Jump to content

70z4fun

Members
  • Posts

    109
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About 70z4fun


  • User Group: Members


  • Member ID: 2474


  • Title: Registered User


  • Content Count: 109


  • Content Post Ratio: 0.02


  • Reputation: 4


  • Achievement Points: 973


  • Member Of The Days Won: 0


  • Joined: 12/16/2002


  • Been With Us For: 7227 Days


  • Last Activity:


  • Currently:


Clubs

2 Followers

Contact

  • Map Location
    Sunriver, Oregon
  • Occupation
    The Career of Evil..... Astronomy

My Cars

  • About my Cars
    1970 240z HLS3018410 ( since 1979)
    1971 Fiat 850 Spyder ( since 1980)
    1982 Fiat X1/9 ( since 2003- Sold in 2008
    1989 Ferrari 328GTS ( since 9/08)
    A couple of Jeeps.....

Social Sites

  • Website
    http://

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

70z4fun's Achievements

CollaborZator

CollaborZator (7/14)

  • Dedicated Rare
  • Conversation Starter
  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Week One Done

Recent Badges

4

Reputation

  1. Feels more like a misfire, which brings on the loss in power.......
  2. Greetings all, I have a series one 240z with a L28 with 240z head and carbs. I did install the Petronix Series II electronic ignition. It seems to want to stop power past 5K and I get an occasional exhaust backfire. I am thinking I need to recheck the timing,, as I have been running it at 10 degree before TDC. Have not done the valves for a bit, so was thinking of checking that too. I did just check the carbs for float level and sync them. If I keep the rpm done, it seems to run fine, which is fine for general driving. But it's just not right at higher rpms Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated
  3. Thanks for the reply Yes, it's a European Distributor, since I looked up the number on it. Competition manual says one spring. Will look for the earlier thread. Fuel system looks good. New fuel lines, fuel tank has been dropped and cleaned. Will check chokes. I looked at spark plugs, all the same but one was a bit cleaner than the rest, So maybe some coolant getting in? Just changed plugs, will look at them again. I did check timing, and put in my stock original distributor until I get the plate cleaned up. Will a sticky plate cause running issues?
  4. OK, Pulled the distributor and found the plate stuck, The diaphragm won't move when I took it off the distributor when I suck on it. I also found that one of the springs in the distributor is missing............
  5. well for starters, I went and pulled the distributor and the vacuum plate does not move, very sticky. I sucked on the vacuum pod, and no movement. I guess I need a new one, I bet that will be fun to find.....
  6. thanks for the response The carbs are stock SU's I just pulled #3 and #4 to see if there was a difference between the two carbs....... I will pull the rest of them, but I expect them all to be the same.......... IF not, that will be another issue.......
  7. Howdy, Just got my 71 240z out and took it for a drive. I had replaced the spark plugs with the stock NGK plugs before the winter season. During the winter, I would start it, move it around, but never really drove it. Today I took it out and had popping ( slight back fire) out the exhaust and no real power when I stepped on the gas. Got it home and checked the #4 and #3 spark plug, and they were black. I did turn the choke off when I was driving and it does not look like it's stuck on. So I am assuming that the issues is mixture on the carbs, but was also thinking of going back to Bosch Platinum plugs. I had good luck with them in the past and on other cars. I always thought that back fire out the exhaust would be a lean condition, so thought I would ask before I dive too far into it. Any advice is appreciated Thanks
  8. Still looking for a early style hinge. I will take a pair if that works better?
  9. I have not had an issue with priming the pump. But I do keep feel in the tank to help. Proper fitting lines help with restricting air...... IF your lines are empty, using a vacuum pump helps too.
  10. Great pictures Yes, the one I have is the picture on the right. I am not sure there is a difference between the upper hinge on the new style vs old. I would love to get a set of upper and lower for the drivers side. However, I would purchase both sides if that is easier. I have see the rebuild kits and have found a few companies that do that kind of work, but need to find a donor set. My driver side is not rusted out but is missing a few parts. I have a little of the typical sag, but the door still works ;-0 IF anyone know of a set for the drivers or a complete set, let me know. Thanks
  11. View Advert Series 1 Drivers side door hinge set? Looking for a drives side door hinge set for a series one 240z. I am looking for a new one that can be refurbished, or one that has been refurbished? Not sure what is out there, but thought i would see if anyone had a used one or if you know if I am dreaming? My current hinge is missing the spring, and has play in it. I do see later model hinges available, but would like to keep it original if possible? Let me know and I appreciate any advice Thanks Bob Advertiser 70z4fun Date 03/12/2022 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 1971 Model 240z  
  12. THIS ADVERT HAS EXPIRED!

    • WANTED
    • USED

    Looking for a drives side door hinge set for a series one 240z. I am looking for a new one that can be refurbished, or one that has been refurbished? Not sure what is out there, but thought i would see if anyone had a used one or if you know if I am dreaming? My current hinge is missing the spring, and has play in it. I do see later model hinges available, but would like to keep it original if possible? Let me know and I appreciate any advice Thanks Bob

    NO VALUE SPECIFIED

    , Oregon - US

  13. Ok, I feel better 😉 I thought something weird was going on. I know the three way valve on the air filter side is air vent, but for some reason I thought the fuel rail was an air vent too. I noticed that the end has a smaller hole, so it was "squirting" out fuel...... It makes sense that the gas needs to go somewhere...... I will replace that line and make sure that the hose clamps are tight. Thanks Bob
  14. Working on my car today, and I left the return line off where the hard line hose goes into the rubber hose by the fuel filter. Started the car, and a steady stream of fuel came out. Is that normal? I always thought that was an air vapor line? I did not realize that the hose going from the hardline hose that is the return line down on the frame rail had any pressure? I don't even remember checking to see if those clamps were tight....... IF that is not normal, I could use some advice..........
  15. Good point, I will replace the lines first. Can't seem to find a rebuild kit any way..........
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.