Topics Last Week

some new updates on my ignition woes and HEI module upgrade. Tested resistances on anything I currently have knowledge of. Near as I can tell, everything is as it should be. I tested both coils that I have using the method listed in the video below. I'm a sucker for detailed documentation and I had a hard time following some of the posts I found. So hopefully this will help others. The initial test was to test the resistance of the tester itself and it turns out mine needs a little recalibration. Not a huge deal as I understand that I just need to subtract the value from the readings that I take. It turns out that I am off by 1.6 ohms. It is a 30 year old meter though that I inherited from my dad. The readings on the new coil. 3.1 ohm (1.5ohm corrected) between the + and - terminals and 11,280 ohms between the positive and center. I purchased this (amazon) coil. It is suppose to be a stock replacement. Pretty similar readings on the old coil. I kinda figured the old was was good, but meh, why not replace it just in case. 2.2 ohm (.6 ohm corrected) between the + and - terminals and 14,450 ohms between the positive and center. Also tested resistance on the pickup coil in the distributor and it reads about 675 ohms. According to this post by Zedhead it should read around 720ohms. I feel like this reading is acceptable. I checked the voltage to the positive side of the coil with the ignition on (white w/ black stripe) as well as suggested by Fastwoman in this post. As well as the battery itself which is new but i have to get a charger on it. The voltages with the ignition on and off were practically identical. With that aside, im now looking into the wiring for the new HEI module. There are tons of articles on this, but it seemed hard for me to find the info I needed, which was wiring the module. Nearly all the posts had the basics, but there was a lot of discussion about using/not using the block resistor and/or a different coil. Couple that with the myriad of wiring diagrams I ran into. It was hard to determine what was proper. At the moment I am attempting to use a stock coil with a HEI module. Here are just a few of the discussions I looked at. GM HEI Module Install by Scanf Fitting a HEI Module in a Transistor Ignition Unit 1977 280z This was the most promising diagram I could find as listed in the second link. My confusion seems to be around what I have vs what is shown here. This diagram is also identical to what I have in the FSM One issue I have with the FSM is that the wire colors don't match. But I am also not 100% this is the original wire loom yet. or maybe Im just not smart enough to decern what the wire color short hand is. Could it be possible that my condenser is on the wrong terminal. Im hesitant to just start moving and trying different wire combinations without some confidence that what I am doing is correct with the fear of making matters worse. Below is what I tried for the ignition module wiring last week. As I am writing this post I just noticed that I have the positive and negative wires backwards. If I am not mistaken, I still should be able to get some kind of spark out of it. There is another issue I'm concerned with. See more below. So now I know that the coil wires are backwards. but my other concern is weather or not I need to run the wires through the block resistor. I feel like by writing this post and working through my explanation, I should be. Instead of wiring the new module directly to the coil as shown in the following diagram that is listed in first link. (also happens to be the same post listed in the knowledge base). I should be unmodifying the existing wiring and attaching the leads to the corresponding terminals on the block resistor as shown below. Assuming I am correct, Now the only unresolved issue is where the condenser is suppose to be. According to the FSM its suppose to be connected to the center terminal? How is my logic so far?

I purchased a seat foam kit for my 1972 240z awhile back and find it to be too stiff. Has anyone trimmed the foam to make it more comfortable and plush. I was thinking of taking about removing about 1 in from the seating area so that you will sit down in the seat more. What techniques have been used to trim this foam.

Here's a good read on what you're doing. You might read something helpful.

Is that Rick Springfield's brother?

Well done! Congratulations from another OO.🎉

Thanks Captain! This is more the info I was looking for. I guess I will be able to verify once my assortment of plugs arrive from Mcmaster.

👍

Do you have any more info for this? Where did you see it?

I offer two different versions of my conversion bell housings to do the reverse tilt. One for the CD009 and one for the TL70. Most of the people that buy my head end up tilting them so I offer the bell housings to assist in that.

Did you read my post?

It will be interesting to see how the BaT S30.world/Garage 44 auction goes when it is (eventually) listed. Im guessing the 240-Z has been shipped to the USA to sell rather than be passed in.

Cannon Manifold and three 40 DCOE 151 (spanish pedigree) weber 151s. I have had these apart and cleaned them but they still need to be gone through and verified. I had them on my Z car running since 2012. Pulled them off and need the space in my garage. Comes with oversized rod ends, and throttle arm mounting bar (less deflection), which is a modification of my own. Carbs are complete. I am pretty sure I have the air horns that came with them. I can ship to anywhere in the CONTIENTAL US, but shipping will be on the purchaser. I will box them up in a protected WEBER carb box individually. For the manifold and carbs I am asking 800 dollars plus shipping. Please give me an email at sdamico555@Gmail.com

They have a 15mm square socket available on Amazon. Works like a champ with a 1/2” pull bar. I chose the Harfington model. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=15mm+socket

@cgsheen1 I was going to post in another thread but didn't want to thread jack, I'm hopeful to make it to Zcon in your area next year and check out your cars

👍

Yes you're correct. However, will a customer accept an exhaust manifold that will start to show corrosion almost the minute he leaves my shop after spending X amount of $ for a Y operation? Asking rhetorically as the answer is obvious. Everyone and I mean EVERYONE was very happy with the Jet-Hot cast look including, but not limited to, the Franklin Mint car.

Zzzzzzzzzz…..

Not that weren’t expecting

I know most people on this forum want as much stock and original parts as possible but, at least it’s my opinion, maybe some modern upgrades / mods are in order to keep these cars on the road. Aside from all the aftermarket suspension upgrades I know that Apex Engineered also sells new steering racks (with right hand inner tie rods) and just the right hand thread inner tie rods. Replacing just the inner tie rod(s) for right hand thread once might be a good solution for the NLA drivers side outer tie rod. And yes Apex does sell them separately and in pairs. https://apexengineered.com/shop/s30-240z-260z-280z/inner-tie-rod/ No I’m not sponsored I just like what they’re doing and ordered some stuff to fix my 280z.

Been a while since showing 2446 bones…and she got good bones. Slowly finding time and discipline to prioritize some shop time. It is fun putting a few peices on the rear, dash will be coming out to recover. Had been a while since I have inverted to disconnect heater control cables….throttle lever cable at top of the gas pedal assembly…etc. rear panel is too dark, debating to reshoot to lighter shade….

I did the yellow/blue wire grounding test. I had both the Floor Temp and Fuel warning lights on. I guess I have an independent to the fuel sender's thermistor issue with the Floor Temp sensor. I will check the relay under the pass seat.

I dont believe the 510 has a rheostat

I am near Canada:)

$840 (plus shipping) at Motorsport Auto.