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Careless

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Careless last won the day on August 17 2017

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About Careless

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My Z Cars

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    300zx

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  1. Careless

    Deja Vu: 1971 Restoration

    yeah, the P.T. or Cone-lock nuts are deemed non-reversible, and thus non-reusable if removed... Jam-nuts or nylocks are a much better replacement. Thouuuuuuuuuuuuugh I usually test the PT nuts for larger threads like that by using a stubby wrench. If it's very hard to turn with my palm as the only way to make use of what little leverage there is, I'll reuse them.
  2. Careless

    Deja Vu: 1971 Restoration

    regardless of bushing type, you should always do a bolt check after a few hundred miles. after installing poly bushings on the front and rear of my z31, the bolts definitely loosened up after a week of driving around.
  3. Careless

    Thinking about installing an BMW M6 engine in my Z

    When I was with grannyknot in the garage and he was showing me this latest moderfication, I had mentioned that as well- but he brought up a good point. you could just loosen the nut on the bushing end and it will spin inside the bushing cup when it's being elongated or shortened. If it had a bracketed or cross bolted round bushing of some kind on both ends that required removal and refitting to adjust, then a turnbuckle would make more sense. I was thinking of my 88 Z31's tc rods and turnbuckles the whole time for some reason so it didn't dawn on me until he mentioned it. you would end up with a deviation from any kind of bushing compression setting you had if you change the effective length of the tc rod... but you could get real close by estimating how many turns of the ratchet were made to loosen the bushing nut... ... or just use german torque specs (gootentite), since he has a german power-plant now. I hear he's even traded most of his JIS tools for that yucky cumbersome DIN stuff now.
  4. Careless

    Thinking about installing an BMW M6 engine in my Z

    Chris, did you thread the side that was welded + turn it a few threads into the coupling nut or turn it down in diameter so it has a peg that slides partway into the coupling nut- or did you weld them face to face?
  5. Careless

    Deja Vu: 1971 Restoration

    I did the same thing with the lines/ you'll probably want to cap the lines off with rubber vacuum caps.
  6. Careless

    Thinking about installing an BMW M6 engine in my Z

    did you happen to rock any of the valves side to side or manage to check the openings of the valve guides at all with a caliper or something to check stem clearance? I was wondering if the front 3 cylinders had poor valve guide clearance, which can contribute to a tiny bit of oil getting in even if the valve seals are new.
  7. Careless

    Deja Vu: 1971 Restoration

    In your photos of your quarter windows- the top-rear "corner" of the installed passenger side looks like the seal is folded in behind the corner piece. Looking at the '71 I have here, I don't even see the screw tabs, and there is no gap whatsoever- and the seal is even all the way around. Did you put the little rubber shims in that area to puff it up and get a good seal there? Perhaps your seal bunched up in the corner and now the window won't fully seat. Doesn't the interior panel kind of sneak over the tabs anyways, and but up close to the window to cover them? I haven't taken the '71 interior panel off yet, so I won't know for sure if it's painted until I do (maybe tonight).
  8. Careless

    Deja Vu: 1971 Restoration

    RE: Quarter window install I was looking at photos of the two cars that are here... 1969 and 1970. I don't see any painting of the body contour/lip that holds the window frame in, though the tabs that the screws bolt through are not visible on the 1971 so they may be painted black on that year- that particular 1971 car has been painted at least once... is that something they did on the 71's or late 70's, perhaps- or it just a recommended thing to do for aesthetic reasons if anyone happens to take the windows off to replace the seals? Within the early 1970 pictures that were provided to me as it was delivered, there are a lot of things that are different as far as black paint goes for hiding bright body colour portions that show through on the interior/exterior. I think I am going to go with the photos provided at the time of disassembly for this particular case/car. When I get around to the 1969 car, that one will have a bit more attention put towards the body/finishes. The 1970 has had some weird stuff done to it. I like what I see here, motorman7! lookin pretty damn noiiiiiiice!
  9. Careless

    Thinking about installing an BMW M6 engine in my Z

    Are the holes on the long shim identical on the one side so that you can use another long one and just cut it a bit longer than the short one so it can be bent over the edge between the main cap and oil pump mount? In any case, I am glad you found out that what seemed to be the cause of the bearing failure was as apparent as it turned out to be and the shim seems like a dead give-away to me- that's a good thing IMHO! Having to rebuild an engine again sucks, but I'm sure you agree that not having a single clue as to why it f'd off in the first place sucks even more!
  10. Careless

