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Found 21 results

  1. So I decided to fab up some new front rails for the Z.. What is the worst that can happen, right? (Answer: waste some time, buy a proper set from a vendor). So why not? Step 1 ? Step 2 - Pretty much committed now .... Step 3 - make a pattern and a cheap test piece from some leftover 20 ga Step 4 - game time ...18 ga Step 5 - bend them up.... This was way harder than it looks. My cheapo metal brake was at capacity, and several teeth had to be removed, inserted and realigned in order to make all the bends. But
  2. I am roughly 6 months (estimated) away from putting the car in the shop for body work. In the meantime, I am stripping the car and enjoying it after getting it running right and in a reliable state. The car had a vinyl top which I removed hastily a year ago causing a majority of the adhesive to bake onto roof. I recently removed the vinyl from the hatch lid which left me in awe at the original paint. Neither here nor there... Real reason for the post - Is it worth putting some sort of rust inhibitor on the roof and affected areas between now and until it goes into the body
  3. Fellow Zedheads, I'm repairing my doglegs and want to fabricate the INNER dog leg as close to original as possible. I can't find an image of a non-rusted inner dogleg. (There are plenty of pics of rusted ones!). Can anyone help? I've attached pics of mine for reference. The piece I'm referring to is in front - with the jagged, rusty bottom. Thanks!! jughead
  4. This should generate some lively discussion... Most of us have tried a variety of rust-prevention products. If you're like me, you've found that some don't quite live up to expectations. Many swear by a particular product, but I often wonder if their allegiance is tied to subconsciously defending the choice they made. There are lot of manufacturer's claims published and a lot of one-use testimonials, but not much in the way solid comparative date to back them up. Back in 2011, 'Classics Monthly' -- one of England's leading auto restoration publications -- began a test of a group o
  5. I'm digging further and finding that I will need to replace the floor pans or at least most of it. It looks like the rust problem was caused by the fact that water got up from the bottom and then underneath that rubbery coating. That coating kinda looks like a heavy duty roofing membrane. You can see pieces of it ripped up in the photo. I suppose that this stuff was put in at the factory since its painted 918. Was this put in to be a noise dampener/insulation? Odd that there are drain holes that actually served as a way for water to get up under that coating.
  6. I just bought some 280z struts that I am gonna use for a coilover conversion because I cut mine too short. I plan to clean up the rest of the assembly later, but I need to know what to do with the brakes. They have new wheel bearings/studs but the rotors are pretty rusted up since they have been sitting for a while. So I'm wondering, what is easier? Clean up rust on rotors and use new struts Swap existing "clean" rotors onto new struts If I clean off the rust, how thorough do I need to be? Is it a "shop should resurface these" thing or can I just use a wire brush
  7. Hi guys/gals, I have had a few people on various posts here and on reddit asking for a full build thread, so I am going to try to make that happen. This will be a documentation of the restoration and modification of my 1972 240Z. This project really started a year ago, so I will give a quick background. After that I will try to post regularly; it may take a week or two to get this thread up to date with the work I have done so far, but it is what it is. Some things will be out of order as I find time. If you want to follow real time then follow me on instagram if you like (d_stratton).
  8. Hey everybody. Im looking for an early 70s 240z. I cant find any in my area. I want one that needs work so I can put it back together the way I want to. Does anyone have a Z like this or one that is so rusted you just want to junk it. Preferably I want it to be under 300 bucks. A guy can dream.
  9. My 1978 280Z has severe rust on rockers and underneath. No rust in trunk or engine compartment. Car runs great. Can/Should it be fixed or do I part it out?
  10. Hi guys, Im having some trouble deciding what to do with this situation. The pictures I have attached are of the inside of the A pillars LH and RH side. As you can see not much rust there Only minor surface rust, but this area is not easy to reach, so im down to two options: 1. Use light and penetrating oil as rust inhibitor with long slim hose - possible to clean the outside up if it runs. 2. Use the long slim hose with a spraypaint - not sure of how that would end up? I worry that the paint way will r
  11. So, one bit at a time my 1970 Z is finding its way back to respectability. Hope to have her back on the road in April. Some progress pics..... Front and rear spoilers are GONE, holes patched and sanded. Body sanded down and excessive bondo repairs replaced with mesh supported fiberglass. Hubcaps coming along (yes, I know they're the wrong ones for a 1970, but I like them). She's running solidly now, and the interior is about 80%. Tail light on the left has been polished and restored, one on right is as they came to me.
