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70z4fun

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About 70z4fun

  • Rank
    Registered User

Contact

  • Map Location
    Sunriver, Oregon
  • Occupation
    The Career of Evil..... Astronomy

My Cars

  • About my Cars
    1970 240z HLS3018410 ( since 1979)
    1971 Fiat 850 Spyder ( since 1980)
    1982 Fiat X1/9 ( since 2003- Sold in 2008
    1989 Ferrari 328GTS ( since 9/08)
    A couple of Jeeps.....

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  1. Hi there, Do you still have the carbs with manifold? I assume it includes the balance tube? I am over in Central Oregon, so we can arrange something or ship Let me know' Thanks Bob
  2. Thanks for the information. No problem taking the wheel off, I just did not want to mess with the undercoating inside the wheel well Any thoughts on the stainless tank straps that some vendors have available? I could clean up mine, but stainless sounds nice.....
  3. Thanks for the feedback. Got those rubber boots and other things ordered. So, do I need to remove the inner fender panel to install the tank? Looks like I can install the filler hose flange underneath and then push up the new flexible hose to the filler flange. I can see this panel coming off easily, since the undercoating is think, and the screws look small.....
  4. Greetings all, Happy New Year I finally pulled my gas tank out of my series one car. I noticed a few things that I don't have answers to, so I thought I would post here: Video Player is loading. Play Video Replay Unmute Curr
  5. Thanks for the feedback, Interesting thought. I didn't think about the fuel tank since the fuel filter looks clean and it has fuel in it. But I am not in the engine compartment when it happens 😉 Is there a way to look inside the tank without removing it and see anything useful? I also was not aware there was a screen at the tank end. I have never yanked the tank since I have it, but alway "think" I am in good shape since I use ethanol free fuel. I would think if I am going to pull the tank, I should plan on doing the sender and hoses. I did do the evaporation hoses many ye
  6. Greetings all, So, a quick overview. I have a series one 240z, which is basically stock. It does have a updated coil, but still runs points and stock fuel pump. I have had this car for over 40 years, and it has been reliable over the years. I don't drive it as much as I should, but over the last few years, it has had the periodic power loss, then dies. It "feels" electrical, or like when half a bank of cylinders goes out on a newer car, just losses power then it just dies. I can restart it after a few minutes, but have had no luck fixing the issue. When it first happened, I cha
  7. So, I got a new Delphi mechanical fuel pump, and finally installed it. Drove about 20 miles, and the car died. Checked every thing, and found that there was no fuel. I put the old fuel pump in, which has been in the car for years, and the car started up after the carbs got fuel. Checked the pump, and it looks identical to the GMB fuel pump, and the Delphi looks identical except for the Delphi written on it. I checked to see if there was any suction after removing it, and there was none. Just a heads up, kinda of a bummer........
  8. Just curious to what drivability issues come along with a failing fuel pump? The mechanical fuel pumps have been around for a long time, and I know some leak oil. But what type of problems creep in with a bad fuel pump when driving? Thanks Bob
  9. I think we have two of their pumps here, but they are new, I assume that is no use to them or you?
  10. Ok, I have a front suspension from a donor car that I have had for over 20 years. Taking it apart, and I noticed the rotors are original. Should I keep these old rusted rotors for any reason? I know there are a ton of aftermarket rotors, but does Nissan even sell them anymore? Would the original rotors make any difference to someone restoring to original? Hate to just recycle them if they have some use ...... Any thoughts
  11. Howdy, I was playing with cleaning up my steering wheel, and when I removed it, I noticed that there was no screws going from the horn insulator to the steering wheel. There was a spring under the insulator, and the horn works, so I am wondering if the two screws are needed? I assume it is correct that the spring goes under the insulator then the washer and then the nut? i IF I need to replace those screws, what is the size? I looked at the reproduction part that motorsport has, it has the two screws, spring and insulator. If you screw the insulator to the wheel, does it still hav
  12. Ok, Got one of those Diablo blades for the sawzal, and it was off in 10 minutes. I spent way to much time hammering and soaking..... Thanks for the advice. Now I can proceed.......
  13. So, I am doing my struts on my 240z. and noticed different part numbers on the strut towers of the two different cars I have here. Was there a different strut tower used in the 240z line? I know the ball joints are different on the early cars. Is there a reference of what the part numbers are for the strut towers? I have two different numbers for the passenger side 54302-E4151 54302-E4150, Is it just a superseded number? Thanks Bob
  14. So, doing my struts on my series 1 car, and figured I would replace the lower control arm bushings, ball joints, etc....... Everything seem to be going well until I tried to take off the passenger side control arm bolt. The nut came right off, but the bolt is seized to the inner part of the bushing. I have pounded on it with the nut on it, soaked it, air impact wrench forward and backward, for the past couple of days. Thinking I might need to get the sawmill out..... Any other suggestions? I have replacement bolts, not sure I want to use a torch on it. I can move the contr
  15. I did get new seals and put it into my old pinion. My understanding is the same pinion works on all 240, 260. 280 and 280zx?
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