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z32 fairlady

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About z32 fairlady

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    Wimauma, FL

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  1. I am roughly 6 months (estimated) away from putting the car in the shop for body work. In the meantime, I am stripping the car and enjoying it after getting it running right and in a reliable state. The car had a vinyl top which I removed hastily a year ago causing a majority of the adhesive to bake onto roof. I recently removed the vinyl from the hatch lid which left me in awe at the original paint. Neither here nor there... Real reason for the post - Is it worth putting some sort of rust inhibitor on the roof and affected areas between now and until it goes into the body
  2. I'm contemplating bypass because one of the plastic inlets broke on the current tank and swapping to a metal would require some hammering in. Have not experienced vapor lock. The current set-up does have round top SU carbs and SS headers from ZStory. There is the stock heat shield between carbs and headers. I am being thorough in the thought process.
  3. Thank you @siteunseen I also came across Carl's summary link - http://zhome.com/Racing/FuelTankVaporLineMod/FuelTankVaporMod.htm It seems this may be a tad better at preventing vapor lock as is has the vent to the outside? I compared the diagrams from your link to the one I am posting.
  4. Nope, no flying cars. Some of us are now coming across this issue Probably one of the better threads I've read on this subject. Can anyone provide more detail on what areas needed to be "hammered in" going from a early 71 plastic tank to a 72 metal tank?
  5. @Matthew Abate The car is a numbers matching car and I intend to keep it that way with the 4 speed as well. I am in the process of getting the car to a running and reliable state. Next after some recovery, financial wise, is body work. At this time the engine will be out and I intend to do a rebuild while upgrading choice components. I am building the car for longevity along with some modern refinements for "ease of maintenance". I am a one and done type of person and put forth my effort up front in the research so I can get it done right the first time. My 4 month old son is my
  6. I certainly am. Thank you all for your contributions, especially @Matthew Abate. Having all the info in one place or in a concise location as you've presented it is what I was hoping for in a response.
  7. I am currently looking into doing a distributorless, coil on plug conversion on my L24 engine. I'd to gain an understanding of what parts were used in the conversion. Are there any fabrication needs or any other "gotchas" I may not be aware of? I would think most if not all L-series, 6-cyl engines would fare similarly with compatibility. There is no clear how-to online. The goal is to end up with a setup with reliability and quality. Part/model numbers are certainly appreciated. Here are some of the links I've come acorss in researching - http://blakemachine.com/performanc
  8. I've only recently came across Z Story on FB. Thank you for the video and information. Sounds fantastic.
  9. Current feedback requested. Including some pictures for additional review and feedback. It may be best do the floor pans as we're already addressing the rails. Bad Dog's seem to be more beefy and I am wondering of there'd be any concern with material type/size using the Bad Dog rails with floor pans from elsewhere. And only the front frame rail is/was damaged. But comtemplating do the rear as well. The passenger side is also worse off than the driver side. However, contemplating doing driver side as well. I am aware of other outlets (Datsun Z Parts, MSA, Z Car Depot, etc). Considerin
  10. I am familiar with ZTherapy (Oregon) and Paltech (Ohio) services although have not used either personally. However, I am curious to know if there are any local, trustworthy shops in FL that are able to rebuild the SU Carbs for a '71 240Z. I've also come across these - https://www.ebay.com/itm/DATSUN-240Z...19.m1438.l2649 Basically my concern is the turn around time. I thought about rebuilding it myself and found a great write up but it might take me just as long with the current 2-3 month wait time. Too many projects on the honey-do list for the new year... Thoughts and feedback on ve
  11. Thanks SteveJ. I found this video to be the most helpful - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y9wZvcr3v2c. In changing the fuel filter now noticed the fuel hose is cracked And I have a slight backfire probably needs some tweaking.
  12. I did not. I can't say the FSM was clear on how to do that also. Are the point screws the set screws or the adjuster screw? Maybe the 's' is throwing me off.
  13. I recently acquired a 71 240Z. The car was sitting for the better part of 4 years however it started on first turn. The gentleman who owned it before did what's necessary to keep it in running condition. Although the car was drivable it would occasionally hesitate or sputter in 3rd or 4th gear at cruise speeds. It was evident there was a sediment in the fuel filter. I decided to due a tune up for good measure and ordered major tune up kit from MSA (http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/12-4700). I changed the fuel filter first then started the car to ensure it started. Success. I th
  14. I'm not sure where else to post this. Mods feel free to move it if need be. I am an avid reader of various automobile related blog sites. Once in a while we come across those stores were an owner is reunited with their car from either having to sell it at some point in their life or it was stolen. I can't help but wonder in this day and age if there is a way to track classic vehicles based on their VIN prior to the 1981 standardization of VIN numbers. Here's my story... The year was 1993. I was 9 years old. and Dad was either in the double digits for Z ownership or on the verge of cr
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