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70z4fun

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About 70z4fun

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  • Map Location
    Sunriver, Oregon
  • Occupation
    The Career of Evil..... Astronomy

My Cars

  • About my Cars
    1970 240z HLS3018410 ( since 1979)
    1971 Fiat 850 Spyder ( since 1980)
    1982 Fiat X1/9 ( since 2003- Sold in 2008
    1989 Ferrari 328GTS ( since 9/08)
    A couple of Jeeps.....

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  1. Thanks for the feedback, Interesting thought. I didn't think about the fuel tank since the fuel filter looks clean and it has fuel in it. But I am not in the engine compartment when it happens 😉 Is there a way to look inside the tank without removing it and see anything useful? I also was not aware there was a screen at the tank end. I have never yanked the tank since I have it, but alway "think" I am in good shape since I use ethanol free fuel. I would think if I am going to pull the tank, I should plan on doing the sender and hoses. I did do the evaporation hoses many years ago.
  2. Greetings all, So, a quick overview. I have a series one 240z, which is basically stock. It does have a updated coil, but still runs points and stock fuel pump. I have had this car for over 40 years, and it has been reliable over the years. I don't drive it as much as I should, but over the last few years, it has had the periodic power loss, then dies. It "feels" electrical, or like when half a bank of cylinders goes out on a newer car, just losses power then it just dies. I can restart it after a few minutes, but have had no luck fixing the issue. When it first happened, I changed the points & plugs, then it happened again, and I replaced the condenser. Ran fine for the next few hundred miles, then acted up again. Checked the carbs, switched the coil. Ran fine again for awhile, then it happened again. Changed the fuel filter and pump, Filter looks clean and always use ethanol free fuel. Well that was it's own episode, after 40 miles, it died, and was not pumping fuel ( bad fuel pump) and replaced it with the old one, and it started back up, ran fine for another few hundred miles, then on my way to work yesterday, it did it again. Got it started, got to work. Ran fine going home. So, looking for solution. I am thinking I should rebuild the carbs, maybe it's the spark plug wires? Maybe the fuel pump? Just guessing at this point. I can't make it happen on demand, and it does not do it when I get it started. I thought maybe it is starving for gas, but it always restarts. So, looking for some other suggestions that I am not thinking about. Car runs great when it's running, so not sure what would cause it the loss of power. IF it was a newer car, I would think computer issues...... but it's a 1970 240z........... Any thoughts are greatly appreciated. Enjoy
  3. So, I got a new Delphi mechanical fuel pump, and finally installed it. Drove about 20 miles, and the car died. Checked every thing, and found that there was no fuel. I put the old fuel pump in, which has been in the car for years, and the car started up after the carbs got fuel. Checked the pump, and it looks identical to the GMB fuel pump, and the Delphi looks identical except for the Delphi written on it. I checked to see if there was any suction after removing it, and there was none. Just a heads up, kinda of a bummer........
  4. Just curious to what drivability issues come along with a failing fuel pump? The mechanical fuel pumps have been around for a long time, and I know some leak oil. But what type of problems creep in with a bad fuel pump when driving? Thanks Bob
  5. I think we have two of their pumps here, but they are new, I assume that is no use to them or you?
  6. Ok, I have a front suspension from a donor car that I have had for over 20 years. Taking it apart, and I noticed the rotors are original. Should I keep these old rusted rotors for any reason? I know there are a ton of aftermarket rotors, but does Nissan even sell them anymore? Would the original rotors make any difference to someone restoring to original? Hate to just recycle them if they have some use ...... Any thoughts
  7. Howdy, I was playing with cleaning up my steering wheel, and when I removed it, I noticed that there was no screws going from the horn insulator to the steering wheel. There was a spring under the insulator, and the horn works, so I am wondering if the two screws are needed? I assume it is correct that the spring goes under the insulator then the washer and then the nut? i IF I need to replace those screws, what is the size? I looked at the reproduction part that motorsport has, it has the two screws, spring and insulator. If you screw the insulator to the wheel, does it still have spring feel to it? Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks Bob
  8. Ok, Got one of those Diablo blades for the sawzal, and it was off in 10 minutes. I spent way to much time hammering and soaking..... Thanks for the advice. Now I can proceed.......
  9. So, I am doing my struts on my 240z. and noticed different part numbers on the strut towers of the two different cars I have here. Was there a different strut tower used in the 240z line? I know the ball joints are different on the early cars. Is there a reference of what the part numbers are for the strut towers? I have two different numbers for the passenger side 54302-E4151 54302-E4150, Is it just a superseded number? Thanks Bob
  10. So, doing my struts on my series 1 car, and figured I would replace the lower control arm bushings, ball joints, etc....... Everything seem to be going well until I tried to take off the passenger side control arm bolt. The nut came right off, but the bolt is seized to the inner part of the bushing. I have pounded on it with the nut on it, soaked it, air impact wrench forward and backward, for the past couple of days. Thinking I might need to get the sawmill out..... Any other suggestions? I have replacement bolts, not sure I want to use a torch on it. I can move the control arm up and down, and the head of the bolt moves with the control arm. Anyone else had this problem? Any advice is appreciated
  11. I did get new seals and put it into my old pinion. My understanding is the same pinion works on all 240, 260. 280 and 280zx?
  12. Bingo, It is offset the wrong way to the "key" Nissan part #32702-58S17 Drove myself crazy with this one..........
  13. Cool, I will take a look. I thought the cutout was up where the lock plate engages. That would make sense. Started to think I have the wrong pinion, but it looked identical to the one I took out.... Thanks Bob
  14. Ok, so I thought this was going to be a easy repair, but now I think I am missing something..... I have a Series 1 240z, with a ZX Five speed, and a L28. The car had been leaving a huge oil stain on the middle right side where ever it was parked. So , I put some cardboard under it, and it looked like it was leaking from the tranny and the pinion, and dripping down the speedo cable..... I got a new pinion from Nissan, checked to make sure it had o rings, which it did, stuck it in, refilled the tranny oil with Redline, and went for a drive..... NO Speedometer? I took the cable off the speedometer, and went for a drive, it did not spin. Stuck the old pinion on the end of the cable at the tranny and spun it, and my girl friend watched it spin. Looks like the cable is good. What am I doing wrong? Could the gear inside the transmission break? I am able to turn the pinion when installed in transmission.... Did I over tighten the cable? Not get the cable installed correctly at the transmission? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks
  15. Howdy, Looking at redoing some of the front end of my '70 240z. A few questions have come up. Should I replace the bushing in the lower control arm? A 49yr old car, it seems like a smart idea. Should I use the stock one, or use a urethane version? Advantage or disadvantage? Also, what is the the difference in the steering knuckle between an early 240 and later 240? I have seen a different ball joint offered, but not sure how to tell the difference between the two? Thanks Bob
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