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TomoHawk last won the day on March 13 2016

TomoHawk had the most liked content!

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About TomoHawk

  • Rank
    1978 280Z (stock)

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  • Map Location
    NorthCoast, Ohio


  • Gender
  • Interests
    Classic rock Music, Yacht Racing, sports cars, cycling, and GOD
  • Occupation
    scientist/chemist/computer prog/ I.T. Instructor

My Z Cars

  • About My Cars
    Mostly stock and original.<br />
    <br />
    1972 Ford Escort RS 2000 (sold to collector)<br />
    1976 Mustang II fastback ( V-6, gave to cousin)

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  1. I have a Midland 75-822 CB radio and I would like to get the adapter to use it in the car. The part is #18-821. I know people here have bought them, and maybe there are some surplus adapters. The dry cell battery box is available, and I suppose you could solder some wires into it to plug into a 12V source, but you still need the antenna connection, unless you rely on the stubby antenna which probably won't nave much range, but at least better than an FRS radio. ThxZ
  2. TomoHawk

    Gm HEI upgrade on a 78 280Z

    That's what I did: cleaned out the old "ungrease" polished off the burrs and reassembled with good grease. It helped some. I mentioned before- that FastWoman got hers to work normally by cleaing out the old grease from inside the motor case, and cleaning the internal electrical contacts.
  3. TomoHawk

    Gm HEI upgrade on a 78 280Z

    My wiper linkages have been cleaned to death, and I lubricate (with DeOxit and light oil) everything regularly, especially after driving in the rain, so I'm sure that's not why its swiping slowly. Sarah (FastWoman) mentioned to me that she was successfully able to restore the speed of her wiper motor by jut cleaning the internals and the power contacts. It makes sense, but the insides are very complicated, IMO.
  4. TomoHawk

    Gm HEI upgrade on a 78 280Z

    Mine looks like some water got in the box as well. I should test the power transistor to see if it's still good- I suspect it's degraded or just dead. If that's the case, I'd say the wiper amp suffers from the same problem, which wold explain the slow wipers. Then I'd take a look inside to see if you could build a better one with modern parts. BTW- where can you get a NEW wiper amp unit?
  5. TomoHawk

    Gm HEI upgrade on a 78 280Z

    I don't really understand what you mean by 'it'll come back again some time in the future,' Bruce. I think it was a good thing to replace the factory ignition module. The engine seems to run more smoothly, and I've gone about 45 miles in the suburbs with the gas gauge needle moving only slightly, when, for the same driving with the old setup, I would've used about 1/8 tank. I'll have more data after next weekend, when I will be going about 400 miles. I'm also still interested in adding a remote relay or a kill switch to the 12V feed coil. It's probably better than putting a SPST switch on the distributor sensor wires- I think that's what killed the old ignition module, even though it was missing some anyway. You could easily disguise a SPST switch as a gauge lighting dimmer knob...
  6. TomoHawk

    Gm HEI upgrade on a 78 280Z

    I can't explain it, but the rev counter started working after I taped up the unused connectors. The thing only needs some adjustments and a tune.
  7. TomoHawk

    Engine Temperature Sensor Woes

    I still plan to put on a kill switch for the new module. Would you prefer to break te switched 12V line, or the connection from the + pole on the coil to the B terminal on the module? I think the first location would be preferred, as that is what occurs when you turn onn the keyswitch. I have a remote 10A relay that would be ideal for that.
  8. TomoHawk

    Engine Temperature Sensor Woes

    It doesn't make sense, but since the engine was operating (smoothly) I drove around the block to test it a little, then put the cover back onto the ECU, taped up the un-used ring terminals from the distributor junction block, and the rev counter started working. It still needs a proper tuner some adjustments, but I put about 12 miles on it today.
  9. TomoHawk

    Engine Temperature Sensor Woes

    I did install a generic GM HEI ignition module, and it works fine; the engine runs smoothly without backfires, but the rev counter is not responding, so I'll look into why that is so. If this new ignition module works out, I'll consider the performance Pertronix one, and put the generic one in my spares kit. Would you say all the trouble is worth the $400 for a replacement OE ignition box?
  10. TomoHawk

    Gm HEI upgrade on a 78 280Z

    Yes, the first thing I did was to unbolt and unplug the old ignition box. It's sitting here on my desk. Then I traced the blue wire from the - side of the coil to pin #1 on the ECU, as well as checking the other important things (grounds and power) according to the 280Z EFI handbook. Then I connected the HEI module. So right now, the tach needle isn't moving at all. Before, it would twitch a small bit while cranking. I thought there was a second (black) wire on the - side of the coil, but I don't see it now.
  11. TomoHawk

    Gm HEI upgrade on a 78 280Z

    My condensor is on the + side of the coil. Should I add another, or switch it? Where do you get condensors? the only on I've seem lately was at the lawn mower section at the DIY store.
  12. TomoHawk

    Gm HEI upgrade on a 78 280Z

    I finally got the GM module installed, and the engine runs smoothly, but the tachometer isn't responding. I have a blue wire attached to the (-) pole of the coil, and I understand that supplies the spark signal to the ECU. The wiring diagram also shows another wire (Blk/Wht) that goes to the (-) pole, bur I can't find that one anywhere in the area. Has anyone else installed the HEI module and still have the tachometer working?
  13. TomoHawk

    Gm HEI upgrade on a 78 280Z

    I looked at the Pertronix D2070 Module mentioned here, and the description says "race only." It sounds like it's for a 'performance' application, but isn't a L28 (or similar) engine the right thing to go with it? The description says, This is a race module that only draws 7.2 amps, a module that's optimized for the 6,000 to 8,500 rpm range. I can understand the RPM spec, but I dunno what the 7.2 Amps means, with regard to the L28E engine. That's 86W from the ignition switch or relay.
  14. TomoHawk

    1978 280Z Windshield Wipers

    I had an idea, that since many people are upgrading things to electronic control, would there be an advantage to just replacing the old, factory wiper amplifier module? With all the 40+ year-old ignition modules I hear of going bad, I'm likely to believe that the electronics (transistors/semiconductors) inside the module could benefit by being replaced with a module built with the most modern semiconductors. You'd need to get an amplifier in working condition and reverse-engineer it, to come up with one that is an exact replacement, but with better semiconductors.
  15. TomoHawk

    Engine Temperature Sensor Woes

    Right now, the rev counter is (dead) since there is no spark from the HT wire. The last time the engine 'ran' the revs were really jumpy- steady 800 a second, then blip to 14, then quit. I agree it might be an ignition module problem. This might be a chance to switch to the GM HEI module.

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