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TomoHawk

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TomoHawk last won the day on March 13 2016

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About TomoHawk

  • Rank
    1978 280Z (stock)

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Map Location
    NorthCoast, Ohio
  • Occupation
    scientist/chemist/computer prog/ I.T. Instructor

My Z Cars

  • Interests
    Classic rock Music, Yacht Racing, sports cars, cycling, and GOD
  • About My Cars
    Mostly stock and original.<br />
    <br />
    1972 Ford Escort RS 2000 (sold to collector)<br />
    1976 Mustang II fastback ( V-6, gave to cousin)

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  1. TomoHawk

    Legitimacy of AFR gauges

    You may be interested in this inexpensive thing, to try for fun. DISPLAY FUEL MIXTURE MODULE EGO 10LED
  2. TomoHawk

    Legitimacy of AFR gauges

    The problem is that an oxygen sensor in the exhaust stream can't tell you what the fuel mixture in the intake manifold is, precisely. You make a LOT of presumptions, and people accept what the gauge says as an exact, scientific answer. You can buy pre-built displays cheaply from electronic kit companies, but it's just as easy to build one yourself, if you have the skill. Because the signal can change quickly, you would be better off color-coding the voltmeter, for rich, about-right, and lean.
  3. TomoHawk

    Legitimacy of AFR gauges

    Tjereis no "calibration" needed. You install the oxygen sensor in the exhaust pipe and hook it up to the gauge.
  4. TomoHawk

    280Z High Beam Switch Repair

    If I had a bit of brass sheet (about 2.5mm thick) I think I could make the part. It looks like a U. The turn signals weren't engaging too well, I think because the spring in the switch which presses the brass part against the contacts, was weak. Do you know what's inside the dimmer switch? It'll help to know if you take the cover off. I could dowse that as well. DeOxit 5% has the cleaning/deoxidizng chemical, plus a kind of lubricant. A used one goes for $100 on eBay, and ZCarSource "rebuilds" them for $200...
  5. TomoHawk

    Legitimacy of AFR gauges

    I have an L28E with L-Jet EFI. I was thinking of building an AFR (air-fuel ratio) gauge using some common electronics stuff. It lights up LEDs from a signal generated by a narrow-band oxygen sensor in the exhaust pipe. But, I question the legitimacy and accuracy of the gauge. How does oxygen in the exhaust tell you how much air and fuel is going into the cylinders? There is no sensor that will do that, and it would go into the intake manifold, not the exhaust pipe. The best you can do is to use a modern engine, with a programmable controller to measure the air (via the AFM) and calculate the amount of fuel inject from the fuel pressure and the injection timing, then calculate the AFR. Measuring the oxygen in the exhaust does not tell you what is going into the cylinders. The best you can do with that method is to guess at what the AFR is, with presumptions of engine perfection (you would need an engine that is perfectly built, in perfect operating condition, producing a 100% perfect combustion of what did go into the cylinder.) So using one of the so-called AFR meters is a bunch of hooey, and the value it gives you cannot be trusted. Using a narrow-band oxygen sensor, the signal will jump around, from a relatively lean (say 15:1) to a relatively rich (about 12:1) mixture- IF you believe the theory of these sensors. It's logical to say that the amount of oxygen detected by the sensor, is proportional to an amount f air, but it cannot tell you the AFR. It only tells you there is oxygen/air in the exhaust. I have read a lot about wide-band sensors, but I'd say it is the same as any other oxygen sensor. The AFR display I will be building, if you are electronically-skilled, is based on the LM3814 LED driver chip, and lights LEDs, linearly, in proportion to the signal. And the best you can do is to adjust the mixture so the display moves around enough to get an "average." then do some on-road or dynomometer testing to get your desired mixture. Or, you could use an exhaut gas analyzer to adjust the mixture based on theCO content, whic is similar to the oxygen content adjustments.
  6. TomoHawk

    280Z High Beam Switch Repair

    Meanwhile, the turn signal switch had broken; the brass piece of metal in the switch which moves to make the contact had worn so much that it was broken. I don't suppose anyone has a spare? Other than that, I think the dimmer switch probably needs to be cleaned.
  7. TomoHawk