    Thinking about installing an BMW M6 engine in my Z

    IMHO- quite the contrary. if I were to count the number of cars I was under or half-way into when I said "How did someone get a pay-cheque for designing this?", I would say German cars top the list. Completely unnecessary parts with exaggerated importance in a lot of places. Most of their "afterthoughts" are the product of subsequent "overthoughts". If anyone would like to give me a good reason as to why Porsche would use self-tapping sheet metal screws to secure cam phasing solenoids to the cylinder heads on some of their more recent engines- I'd like to also know what time and day of the week they decided that a common DIN metric threaded fastener wasn't sufficient enough as it was for the passed 30 years when used for the same purpose. I don't think I'll ever get a good enough reason as to why that is. In this case, BMW could have easily designed these shims with material near the oiling hole just a smiiiiidge longer and bent over the between the main cap and the oil hole flange. It looks like it would fit there without issue and prevent it from spinning... I'm actually not surprised it's done this way... as per my comment above. They're great engines when they're running in tip-top shape- but there are certain things I would never forgive an engine designer for implementing. BMW has other types of shims for other motors, apparently. They span from one side to the other: I wonder if they will work as is. Even if they don't quite fit across the crank like on this particular motor, I'd use these instead and just cut it to an appropriate legnth so that it has a tab to bend over. Should be easy with tin-snips/shears.
  11. Careless

    Thinking about installing an BMW M6 engine in my Z

    what did the previous guy actually do when he rebuilt the engine? just resurface the head and check the clearances and replace bits and pieces? any head work? for 1, 2, 3 oily cylinders- use flashlight in the intake and exhaust ports. check for oil or sludge build up on the valve stems or on the backs of the intake valves. perhaps leaking valve seals or worn valve guides. One thing i noticed in your head/block photos... that head gasket (whatever make it is)... before you reorder it or use the same style, have a look at what the OEM BMW one looks like. The block and head pattern for those areas on the exhaust side seems to differ from the gasket, and if those pockets are used as cooling chambers to be filled with oil- I can see the head-gasket being "poorly" designed in that regard. If they are to be filled with coolant, I'd say they are even worse. The OEM BMW gasket is designed with a lot more attention paid to that area of the engine. anyways- forget all that. when we turboing this thing?
  12. Careless

    Thinking about installing an BMW M6 engine in my Z

    while that is physically true, the more important thing to keep in mind is the oiling priority of the engine. the technical service manual should have an arrow-drawn diagram in the engine lubrication or oil pump servicing chapter that shows what gets oil first... it's not the same for every v6 or i6 or v8, etc- even from the same manufacturer. they've all experimented a lot in the last 40 years. some dual overhead cam motors see oil at only one the cam first- before anything else, then it gets pumped down to the crank shaft, and then back up to the other camshaft. some see oil go through the entire crankshaft, and then fed up to both cams through the rear of the motor, and then oil is fed through the hollow cams, lifter guide plates/valve cases, or oiler bars- and any residual oil is then dumped into the timing cover. race-minded engine designs are typically crank-priority oiled. it's a safe bet. but I would check to be sure. I hope you replace the oil pump while you're in there. there is too much of that bearing in the pan for it to not have gone through the pump at least once (how many times it went through would depend on where the oil filter is in the priority oiling system as well)
  13. Careless

    Why is Address Required?

    well if we're going there, it's more like shrooms about 20 minutes before they reaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaally reel ya in. ever been camping and just stare at a large boulder for about 20 minutes right before lift off? shiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii
  14. Careless

    Wire terminal insulator colours

    I'm looking at the wiring harnesses I have here for 1969 and 1970, and for the life of me, I can't determine what the original colour of the transparent rubber/plastic terminal insulators are supposed to be. Some of the larger ones from, say, the interior where the parking brake switch is seem to be of a greenish hue, even when cleaned thoroughly. Yet a couple of others that are the same dimensions and for the same type of crimp terminal look more like an amber colour. Then there are some that are just so burnt from possibly engine bay heat or UV discoloration, that they are closer to brown- so I'm not sure if they were ever amber to begin with. For this car I'm most likely going to just use the clear ones as they are, but I was thinking of buying the insulators in bulk and dying some just to give the next harness that extra little touch. But since some people go for the black over the clear where necessary, I figured it's only fair that I poll the members to see what they know aboot it. Anybody have some solid info on these thingies?
  15. Careless

    1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build

    definitely looks like low gas output welds. perhaps you have some particulate and metal build up from previous welds stuck in the mig nozzle gas ports. you can tell there is some gas flow, because the surface of each weld "bulb" does not have cratering or pitting from being completely unshielded. If you had no gas whatsoever, it would look like burnt popcorn as zinc and rubber make their way to the surface and pop out of the molten metal. I wouldn't chalk it up to skill at all going by what I see. I've made similar welds on non structural items only to realize during cleanup time that the MIG cart's wheel was sitting on the gas hose. fun day, that was.
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