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Arne last won the day on March 25 2016

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About Arne

  • Rank
    Retired admin


  • Map Location
    Eugene, Oregon, USA
  • Occupation
    Retired Linux System Administrator

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    Former Owner
  • About my Cars
    Series 2 '71 240Z, HLS30-37705 (Great survivor, now lives in Norway)
    Series 1 '71 240Z, HLS30-12746 (parted and gone)
    Series 2 '71 240Z, HLS30-27602 (parted and crushed)
    My parts cars and other spares supplied parts for 91 S30s in 9 countries on 3 continents

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  1. Ahh. No, I don't think I've met him. I'm pretty much a street driver these days.
  2. I suspect Don was prior to my Z time. I only started in 2005.
  3. Yup, I still pop by now and then, especially when @Mike pings me! I read this whole thread, and being the car guy that I am, I could probably drive all of the cars mentioned here. As noted, I sold my '71 240Z to make the move into a Porsche, but I stayed with the air-cooled variety - an '84 911 Carrera 3.2 in my case. Being active in the PCA now, I've driven several newer Porsches, and agree that IMS bearings not withstanding, the 996 cars are a great bargain now, if a modern sports car will satisfy your need. For me, they do not. Like an early Z, my Porsche is more direct and involving than a modern car. Incredibly capable, but still a vintage driving experience. That said, I bought mine 5 years ago, before the recent price craziness hit. The current prices for air cooled 911's make the recently rising Z prices look really nice. And they can be expensive to maintain, unless like me you do it all your self. Sadly, classic 911's have left the affordable station, and it looks like 240Zs may be starting a similar trajectory.
  4. Good find, @Mike . I had found the wiring diagrams and re-attached them here, but hadn't found the supporting pictures. I'll pull those over to this doc and insert them as well.
  5. @Mike - I don't know if I still have those images myself. Let me dig around a bit.
  6. For those of us with original fuel pumps on our 240 and 260Zs, those pumps are now at least 35 years old. Obviously, if they haven't yet been replaced, the time of need can't be far away. In most cases, the obvious answer is to simply replace the pump, either with a new mechanical pump or convert to a modern electric pump. But the original pumps were designed to be rebuildable. For those of us with restored or original survivor cars, rebuilding the original pump is one way to retain some of the car's originality. It's also surprisingly affordable. Of course, it's not as easy as it used to be. Many of the parts shown below are no longer available from Nissan. But the critical parts are. The diaphragm and the check valves are the parts that wear, and those are still available, as of February 2009. [B]17053-E3010[/B] - Diaphram - need one - #11 in [B][COLOR="Red"]red[/COLOR][/B] below [B]17065-21016[/B] - Check valves - need two - #7 in [B][COLOR="Blue"]blue[/COLOR][/B] below [B]17099-E3012[/B] - Pump to head gaskets - need two - #17 in [B][COLOR="Yellow"]yellow[/COLOR][/B] below In addition to those parts (which cost me $15 with my club discount), you'll want to have a couple of fuel resistant o-rings on hand to replace the seals shown as #8 above. Those seals were NLA, but my little o-ring selection had an appropriate replacement in it. But bear this in mind if you need to depend on getting this done in one operation - the old seals appear to have been cork, and will not be reusable. The new ones I used were square-cut, 3/4" O.D., 5/8" I.D., 1/16" thick. They worked perfectly. As for the process, it's very simple. I didn't take any pictures, but follow along with the diagram above. Remove the pump from the cylinder head. Then separate the upper and lower body halves (6 screws at the diaphragm seal). Once separated, remove the diaphragm from the lower body. You will need to depress the center of the diaphragm down (against the spring pressure) and then out (away from the cylinder head side) to disconnect it from the cam follower in the lower body half. Once disconnected, remove it carefully so as not to damage the shaft seal (under the spring, not shown above). The replacement diaphragm has a pair of flats on the end of the shaft to ease the installation. Insert it with the flats oriented to the front and rear, push down against the spring while holding the cam follower in the extended position, then turn the diaphragm 90 degrees to engage the shaft into the cam follower. The valves are both in the upper body. Note that one is face up, the other face down. Make note of which is which, because if you get them wrong, the pump