    280Z High Beam Switch Repair

    Nissan also names a driveshaft, what most people call half-shafts, and the driveshaft is called a "propshaft." The dimmer switch is sometimes called a combination switch because it's a combination dimmer and turn signal switch. Maybe if you refer to each part (i.e., turn signal or dimmer switch) of it instead of giving it a more general name is better.
  8. TomoHawk

    280Z High Beam Switch Repair

    So... I removed the high-beam switch from the car to test and clean it on my workbench, and the thing was stuck on high-beam. Even if you switch it to low-beam, when you probe the switch terminals, it's still on high-beam. You can send the switch to ZCarSource, who I believe owns what was left of MSA's inventory, and along with their machining and technical department, can rebuild your turn signal/high-beam switch for about $200. I bought a used switch from an eBay seller, and hopefully it will get the car to a working condition for another year. Rod's Datsun Parts in Los Angeles will sell you a used switch for $300, so I'd rather have a used one rebuilt. Other than that, you will have to eventually retro-fit an antique or aftermarket turn signal switch with a high-beam function. Fortunately, the connections to the main wiring isn't that complicated.
  9. TomoHawk

    280Z High Beam Switch Repair

    I finished the work on the headlamps, and I think they are brighter now. I cleaned (de-oxidized with DeOxit 100) the large C-9 connector by the junction box, and the connectors for the beam switch, and the multi-pin connector- both underneath the steering column. They had showed some black stuff on the plastic around the (round) pins, which I think might be from some overheating. But after de-oxidizing, thee pins were brighter, so they should not get so hot. Here is a photo of the C-9 connector, highlighted in yellow.
  10. TomoHawk

    Ignition Rev counter with Bluetooth

    The Zed doesn't have the OBD data system
  11. Is there such a thing as a an ignition sensor/rev counter with a bluetooth output, so you can watch the Revs on a phone or computer? Or how bout just a coil or spark sensor with bluetooth? Some racing loggers can display the revs if you have OBD (which a Zed doesn't have) or a bluetooth SPP adapter.
  12. TomoHawk

    280Z High Beam Switch Repair

    Yes. I made up a heavy shunt to the chassis and plugged it into the terminals for the high-beam switch, and AFAICT, there was no noticeable difference. I also tested the resistance across the switch, which also showed no or very little resistance. Then I got out my can of eOxit-100 and started cleaning all the terminals, plus the ones on the firewall junction block, just to make sure every terminal to the entire car was cleaned. I was looking for the wires that went to the headlamps. Then, I noted a large 6-terminal connector, like the one for the tail lamps, which had 10-gauge wires going to it, matching the color codes for the headlamps! I treated those terminals with DeOxit and turned on the headlights. It seemed brighter in the garage, but it was day, and not very dark, inside even with the door down. After I get the steering wheel on, I'll take it out at night and check it in the driveway (which is 250 feet long, and the door has lines that align nicely with the headlamps for aiming. I'll get you a photo of the connector. it seemed to be hiding behind the junction block, and I hadn't noticed it until now. I'm surprised that it's not mentioned in the FSM, but the Diagram is on page BE-16, and he connector ID is C-9 (highlighted by the red arrow in this graphic.) What I think is odd is that only some of the headlamp wires go though connector C-9 and others go through the smaller connectors in the junction block.
  13. TomoHawk

    Removing Clock Arms

    You can colour the LED with a green marker, if you like the green colour.
  14. I don't use the rear defog grid and I always fasten my seat belts, so those two warning lamps aren't needed in my car. In stead, I've already re-purposed the defog switch for the spot lamps, and I don't know what you could do with the seat belts lamp- any ideas? Maybe something like an switched auxiliary 12V socket, a switched USB charging port, or a warning for the lock-up torque converter... A computer CPU-fan supercharger? 😋 And so, I'd like to re-label the blue defog lamp face to read "SPOT." Can you get clear plastic faces, or would it be easy to make them? then, you could use a label-maker with clear labels to put new wording on the lamps. You may even want to change the bulbs to LEDs.
  15. TomoHawk

    280Z High Beam Switch Repair

    In stead of wiring it "permanently," as in the video, I'd suggest using a switch at that point, so if you think you will be using the high-beams, you can switch them on both on for short periods, or switching off the low-beam temporary ground for extended high-beam use.
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