Mark Maras

I'll bet it was # 14. Cam on top of the valves.

When you get the cooling system repaired, give it a complete (including a valve adj.) tune-up. Tracking down the source of future problems will be a lot easier if you know the basics are good.

I wonder how a 240 bumper would do against a new car that has no bumper. A lot of cars have large plastic panels attached with plastic clips. The crumple zones might mitigate the damage to the other car. Hopefully not a Z.

Excellent. Mechanical repairs are a piece of cake compared to rust treatment. Technically, I suppose, the PO didn't lie. It was a running and driving car. How well did it run until the freeze plug let go?

Use the rubber expansion plug as a temporary fix until you're ready to pull the head. Share some of the gross lies the PO told you. We've heard a lot of them but who knows, maybe there's a new one.

Did you interchange any of the parts (pistons, suction chambers, etc.) from one carb to the other?

If you haven't installed the pilot bushing, bearing, slide it onto the input shaft just to be sure it fits. Same advice for a new clutch disc. VOE.

1964, fifteen years old steel wheels and a slab of plywood. While racing a friend down a hill (no skate parks yet )I caught a rock doing around 20 MPH and slid and slid and slid. Ah, the memories of road rash and worse.

A little side to side is normal. The pilot bushing, bearing in the end of the crankshaft aligns the input shaft.

Rev the engine to above 2000 RPMs and check the voltage again. It should rise to 14 + volts.

Sacrilegious!

If anyone is interested in this Z, I can take a look at it. It's in my side of Portland about 10 mins. away.

1973 Datsun 280ZX! Well, at least they got the first half of the description right.

Since the car has been sitting, plugs out, for some years and you've used Acetone to break it loose, it would be a good idea to squirt a little Marvel Mystery Oil (or equivalent) into the cylinders, turn the engine over using the starter (plugs out and valve cover off) until you verify good oil pressure and the cam is being oiled.

Found a pic of one at datsun1200.com/bridgestone The only description on the pic is Texas.

You may want to consider eliminating the manifold heater if the parts are unobtainium. The earlier 240s didn't have it and I drove a 71 daily, summer and winter, for a couple of decades, I doubt that you need it. Many later 240 owners have eliminated it on the theory that it may add to fuel percolation, heat soak or vapor lock problem.

I'm going to go the other direction and suggest that it may be running rich at idle. Is it possible it's as simple as a stuck nozzle or choke out of adjustment?

My 71, #08750, had the seven blade metal fan.

Are any of the missing bolts laying in the bottom of the door?

Words of wisdom from Matsuo San.

I was talking about welding. I have little to no experience with brazing but it would have been my Dad's first choice for this repair.

I agree with ZH. Probably carbon and residual unburned fuel that is causing the run on. It could be a rich mixture (carbon in the cyls.) that is the root of this problem. What do the plugs (color) look like? I can't see why DCOEs would be any different than SUs if both are properly tuned.

I haven't used Time-serts in the past but I have used Keen-sert inserts. They're made for high strength joints in low strength materials, like aluminum transmission housings.

It will work just fine. Ford Model A's (and others) had a lever on either side of the steering wheel. One for ignition timing, the other was a throttle. Are you going to mount it next to the choke?

I'd try driving it if looks roadworthy and it's been driven recently. A shop manual, basic tool kit, mechanics wire, and duck tape should get you back to Sacto.