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ArcticFoxCJ

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About ArcticFoxCJ


  • User Group: Members


  • Member ID: 35252


  • Rank: ContribuZor


  • Content Count: 43


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  • Reputation: 12


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  • Joined: 04/24/2021


  • Been With Us For: 398 Days


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  • Map Location
    Laurel, MD
  • Occupation
    Digerati

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    280z

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    unixknight
  • Skype ID
    unixknight

Zcar VIN Registry

  • Zcar 1 VIN
    HLS30-412123

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  1. Just for fun, here's mine and its current state:
  2. That makes a lot of sense, thanks. For what they charge for that part on KF Vintage I don't want to have to do that much work to it. Since the one I have has a few holes but no major rust damage, I'll just repair it.
  3. Yeah the 280ZX is definitely a very different car. As far as I know there are no interchangeable body parts at all.
  4. Hey all, As I understand it, most body components are interchangeable between different S30 models. I notice there's a Radiator Core Support for sale from KF Vintage and they only list it for the 240Z... Does anyone know if this is also usable on the 280Z? They don't seem to have one listed for the 280Z but maybe it isn't a problem? https://kfvintagejdm.com/shop/datsun/radiator-support-kit/ Mine is not too terrible to patch up, but I'm considering replacing it anyway.
  5. Didn't get much done on mine over the winter, but now that things are warmer and (kind of) more dry I finally got the engine the rest of the way torn down and it's at the machine shop at last.
  6. Well the reason I was taking it off in the first place was to take the block to a machine shop to get it reconditioned anyway. When I got the car compression was a joke and even though it was probably just stuck rings, I wanted to start off fresh.
  7. Now, I found the M90 on Amazon but it insists that this part number won't fit my 1977 280Z. Is that just because this is an upgrade that still works fine?
  8. Well that wasn't so bad... I took my trusty angle grinder and sliced the housing at the point of the stuck bolt, and it popped right off. Thanks for all the info and advice gents. The tips you gave me really did help even if I didn't take the exact approach recommended. The best part was learning how ubiquitous these oil pups are so I can easily get a replacement.
  9. I'll give that a shot. To be honest, with the massive sludge and slime that was in the oil pan, I'm not entirely sure this pump is even viable... But I'd rather not replace it if I can avoid it.
  10. Thanks, though the problem there is is looks like one of the 2 bolts that holds the two halves together is inaccessible when it's mounted on the engine. Unless I'm misinterpreting what I'm seeing...
  11. One bolt broken, one fully loose but won't come out, and the pump housing itself absolutely refuses to come out. I can twist it slightly back and forth, but have made not even 1mm of progress getting it to come off. I'm trying to get this engine disassembled so it can go to the machine shop to be reconditioned, and I'm tempted to just have them remove the pump by any means necessary and replace it.
  12. Thanks. I do have the auto darkening mask, so there's that at least. And yeah, I also learned through trial and error to keep the wire short! Off the top of my head I forget the diameter of the wire I'm using now.
  13. Yeah I got a copper backing piece the other day... Sticks on with magnets. Too late for this particular spot unless I start over but will come in handy as I continue... And yeah the rest of the car. This was the first place I started welding on. As I feel more confident I am seriously considering the gas welder. I feel like if I get it now, my skill level won't do it justice yet.
  14. Mine is a dedicated flux core welder, so I don't have the option of reversing the polarity and adding gas. I'm coming at it as an absolute noob. I was an ASE Certified Master Auto Technician 20 years ago but I never got into welding in any meaningful way. My future son-in-law is a professional stick welder and he showed me a couple tricks but MIG/flux isn't his strong suit. I'm certain that it's the thin-ness of the metal. It's 20 gauge cold rolled steel. This welder is capable of a way higher duty cycle than I'm using it for here. I fully acknowledge that, as a newbie, this particular type of repair is diving into the deep end of the pool.
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