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Matthew Abate

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About Matthew Abate

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  • Member ID: 30168

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  • Joined: 05/07/2015

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Matthew Abate last won the day on April 4 2020

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  • Map Location
    Maplewood, NJ
  • Occupation
    Digital Experience Design Senior Manager

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  • Zcars Owned
  • About my Cars
    Manufactured 7/73
    Currently being reassembled: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/51541-1973-rebuild/

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  1. Okay, this one is going to be a long one, so I will try to bust it up into pieces to keep the conversation organized, because the dash harness (or harnesses, as it turns out) was a doozy. In one way it wasn't as tricky as the engine, because it is the correct harness for the car this time, but it was trickier in another way in that there were few things I could identify before I disconnected them (being disconnected when I bought the car) and the ones with spade and bullet connectors are not in the FSM Body Electrical section, so I am juggling between several years of FSM, the diagrams I downloaded here, and lots of Google searches. For the purpose of clear communication I will refer to both of these harnesses as halves of the larger "dash harness." If I need to distinguish between them I will refer to the one with all of the lightbulbs as harness #2 and the other one as harness #1, since their part numbers are 24013-M3322 and 24013-M3321, respectively. --- @SteveJ, @zKars, @Zed Head, and everyone else, I am hoping to enlist your help in identifying at least some of the 13 things I couldn't figure out so I can fill in the blanks in the table. Hopefully some of you will know what these should be. Missing Wires: In capturing the wire mapping from the FSM, I found that my harness is missing a black wire with a yellow stripe from the blue connector, and a black wire from the green connector (not the heavier gauge wire that goes to the combination switch). After reviewing the FSM and the diagram, the only black and yellow wire running through the dashboard I see is the one from the ignition to the starter (via the inhibitor switch in automatic cars). I have accounted for that one and it is in a different connector. The black one could be anything, really. I don't have any black wires missing on the other ends that I can tell. Unidentified Connectors #1 & 2: There are several places there the two harnesses connect to each other via bullet connectors. I have figured out what all of the bullet connector are throughout the whole harness except for one on each half. One is a male bullet on the end of a 3-inch blue wire with a red stripe exiting Intermittent Relay plug. The other one is a female bullet also on a blue wire with a red stripe going to the fuse box. #3 (Harness 1): Next is a 3-pin connector with 3 wires (White w/ Black, White, Blue) on the branch that goes down the center console to the fuse box. The blue wire has a blue sleeve on it that may or may not be a repair from the previous owner. This one is right next to the connector for the antenna motor (left side of the photo above), so I thought this might be for the radio, but I have that one accounted for. There is no component on the wiring diagram with this combination of wire colors, as far as I can tell. #4 (Harness 1): This one might be power for the Air Conditioning, or it could be for the heater. There is a blue wire branching off the 30-amp fuse in the diagram for that. The trouble is, that fuse should have a red wire coming off it for the blower fan, but I am not seeing that in this mess. #5 (Harness 1): Another truly perplexing one is this 3-prong clip with two black and one green wire. This exits the center-console branch along with the ones above, but it's about a foot long. No idea what this is. it's missing in the FSM and the diagram, and I don't see a component with this color combination. #6 (Harness 1): There is a blue wire with a white stripe right next to the connectors for the fuse box. I think maybe this one is for the four-way flasher, but I am not certain. #7 (Harness 1): This 2-prong connector is down the console near the choke and seat belt lights. Wires are black with a white stripe and green. #8 (Harness 2): Again, on the branch going down to the fuse box, this time on the other half, there is a blue wire with a female bullet connector. Maybe this connects to the other stray blue with I thought was for the AC, or maybe this is for the heater. I have a feeling these two are for those two components, it's just a question of which is which. #9 & 10 (Harness 2): These last two are also on the fuse-box branch. One is a thicker white wire with a sheath and a female bullet connector (middle wire in the photo below), which should make it easy to identify, but I'm still confused. This one splices to the fat wire that goes from the engine harness to the Ammeter. The last thing I can't figure out is the 2-prong connector is the photo below. It is not in the FSM and I can't find a component in the diagram with this combination. Maybe it goes to the resistor, because