Matthew Abate

Made progress today... They forgot the sway-bar reinforcements, so they started that. Not pleased about the sequencing of this but they assured me it will be great in the end. 😕 I put the rear suspension in: I put the front suspension in: And it looks like a car again! No more spaceship z. Theres still a pile to do, including fixing some things they already sprayed, but it’s coming along. Panels and doors should be getting gapped shortly.

In other news, I went with undercoating on the floor, mostly to black it out when viewed from the side.

Question: is this an AC drain tube hole? The body shop and I are debating what to do about it. I’m thinking cut it to be nice for a rubber grommet but keep it since I plan to put a Restomod Air system in. Edit: I just got off the phone with Restomod Air. They recommended cutting it to fit a 5/8” rubber grommet so the 1/2” drain tube from their Vapor II system can run through there.

Things are happening today!

Thanks guys. CO, I’m adding that to the glossary. I think what was meant in the thread I referred to is that crank sensors give you accuracy (flywheel versions specifically) whereas the cam helps you understand which valve position for spark. “Accuracy”

Have you finished the fuel return line charge yet? I’m curious to see how that turned out, as I am considering several of the same mods you’re doing. I have seen people use 280z gas tanks to solve for this, but I’m thinking the vapor tank suggestion made earlier is a great one. Incidentally, I know the vapor smell getting into your house was a consideration for all of this. I’m thinking of using a II Much vapor canister in place of the OEM one in my ‘73. Something like that may help with options for getting that return to work.

Awesome! That’s what I like to hear. I don’t suppose you can put any numbers on it. Any chance you have a link to dyno charts for comparison? Regarding cam sensor, I had read somewhere (Duffy’s thread?) that the crank sensor doesn’t tell you which of the strokes you are on, so pairing the two gives you that plus accuracy. I’m paraphrasing big time here.

Thanks @Zed Head I’ll get those edits in. If everyone else could make recommendations on components or provide links to how-tos or instructions I would appreciate it. I’m starting to dig into Hybridz right now and plan to transpose what I find into the above post.

