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Found 8 results

  1. Just recently bought a 280z and was trying to get it up and running again but ran into a few problems. I'm getting no spark to the engine. I have replaced the ignition coil as the previous one did not carry resistance. Also the distributor rotor spins and the connections do not seem to be corroded. But still no spark to the engine. When hooking up a spark plug tester I'm getting no light which I am told means a ignition system issue. My last resort is purchasing an ignition control module but, ya know, it's expensive. Would like your guys' take on this. Any help is appreciated. And btw it cranks and everything. Nothing timing related, she's trying her hardest.
  2. I recently restored the fuel tank because rust was blocking the fuel line, resulting in the obvious problem. But I am still occasionally experiencing a combustion problem. My engine has cut out on me twice while driving. I also had problems starting the car last night and this morning. The engine turned over as it should, but I wasn't getting combustion for a couple minutes. With a bit of persistence, the engined eventually roared to life with an excessive amount of grey smoke coming out of the tail pipe for 30-45 seconds. The car now starts and drives, but for how long? Any thoughts/advice regarding likely problems and solutions?
  3. I'm having intermittent issues with starting up. I believe it is related to the ignition startup. I have read all FSM manuals. The only way I can get it to start is by using a jumper wire from the battery to ignition circuit on the fuse box in the pasenger kick panel. Does anyone know what that means?
  4. L26 engine-E88 head/automatic transmission running when removed from car in 1982. Engine transmission stored in a shed. Willing to part out or sell as a unit.
  5. So what i am dealing with is a 74 260z coupe with a 5 speed from a 280z and the starter on it is from a 280zx. Initially I use to have issues with the key ignition just clicking over, so I bypassed that with a push start to turn the starter over, after that resulted in the same outcome after a good while I decided to install a stand alone starter silinoid and ran the push start to it then to the starter. Now my issue is the start just spins, Ive had the started tested at a local autoparts retailer and it passed, I even tried a new starter and new battery all with the same outcome, When looking at the flywheel it doesnt seem to be to far gone that it wouldnt be engaging. One odd thing is if I jump the starter it will spin but shortly after that i can hit the push start and it will engage... SOMETIMES. I am really baffled with what to do from this point if anyone has any ideas I would greatly appreciate your help.
  6. i'll preface this with the fact that i rebuild my engine and refreshed the engine bay which involved removing everything from it. i didn't touch anything under the dash. it's definitely not the starter; the engine turns over when the starter solenoid is connected directly to the battery. when the key is turned, the dash and body lights come on, but when the key is fully engaged, the seat belt alarm comes on and there's a clunking sound coming from the area above the fuse box. i've got continuity between the yellow wire on the starter solenoid and the black/yellow wire going to the ignition switch, but when i've got 12V going to the switch, it never gets to the yellow wire at the starter solenoid. is there anything else i'm missing that i should check? edit: forgot to say that my battery keeps going dead, and it was fine before the rebuild.
  7. I have been working on my Z for almost 2 years now, and what an experience! I am getting it back to really good condition. It has an electronic/push button start, and the tach is not functional. Anyone know where the tach should be hooked up to? Thanks!
  8. I've got a strange one. My 73 is pretty stock. It does have an aftermarket crane ignition, but I can't see how this would cause the following problem. When it hasn't been started for a few hours, and the engine is cooled to the ambient 90 degree air temp, the first two or so times you turn the key, the starter behaves as if it isn't getting enough power. It sounds like the battery is almost dead, and simply cranks slowly. On the third try, the starter cranks normally, and the engine starts fine. If the engine is hot, this problem won't happen. I've read up on cleaning the electrical connections between the battery and the starter, done that, no change. I'd really hate to buy a new starter and still have this problem, but that seems to be the next thing to try. Any thoughts?