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Found 20 results

  1. A few of you may know this. But last year I designed and made a coil on plug bracket based of Bryan Blake’s ford coil on plug design. It uses the Nissan coil head used on the Nissan GTR R35. Works perfectly, bolts on and you can even buy a very nice pre made wiring harness from platinum racing products. Coils are fairly cost effective. Takes a specific boot (2-3 actually work) to work. It’s one of the best coils on the market. I believe only the AEM coil beats it. Basically he took my design based off of his, then fixed some of my issu
  2. Hi All, I'm brand new to this club/forum, but have found a lot of value in it over the last few months. My dad, son and I started a project car a few months ago. It is a car we bought from a kid who took it apart and couldn't figure out how to put it back together. I think we're 99% of the way getting it back together and running, but we're struggling with an EFI issue. This is a very long post, but hopefully that helps rule out some of the initial suggestions guys have and drill into the real issue quick. Just to answer the standard questions: We have fuel to the
  3. Hello everyone, and thanks in advance for any help you can give me. My 1976 280z was running fine last time I drove it, but after sitting in the CA sun for 2 years, I'm struggling to get it back on the road. After draining out the old gas, I have a new battery, new spark plugs, and a couple gallons of new gas in. When I go to start it, all I get is cranking, and no turn over, and I have yet to hear the fuel pump cone on. I've tried moving the new battery to the rear and getting 12v to the fuel pump directly, but this doesn't get the fuel pump going either, just a click. I also don
  4. I have 2 of the stock 75-78 280Z throttle position switches. One is new. I bought it to use on my L28 and ended up having the car totaled by a talentless Firebird driver on I680 a few years back. The other is used. MSA lists these at @$90 but NLA. So let's use that as the price for the new one. The used one at $25. Both are plus shipping and should fit in a small Priority Mail box
  5. Version 1.0.0


    This is a list of all the Bosch Jetronics EFI connectors 2-Pin up to 7-Pin. All connectors and "Standard" rubber caps were still available in November - December 2016. Information can be found on the Bosch connectors website https://www.bosch-connectors.com/ BOSCH CONTACT HOTLINE (US) +1 954 635 4543 (UK) +44 151 2373412 (DE) +49 391 6073002 EuroDat
  6. My 1976 280z won't rev past 3500 when not in gear, and about 2000 when in gear. When in neutral it will blow clouds of black smoke at higher rpm. It has run way to rich like this since I bought it. I have checked the wiring and sensors and rectified the issues I found to no avail. The water temp sensor was the first place I looked, I replaced it when I first got the car. It is giving the correct reading all the way to the ECU and has a noticeable effect when I unplug it. My only guess would be a AFM, I have two but don't know the condition of either. They both passed the ohm tests, could there
  7. Z ran when parked Had it running in January after I chased down a misfire issue that came from a faulty ECU. She ran mint so I began my tear down, months later here we are and I thought Id have it running today but no luck. Heres what I got so far from trouble shooting. My battery is fully charged (tender says 100%), its less than a year old. My digital multimeter has it showing about 12.8 yet when I put the car on the "ON" position, my battery gauge in the dash reads about 8.5. I tested the ECU pins with a dmm and it will read 8 and change. Is this normal? Is this a fault in the vol
  8. Hi all, Some time ago a fellow member Lenny was in the process of making an aftermarket ECU which would be a bolt-in replacement for the standard ECU. It was a great idea and I was hoping it would be a success. Unfortunately Lenny was sided tracked and the project stalled. I like the retro EFI in the 280Z, but I would like to have something tunable and it’s getting harder to find good functioning parts for the 280Z. Now for so something I never thought I would do: Fit an aftermarket ECU. Now how to go about it. Which system should I use and should it be a complete swap o
  9. Hello I just bought a 1976 280z, My first z but i have done a lot of research on them. It will start up easily and run cold well at around 800rpm. But once it warms up (the temp gauge is about in the middle.) It will drop down to 500rpm and stutter. If I give it barley any throttle to bring it to 800 rpm it is fine but if I go up to 1000-1200rpm it will back fire through the intake and exhaust. The plugs are back but not fouled. If I manually control the AFM it will run fine. I also unplugged the connector to the cold start injector but it did not seem to change anything. I am thinking th
  10. Hi I have a 78 280Z that wont run. 2 Owner California car, very clean. I had it running when i bought it, but it always started rough, backfiring and sputtering. After replacing some hoses, I drove it about a mile and it started running very rough and had a major loss of power. I have checked for spark and fuel pressure (you can hear the pump running, too). It will crank and not even backfire or fire at all. Compression is also good. I do question the wiring because the pins on the ECU/ computer and the leads on the fuel injectors do not correspond with a wiring diagram I have. Faulty crank se
  11. Hey Everybody, A few months ago I acquired myself a rust bucket 76' 280z (mainly for parts and drivetrain) I want to get the engine running to confirm that it is worthy of holding onto. Somehow I cannot get the injectors to pulse. The car fires right up when hit with ether and will run as long as ether is supplied. BEFORE everyone goes ahead and says it I DO have the EFI BIBLE and have gone through it best of my ability to follow the testing suggestions. What I've done so far: Pulled all 6 injectors, tested that they open and produce fuel, not clogged. Have a NEW F
  12. Recently bought a Z and am sorting out the issues. It runs albeit on the 3 rear cyclinders. New fuel pump, new NGK wires and plugs, distributor looks like it was replaced not long ago. Coil looks original (new MSD blaster in the mail). I know it's getting fuel, spark and air. I know all 6 injectors are functional. Just not all at the same time. When I crank it, it starts almost instantly, when I place my screw driver to each injector, only the rear bank makes the clicking. Removing any of the front 3 injector pig tails doesn't affect idle. When i place the rear 3 inject
  13. 47 downloads

