70z4fun

Very good, super helpful. I will go take another look Thanks Bob

Went out an looked at the radiator today. I do not see any holes in the side to put the link into for the clip? IS there a slot or two holes holding that clip in? Thanks Bob

Cool, That is helpful, looks like I could make something like that...........

Just had my Radiator done on my 240z, and got it all back together, and attached the overflow tube that goes on the driver side of the radiator. I recall there being two clips down the side before it went to the radiator shop. Called them and they said they didn't need to remove them and checked to see if they were "laying around" in the back. No luck. So, am I confused? Is there two clips on the early radiator for the overflow tube? IF so, can someone let me know. Also a picture would be great in case I need to reinvent them or if anyone knows where I can find some. Any help is appreciated Thanks Bob

The old balancer is OLD and has cracked rubber on it, but seems fine. Thought I would pull it and have it either "serviced" or see if it's ok. I have one of the SFi Harmonic Balancer in the shop, so thought I would give that a try.......for the time being........

Well, Got the word on the radiator, small leak and needs the bracket welded up. Flows well and does not need to have the core replaced. So to get it right, about $400, which is a bit higher than I want, but they do good work. Asked about putting a new core in it, $1400....... IF it was a show car, I would think about, but $400 seem acceptable since I drive it and keep it original makes sense, instead of getting an aftermarket radiator......... Now to decide if I should replace the Harmonic Balancer and crank seal before I stick it back together........ Maybe next time I will put a new core in it,,,,,,,,,,,,,, I will be much older then.............

Thanks for the information. Yes, many years ago I recored my radiator in California to a 4 row core. That was most likely back in the 80's. Then I had a leak fixed about 20 years ago,,,,,,, now waiting to see the cost of repair at the radiator shop. For those that have had theirs recored, what was the cost? Pictures for reference.......

Hope your week is going well. I just noticed a bit of "weeping" at the fins on the engine side of my radiator.. Local club guys are suggesting an aluminum radiator, but I like the stock look. The current radiator is a four row, with the original tanks and the little guard on top. I have had this one rebuilt a couple times, so was thinking of just taking back to the same radiator shop and have them go through it. A few guys here were telling me that you can't keep rebuilding an old radiator..... Wanted to see if others have had issues with redoing a radiator that is over 50 years old?

In my pile of parts, I had a spare series 1 oil sender unit, so I switched them out. Took me longer to search through my spares than to switch it out. It was a good excuse to do an oil change too..........

Went out and pulled the oil pump again and after numerous attempts, I got it right, Took it for a drive and it is WAY better. Freely revs up to 5500 and would go more. I did get three "coughs" along the way, which I am hoping is old gas,,,,, but overall, much happier. I thought maybe my oil pan gasket was leaking under the oil filter, but the bottom of my oil pressure sender was wet, so I bet the sender is leaking...... Need to get the book out.......... Thanks for the help and encouragement.....

This is super helpful ;-) The sad thing is, I have the book and didn't even look...... Dumbhead........ I now think I am off, the screwdriver check photo makes me think I am off,,,,,, Will be getting the oil pump out again........... Thanks for posting this......

Ok, will check how the vacuum advance works as it revs up. How much change is there in the look of the 11:25 if the distributor drive is off by one tooth? I was thinking of dropping the oil pump and hold the distributor drive from above with some hemostats and try moving it back on tooth, the install the oil pump, but then the oil pump markings won't match the drive gear.......Is there a "trick" to turning the oil pump as you insert it into the front cover? I assume that the car will run when you are off by one or two gear teeth?

not sure I checked that. Are you asking what the advance is with the vacuum disconnected at 2500 - 3000 rpm? I can hook up the timing light and rev it up.......

Well. it seems to run better, need to check a few things, as it feels flat after 5K RPM. Wondering if I went too far on "one tooth"? No back fire, no hesitation, much happier........ IF the distributor drive is off by on tooth, will it drive this well? The rotor seems to be at the right position on the cap, but the "11:25" looking into the hole in the distributor mounts looks more like 11:30........ I am happier, but not sure it's perfect. Was able to set timing at 10degrees before TDC, but could not advance it much further with the 10mm lock down bolt.

Thanks for the responses. Went through the basics today, compression test, carb balance, mixture settings. I went through all the timing marks and alignment. I did end up putting the car on a lift and dropping the oil pump and rechecking the alignment marks. Last time I worked on this part of the car, I didn't have a lift and crawled under and had the sway bar in the way. I might have been adjusting distributor to compensate for a distributor drive being in the wrong place..........I kinda looks like it was off by one "tooth". I think the the distributor rotor looks like it's in a better spot. I will test drive it tomorrow .........