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TomoHawk

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About TomoHawk


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  • Member ID: 1411


  • Title: 1978 280Z (stock)


  • Content Count: 7,767


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  • Joined: 05/12/2002


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TomoHawk last won the day on March 13 2016

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  • Map Location
    NorthCoast, Ohio
  • Occupation
    scientist/chemist/computer prog/ I.T. Instructor

My Cars

  • About my Cars
    Mostly stock and original.<br />
    <br />
    1972 Ford Escort RS 2000 (sold to collector)<br />
    1976 Mustang II fastback ( V-6, gave to cousin)

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  1. Thast's not an issue. It's a problem. There is a difference. Please learn to use correct English, not liberal jargon.
  2. I had time and the need to make one, so I did. I cut the entire front seat belt from a modern front-wheel-drive car at the pull-it-yourself JY, and used heavy-duty Velcro from the sewing store. It worked well on a track with many tight turns. You get 6 feet of belt for the front seat!?? Just be careful not to cut off your breathing or immobilize your arms. Being in safe control is more important than strapping yourself to a seat. Autocross Chest Strap.pdf
  3. mine makes a whizzing noise with the starter disabled.
  4. It should only have 12V after about 10 seconds, if the thermotime switch is working correctly. Otherwise, it should have 0 volts when you first turn on the power. In any case, test it under a load. Have you downloaded the Fuel Injection Bible, and flowwed the troubleshooting charts?
  5. You didn't define what you were intending to do with throttle position. But you are essentially correct; it tells the ECU if the the throttle valve is fully closed or fully open.
  6. There is one there already. It's in your foot! 😉 The L-Jetronic EFI system doesn't need one, unless you are trying to re-engineer things.
  7. Thanks man What I did was to go to my AP store (Autozone) and get a Wells DR100 Ignition Module. It's a Duralast product.
  8. I lost the box that my GM HEI module was in, and I forgot to make a record of what I had. My docs say to use a Wells model #DR100 4-pin GM HEI module. Would someone please give some examples of which vehicles had the generic DR100 module? Those kids in the AP stores only know "Make, Model, and Year" to put into a computer. You can't even get a quart of 15W-30 oil for a lawn mower... ThxZ
  9. Is that tight? IIRC, the brown one is for the headlamps, so you want to make sure that is the correct size. It looks a bit thin.
  10. The only way(s) to see if it's sticking and why is to remover the AFM and look inside, or take the cover off the side.
  11. It looks like you could only make changes to how the L-Jet ECU works if you had the original Bosch circuit diagrams and operation flowchart. But at least you can fool around with small changes in the coolant sensor.
  12. If you are interested in a less electronic way to tune the fuel injection, Autospeed.com has some good technical articles you read and try: One uses an accelerometer in stead of the S-O-P method. BTW- the accelerometer is also useful for determining shift points. https://www.autospeed.com
  13. You must be thinking of old computer peripheral or I/O adapter cards, that use the microswitches to set up the port settings, card address, etc.
  14. You can get a cryo-freeze spray for electronics, but I don't know who sells that now.
  15. Well... there is that one big integrated circuit in a metal can which does all the complicated stuff. When I had computer 101, we learned that a computer had a CPU, short-term memory (RAM), long-term memory (hard/floppy drive) and can start & stop programs at will until you turned it off. Micrprocessors in cars are similar because they have a CPU and memory (RAM and flash memory) ( think of the Arduino things) and only operate one kind or system or devices in a vehicle (engine, transmission, electrical (lights/security/heat/windows) entertainment, etc. Each begins running a single, but very sophisticated, program when you turn on the main power, and runs it until the power is turned off.
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