I do have an unaccounted for black & white wire that I mentioned earlier on the other fuse-box branch, but they are both paired with other wires (green / red) that are not showing in the diagram for that component, so I don't think so. Anyway, that's what I have to figure out before I can wrap up this inventory. One thing all the Googling I've been doing is teaching me is there are a bunch of little harnesses I might be missing. I already know about the tail light, fuel pump, headlight, turn signal, and step light harnesses, but I just saw a center console harness I haven't seen before on eBay (may be for a 280z ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ ). After this one I'll do the fuel pump harnesses and research the others. Then I can move on to deciding which materials to buy to make the new one. Thanks in advance for any help.
  2. Thanks for the advice guys! I’ve been talking to Vintage Connections about their 240z kit, which they claim contains all the connectors I’ll need for the car. I think I am going to get it if it is accurate to my inventory. I’ll report on that later. For the 10-pin clips, I may reuse the one I have, but I’m going to see if I can figure out an alternative before I decide. @zKars I was going to try to reuse these, but after I stripped the wrapping off I found so many bad splices, burnt through wires, corrosion/oxidation, cut wires, and other issues I decided to rebuild from scratch. Plus, the engine harness isn’t even the right one, being for an automatic, and I have numerous components to add or remove. I honestly think it’s going to be less work to make fresh harnesses.
  3. I'm deep in the process of cataloging the dashboard harness and it's making me lean toward trying to use OEM connectors, rather than modernizing the harnesses with new technology (although I am open to hearing arguments against this). The one place I think this is going to be super challenging is with the big 10-pin connectors that come in blue, green, white, and black and join the individual harnesses together. Does anyone have an idea of whether or not these can be found new or NOS anywhere? I haven't seen them anywhere, whereas I have been able to find pretty much all of the other connectors used in these harnesses somewhere.
  4. Okay. Noted. I will include these details including the loop mod in the tach in my overall wiring plan. I’m not going to be able to test this stuff until I have it all in one place, unfortunately, but at least I have it all captured here for reference. Thanks guys!
  5. @Zed Head I guess I didn’t really come out and ask, but I was more wondering if the ohms rating of the coil I choose impacts the tach wiring modification you’re recommending in any way, taking into account I have the 4-wire tach.
  6. Thanks! I’ll take a look. The one I was leaning toward is the NGK 48776 which I’ve read is is rated at 0.93 ohms and falls in the range I mentioned. If I understand correctly, more ohms is less heat, right? So the 1.5 or 3 ohm could you suggested would still be safe for the ignition. —- Also, I was reading through the ZHome write up on making a 240 tach work with a ZX dizzy and he calls out the 3-wire vs 4-wire tachs, 3-wire being his preference for making this work. I have a 4-wire tach, so I’ll have to dig more.
  7. Back to the tach… I’m getting ready to choose a coil to go with the e12-80 ignition on the rebuilt distributor I just bought. @Zed Head posted an image from an 81 FSW that says the correct coil resistance is 0.84 - 1.02 ohms in another thread on coils for this ignition. I guess what I’m wondering is if this will impact what we were talking about with the 240z tach continuing to work with this ignition/coil combination, or if maybe it might present an issue. I don’t fully understand this stuff. I’m going to get a coil in this range either way because I want to match it to this ignition, it just impact other stuff down the road.
  8. See my post here for a table with all of the FS5W71B parts and where I sourced them:
  9. Thanks for the help everyone! I went ahead and made an updated version of EuroDat's spreadsheet with links to where I was able to source OEM Nissan parts so peope can copy the part numbers instead of transcribing them from the screenshot. I didn't get everything on the list, and some of them may not pan out (the ones from Amayama Japan / Part Souq, specifically) but I have a ton of this stuff on order. I'll let you know how it goes. FS5W71B Rebuild Parts List Fiche ID Nissan Part Nr. Replacement Description Nissan Amayama Japan Amazon Ebay Size QTY Notes Tranmission Gear 32203 * 32273-N4800 BEARING - Main Input Shaft Amayama Japan Amazon ID 30 x OD 72 x W 19mm 1 6306 NR C3 (with snap ring) 32276 * 32273-36900 BEARING - Main Input Shaft, Adapter Plate Amayama Japan Ebay ID 30 x OD 72 x W 19mm 1 6306 C3 32275 * 32203-14360 BEARING - Main Input Shaft, Extension Housing Courtesy Parts Amayama Japan Ebay ID 25 x OD 52 x W 15mm 1 6205 C3 32272 * 32272-36910 BEARING - Pilot, Input / Output Shafts Amayama Japan Ebay Needle 1 Same as BEARING - Reverse Idler Gear 32264R / M / U 32264-14601 BEARING - Needle, Main Shaft Gears Nissan World Amayama Japan Ebay 3 1st, 2nd, & 3rd 32604M * 32604-P0100 RING - Baulk, 1st, 2nd, 3rd, & 4th Gears Courtesy Parts Amayama Japan 4 32544 * 32604-E9801 32604-36N21 RING - Baulk, 5th Gear Amayama Japan 1 32241B 32354-E9803 NUT - Main Shaft, Left