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I’m rebuilding my round top SU carbs on my 1971 240z and after everything was cleaned and put back together one of the pistons keeps binding in the dash pot when the top is screwed down. I’ve switched tops and the same thing happens. The jet and needle don’t bind at all and the piston slides freely with the top not screwed down. I’ve tried tightening the screws gradually and making sure the piston slides freely as I go but every time the screws are fully tightened the piston gets stuck and won’t fully drop. Any suggestions? Do the screws need to be fully tightened for the carb to function or can they be snug without causing issue? The carbs are 4 screw tops.

Hi cgsheen1! Thanks for the recommendations. I am running the latest version of Microsquirt, 440cc Bosch injectors, Spartan 3 v2, crank 36-1 wheel with HALL sensor, LM7 truck coils with batch firing, AZC oil pan. I will try making Microsquirt work with the turbo (no sequential ignition). I have only one output left (relay) which I can use for an electric fan, for ex. I was aiming for 8-10 lbs of boost to play it safe and keeping my stock rear diff/half-shafts alive. I looked up some parts from rockauto and here is a list if it works? EXEDY 06030 clutch kit, 1975 2+2 Flywheel: AMS AUTOMOTIVE / RHINOPAC 167304, for 2+2 model Throwout bearing, WJB / INMOTION PARTS WRDNE01576C (any manufacturer preference?) Hopefully, if the car parts are for 2+2 model, I am not going to run into any issues with the fitment/clutch fork throw. I just installed a brand new master and slave clutch cylinders (for my 280z 1976 model). Will this create a problem? (I checked the part numbers, they are the same for 76 and 75, I think I should be good here). I started a thread here on hybridz dealing with my project: https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/136053-76-280z-microsquirt-project/ Thanks! Den

I have no idea if I did or not, but feel free to copy it over there, or maybe @Mike can duplicate the post there.

Even though you put a ton of work into fixing up your old garage, I guess it wasn't too difficult to leave it behind in return for a clean, modern garage already equipped with a good floor, good lighting and three bays (not to mention a separate, two-level barn for storing panels and parts. 👍

They have a hinge mount plate on the inside that will fall when the bolts are removed.

Actually, because of safety, some organizing bodies forbid chest straps without something to hold the shoulder belts from slipping out.

Namerow got me searching... You can buy trammel point on Amazon pretty cheap. Add a 1x2 thats long enough and you should be good to go... https://www.amazon.com/s?k=trammel+points&crid=K19KM88E6XBD&sprefix=tammel+heads%2Caps%2C343&ref=nb_sb_ss_p13n-pd-dpltr-ranker_1_13 My frame man uses them alot to make sure the car is square and even. You set it for one side or one diagonal and the mirror side should be identical

I appreciate the explanation and truly feel your pain doing this in the vehicle.

Bit late to the party but I believe my 280z came with the same or allmost the same wheels. Don’t know if they are modified as I haven’t taken the wheels off yet but I must say they look pretty good under my silver Z. Attached is one of the pictures from the auction I bought the car from. The seller also included the original set of wheels but I prefer these. Tire size is 225/60R14 in the rear and 195/70R14 in the front.

@Patcon Having said that, I just looked through the excellently-researched 'Vintage Z Restoration Program Historical Compendium' put together by Chris Wenzel @26th-Z and he too specifically quotes powder coating as having been used. From the Compendium: "Nissan literature talks briefly about updating some aspects of the 240Z. A 3-row radiator was used and the tire specification was updated. In an effort to provide more durability to suspension components they were powder coated "to factory colors" so as to "ensure that you will enjoy your 240Z's performance for years to come"." Obviously it's a quote from NMC USA's VZ Program sales literature, so I don't know if that was the reality or not, but the fact that the independent Japanese journalist who visited Pierre'Z in person reported the same thing might suggest something. Of course he could simply have been quoting the literature, I don't know. I've always found powder coating to be much too thick on such parts, and there's always an issue where the powder coating transitions to a wear/bearing/mounting surface. I've seen it peel away in those places, so I much prefer paint (as per original manufacturing). Inspection of a few VZ Program cars would probably settle the question as to what was actually applied on them.

Ok I will check on that tomorrow and will update you guys, thanks for the help. I appreciate it a bunch.

Well done Ken. Perseverance par excellence! Dashboards are not fund to work on.

Understood Darom! If you decide you don’t need them and want to get rid of them, just shoot me a message. Thanks!

Attack of the killer B’s!

Hi, I don't think he will respond, but you can get your parts from: Z-Services.eu | Shop for Datsun 240Z, 260Z & 280Z I also have a lot of parts for Z's not specific for the 280z as this was never a euro car.. Oh and yes as my name says i'm from the Netherlands too.

Horror House on Highway Five (1985)

Back to normal programming. This 240Z auction is ending today but it's already up to $23,000. Kind of surprising considering its unusual appearance. It does look clean though. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-293/

Sure thing!

Rear view mirror, with attach brackets and sun visor support pads, including screws. Missing knob to adjust mirror.

For sale is a rebuilt circuit board for the 75-78 280z OEM clock. The circuit boad is usually what fails. Cost is $80 (includes shipping). For questions contact me at: ron@zclocks.com. Thanks for looking....

I remember my older brother and Dad were swapping a clutch. I jumped in the car, pushed the clutch to the floor, blowing out the slave cylinder. I got out of the car and started running! Fun times. My Dad is now 87 and loves to brag on my mechanic ability. He's my biggest fan.....now. Lots of great memories.

All, The mounted muffler appears to be silver. The unmounted muffler (photos 2 and 3 above) have a greenish tint. Any consensus on the correct color? Thanks, Keith

Bump Anyone have a comment? Keith