Topics Last 30 Days

I have one of the one piece ones now, to install. Just have to find the thread where the Z member documents the best way to do the install

Correct……Always do one carb at a time….piston and dome are precision matched. One more thing, make sure the needles haven’t been bent.

Nice ad. If they did it thoughtfully, there might also be promotional value in highlighting two other successful Datsun models from the early 1970's: the 510 sedan (contrast with Rogue), and the 520 pickup (contrast with Titan). Not too many buyers in 2025 realize that the pecking order for Japanese imports back then was Datsun-Honda-Toyota, rather than today's Toyota-Honda-Mazda/Subaru. The decision to re-brand from 'Datsun' to 'Nissan' (1977?) was such an unnecessary a disaster. The bland-mobile 1980's models didn't help either.

Nissan themselves told us - it's LITERALLY written in their technical literature for 'our' cars - that the electroplated finish on the non-chrome components was Zinc, either 'clear' or with other passivated top finishes. Cadmium plating was already banned for commercial automotive use in Japan before 'our' cars were made, so - naturally - there's no mention of Cadmium in the technical literature. People have talked about 'Cad' plating on cars for decades - especially in North America - and it simply became part of the vernacular. Just like 'Mag' wheels that weren't actually Magnesium anymore. Old habits die hard. Did the VZ Program cars receive actual Cadmium plating on specified components when they were rebuilt, or was that too an example of vernacular use? If they did receive Cadmium plated components then we can chalk it up as yet another non-original finish on cars which were never claimed to be such. I will continue to call out people who cite processes and specifications on the VZ Program cars as somehow being evidence of what Nissan and its various suppliers did when the cars were originally made. Hardly logical, let alone scientific. I've had to deal with 50+ year old fasteners on these cars too, and the single biggest factor involved is the environment that the 50+ year old fastener lived in during its use. Fasteners on a car that spent those 50+ years in southern California may well be happy to cooperate, but a fastener that has spent the same period in regularly cold, wet and often salty conditions will look - and behave - very differently. Pretty much any electroplating with a sacrificial coating will succumb under such conditions. I'm sure Honeywell Space and Strategic Systems should rightly command our respect, but far from "putting men on the moon and probes on other planets" we are dealing with a question that can be answered simply by looking at the technical literature that the manufacturer published when the cars were made. To coin a phrase, that's not rocket science.

If they fall down can you still get them back up into position? I saw a guy on youtube that unbolted the hinge on the door side first and after the got the car side with a wrench and swivel sockets. I might try to go that route as the car doesn’t fit in the garage (and still work on it, only 2m wide for the first 4 meters). I do have a lager carport where I park the car under to work on it so the car is still dry. That does mean I’ll have to cover the car if I take the doors off but I had to do that anyway.

Countdown!! I got 100 miles on it: And those 100 test miles made it clear that I need front struts:

I like to use a wooden shim. Find one that is the right thickness and mark it with a sharpy. Works really well...

Sedan racing

Hi cgsheen1! Thanks for the recommendations. I am running the latest version of Microsquirt, 440cc Bosch injectors, Spartan 3 v2, crank 36-1 wheel with HALL sensor, LM7 truck coils with batch firing, AZC oil pan. I will try making Microsquirt work with the turbo (no sequential ignition). I have only one output left (relay) which I can use for an electric fan, for ex. I was aiming for 8-10 lbs of boost to play it safe and keeping my stock rear diff/half-shafts alive. I looked up some parts from rockauto and here is a list if it works? EXEDY 06030 clutch kit, 1975 2+2 Flywheel: AMS AUTOMOTIVE / RHINOPAC 167304, for 2+2 model Throwout bearing, WJB / INMOTION PARTS WRDNE01576C (any manufacturer preference?) Hopefully, if the car parts are for 2+2 model, I am not going to run into any issues with the fitment/clutch fork throw. I just installed a brand new master and slave clutch cylinders (for my 280z 1976 model). Will this create a problem? (I checked the part numbers, they are the same for 76 and 75, I think I should be good here). I started a thread here on hybridz dealing with my project: https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/136053-76-280z-microsquirt-project/ Thanks! Den

I have no idea if I did or not, but feel free to copy it over there, or maybe @Mike can duplicate the post there.

Actually, because of safety, some organizing bodies forbid chest straps without something to hold the shoulder belts from slipping out.

I appreciate the explanation and truly feel your pain doing this in the vehicle.

Bit late to the party but I believe my 280z came with the same or allmost the same wheels. Don’t know if they are modified as I haven’t taken the wheels off yet but I must say they look pretty good under my silver Z. Attached is one of the pictures from the auction I bought the car from. The seller also included the original set of wheels but I prefer these. Tire size is 225/60R14 in the rear and 195/70R14 in the front.

Ok I will check on that tomorrow and will update you guys, thanks for the help. I appreciate it a bunch.

Well done Ken. Perseverance par excellence! Dashboards are not fund to work on.

Understood Darom! If you decide you don’t need them and want to get rid of them, just shoot me a message. Thanks!

Hi, I don't think he will respond, but you can get your parts from: Z-Services.eu | Shop for Datsun 240Z, 260Z & 280Z I also have a lot of parts for Z's not specific for the 280z as this was never a euro car.. Oh and yes as my name says i'm from the Netherlands too.

Horror House on Highway Five (1985)

Back to normal programming. This 240Z auction is ending today but it's already up to $23,000. Kind of surprising considering its unusual appearance. It does look clean though. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-293/

Sure thing!

Rear view mirror, with attach brackets and sun visor support pads, including screws. Missing knob to adjust mirror.

For sale is a rebuilt circuit board for the 75-78 280z OEM clock. The circuit boad is usually what fails. Cost is $80 (includes shipping). For questions contact me at: ron@zclocks.com. Thanks for looking....

I remember my older brother and Dad were swapping a clutch. I jumped in the car, pushed the clutch to the floor, blowing out the slave cylinder. I got out of the car and started running! Fun times. My Dad is now 87 and loves to brag on my mechanic ability. He's my biggest fan.....now. Lots of great memories.

All, The mounted muffler appears to be silver. The unmounted muffler (photos 2 and 3 above) have a greenish tint. Any consensus on the correct color? Thanks, Keith