Hand Thread Amayama Japan 1 280ZX Close Ratio 5-Speed 32241B 32354-A7400 NUT - Main Shaft, Right Hand Thread 1 280Z Wide Ratio 5-Speed NLA 32241B 32354-E9804 NUT - Main Shaft, Right Hand Thread (Early 280zx) 1 Replaces 32354-E9800 & 32354-E9802 NLA Counter Gears 32219 * 32219-E9020 BEARING - Counter Shaft, Front Courtesy Parts Amayama Japan Amazon (CA) ID 22 x OD 56 x W 16mm 1 63 / 22 C3 32219M * 32203-E9800 BEARING - Counter Shaft, Adapter Amayama Japan Amazon ID 25 x OD 62 x W 17mm 1 6305 C3 32231 * 32319-N4870 BEARING - Counter Shaft, Rear Amayama Japan Part Souq ID 20 x OD 47 x W 14mm 1 6204 C3 32283 * 32272-36910 BEARING - Reverse Idler Gear Amayama Japan Ebay Needle 1 Same as BEARING - Pilot, Input / Output Shafts 32210A 32236-E9500 NUT - Counter Shaft, Right Hand Thread Nissan World Amayama Japan 1 Transmission Case 32112 * 32112-08U01 GASKET - Front Cover Courtesy Parts Amayama Japan 1 Replaces 32112-E9001 32137 * 32137-E9000 OIL GUTTER Courtesy Parts Amayama Japan 1 32113 * 32114-Y4000 SEAL - Front (NOK: AH1679G) Courtesy Parts Amayama Japan Amazon 30 / 45 x 8mm 1 32136 * 32136-U010A SEAL - Rear Extension (NOK: 400402N) Courtesy Parts Amayama Japan Amazon 35 / 50 x 11mm 1 Replaces 32114-20100 & 32114-E9000 - NISSAN-62 BUSHING - Rear Extension (Omega Machine & Tool P/N: 71411) ID 35mm 1 DON'T USE (SKU: 303066) Transmission Shift Control 32849C 32855-H1010 BUSHING - Control Pin Courtesy Parts Amayama Japan 2 32861 32861-N4200 BUSHING - Control Lever Courtesy Parts Amayama Japan 1 32862 32862-E9801 BOOT - Control Lever Courtesy Parts Amayama Japan 1 32850H 32858-U6702 SEAL - Striking Rod, Inner 14/20 4.2mm 1 32710N 32710-14600 SEAL (O-RING) - Striking Rod, Outer Courtesy Parts Amayama Japan 24 x 2.5mm 1 Same as Speedo O-Ring - NLA SEAL (O-RING) - Reverse Checking Assembly 22 x 2.5mm 1 32852 32852-24901 SPRING - Return Amayama Japan 1 32831N 32830-20100 SPRING - Checking Courtesy Parts Amayama Japan 3 Speedo 32703 32703-78101 PINION - Speedometer, 17T (Black) Nissan World Amayama Japan 3.54:1 Diff. 1 32703 32703-78102 PINION - Speedometer, 18T (White) Courtesy Parts Amayama Japan 3.70:1 Diff. 1 32710 32710-14600 SEAL (O-RING) - Speedometer Pinion Courtesy Parts Amayama Japan 24 x 2.5mm 1 Same as Striking Rod O-Ring 32709 32709-14600 SEAL - Speedometer Pinion Courtesy Parts Amayama Japan 10/16 x 4.2mm 1 * = Parts in Major Overhaul Kits Red = Parts No Longer Available Through Nissan O-Ring Sizes are Inner Diameter + Cross Section
  10. I had posted an ad for a mechanical fuel pump eccentric and it looks like both of the respondents were scammers. Anyone have one for an L-series engine they are willing to sell, or know a reliable source for one? I am referring to this one:
  11. I am having a FS5w71B transmission rebuilt and I am trying to provide the shop with a complete inventory of bearing and seal sizes before they open it up. Has anyone already done this? I have the part numbers for all of this stuff taken from the Car Parts Manual site, but that doesn't give me the ID/OD/Width info and weather or not any of them are sealed. I suppose I could just get a rebuild kit, but I wanted to have this on hand to ensure everything goes smoothly once they get to it. Does anyone have this info on hand? I've dug through the forum and can't find it.
  12. There's a new clear film that installs like traditional window tint that supposedly blocks 99% of UV rays and up to 43% of the heat coming through the glass. Also supposedly, it is legal to put it on the windshield because it is almost completely transparent. I'm going to be looking into this, and if it is in fact legal I may have a tint shop do all my glass with this stuff. It's also anti glare. Might replace your towel solution.
  13. The ZX stuff would seem like a good starting point, but new systems would be set up for r134. I’m foregoing anything that isn’t purpose built to handle r134 so that I can avoid leaks and to just make maintenance easier. I think step one for me is going to be trying to figure out the bolt pattern for the condenser. If anyone had one laying around and wants to help draw up a patter, let me know. If anyone has the one from Z Car Source and could write a review, that would also be helpful. From there maybe I can talk to Vintage Air and try to get them to tell me which one of theirs is closest. I might also be able to figure out a Nissan part that is close to that.
  14. @Captain Obvious, you mean you haven’t already done all my work for me?!?!?! Man! But in seriousness, I was intrigued by the original premise of your thread. I have been wondering if one could pull the compressor and condenser out of a newish Nissan and make them work. I am guessing they would be super efficient compared to some of the aftermarket options available. In addition to looking at the two condensers I mentioned earlier, I’ve been looking at OEM options from the last decade as well as things that have the drier built in. No luck so far but I might find something. I’ll probably opt for the Z Car bolt in one, though.
  15. Time Left: 2 months and 17 days

    • WANTED
    • USED

    I am looking for an eccentric to drive my mechanical fuel pump. I would prefer a new one specific to the L6 if I can get it. Otherwise a good used one would work. I will consider the one for the Z-series engines if I have to go that route.


    - US

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