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About zdude1967

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  1. Can anyone tell me what these things are on a 1974 late model 260z Unknown item 1 is on the passenger side mounted above the frame rail.(silver box mounting screws on top, might have been black in the past) Unknown item 2 (rectangle metal box with wires going to it) is under the black cover on the passenger side in front of the battery on the fender well. It is under the black cover on the back side (towards back of car). item 3 is on the opposite side of item 2 under the black cover towards the front of the car.(smaller metal box with wires connected) Item 4 (the silver
  2. UPDATE - so the battery and alternator were checked both were fine. The other day I installed a resistor on my tach connection- reason being that I installed the crane xr-3000 awhile back and my tach then became bouncy and erratic. So it fixed the tach issue PLUS...HERE IT COMES also the tach bouncing when the turn signal was on. Seems the crane upgrade can jack up quite a few things. Well anyway this solved two issues both the tach erratic behavior due to the crane install plus my electrical issue when the turn-signal is on. Like a buy one get one free...
  3. Thanks everyone- I will get on this tomorrow and begin by getting the alternator and battery checked. I had fixed bad turn signals on this car a few years back, replaced the hazard switch the combo switch, flasher and the signals worked however a few months ago the passenger side stopped working maybe this is part of the current issue perhaps due to corrosion ?
  4. I had the 74-260z out the other day at night. Headlights as well as radio and heater fan on. I had to make a turn and put the blinker on and the headlights and dash lights started dimming with each blink of the turn signal, the amp gauge also dropped with every blink and the tach gauge also dropped with every blink. Is this normal or do I have an issue with something. I know the electrical system in these cars does not produce much surplus power so is this normal.
  5. I got the Z out yesterday and have some updated info. At idle if you rev it the idle drops and takes awhile to recover as indicated above- so it does not have to be driving to do this. If you pump the brakes at a standstill the idle also drops not as severely- it recovers after a few seconds. I took the car out yesterday and it was colder out about 65 degrees - the last time I dialed in the cabs it was probably 90 ish. Anyway the idle issue was worse yesterday- when approaching a stoplight I put the car in neutral and rolled to the stoplight -it stalled, it also stalled a few other times when
  6. I will try the brake booster while parked tomorrow and get back to you. What do the connectors to the carbon canister do- as I mentioned they are kinda jacked up.
  7. When stopping at a red light the idle lowers on my round top SU carb 260z.It takes anywhere from 3 to 15 seconds to increase by itself back up to 800/ 900 RPM. It lowers to about 500 RPM and as mentioned increases slowly back to regular idle speed. If I pull away from the light before the idle increases the car stammers. What is causing this, vacuum leak, vacuum advance issue or something else. How can I fix this. Some additional information the connectors on my carbon canister are broken so they are not connected very well- would this cause it....Thoughts , suggestions???
  8. Thanks- cleaned the connector and it seems to be better. However I noticed that my A/C fuse in the fuse box- 2nd one up from the bottom on the right is very hot. I was running the fan which only works on the low setting and the fuse becomes too hot to touch. It is an A/C car with the A/C components removed. Since the fan only works on one of the three speeds do you think that is the reason for the fuse to be so hot?
  9. Thanks everyone for the input - I will get to work on this ASAP
  10. I have a 74 260 and a few times the Tach, temp, fuel and oil pressure gauge have stopped working and then just started working again - the Amp gauge however did not stop, it continued to work while the other gauges took a nap. Anyone have any idea what may be causing this. I do have the crane ignition which plays a bit of havoc with my Tach (it makes it erratic). Any thoughts why this is happening
  11. Thanks for everyone's help. I adjusted the dizzy tang and it runs great
  12. Thanks I will work on it this weekend and see what happens. I will let you guys know the outcome. one other question if the spindle were to be adjusted to add more advance as Zed head mentioned in a prior response would it be turned clockwise or counterclockwise.
  13. 7tooZ I am sorry I was not clear with my question.You said you should be able to point the rotor at number 1 cable then rotate the module on the bracket until the red light come on. Do you mean slide it on the banana shaped bracket and is the red light the one on the crane module. Slide it until that light comes on?
  14. 7tooZ So just unscrew the silver screw and move the module clockwise and adjust using that extra play in the banana shaped bracket. That will give more range to adjust the advance. The red light on the crane module. What does that mean when the light comes on.
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