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zdude1967

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About zdude1967

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  1. Thanks- cleaned the connector and it seems to be better. However I noticed that my A/C fuse in the fuse box- 2nd one up from the bottom on the right is very hot. I was running the fan which only works on the low setting and the fuse becomes too hot to touch. It is an A/C car with the A/C components removed. Since the fan only works on one of the three speeds do you think that is the reason for the fuse to be so hot?
  2. Thanks everyone for the input - I will get to work on this ASAP
  3. I have a 74 260 and a few times the Tach, temp, fuel and oil pressure gauge have stopped working and then just started working again - the Amp gauge however did not stop, it continued to work while the other gauges took a nap. Anyone have any idea what may be causing this. I do have the crane ignition which plays a bit of havoc with my Tach (it makes it erratic). Any thoughts why this is happening
  4. Thanks for everyone's help. I adjusted the dizzy tang and it runs great
  5. Thanks I will work on it this weekend and see what happens. I will let you guys know the outcome. one other question if the spindle were to be adjusted to add more advance as Zed head mentioned in a prior response would it be turned clockwise or counterclockwise.
  6. 7tooZ I am sorry I was not clear with my question.You said you should be able to point the rotor at number 1 cable then rotate the module on the bracket until the red light come on. Do you mean slide it on the banana shaped bracket and is the red light the one on the crane module. Slide it until that light comes on?
  7. 7tooZ So just unscrew the silver screw and move the module clockwise and adjust using that extra play in the banana shaped bracket. That will give more range to adjust the advance. The red light on the crane module. What does that mean when the light comes on.
  8. Zed head- to get the dizzy back into the adjustment range would I turn the drive quill clockwise or counter clockwise. Thanks
  9. Mark-thanks. I used a bit after the piston stopped raising and before it started dropping so I would guess I am close Zed head- Dizzy is a stock replacement from motorsports, I bought a few years back. I cannot recall if it came with a new base. Also it has the crane xr -700 ignition module which requires a different piece to be put under the rotor that comes with the crane module.Is it possible that when the engine was rebuilt since they did not use the Nissan cam gear (the one with the numbers and the v notch) is it possible that they set the chain up one tooth or something off and would that create the situation I am having with being out of advance
  10. Thanks for the information. I set up TDC the best I could . The car starts however a few issues and questions. First question is when the piston is at the top of its stroke using the chop stick highly technical tool the piston remains stationary as the crank is hand turned for just a bit before starting to move down for the power stroke. So is TDC when the piston first reaches the top of its stroke or is it prior to starting to come down for the power stroke, or or somewhere in the little bit of rotation I can get by hand in between those two points.That was the question now the issue- in trying to time with the timing light I advance the dizzy as far as it will go and it is not advanced enough- it is about 6 to 8 degrees BTDC. The car needs additional advance as it stalls. What would be the reason that I turn the dizzy as far as it will go and it is not enough. What is a solution for this. Would using the point that the piston first stops moving up to TDC allow the dizzy to give a bit more advance. Thoughts anyone
  11. I need to find TDC because I replaced the oli pump and now it wont start. I believe this is because it was not at TDC when I installed the oil pump. The tab was replaced with a tab for early model 74 260z -this car is a late model and the damper never pointed correctly at the tab . In the past I made a mark on the damper when I put it at TDC. The damper was rebuilt recently as it was separating, so the mark is gone. I want to work on this today, if I rotate the engine by hand and find a piston at the begining of its travel closest to the spark plug then as it goes down see the intake open , close at bottom and stay closed until heading up for the exhaust stroke can I then keep doing this until I find it doing this through the proper firing order then identify #1
  12. Here is the situation: Engine was rebuilt the cam timing chain gear is not the standard with the notch, the car doesn't have a timing tab and the dizzy has been set wrong so how do I find TDC with tis situation. Can I remove the valve cover, rotate the engine by hand until I get one of the pistons to the top of its stroke. Then rotate that one through its 4 cycle stroke until i find the pattern of intake opening at the top of the cylinders stroke, closing until exhaust valve opens coming up exhaust stroke and find the 1,53,6,2,4 pattern of this then rotate the engine through to go back to # 1 and set it at TDC. I may not be explaining this clearly but I would be happy to further explain. Basically there are no indicators to determine where the engine is so I am a bit lost.BTW - I am using a chopstick to feel the piston reach the top of its stroke through this process
  13. Yes- I do understand however it does not start. I appreciate your help. At this point I set it in the middle of the dizzy adjustment and then once it started I would time it. I think it times at 12 degrees BTDC. I could be off on that but I would check before doing it. How do you time it after you bring it to TDC to replace the oil pump prior to starting it. I assumed you put the dizzy in the middle of advance and retard, start it and adjust the dizzy (timing from there) . Is that not how it works or do you hook up the timing light as you mentioned and shoot it at the damper and timing tab as you crank it and adjust the dizzy ?
  14. I put the dizzy in the middle position- I assume that takes care of ignition timing. If it does not let me know. Have confirmed spark using a timing light - it flashed on all wires so it should have spark. I replaced a radiator and front cover seal, and oil pump. I think the oil pump would be the only thing that could effect starting. What are your thoughts on the oil pump shaft direction that I used per the rebuild book
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