spray in the cleaner. Once again, slide back and forth to work the oil in. Ideally, you should be able to slide all the way up and down smoothly and easily. If not, spray it down, oil it, and slide it around again as many times as you have to 'til it all seems to work smoothly. Once you're satisfied, screw the contact housing back in and clean up any oil that got out of the housing. There'll probably be a good bit of it - it's quick and dirty after all! Take your oil and lubricate the other parts of the mechanism circled in the third picture, once again working them in. Take the time to check your connectors and headlight ground to see if they're clean. Clean them as needed. Move the turn signal one last time, see if it feels good. If it does, put everything back on the car and give it a test! My turn signals worked like new! Here are a few more technical resources I used in developing my idea and I recommend you watch/read them before doing anything. They'll at least help acquaint you with precisely what's going on: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bpnIxzrJoEA&list=LL&index=5&ab_channel=DatsunDave07 There's another part to this video and other more detailed videos on his channel. https://woodworkerb.com/home/datsun-240z-rebuild/blinker-detail/
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