Topics Last Week

You could buy a cigarette lighter USB adapter like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C9DLDN19 It has a built in voltmeter. If you see it dropping below 13VDC while driving, you have a good clue that the alternator isn't putting out current or your battery is going bad.

Thanks for everyone's input! I definitely will be using a respirator for all the body work. Melting back the filler seems like the way to go. I can hopefully get a better idea as to how it should all go back together and what metal needs to be welded in. More water must have pooled up on this side as the driver side is clean.

While Im waiting on that fuel pump relay to arrive, I decided to mess with the brakes. They were definitely worn but seems like they are still usable. The parking brake was the only thing that worked. All of the bleeder valves loosened easily, so I decided to put some fluid in and see what happens. The system had just a little bit of fluid in the lines. I started with the back right and something seems clogged, I can get some of the old fluid out, probably due to gravity, but Im not getting any new fluid, so I decided to pop open the other side as well and all is good over there. I dont see any leaks so far, so thats good, but thats about as far as I got today. I should be getting the relay here in the next couple days, so we will see how that plays out.

I'm happy I could gift you a copy of this manual, for all the effort you put into the whole Event. If you have the missing pages, you can maybe email them to me and I can try to complete the book with the missing pages for you and me. That would be great. Or to just have them digitally would be nice too. Thank you for your support too and for all the good memories made in Japan :-)

Recently a guy on FB posted he had bought a bunch of Datsun tools and tool boards. He has them all cleaned up and mounted on the garage wall. Makes a nice display. I have the Special tools manual from 9/69 and a couple of mechanic seat covers that I really have never seen before. Do any of you have any info on the seat covers?

From the looks of it, it will break $46k but I doubt they will recoup the investment

Poppin' back in for a bit, although @conedodger and @Yarb see me quite a bit in The Rusted Zed Pub section. 😎 🍻 It's been a few years since I've spoken with Gary Moisant but I'm pretty sure he's still around up in Oregon. Can't get him away from the race cars! The last time I spoke with Keith @2ManyZs (many, many years ago) he was having some health issues. I reached out once by email a few years ago but never heard back. Edit: I reached out again to Keith yesterday and he is still around, still has his Z but it is still unfinished. So, I popped back in here because I ran across something the other day that made me think of this thread. I saw my old Z for sale on Marketplace!!! She's about an hour's drive away and actually less than a mile from my mother-in-law's place! Paint still looks good (which I'm pretty proud of!) but that four-letter "R" word has started coming back with a vengeance! The guy who is currently selling, bought her not too long ago from the guy I sold her to. I stopped by yesterday on my way home from Austin, TX to see her, talk to her, and wish her well in the next part of her life. Still has good bones, but the level of repair is far more than I'm willing to tackle at this age and stage of my life. It was cool to see her again and I can't say I didn't shed a tear or two... We did go down the roadster route for a few years but not anything from Datsun. We did the Miata thing. Cool, fun little car that was a blast to drive. Helped that it was already set up for autocross which made street driving an absolute blast! Top down every single drive, even if we got caught in the rain (as long as you stay moving...)! But alas, as the wife and I both start looking toward retirement all of the toys have been traded up for a large center console boat for fishing down on the TX Coast! Grandkids are on the way and life's focus has just changed. The Z will always be a part of my life and I will die loving the sleek lines of the S30s, but I don't think there will ever be another one in our garage. Add it to the list of cars that "We should have never sold!" 😉 Y'all keep the rubber down and the RPMs up!

The pits!

Probably need to put some thought into replacing the short lines. You need to do an evaluation of what condition of the parts you’re working with.

I was describing its function, not the actual material wire. The trigger wire for the new tach is its own independent circuit. I was also trying to tease out if you're replacing the stock tach or adding another tach. Are you sticking the new tach in the hole where the old one is? Your other basic question might be "how do I keep my ignition system functioning if I remove my factory tach?". Since they are tied together in the 240Z's. Just breaking the "how do I connect my new tach?" question in to its elements. Seems like you're on top of it. Good luck.

What changes did he make to get all the plugs firing evenly?

https://www.amazon.com/Zig-furniture-upholstery-tempered-sinuous/dp/B01FE3PSZE

I got the rotary replacement kit from the Z Store (ZStore.com) but not sure if they still have the kits.

Ah yes. The "right setup" would include proper harnessing (no cutting or splicing), relays to isolate the power, adequate drivers for the blubs, no flicker, and adequate cooling. Also my opinion of the right setup would make it look period-correct for the car. Overall, I believe the only real reason to consider LED is to provide more powerful light output for driving. There's no real power savings needed on a gas powered car unless maybe to support a lower rated alternator. In my case, I don't really need LED unless I just want to go down that path for fun. I also considered LED's for my Land Cruiser, because the light output is pretty weak. However, I also decided against it because I couldn't find many options that met my requirement above.

Also, Japanese market variants had the option of factory stereo from beginning of production, so there are speaker holes in both sides of the interior quarter panel trims and the sheetmetal underneath them was designed to accept speaker mounts on both sides.

Never seen the last type. Suspect it is a retro fit that someone did from some other car. The first one is 240, second is 280, though can’t nail down the change over date. Could be as early as the north american 260 in 74. The fiche might provide the date info

Contact Oliver at Zspecialties to see if he has any. https://zspecialties.com/ I suggest calling him at the number at that website. Over at zcar.com, his user name is zmanofwashington.

1977 280z AFM from an EFI engine. Car had been sitting, everything looks in working order. asking $150 obo. located in Gilbert AZ

I worked on the heat shield/ cable bracket some more today. Here is the current pattern An earlier template on a piece of coil metal I glued it to piece of 16ga I had laying around A little cutting We will have to clearance it around some of the header pipes. Since it's an equal length header, they intrude on the carb area more than some We will use some stainless exhaust tube to deal with the clearanced areas. Once I finalize a design I will have sendcutsend fabricate it for me

I also got the tool covers from resurrected classics and got them installed A little nerve racking to bend the plastic hinges to mount them

Planning to swap an R200 into my Series 1 car (12/70 build date) and am looking for the mustache bar, front diff mount and insulator and the rear transverse link mount from a later 280Z that came with the R200.

Sent PM

Awe man this is a trap!

S30 parts are rare and expensive. Not enough competition or volume of sales to keep the price down.

This is the other name and email used during the email communications with Sully. Phaedra Rosengarth armychick44@hotmail.com He sent several pictures of the new tank and a few pictures of a partially restored tank that he allegedly was working on.