will not work. Remove the retaining plate (#9) after removing the two small screws that clamp it down. Using a pair of needle-nose pliers, remove the valves. (I did mine one at a time to make certain not to mix them up.) Most likely part of the cork seal will come with the valve and the rest will remain in the seat. Carefully (don't damage the housing) remove all of the cork remains. Try not to let any fall into the upper cavity. If it gets in there, you'll want to get it back out to keep it from either clogging the pump valve or being pumped into one of the carbs, depending on which side it fell into. If necessary, remove the top cap (5 screws) to get into the cavity, being careful not to damage the rubber gasket under the top cap. Install the new o-ring seals, then the valves. Re-install the retainer and screws. Test the correct valve placement by gently blowing into the inlet pipe, and then attempt to suck back on the inlet. If you got the valve correct, you should not be able to suck back on it, but blowing through should be easy. The outlet pipe should be the opposite. To re-combine the two body halves, first make certain that the screw holes in the diaphragm are pretty much lined up with the holes in the lower body. Operate the cam follower arm to pull the diaphragm down flush, then set the upper body in place and secure it with one of the screws. (A third hand can be handy here. Another option would be to re-install the lower body back on the cylinder head and turning the engine by hand until the diaphragm is pulled down.) Continue with the other 5 screws, don't over-tighten them. Once assembled, operate the cam follower arm a few times, you should be able to hear it pumping air. Clean both sides of the pump spacer (#16) before installing the new gaskets (#17). Bolt it back to the cylinder head, attach the fuel lines and you are done. This will work well as long as the diaphragm and valves are still available. Another option for people bent on originality might be to purchase a brand new Kyosan Denki pump and transfer all its new parts into the original body. A bit more expensive, but perhaps worth it for some people.
  7. Quite well, Marty. I don't want to hijack Terje's thread on this excellent adventure, but I'm back down to a single Porsche again, after dragging home a needy 944 a few months back, which I fixed up to get back on the road and sold. I recently retired, so I have a bit more time to play in the garage now.
  8. Tomo, there is no one supplier for this stuff. The stuff was dealer installed, and just like custom wheels, different dealers used different suppliers. Finding the exact match for what you have on the car will be a bit of a needle/haystack proposition, and that's assuming that your particular style of needle is still in production at all. It's just going to be a matter of searching out the current available sources and see if they match yours. Good luck.
  9. People have been saying that for more than 20 years. The 240Z is a perennial top pick on all the magazine's and analyst's "buy one now while they're still cheap" lists. All sorts of big projections, and the breakthrough never has happened... yet. Maybe it's really going to happen now. The total nuttiness in the early 911 world has been said to be dragging up not just other Porsches, but also other contemporary sports cars, of which the 240Z is the poster child.Then again, I'm not sure that wild appreciation in value would be a good thing. The possibility of early 911 ownership has been wiped out for all but people of substantial means. Even 911T's (pre-74) are commanding $20k or more for total rust buckets. You don't even want to know what it costs to buy a totally rust-consumed pre-74 911S these days. I don't think what we see there is particularly good for the hobby, even if it does mean that my car has increased in value by at least 40% in less than 3 years. Good for me personally, but the hobby as a whole? I don't think so.
  10. Which means it could be either way, depending on whether it is early or late.
  11. If the bezels are NLA, I'd recommend re-keying the ignition to match the doors (as I'm assuming that door locks are still available in matching pairs, possibly a bad assumption). The hatch may have to be different.
  12. Yes. The ignition is the easiest, followed by the doors. Any competent locksmith should be able to do it, I even borrowed a wafer set and did an ignition switch myself. Not hard with the correct parts. I'd recommend leaving the hatch lock as is and keying the others to match it.
  13. Big intakes on the L24 will likely require fly-cutting the block, unless it has already been bored .040" over. Save it for an L28.
  14. I'm not certain that the 3-in1 oil is a true 20. It always seemed thin to me. I used 20 wt. motorcycle fork oil in mine.