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About z8987

  • User Group: Members

  • Member ID: 33541

  • Rank: RiZing Star

  • Content Count: 323

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  • Reputation: 110

  • Achievement Points: 2,170

  • Member Of The Days Won: 2

  • Joined: 02/04/2019

  • Been With Us For: 1237 Days

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z8987 last won the day on January 22

z8987 had the most liked content!


  • Map Location
    Elk Grove, CA
  • Occupation

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned

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  1. What is the coating on the fuel control linkage? Can a powder coating company replace it? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. What am I checking for? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. It looks like my water pump is leaking. I'm getting ready to remove it and figure out what the problem is. I hope my video will allow somebody to affirm or not that it's my water pump? Also, any tricks to remove and replace? I'm sure those bolts have been in there for years, and probably need to be finessed? Any tips are welcome? IMG_7903.MOV
  4. Great points, thank you. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. What about a buffer, something like this? https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-buffer-61557.html Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. What's the best way to clean this up. I'm not sure that I want it to shine, unless that's the only choice.
  7. That's what I thought. Thank you.
  8. Which of these is correct for a 70 series 1? I put the silver one on the more complete car. black.heic silver.heic
  9. All my brake problems are fixed. I'm not sure what happened to the rear wheel that was locking up. After I freed it with a screw driver and removing the wheel, there were no more problems with that. I don't know if it got stuck when I used the e-brake, or something else, but after freeing it, all the problems went away. I attached two videos. PreFix.mov, this one I jacked up the front of the car and spun the tire, the brakes rubbed a little, this was prior to making changes to the master cylinder. After reconfiguring my master cylinder with the larger reservoir servicing the front I jacked it up and did the same thing and the brakes weren't rubbing. The second test was done after bleeding the brakes and driving the car for about 80 miles. A great day driving around. Just sharing, my results. postfix.movPreFix.mov
  10. I put about 80 miles on the new Z today. New to me, of course. What a blast. This is the best therapy there is.
  11. I only use wilwood because of their reputation with brakes. If I could contact the engineer that made the m/c for these cars, that would be better. I bet there are docs somewhere that discuss that m/c design. I'm just looking for data to help me make a decision. I'm there now.
  12. Did you read the wilwood data sheet above? Page 2 is pretty clear. My other z i removed the m/c and turned it around 180 degrees, then I connected the lines and slowly turned it back around and plugged it back into the booster. Tonight I did the new z a different way. I loosened the m/c and removed both lines and reversed them. I had to spend some time on it getting them bent correctly and it’s a much better fit. Another thing, before I disconnected my front brakes from the m/c, I jacked it up and I spun the tire, the brakes were rubbing. When I disconnected the m/c to the front brakes the brakes quit rubbing. Tomorrow I’ll bleed the brakes and see if the front brakes are still rubbing. Another thing with the left rear drum, I pressurized the system to 15 psi, and turned the bleeder and I got fluid out of it. I’m a little confused about this, but I’ll dig back into it when I get my brakes bled. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  13. This is the image of the M/C sold on ZcarDepot . I contacted wilwood technical support to see what they have to say about master cylinders and disc/drum brakes. His response was absolutely, f/r makes a difference. Page two of the master cylinder data sheet ds439.pdf explains the residual pressure valve and how it's necessary for the rear brakes and not for the front brakes. I'm sold. I think I'll go with the Wilwood explanation. ds439.pdf
  14. I’m sorry I’ve tied two issues to one thread. I tried what you suggested and there was no change. That was the first thing I did. I don’t think the m/c issue has anything to do with the brake locking up. I just came across it during my troubleshooting and brought it up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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