    EFI Book 1975
  14. 153 downloads

    EFI Book 1980
  15. Hi all, while rummaging through my storage unit I found a complete EFI system for a 1978 280z. I remembered I pulled this system out of a working 2+2 car before I parted it out. For some reason, I kept the system in a few boxes in my garage. Anyway, the system is complete with an intake manifold, fuel rail, injectors, computer, harness, and filter box. Let me know if you're interested and how much you're willing to pay. If there's enough interest I'll have to go back to the storage unit and take some photos. Thanks! Mike
  16. Engine turns over, then stalls. Checked all fusible links, no issue. Fails first test of the EFI bible...no power at the plug to ECU.. Could use some advice, please.
  17. Hi all: I searched here for the answer, and I Googled a bit for a source. But no luck so far, other than Ebay, which has connectors that don't look the same as mine. I noticed on my '77 (that I just bought) that the AFM connector does not seem to have any retaining means in the AFM. If I unbolt the AFM, the connector falls out as soon as I move it. I'm concerned the connector will fall out while driving. Is there a source for a replacement connector, aside from getting an entire harness? I can't even tell what is supposed to retain it. But I assume this is not an uncommon issue
  18. My apologies if this is a duplicate, the system seems to have just swallowed my carefully crafted posting (telling me I wasn't logged in). Here goes again. I just bought a 1976 280Z as a project car. The body is in good shape but its been partially dismantled. The previous owner took it apart to move some performance parts to his new Z. So it came with the EFI intake/throttle off the car (along with a bag of misc stuff). Exhaust is missing (I have MOTORSPORT TBC Coated 6-1 Header, and MSA premium exhause on order from the Z store). Bumpers are off. Interior taken apart. Drum brakes nee
  19. Hi I'm new to this page and the car only owning it for 2 months. Being 17 and being used to dealing with carburetors. So to the issue it is running rich I have replaced the coolant temp sensor and the 7th injector plug, have adjusted the air/fuel screw also but still getting too much fuel, please help.
  20. This is probably a DUMB question but.... I'm replacing all my gauges with Speedhut gauges to include their oil pressure and coolant temp units. I see from the FSM that both of the stock sending units go to the EFI control unit. Also, the new units require the use of their sending units. So... 1. Will the elimination of the stock sending units for oil and temp cause a problem with the fuel EFI control? 2. If I use Speedhut's sending units, which must be of different current and/r resistance than stock, be OK? 3. Do I need to keep the stock senders in place and ADD the new ones just for the gaug
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