Matthew Abate

Update: So the dif is mostly done. It needs to be flushed again and I think the cover gasket is leaking, but since I bent the input flange shroud I’m putting this in storage until I’m in the mood to mess with it again. It needs to be sitting on the wheels to get that front lock but torqued to 195 nm, otherwise I’m only going to continue messing up my hard work (see 2nd to last image).

False alarm! I was able to find and download the FSM for the car this diff came from (2014 Subaru WRX STi). Here's the answer in case you were wondering… Apply liquid gasket to the bolts indicated by arrows, and tighten the side retainer bolt. Liquid gasket: THREE BOND 1110F (Part No. K0879Y0021), THREE BOND 1110B or equivalent Tightening torque: 10.5 N·m (1.1 kgf-m, 7.7 ft-lb)

I could use advice: The Subaru r180 diff I am cleaning up seams to have something like plumbers putty on the bolts that hold the side covers on where the axles enter the case. I’ve never seen this before. Is this to keep oil from leaking out from around those bolts? Does anyone know what this stuff is and if I can get it at an auto parts store? I’d like to do this as correctly as I can. Thanks.

I’m good there. If anything I’d like them to be a few millimeter longer, but it’s fine. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Yes, and it ended up only being seven of them that really needed it. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Oh trust me, I'll be taking off the minimum. I will be surprised if it's more than just the very top of the hole since the backs of the wheels were all fine.

Yep, Bruce nailed it. The .68” mag lugs I bought slip in perfectly from the other side, so it looks like a mix of compressed material in the front and poor measuring on my part. Most of them have zero resistance at all, so I’ll just file around the edges until it’s uniform. These are the lug nuts I got (washer not shown):

When digging through my garage for things to use as a sanding block on these wheels I found a pry bar that almost fits into the wheel hole and measures 17.42mm diameter. I measured the holes again on two wheels and got a range from 16.2 to 17.23, so I bought some domed mag nuts that have a .68” shank, which is 17.272mm, and I’ll open up the holes with a round file and cylinder hone bit until they fit. I’m just concerned about throwing of the PCD or otherwise compromising the geometry of the holes.. —- Now I just have to figure out how to turn the angled valve stem Costco installed sideways without taking it back, breaking it, etc. It never ends. —- Incidentally, I went with Michelin Defender T+H - 195/70R14 91H tires. Costco had them for $85 each after the promotion they’re running.

Yeah, I think I’m going to have to open up the lug holes on the wheels somehow. This is the closest thing. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Double post app glitch.

I can’t use the tapered lug nuts unless I machine my wheels. Stuck with mag lug nuts otherwise. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Thanks! Edit: I went through them and didn’t see anything with a narrow enough shank, but it’s totally possible that I miss-measured the hole diameter. The wheels are higher up in this thread. Shelby Cal 500s, 14x6.

So I have a conundrum. I’m not sure which lug nuts to get. These wheels have a hole diameter of about 16mm and the depth is about 22mm. I think I read that the lug bolts are 50mm long, but I’ve already dropped my suspension off at the painter and forgot to measure how much thread length I have before the nut bottoms out. Does anyone have a recommendation? I’ve been looking at these but I’m worried they aren’t deep or narrow enough: https://www.lugnutguys.com/product/factory-mag-chrome-cwa-5005t-16 The lack of 12x1.25 mag lug selection is a bummer.