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Found 3 results

  1. I've had a slow leak for years at the engine/transmission area and hoped it was just an oil pan gasket. After replacing the gasket with a rubber Fel-Pro, it continued to leak near the same place. I pulled the transmission (quite fun by myself) and clutch/flywheel only to find that the rear crank seal was not the source. After cleaning it all and letting it sit overnight, I had a small amount of oil above the pan/gasket, but not a drop from the seal. It looks to have been replaced when the previous owner had the clutch done years ago. After wiping it clean again, I carefully tightened the 3 oil pan bolts just a bit and saw oil ooze out from these two areas: Would replacing the two 'side seals' solve this problem? Should I bother replacing that main seal while its accessible? Bummer I pulled the transmission only to find this out, but it did give me a chance to clean 40 years of gunk off it. I can adjust the parking brake assembly, too.
  2. I recently swapped some 240Z Carbs onto my 260Z, capped everything according to the other swap thread in this subforum (the only things that are unplugged are the PVC valve which im pretty sure has been unplugged since I got the car and the overflow hoses which arent connected to the air cleaner). I cranked the engine maybe 5 times before the car started and revved to 4000rpms and stayed there. I tried rearranging hoses and plugs and it did the same exact thing. the next day it wouldnt start and the engine would start going at very low rpms and would die at the same time the carbs spit gas out of the intake and would also have gas dripping from the fuel delivery line and the side of the float bowl. I havent been able to start it since then and have checked: The fuel return hose, still has the pressure cap on the end and gas moves through it. Checked the floats, the needle valve works, the needle is straight and the suction chamber moves freely The sparkplugs fire and I recently had the timing done. The gasket on my float bowl was shot, so I took it off (temporarily until I can get it running and the gaskets come in the mail) and it stopped the leaking on the front carb, but the rear carb continues to spill gas on the exhaust. There is only maybe an inch MAX of gas of the float bowl so I know its not flooding, but I dont know what else to check/replace. As a last ditch effort and because I dont know what to do, I capped the overflow lines, and the car started showing some semblance of its old self and started up as it usually would although a bit slowly, but there are a ton of warnings all over the forums saying NOT to do this. Are the float bowls pressurized? Any idea what else I can check/ replace to narrow this down?
  3. Hi Folks, Long time lurker, first time poster. I've searched for this and unfortunately haven't found anything. Does anyone know where I could get the rubber seals (gaskets?) for the stock SU air cleaner? This would be for the early air cleaner (non flap, non heat-riser tube). I am thinking about getting rid of my individual round K&N filters and going back to the stock air cleaner box. Oh, and would anyone happen to have an extra set of bolts for the air cleaner? I'm missing one of the wing-nut/inner bolt pairs. You know, the one that holds the outer shell to the mounting plate and the bolt that goes inside the air cleaner between the outer bolt and the mounting plate. Thanks! -Dan
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