  12. Hi everyone, I've been looking for a Z in all California for several weeks already and finally bought one. It's not perfect but it was Christmas and I got seduced by that light blue metallic color. Biggest problem, and the biggest of all Zs in general, RUST! I've been talking to my local Z garage and read a ton of documentaion and I'm well aware of the effect of rust on Zs. The owner of the garage and a a couple threads on that forum were listing values of rust-free Zs sometimes well below the bar of 5000$ but after looking methodically in all the US for such cars I couldn't find any even clos
  13. I'll show you what I'm dealing with on my 280z, and perhaps get some advice! What is the "interior of the fuel door" called? The metal where the fuel filler neck is mounted. Is a replacement part for this made? I believe this is a pretty common rust area, due to spilled gas? Has anyone done this repair before? Any good guides? I'm in Seattle, if anyone has a recommendation for a good shop.
  14. I don't know what it's called, but the area behind where my fenders attach to the inside of the engine bay had some issues with rust. By issues I mean I took off the fender to do some preventative POR and found that there were holes straight through the metal. I'm grinding the rust off now with some wire brushes, but I'm not sure what I'm going to do about the repair. I figure I have a couple of options: I could cut out the old stuff (the leftover holy metal) weld some sheet metal together and try a (probably ghetto, but hidden) replacement. I'd probably leave a hole in it for water to get ou
  15. Hey guys, I've recently sanded and treated some minor rust underneath the cowl in the plenum area where the wiper motor etc. goes and i remember a while back seeing a Custom Z that had a solid cowl (e.g no air induction holes) and i was wondering since this area is prone to rust if it would be a good idea to fill in the holes of my cowl (at least on the driver side and leave the passenger side as is for the heater air intake.) Would this cause the wiper motor to overheat? I'm trying to figure out why the holes are there other than to gather leaves and wet slush.(even though I've treated with P
  16. Hello All, Been active on the forum for just a little while now... bought a '73 240z down in San Diego a couple months ago to learn on and fix up. I've fixed a couple things on it, mostly electronic in nature, I removed the side and rear skirts this past week, and I'll soon be upgrading the nonworking windshield wipers to Accord wipers. Next I need to buy a rear bumper, either metal or fiberglass/plastic... i don't know yet which. I'm leaning plastic, and I'll paint it matte black. But I digress. My big problem to deal with in the near future is the rust on the car. Right now, the car has thre
  17. Hey there, I'm a young guy with a datsun 280z in my garage, have done tons of work, including frame rails from the firewall foreward, along with alot of bodywork and much more, I built up a 305 to drop in, anyway, wanted some input on the engine mounts/rear end work needed, along with brake ideas, and suspension!!! Oh yeah should i buy the floor pan kit, or just bang out some sheet metal and patch in the rust wholes in my floor? anyway, money is limited, but i have about 5 grand i want to put into it over the next couple years.. its very much a side project but i want it to get on the front bu
  18. my body shop is stripping the rear of the car, and they've found what they say is irreparable rust over the wheel arch. i've seen this area rust in other cars, and i'd like to know if the rust in this area is usually just confined to the skin, or will it be likely to have bled onto the wheel housing? would it be better to just buy a rear wheel arch replacement panel, a la black dragon, or try to find a donor car? does anyone else sell a better replacement panel than BDA? i've heard tepid reviews of their body panels. which years will match my 76 when it comes to the quarter panels? i'll be upl
  19. Hey all, Here is my 1971 240z it is a series 1 with a build date of November 1970 has the vented rear hatch, emblems, ash tray, etc that go along with a series one. This was the first Z car that I purchased and I learnt a lot from the minor things I did on it. Unfortunately it did not turn out to be the dream car I hoped it would be, sadly all too often the story for many a new Z owner. After suspicions from looking over and working on the car I had it checked out by a local Z shop some of you might know Z Car Garage, San Jose, CA. It turns out there is a twist in the chassis from what appears
  20. My dad thinks i should cut a piece of steel and rivet it over the affected area after putting a rust converter on the rust. That sounds pretty easy to me, but i wanted to make sure that's my best option before i start drilling holes. See the attached picture. The passengers side is not quite as bad; the rust doesn't go past where the headlight sits.
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