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About 70z4fun

  • Rank
    Registered User


  • Map Location
    Sunriver, Oregon
  • Occupation
    The Career of Evil..... Astronomy

My Cars

  • About my Cars
    1970 240z HLS3018410 ( since 1979)
    1971 Fiat 850 Spyder ( since 1980)
    1982 Fiat X1/9 ( since 2003- Sold in 2008
    1989 Ferrari 328GTS ( since 9/08)
    A couple of Jeeps.....

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  1. so I went with the 15" wheels and 205/50-15 Falken tires. There seems to be a few different options available in that size, so I thought I would give it a try. Tires are on order, so hope to see them on the car by the end of next week......
  2. So I reached under the driver side of the dash with my 8mm open end wrench and I was able to remove the gauge. Opened it up, and the faceplate had come loose and stopped the needle from moving. With the faceplate removed, i tested the gauge and it worked fine. I need to "glue" the faceplate back on, since the plastic "o ring" that held the faceplate and clear gauge cover on is what failed. Any thoughts on the type of glue? I was thinking CA or Ducco Cement. Thanks
  3. so, you can get that gauge out after removing glove box? I have done that for the clock, but not the other gauges. That would be way easier 😉
  4. Double checked the wiring, and everything looks good. Looks like the gauge needs to come out. I assume the best way to get it out is to remove the center heater control and center vent? I will check around for a spare and send this one off to get repaired. Any advice on removal is appreciated. Thanks
  5. Thanks for the advice Is there any other place to check for wiring issues besides the contact at the thermostat? Seems odd that it just stopped working after all these years/ I would hate to change it out and have the same issue. Maybe I should strip the wire at the connector and check before I start to remove the gauge. Not sure if there is another connector besides the one at the gauge Thanks
  6. cool, I will play with the calculator Which Falkens in a 205/50-15 do you run?
  7. Finally got some 15x7 Konig wheels for my series one 240z. I have 14" 280zx wheels mounted with some Kelly 195/60-14 tires. I was looking at the 205/60-15 or a 205/55-15 for the new wheels. I am thinking the 225/50-15 is not much of advantage, since there is not that much out there in that size either...Any experience with current tire options? I even thought about a 195/60-15 Goodyear Eagle, but that might be too weird looking on the car? I know there is not much out there for performance tires, looks like just summer touring tires.... Any thoughts or advice is greatly appreciated. Excit
  8. Howdy, Drove the z yesterday, and no water temp readings on the gauge. So I checked the connection on the thermostat and all looked good. When I got home, I took a jumper wire to the wire to the sender to the shock tower, turned the key, and nothing. So I am thinking my gauge is bad. Did a quick look on eBay, not much there for 140lb gauge. My question is, can these be repaired? Is there someone fixing all 240z gauges or am I just going to be looking for another gauge? Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks
  9. Hi there, Do you still have the carbs with manifold? I assume it includes the balance tube? I am over in Central Oregon, so we can arrange something or ship Let me know' Thanks Bob
  10. Thanks for the information. No problem taking the wheel off, I just did not want to mess with the undercoating inside the wheel well Any thoughts on the stainless tank straps that some vendors have available? I could clean up mine, but stainless sounds nice.....
  11. Thanks for the feedback. Got those rubber boots and other things ordered. So, do I need to remove the inner fender panel to install the tank? Looks like I can install the filler hose flange underneath and then push up the new flexible hose to the filler flange. I can see this panel coming off easily, since the undercoating is think, and the screws look small.....
  12. Greetings all, Happy New Year I finally pulled my gas tank out of my series one car. I noticed a few things that I don't have answers to, so I thought I would post here: Video Player is loading. Play Video Replay Unmute Curr
  13. Thanks for the feedback, Interesting thought. I didn't think about the fuel tank since the fuel filter looks clean and it has fuel in it. But I am not in the engine compartment when it happens 😉 Is there a way to look inside the tank without removing it and see anything useful? I also was not aware there was a screen at the tank end. I have never yanked the tank since I have it, but alway "think" I am in good shape since I use ethanol free fuel. I would think if I am going to pull the tank, I should plan on doing the sender and hoses. I did do the evaporation hoses many ye
  14. Greetings all, So, a quick overview. I have a series one 240z, which is basically stock. It does have a updated coil, but still runs points and stock fuel pump. I have had this car for over 40 years, and it has been reliable over the years. I don't drive it as much as I should, but over the last few years, it has had the periodic power loss, then dies. It "feels" electrical, or like when half a bank of cylinders goes out on a newer car, just losses power then it just dies. I can restart it after a few minutes, but have had no luck fixing the issue. When it first happened, I cha
  15. So, I got a new Delphi mechanical fuel pump, and finally installed it. Drove about 20 miles, and the car died. Checked every thing, and found that there was no fuel. I put the old fuel pump in, which has been in the car for years, and the car started up after the carbs got fuel. Checked the pump, and it looks identical to the GMB fuel pump, and the Delphi looks identical except for the Delphi written on it. I checked to see if there was any suction after removing it, and there was none. Just a heads up, kinda of a bummer........
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