Matthew Abate

Bummer. Maybe I’m just overtightening it. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Can anyone recommend an alternate gland nut to the ones that came with my illuminas? I’m not happy with how soft the metal is nor how thin the edge is where the wrench grabs. I’m seeing some rounding and I haven’t even tightened them that hard. The ones that were on the car before won’t work. They were mismatched and in terrible condition.

Great! Thanks. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Does anyone know the size of the lock nuts for the ends of the spindle pins? I want to get some that aren’t locking to temporarily hold everything together, which I would replace with the locking nuts later. I had been looking at these 12mm 1.25 pitch ones but I’m not sure that’s the right size: https://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Details.aspx?product=6878

Back on track thanks to Captain Obvious and his buddy Gary. Thanks Bruce! —- We identified the problem(s). They had pressed the inner bearing in at an angle and then forced it down. This did some gnarly but repairable damage to the inside of the hub and is why the bearing was uneven and destroyed. They also screwed up my spindle pins and all the hardware that went with them. I have new hardware on the way. The spacers Jim K sent me were perfect and went right in. Everything is now back together (minus the drum brake backing plates) and ready to continue, but first I’m cleaning up my paint.

Looks great! Did you trial fit the header? I’m trying to find out whether the Fujitsubo one has the same fit issue around the steering as the Spirit Garage header and don’t see it in this thread. Or is the header unchanged?

Side comment: I was thinking about the issue with the header interfering with the steering and was wondering if anyone has investigated using the Trust GReddy TR NA Ex Header with one of these exhausts. Supposedly it is bolt on with no mods needed on LHD cars. Whitehead Performance offers it for $648 and recommends the Fujitsubo exhaust for it. I’ve seen people mention pairing with with the Spirit Garage exhaust, but I don’t think I’ve seen anyone actually post pictures of this set up or write up a review. You can also get it from Revmatch for $623. If I had to pull the trigger on an exhaust setup right this second without a chance to do any more research, it would be this header paired with a Spirit exhaust, just based on forum comments (bolt on, fits around diff, tucks high, looks period correct, well regarded manufacturers, sounds good, not insanely expensive). I just wish Trust made it in stainless. I am digging deeper on the full Spirit Garage system, though. If the handful of fitment things mentioned aren’t too onerous and I can find it for less than RHD wants maybe that’s a better choice. Again, it would be cool if someone who understands this and can be objective put together a sticky post doing a compare and contrast with links and dyno charts off the same car.

None taken because that’s the plan, and also it was a shop that messed up.

Yeah, when everything was together it was shy of coming all the way through, so the flange was putting lateral load on the inner bearings when torqued. The shop wanted the spacer shorter to get the bearings closer together. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Yet another example of where I only half followed my father’s advice. I went with the lowest imperial measurement but did not check it against the lowest metric measurement. (Edit: no need, they are the same when converted). I think my plan now is the freeze the spindle and warm the outer bearing to 120 degrees, press it on myself with my floor jack hacked together home made hydraulic press, then freeze the inner and do the same. Taking these parts to shops is only giving me grief. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I’d love to see someone compile all of this info into a sticky... hint hint. Also, Sean, you said you had a theory on the benefits of twin pipes a few pages ago. Let’s hear it. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Yes, I agree. And yes, zKars saved my arse again. The last question I need to answer out of this mess is did torquing the nut to 181 pounds like the FSM says crush my brand new OEM bearings or was it the idiot who ground my spacer? The shop insists the Chilton manual is correct at 28-32 pounds and pointed to the F-350 spec of 110 pounds as a supporting argument, but they also ground down a NLA part by hand, so... Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

They are type B spacers. You can see the amount of material removed here:

NLA. They just haven’t updated their site.

Update: all parts retrieved. I will asses them tonight and post a picture of the damage to the spacer. The hubs say B but I haven’t checked to see if the spacers match. Regardless I have one that is messed up. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile