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I can see your point here, but people who are in the classic car business, would disagree with that... real collectors would want matching numbers Would regular people at a car show care about VIN numbers ? I think you'r right in that part.. NO

I would put this in a museum and leave as is... ( engine and gearbox out ) for future generations. I don't see a point in restoring something with a non matching engine to it.. Cool to say you got 181, but what's the point ?

Carbs are not designed to have an electric pump feeding them ( unless the manufacturer wanted it ). Many people don't seem to understand how carbs work instead of fuel injection these days... Yes the fuel lines need to go from tank directly to the mechanical pump... , remove the electric pump. Don't forget the spacer plate between the block and mechanical pump.. Sorry to say this, but your best bet will to rebuild the carbs to OEM spec, THEN adjust them properly.

Exactly. It depends on where you are though. We can't get redline MT90 here in Europe. But I'm using the classic line from Kroon Oils here, and that's about the same stuff I think. It's formulated for the old post war cars. Never had problems, and my 4 speed hasn't been open since new. There's a slight difficulty going in 2nd gear when cold, but when it's warmed up everythings fine. I'm only using everything from the classic oils line, for my mustang to. I won't put modern oil in these old birds...

More low VIN's will keep popping up I'm sure. Some just haven't been discovered yet.. Back in the day people just parked them or left them in a barn somewhere when repairs got to much and never looked back..

Prob more rust, if you have it dipped or soda blasted... you can see what's really left of it :O Yeah to bad the engine is not there..

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-Datsun-Z-Series-240-Z/292640240059?hash=item4422b7b1bb:g:xc8AAOSwI-dbSRKf&vxp=mtr or search Ebay: datsun 240z , the z cars, the black one 11/69 factory stamp

No, only in summer. But I have a US spec 240Z.. I think it has more to to with the state of the parts/ethanol free fuel though

Yes, seeing those pictures, the state those parts are in ( if that is yours or just an example pic ?! ). Make sure everything is in good condition first. Like 87mj says about the fuel lines make sure the fight tight, and the hoses are black and new, ethanol free fuel helps to. I work with carbs all the time for my work ( bike carbs, but the act the same as SU's.. ), the problems ethanol gas ( although it's still only max 10% here ) can give are huge. Everything in the fuel system from tank to carb, needs to be clean, free flowing, and air tight, or else you will have problems. Do you have the spacer ( isolator ) between the fuel pump ? Mine was missing to with the previous owner, I just noticed it when rebuilding the engine.

Even with 100 degrees, it shouldn't happen. I think this has more to do with a ( proper tune/some parts not functioning correctly/quality of the gasoline ), then so called vapor lock. I've driven my z in 40+ C days ( 105 F ), without any issues. I do only use ethanol free fuel... Vapor Lock is air in the system, there's an underlying problem you need to find.

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Yes, if you know what your doing, it's not that hard actually. I did mine to like you can see above.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1971-Datsun-Z-Series/222995305621?hash=item33eb8e5495:g:usAAAOSwLs9bC3L0&vxp=mtr It's a 70 for sure, seems in a good condition for restoration

doesn't look like the right seal to me

Ebay has used ones for around 270 and rebuild for 500