Topics Last Week

I've been traveling a lot recently, and been dealing with life, but I still managed to collect some cool stuff: I got hands on this cool vintage NISMO enamel sign from Japan: And this cool Poster, which shows a works GTS-II race car. The seller says he got it from a racing shop called Iwashita racing in Shizuoka, many years ago. According to Alan, it shows SCCN works car from the first round of 1972 Fuji Grand champion series on the 20th of March, with driver Kazuyoshi Hoshino. I also found this Dutch 1971 Datsun Advertising magazine. Usually I don't collect documents from other countries (there's just too many), but this one is special, because it shows an EU-spec prototype car. If you look closely, you will see the Fender-top mounted blinker / turn signals and the Rob Janssen homemade front spoiler, which led to the development of the OEM front spoiler for European cars by Nissan. Then I got a reproduction of the MK-1520 ZC car radio manual and a correct Swiss 1972 service / Warranty booklet for my car. After a bit of a search, I also managed to get this cool Nissan Oil Can: With the Elephant oil logo from the 240Z oil filler cap: I also got gifted a Center cap from a friend. Not the correct one for my car, but who am I to turn down freebies? I also found a set of NOS OEM FS5C71A transmission "monkey motion" shifter bushings. The original ones of mine were worn out, and I had them replaced with some red aftermarket ones, but these will definitely look better. Then I'm constantly on the hunt for the missing tools of the Datsun / Nissan tool boards, which I acquired recently. Luckily they pop up sometimes, and recently I got a bunch of missing ones: There are still quite a few missing, but 2/5 tool boards are complete now, and the remaining ones are filling up quickly. I'm currently awaiting more deliveries, so expect another update soon. Oh, You may have noticed that I've also reorganized my workshop and garage a bit for better usage of space.

I feel it looks worse than it is. I have found some questionable wiring for sure and I have every intention of inspecting the wiring. I think I would really enjoy trying to rewire the car using concentric twisting method. Its extreme for sure and totally impractical but it would be fun for me lol. Im still peeved I cant find terminals for the ignition module that isnt already wired, so I dont have to use butt splices or crimp terminals. If I ever find a house with a decent garage, the plan might be to completely strip and rebuild. I'm torn though because I really like the patina on it. At the very least ill replace the couple rusty spots. To me, this project is fun, Its satisfying to work through these problems. As far as the relay goes, one of my first jobs was working at an auto parts store. I absolutlely loved the paper book rack that we had. Back then, my project car was a ford escort. Most books had interchanges in the back of the book and between that and working with customers you could find a lot of off the radar parts. I was saddened at how difficult it was to find a proper interchange chart for something as simple as a relay. I miss those books.

The pits!

Ok, got it back together Check for continuity between the alternator output post wire and positive battery cable, which it did. Started it up, and got 14.8V at the battery........ so that's a good sign..... I did leave off the positive wires for the circuits that were hooked up to the positive battery cable: Headlight Relay Upgrade Parking Lights Relay Upgrade Driving Lights Stereo I will work and check those circuits this week. I suspect now that either the alternator was/is flaky, or one of the wires coming off the alternator might be flaky. I will start it up with and wiggle the wires with a meter connected. Not sure if I am happy or confused....... Any other advice on what to check?

Probably need to put some thought into replacing the short lines. You need to do an evaluation of what condition of the parts you’re working with.

It got a nice price when it had the L6. $46,200. Not sure that 454 is going to add value. I'd guess most of the aftermarket parts went on after that sale. No driving video yet. 1971 Datsun 240Z VIN HLS3042112 | Hagerty Valuation ToolsHave you seen this 1971 Datsun 240Z VIN HLS3042112 auction result?

Grab a torch - propane will do - and melt the body lead out of that section. That'll give you a better idea of how that sheet metal is shaped and spot welded together. There will be body lead in various places all up and down that pillar. The lead will probably have saved the sheet metal up near the window flange - and may give you a good clean section to weld to at that end.

I was describing its function, not the actual material wire. The trigger wire for the new tach is its own independent circuit. I was also trying to tease out if you're replacing the stock tach or adding another tach. Are you sticking the new tach in the hole where the old one is? Your other basic question might be "how do I keep my ignition system functioning if I remove my factory tach?". Since they are tied together in the 240Z's. Just breaking the "how do I connect my new tach?" question in to its elements. Seems like you're on top of it. Good luck.

What changes did he make to get all the plugs firing evenly?

https://www.amazon.com/Zig-furniture-upholstery-tempered-sinuous/dp/B01FE3PSZE

I got the rotary replacement kit from the Z Store (ZStore.com) but not sure if they still have the kits.

Ah yes. The "right setup" would include proper harnessing (no cutting or splicing), relays to isolate the power, adequate drivers for the blubs, no flicker, and adequate cooling. Also my opinion of the right setup would make it look period-correct for the car. Overall, I believe the only real reason to consider LED is to provide more powerful light output for driving. There's no real power savings needed on a gas powered car unless maybe to support a lower rated alternator. In my case, I don't really need LED unless I just want to go down that path for fun. I also considered LED's for my Land Cruiser, because the light output is pretty weak. However, I also decided against it because I couldn't find many options that met my requirement above.

Also, Japanese market variants had the option of factory stereo from beginning of production, so there are speaker holes in both sides of the interior quarter panel trims and the sheetmetal underneath them was designed to accept speaker mounts on both sides.

Never seen the last type. Suspect it is a retro fit that someone did from some other car. The first one is 240, second is 280, though can’t nail down the change over date. Could be as early as the north american 260 in 74. The fiche might provide the date info

Contact Oliver at Zspecialties to see if he has any. https://zspecialties.com/ I suggest calling him at the number at that website. Over at zcar.com, his user name is zmanofwashington.

1977 280z AFM from an EFI engine. Car had been sitting, everything looks in working order. asking $150 obo. located in Gilbert AZ

I worked on the heat shield/ cable bracket some more today. Here is the current pattern An earlier template on a piece of coil metal I glued it to piece of 16ga I had laying around A little cutting We will have to clearance it around some of the header pipes. Since it's an equal length header, they intrude on the carb area more than some We will use some stainless exhaust tube to deal with the clearanced areas. Once I finalize a design I will have sendcutsend fabricate it for me

I also got the tool covers from resurrected classics and got them installed A little nerve racking to bend the plastic hinges to mount them

Planning to swap an R200 into my Series 1 car (12/70 build date) and am looking for the mustache bar, front diff mount and insulator and the rear transverse link mount from a later 280Z that came with the R200.

Sent PM

Awe man this is a trap!

S30 parts are rare and expensive. Not enough competition or volume of sales to keep the price down.

This is the other name and email used during the email communications with Sully. Phaedra Rosengarth armychick44@hotmail.com He sent several pictures of the new tank and a few pictures of a partially restored tank that he allegedly was working on.

@Mike

For sale are 3 280zx gauge clusters (without clocks). One is for a right hand drive. I make no claim as to the function of the 2 gauges per cluster, but they should be good. Asking $15 plus shipping If interested contact me @ ron@zclocks.com