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z8987

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About z8987

  • Rank
    Active Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Map Location
    Elk Grove, CA
  • Occupation
    Retired

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  • Zcars Owned
    240z

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  1. Got tires at the local shop. Good to go.
  2. What about these? https://www.ebay.com/p/1-195-70r14-Advantage-T-a-BFGoodrich-90-T-R70-R14/1417838836?iid=283248972325&chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=283248972325&targetid=596465943508&device=t&mktype=pla&googleloc=1013763&poi=&campaignid=6470636544&mkgroupid=83197474208&rlsatarget=aud-622524041278:pla-596465943508&abcId=1140476&merchantid=131376082&gclid=Cj0KCQjw2efrBRD3ARIsAEnt0egc9vY_EMWB_1s8YFPTFP1bqZvJkjAF4Trczn_P_jhzIHGPUtPQaaoaApkREALw_wcB
  3. I’m sorry if this is redundant. The sporting clay shooting season got in the way of me working on the car. I’m still having some problems with the brakes, but I have a plan for that. The tires are in pretty bad shape. After sitting for 15 years all the tires have flat spots on them. I can’t get up to speed at all. The brakes work but I won’t take the car out of my neighborhood. I’m looking for some tires that will fit the stock rims. They don’t need to be great tires, as I think I will buy new rims in the future. For now I’m not sure where I’m going with the car, but I need tires. Can somebody give me an idea of a good tire that will fit my needs.
  4. Is there any advantage in leaving it all original?
  5. All the wheels are the same as this one. The tires are shot and need to be replaced. I drove the car the other day, and after sitting for 15 years the tires have flat spots. I'm looking to restore these wheels and put new tires on. Should I just have the wheels powder coated? I'm not going to do anything until I'm sure of what's the best thing to do. What about the hub caps, they also need some work?
  6. I'm still working on my brakes, can carburetors. The car seems to be running pretty good, it takes some time to warm up, but once it's warm all seems to be well. I live in a neighborhood that is pretty confined, so I went around the block today. The brakes will stop the car, but they need some work. I noticed the car ran like it had square tires, possibly the results of sitting for 15 years. I need to put new tires on it, and I'm thinking about restoring the wheels. What's the best way to restore the wheels? Thank you.
  7. I'm willing to go that far. When ever I buy a new gun, I always dismantle it and clean it. I've found something in just about every gun, with the exception of an H&K pistol. Those Germans
  8. Checked that. sounds like you were not the first to do that
  9. I'm going back to blocking off the front as suggested, and I'll check on the lip. I don't think there is one, but I'll look. I'll be out shooting all day. This retirement is wearing me out. 🙂
  10. Yes, new rubber hoses. My guess is they are not bulging. That's something I can check, but since they are new, they should be in good shape.
  11. Brakes. New booster, in place with master cylinder. All new calipers, brakes everything new with the exception of the old hard lines. The old hard lines were blown out and cleaned of all fluid before installing all the new products. I spoke with Steve at Power Brake Booster Exchange about my booster. According to him my booster needs no further adjustments. We bled the lines today, but the pedal still goes almost all the way to the floor. Here's what I've done. - I capped the master cylinder and the brake pedal is hard to push on and will not go to the floor - so my guess is that the booster and master cylinder are good. - connected front brakes to master cylinder, brake feels good, - connected back brakes, we bled the brakes, a solid flow of fluids but the brake will now go almost all the way to the floor. Any tricks? One person suggested I open the bleeders and let gravity assist in getting fluids through the system. Sound reasonable, but we have a steady flow at both back brakes. errrrr..
  12. I have not had the opportunity to try this yet. Focus is brakes today
  13. I got the oil pan on the car. Lowered it, and removed the valve cover. All the lash pads are in place. This must have been a remnant of a past problem. I'm still having some troubles with the carbs. I'll be checking in on some of the suggestions above. It's doesn't seem to be making much difference when making adjustments. I've been using a vacuum synchronization gauge. The gauge will hardly move when making adjustments. Again, I'll start over with the recommendations above.
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