I am also in the beginning stages of doing this research and was planning to do some sort of write up on it. I just reached out to Wheee! and have been digging through Duffy’s thread to get started. I think this thread is as good a place to compile notes as any. This is what I have gathered, plus contributions by @Zed Head, @duffymahoney, @wheee!, and @madkaw (please suggest edits as appropriate): Benefits Better Performance? - Yes, in the form of hotter spark, less chance of misfire, more efficient combustion, and better emissions Better power? - Maybe. Full control of timing in any load situation is a far and above the compromise of a dizzy - however it might be recurved. Lower cost? - Not initially, but parts are easier to find that the original setup once a system is in place. Tunable? - Yes. Programmable ignition curves allow you to optimize for power and efficiency. Required Components Coils (6) Spark Plugs (6) Coil Bracket Camshaft Triggering Device / Position Sensor / Angle Sensor Crankshaft Triggering Device / Position Sensor / Angle Sensor Ignition Control Unit / Module Battery Wiring Harness Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor Tachometer Signal Converter Considerations Cost - Is the cost of the system worth the benefits for your car vs OEM parts or other options? Availability - Can you find replacement components to get your build finished and keep it working? Difficulty - Will you need to have help getting it installed, tuned, and keep it working? Appearance - Which of each component is right for your build style? Heat - How will heat be managed to ensure proper function and longevity? Positioning - How will you route the wiring through firewall and what mounting points will work for each component? Accessories - Will you be running AC, the headlight relay harness, non-original alternator, other hard-wired electronics, etc.? Glossary Smart Coils (from AEM Performance Electronics) “Smart” Inductive Coils are designed for use on applications that do not have an external igniter. Wasted Spark (from Wikipedia) In a wasted spark system, the spark plugs fire in pairs, with one plug in a cylinder on its compression stroke and the other plug in a cylinder on its exhaust stroke. The extra spark during the exhaust stroke has no effect and is thus "wasted". This design halves the number of components necessary in a typical ignition system, while the extra spark, against much reduced dielectric resistance, barely impacts the lifespan of modern ignition components. In a typical engine, it requires only about 2–3 kV to fire the cylinder on its exhaust stroke. The remaining coil energy is available to fire the spark plug in the cylinder on its compression stroke (typically about 8 to 12 kV). “If you're running a wasted spark system, you don't need cam sensor. Two pistons will be approaching TDC at the same time. Of the pair, one of the rising pistons is approaching TDC on it's compression stroke, and the other one is approaching TDC on it's exhaust stroke. A cam sensor would allow you to differentiate between those two, but if you're running a wasted spark system, you don't care... Just spark both of them at the same time. If you had a cam sensor, you could spark just the cylinder on it's compression stroke alone without "wasting" a spark on the other cylinder.” - Captain Obvious COMPONENTS: COILS ACDelco D585 Nissan R35 COMPONENTS: COIL BRACKETS Blake Machine Co. http://blakemachine.com/performance_parts_by_blake_machine/datsun_coil_on_plug_brackets_6__4_cylinder List of Options for Crank and Cam Position Sensors @ Hybrids -https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/126710-list-of-options-for-crank-and-cam-position-sensors/ COMPONENTS: CAMSHAFT ANGLE SENSOR Jeep 4.0 CAS in stock distributor location https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/125904-jeep-cam-angle-sensor-for-l-series/ 1998 Nissan Quest (PN: 22100-P8500) https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/58568-duffys-171-series-1-240z-build/?page=19&tab=comments#comment-582356 COMPONENTS: CRANKSHAFT ANGLE SENSOR 1982-83 280ZXT distributor with DIYautotune wheel XXX Austin Hoke Bolt-in-Kit http://hokeperformance.squarespace.com/l-series-crank-angle-sensor https://hokeperformance.squarespace.com/store/l-series-crank-angle-sensor-kit BJH Dynamics / Robello Racing XXX Damper-mounted universal or OEM trigger wheel XXX Flywheel Hall Sensor XXX Top End Performance Trigger Wheel fab Service XXX COMPONENTS: ECU Haltech: https://www.haltech.com/ Megajolt: https://www.autosportlabs.com/the-new-megajolte-mk2-is-here/ https://www.mgexp.com/article/mgb-edis-installation.html https://trigger-wheels.com/store/contents/en-uk/p72.html

Precisely, which is why I’m eyeballing the harada. one thing I’m wondering about these Mangoletsis is why all the extra casting? Is that a balance tube going between the inlets or just reinforcement. Here is the manufacturer’s site: http://www.mangoletsimanifolds.com/manifolds/datsun.html There sure is some big talk in the brochure!

I just stumbled upon a site offering Mangoletsi triple side-draft manifolds. I had never hear of them before. This thread Lists all of the ones I had ever seen mentioned and then some, and they don’t show up here either. There are only two mentions of Mangoletsi on this site, and nothing very informative. Any opinions? —- and while I have your attention, is there anything wrong with the Harada manifolds? They seem readily available and relatively low price.

Ran into a jam. I have a box for a left-side Moog outer tie rod end (ES2110r) that has a right-side TRE (ES2109r) in it. Trying to figure out if this is a packaging error or if they don’t make reverse-threaded ones anymore. The reason this is an issue NOW is if I can’t get a reverse-treaded OTRE then I can’t use the adjustable, properly-threaded ITREs that came on the car. In that case I will have to use the crimped-together ones I got from Nissan and will have a goofy time doing the alignment. Otherwise, it’s not an issue, because I have all of that stuff on hand. I just need an answer from Moog as to whether the box had the wrong part or they don’t do reverse threads on their left OTREs (in which case why have a different part number?).

Got about half way this evening. Had to stop because I don’t have a 38mm socket for the torque wrench. I’m maybe a tiny bit concerned I have the pinion one tooth off from pointing straight up at dead center, but I think it’s right.

Status: I’m waiting for zerk fittings to come in the mail. Then reassembly.

I don’t think they are damaged, but they don’t lay flat, which is what had me thinking I should replace them.